[jeromebinh]

Thanks for the set up for the on road. I placed 6th in my main, they had a jump and they banged like ****. I had 2nd for the longest time but they ran into me on the jump with 5 minutes left then on the straight away one jumped from the other lane head on into my car. I am surprised that nothing broke and I didn't have a single flame out even with the massive hits. The one that hit me head on lost his shock tower on the hit, after the race I checked mine and nothing was bent and my a-arms still had no slop in them. I also noticed that X-Ray XB9 copied the Losi front and rear suspension and diffs. the only difference is they use a thicker plastic rod ends. Thanks again, I will try to get some videos up once we get them off the camera.

[Mac]

Awesome!!!!

[jeromebinh]

I set my car back up for off road today, and I am trying the 12 degree fronts, also I have the servo saver that is aluminum. I am still running all plastic in the rear and the gen III radio tray. Before I upgraded the fronts and the servo saver it was flying good and landing good as well, but now it seems nose heavy, I checked my brake drag and my throttle servo also went out today. Do you think it was nose diving because of a bad servo? Or do you think the added aluminum up front is making it do that on jumps? Are you running the rubber grommets on the gen III radio tray or not like in the photo for the instructions? The servos are pretty new with maybe 4 hours on them with the original radio tray and about 2 hours with the new radio tray and they were the 20 kilo orion's what would be a good high voltage replacement, this is the second Orion servo that has went out, I am running the Futaba 352 on my truggy but it is not high voltage and I have the Ko Propo ex-10 eurus remote. Debating on Ko propo or Futaba high voltage what's your two cents?

[Mac]

I run the 10 degrees and 12 are for very, very big open sweeping tracks.

The added parts you mentioned would not cause the car to be nose heavy. The only thing I can think of is the gen 3 has moved weigh forward. However if your ride heights are correct I cant see that beeing a big problem. We are just getting to run outside here in Canada and I have not run my buggy with the Gen 3 yet and have not changed my truggy to it yet so I don't want to comment till I have real experience. Will be very soon though.

I can not comment on the servos as I run JR and Spektrum.

[jeromebinh]

So for Vietnam the 12 degree are basically useless for me since the tracks are so short with limited straightaways. I know the servos added weight to the front but when I had it running without the new parts on the front it was flying correctly and I know the ride height is correct. My brakes were hanging a bit but I backed them off and it still did it a bit. Maybe the servo was going out, not for sure. I understand the contract obligations of team drivers so no worries on the servo info I guess I will put the stock plastics back on the front and see where that takes me, if it keeps doing it with a new servo I will just put everything up front back to stock and check the height again. Worse case scenerio I will just add some weight to the rear maybe an aluminum rear brace or rear hubs. Thanks agian and the forum looks great

[Mac]

12 degrees - I would not say useless as one of my team mates runs them everywhere so keep them as a tuning aid!

Contract obligations would not stop me from helping you with the servos, I was just being honest when I said I have never used them so I am not sure and do not want to advise when I do not know.

You do not want to have to add weight. In fact first thing I would do is run the Gen 3 and then the stock tray back to back and see which works better for you. Very possible this is something that works better on one track vs another.

Thank you for checking out my site - don't be a stranger!

[jeromebinh]

How long are your servos lasting? This will be the second throttle servo that has gone out. I upgraded the tray to get away from servo failure but the Orion I ran was on the older tray for quite a while before the upgrade. It didn't nose dive before I put the new parts on but I had the parts on during the on road race and only took one decent hit in the front, I got pushed into the jump but nothing is bent, all the a-arms have the same gap on the toe pins. Do you think it is a possibility that the servo was going bad engaging the brake at times? The radio tray is spot on with the alignment marks and I used calipers on the lengths. I also noticed that sometimes (not very often) it wouldn't nose dive. I even checked my wing and it looks good so as I said I am at a bit of a loss with the only things I can think of was the upgraded parts or the servo going bad causing it.

I am not that worried about the price of the servo's on my NT1 I run the Ko Propo rsx servos and love them but on road doesn't take the jumps and bumps, just not sure about the abuse of off road, I want something that will last and preferably lipo compatable.

[Mac]

Honestly I got new servos last year JR and I am still running the exact same servos.

I built a new car with some Spektrums to give those a shot as well.

End Points - End Points - End Points

When i help guys at the track this is the biggest reason I see for servo failure.

I also dremel the top of the servo (so no rough edge for linkage to get caught up on) and I dremel the round things on the bottom that the set screw goes into (so again they can not catch on the servo top)

[jeromebinh]

Yeah I know end points are a b@tch. when I set up my throttle servos I go full throttle and then back off until it releases 2 clicks then I do 3 for the brakes for steering I usually do 3 or 4 depending on the feel of how it turns. I know the Orion servos were always noisy. I ended up getting the hitech 7954sh, it has more torque than the Orion did and it is faster than the Futaba, they are not nearly as fast as my Ko propo but with an advertised 0.06 not much can beat that. I think my speed is a 0.12. I know I am not anywhere near the top of driver lists so I really don't see the difference between some servos that are only .02 or so away in speed, that amount can be made up in driver reaction. I went ahead and ordered some JR servos, the shop ordered the cheap race servos and a few of the higher end servos, what model do you run? Many of the other drivers I have talked to that don't have full sponsorships usually run the same servo both steering and throttle to save on having multiple spares, just kinda curious as to which you run, I am thinking about putting the JR on the losi truggy then putting the new futaba's on my savage