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View Full Version : Losi 350(.21) and 454(.28) Nitro engines


ABURTON
08-20-2009, 06:41 PM
This is the place to learn about the Team Losi 350 and 454 engines! Many of us with Team Losi are using these engines and having great luck with them. If you have any questions regarding the engines please ask here!


So far it has show in testing that the best pipes for the engines are the losi re10 and re11 pipes. I use the re11 on the 350 in buggy and it has a nice smooth feel with plenty of power.

The re10 seems to provide the bottom end power needed in truggy for the 454(.28) engine.

At this point I have ran the engines 100% box stock with great results. There is a turbo button head(conversion) that comes with shims that Losi offers. This should provide more power/runtime and a somewhat smoother running engine.

I will post some videos and part numbers asap. These are great engines even for a serious racer!

AB

Curtis May
08-20-2009, 06:57 PM
Thanks Alan keep us posted...

Dietz
08-20-2009, 07:04 PM
What plug are you using?

Kevin Gahan
08-20-2009, 11:02 PM
What plug are you using?

i am also running the 350 and the 454. The turbo kit that we just came out with is a great up grade. i am running a O.S.P4 plug in both the 350 and the 454.

Dan Ross
08-21-2009, 06:32 AM
how is the runtime with the 454?

Curtis May
08-21-2009, 06:57 AM
Kevin what pipe are you running on the 350?

ABURTON
08-21-2009, 12:18 PM
Kevin uses the re11 i think on the 350, same as what I use. It gives a smooth feel but still great power. The re10 should make it pop more but may not have the top.

I pitted Kevin at the Nationals with his truggy/454 combo and although heats were only 5-6 minutes he had half of a tank and ran I want to say 6 minutes and some change.

I used standard plugs in mine for now and used mc8's. I'll go to the combo Kevin mentioned above soon.

Kevin Wilson
08-21-2009, 01:59 PM
What's up Alan. You going to make the horizon shootout?

JasonBrown
08-24-2009, 05:05 AM
Is the 350 a 3 port? Just wandering i was thinking about geting one to try here in Savannah GA.

Hey Alan are you coming to the Pro Series race in Savannah GA in September?

Kevin Gahan
08-24-2009, 09:24 AM
Yes, i am running the RE11 Pipe.

Kevin Gahan
08-24-2009, 09:25 AM
Yes, the 350 is a 3 port motor.

Signguy Gary
08-25-2009, 07:33 PM
I'm running a modded version of the 350 in my truggy with the RE10 pipe, it's a little soft compaired to a .28 but it's really controllable, and a couple weeks ago when I timed a tank I got 11 min. with it. unbelievable I know but true.

jared52
08-27-2009, 08:52 AM
+1 to the 350 motor. I had Alan set up my 2.0 RTR buggy and he told me out of the box it was going to be a good motor. Anything was a huge step up from the Raze I was driving. A durable car, but having driven an 8 2.0, I had no idea what I was missing. The motor has been great needing little tuning even after a noob mistake I made retightening the flywheel nut (no comments from you Mr. Burton!).

I also just purchased the RE11 pipe and have yet to install it, but with the feedback I have gotten on this pipe, I have little doubt that it's going to make it an even better motor. Thanks for putting out an RTR product with such high quality and affordable prices!

I do have one question, how long will the stock bearings last in the motor? I have almost a gallon through mine now.

YourFatMon.com
08-27-2009, 09:30 AM
I had the 427 and burned about 8 gallons through it. Then gave it to a friend who has put another couple gallons through it. These things run forever if you run them a little fat. James

powerfreak
08-27-2009, 10:05 AM
do you think the 454 would be a good engine in the savage,if it can get the lst xxl around 45-50 then i need one

rclugnut10
08-27-2009, 10:44 AM
do you think the 454 would be a good engine in the savage,if it can get the lst xxl around 45-50 then i need one

if the 454 is anything like the 427 (which is a great savage engine) then yes it'd be great...

the lug

HerrSavage
08-27-2009, 11:16 AM
The 454 is essentially identical to an LRP Spec 3 28 I believe(SH 28 6 ports..), so yes it should rock in a Savage... AWESOME engines.. I'm a huge fan of the Mach/Losi 427 engines.., whether in buggy, truggy, or MT - bashing or racing.. There is a new version with the red or orange head like the 350 and 454, right??

mudboger07
08-27-2009, 07:29 PM
Question for the pros, I installed a RE11 on my sons 2.0 rtr buggy over the weekend and have got it tuned pretty well, The turbo head i ordered is in at the lhs and im wondering how much the tune will change? Will i need to go richer or leaner? I'll also be picking up the RE10 that came in also to try out as we race on both long and short tracks....Well the tune change drasticly from one pipe to the other? Thanks for any info....

jim
08-30-2009, 06:43 AM
What pipe come's on the 8T2.0 rtr? I love the 454 motor, very easy to tune and I have managed to get 81/2 minutes on a tank of fuel.

Kicker
08-31-2009, 05:05 AM
One thing i wonder is why losi didnt release this engine with the turbo plug button with it? One thing that has erked me about this engine is that i needed parts for the carb and everything was back ordered for most of the season. It was a great engine but i had to go with other engines because i couldnt get things like o rings for it. I will be picking up 2 of these engines during the off season just so i dont to go through that again and yes they will both have the turbo plug conversion on them.

Also Losi get this part out there. LOSA99421

HerrSavage
08-31-2009, 11:29 AM
These engines are SH engines, so knowing that, you can also use the SH, LRP, Dynamite, Sportwerks, Mach, Nosram, etc.. parts..

Not %100 sure, but I think a carb from a Mach 427/Sportwerks 26 will also fit on an LRP Spec 3. And thus, the Losi 454..

Not sure about the 350, but I bet it's the same as the LRP Z21 Spec 2, Nosram 21 (not the RR), Dynamite 21, etc...

johnperdeye
09-03-2009, 10:08 AM
What kinda run times are u guys getting with the 350's

JRC RACING
09-03-2009, 10:42 AM
I have a 350 engine in my 8ight RTR 2.0 and when the engine gets hot after driving it is problems starting it again.
When it is cold there are no problem.

What can be the problem.

Neobart
09-03-2009, 11:18 AM
While there's fuel and air going through the carb, it stays cool enough to not boil the fuel. As soon as you shut it off heat is transfered from the engine block to the carb. You will be able to see fuel being pushed away from the carb when it's hot.

Some like to blast the carb with compressed air to cool it down.

Errorhead
09-04-2009, 05:37 AM
I just got a 350, doing the breakin now. What is the horsepower on the 350? I can't find it in any of the paperwork. Just curious.
Thanks

Neobart
09-04-2009, 05:49 AM
They haven't given any HP ratings, wise IMO. They are always much bigger than the actual numbers.

ABURTON
09-04-2009, 07:39 AM
make sure your 350 or 450 is not to hot to start with while running. This will cause you to have issues trying to restart.

Although it does not have a insulator around the carb neck, if tuned properly it will hot start easily.

For instance, at a RC Pro event a few weeks ago I was running the 350 in the pro buggy and truggy class. 45 minute mains, with 30 seconds- to a minute to go in the buggy race I ran out of fuel trying to keep the lead. This happened just as I crossed pit lane and the loop. My guy grabbed me, fueled it, and started it within 10-15 sec of it running out. So after 40 minutes of constant running she started up.

Play with the tune and you can get it;)

Kevin Gahan
09-04-2009, 08:04 AM
I just got a 350, doing the breakin now. What is the horsepower on the 350? I can't find it in any of the paperwork. Just curious.
Thanks

If you would like to get more power and some more run time out of your 350 try putting the turbo conversion kit on it. (LOSR2345) This is what the team has liked so far. They have also liked the Losi RE11 pipe (LOSR8001) This also helped run time and gave it more power from bottom to top. When you get the conversion kit you will notice that it come with the head shims. In the last couple of days we have also found adding one more shim helped the power even more. We have been running the temps around 220.

Neobart
09-04-2009, 08:47 AM
+1 on the pipe. My GRP runs screams like a stuck pick after putting that pipe on. Much better than the Restrictive 3009 pipe from GRP.

Audiobahnaholic
09-05-2009, 11:06 PM
I've got an 8ight 2.0 RTR with the 350 and I am only getting 5-6 mintues per tank. Is this normal? I ran a 15 minute main tonight and had to pit twice where everyone else only had to stop once. This seems very short to me. The engine has great power and runs in the 210-220 range the only issue is the runtime.

ABURTON
09-06-2009, 08:35 AM
with the stock pipe that engine is going to run about 240-260 from what I have seen and get about 8.5 minutes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6FEchOw3qE

This was a stock out of box rtr. Still the engine is going strong today. If you put this pipe on it temps will go down, runtime and power will go up:

http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=14236

hope this helps..

Audiobahnaholic
09-06-2009, 08:59 AM
Alright. So if I get that pipe for it and put the turbo head conversion could I be looking at around 10 minutes of runtime? If so that's what I'm going to do. I love the power just need more runtime.

mustang347
09-07-2009, 10:19 AM
make sure your 350 or 450 is not to hot to start with while running. This will cause you to have issues trying to restart....

....Play with the tune and you can get it;)

Can you help point us in the direction if this is happening? My engine seems to run fine, I get good mpg, good temps, but it still vapor locks. I dont know how to tune it any better to prevent that. It it just a function of the overall temp? Meaning, if its around 220, should it be more like 200 to prevent vapor lock?

Thanks!

Signguy Gary
09-07-2009, 06:55 PM
Does anyone know the p/n for the back plate of the stock LST2 engine? ( I think thats the 454 right? ) I want to take the spin start off and try it in the truggy.

Thanks

ABURTON
09-07-2009, 08:15 PM
Can you help point us in the direction if this is happening? My engine seems to run fine, I get good mpg, good temps, but it still vapor locks. I dont know how to tune it any better to prevent that. It it just a function of the overall temp? Meaning, if its around 220, should it be more like 200 to prevent vapor lock?

Thanks!

you guys give me a call tuesday at 205 601 5578, we can try to get ya fixed up;)

after about 10 am..

Mr.G
09-08-2009, 05:56 AM
Would this work...I want to buy a RTR and RR, buggy and truggy. I want to concentrate on racing truggy's and race the odd buggy race. I was thinking of buying the Buggy RTR and then building the engine and electronics over into the Race Roller truggy. Will the 350 Engine do the trick?

modified
09-08-2009, 06:22 AM
Hello ABURTON.
I'm a newbie with rc cars and was wondering if you could tell me how to get the Losi 8GHT with the 350 engine back to factory settings and how to tune it.

ABURTON
09-08-2009, 07:04 AM
Hello ABURTON.
I'm a newbie with rc cars and was wondering if you could tell me how to get the Losi 8GHT with the 350 engine back to factory settings and how to tune it.

Yes, I posted above for you to call me later today @ 205 601 5578, we can try to get you fixed up.

AB

jim
09-08-2009, 07:43 PM
I have the 8T 2.0 rtr and I order the re11 pipe, I was just wondering what is the diff between the rtr pipe and the re11? Thanks in advance
Jim

Signguy Gary
09-09-2009, 06:19 PM
Mr G. - Yes I run the 350 in my truggy and I really like it. Run a RE10 and put a turbo button on it.

Later

Audiobahnaholic
09-09-2009, 06:32 PM
If In the last couple of days we have also found adding one more shim helped the power even more. We have been running the temps around 220.

So your saying use all the shims in the kit plus another one? If that's what you mean how thick? A thick one or a thin one?

Gilley
09-11-2009, 06:18 PM
Two Q's for ya Burton, I had a plastic throttleend cup and it will not stay attached. Tried to order a dynimite replacement or losi direct replacement and I guess there on the boat from china. Any others I can use that you know of that will work. 2nd is normally with any or all motors do you say as a rule of thumb one head shim for 20% and two for 30% or like a 1mm for 20%,,,,2mm for 30% Thanks in advance.

rc heaven
09-11-2009, 06:46 PM
hey there, just had to say i love the way you use 350 and 454 like the old chevy's
even the small block and big block aspect are the same with both companies.
i think another iconic number that would signify big power would be 502 for a .32 or 572 for something bigger.
there's no replacment for displacement

ABURTON
09-11-2009, 06:59 PM
Two Q's for ya Burton, I had a plastic throttleend cup and it will not stay attached. Tried to order a dynimite replacement or losi direct replacement and I guess there on the boat from china. Any others I can use that you know of that will work. 2nd is normally with any or all motors do you say as a rule of thumb one head shim for 20% and two for 30% or like a 1mm for 20%,,,,2mm for 30% Thanks in advance.

send me a email to alanburton20@gmail.com and I'll stick ya one in the mail, just replace it when they come in;)

I usually take one small copper shim out for 20%, although I rarely ever run 20%.

I'm gonna start testing runtime on these new mills soon. Got some cool stuff to try;;)

RJNicholson
09-13-2009, 05:40 PM
I need a little help with the 350 engine.

I know it has been talked about and there is a replacement part, but I can't find the info on RCTECH.

I had the carb ball link come off today during some practice. When I tried to put it back on the set screw would never hold properly and keep the link attached. Set screw became stripped. I have heard of other people completely breaking this cheap plastic link.

I'm looking for the metal/ALU replacement that fits this carb, so I don't have to worry about the cheap plastic piece coming off from the torque of my 7965.

Thanks for the help in advance.

-Richard

madweazl
09-13-2009, 08:55 PM
I raced the 2.0 (buggy) RTR last night box stock with the exception of servos and tires. It did pretty well, I pitted at 8m 46s in the main; not sure how much fuel was left but I didnt feel it leaning out when I came in. Temps were on the high side, hovering around 260 (270 at the end of the 15m main provided the telemetry was correct; didnt hit it with the temp gun to check but they seemed to be within a few degrees of each other in earlier tests). Top end was adequate but I was wanting some more low end punch coming out of tight corners leading right into jumps (infield area at ARC Raceway). I was using 20% Trinity fuel.

I'll order up the turbo button this week. I saw in the thread that it comes with the requisite shim for 30% and I also noticed one post stating that adding another shim seemed to provide a little more power. So, do I run the OEM shim, the shim that comes with the turbo button, and another shim for a total of .3?

Running the above on 30% and the RE11 pipe, can I expect to pick up anything on the bottom?

RJNicholson
09-13-2009, 10:03 PM
I would use the RE10 if you are looking for bottom with a simple change.

RE11 is a mid-top end pipe.

Without changing the pipe though you could up the spring rate on the clutch. Try silvers on the ALU shoes if needed. I personally run the green/gold combo that is really popular.

If you haven't already in your RTR make sure you are running 4 shoe clutch. The RTR only comes with 2 shoes installed.

Also, don't trust the Telemetry reading for Temp. I have heard mixed reviews of it being on the high end of the temp range. Just tune to the smoke and sound. Use the Temp only as a Guide.

madweazl
09-14-2009, 05:59 AM
I would use the RE10 if you are looking for bottom with a simple change.

RE11 is a mid-top end pipe.

Without changing the pipe though you could up the spring rate on the clutch. Try silvers on the ALU shoes if needed. I personally run the green/gold combo that is really popular.

If you haven't already in your RTR make sure you are running 4 shoe clutch. The RTR only comes with 2 shoes installed.

Also, don't trust the Telemetry reading for Temp. I have heard mixed reviews of it being on the high end of the temp range. Just tune to the smoke and sound. Use the Temp only as a Guide.

I have a temp gun and bounced the telemetry readings off of it earlier in the week, it was usually close. Clutch felt really good but I'll look into the 4 shoe setup.

WingWrecker
09-14-2009, 03:41 PM
Anyone here having issues with the stock carb on the 350?

RJNicholson
09-14-2009, 04:08 PM
Yes with the carb ball link. Need to find one that isn't plastic that fits.

It's weak, and mine stripped the set screw that holds it in place.

madweazl
09-14-2009, 07:38 PM
Mine has been great, EPA/Travel has to be set incorrectly. There just isnt a ton of pressure on this part if the end points are set properly.

RJNicholson
09-14-2009, 10:55 PM
It's not the EPA settings that are killing the weak ball link on the carb. (Not for me anyway) It's chassis flex that killed mine, and when it pulled the set screw stripped on the plastic. I know how to set EPA correctly, and I wasn't on throttle when I landed our local tracks triple when it popped off.

Overall thats a weak design. You don't find you high end race mills using plastic carb ball links. IMO just one more thing now to worry about when you shouldn't have to.

buggyman
09-15-2009, 12:47 AM
Hey guys I switched motors from vspec to the losi 350. The
350 is a good little motor I was having trouble with the vspec
blowing my tires, I put the 350 in my buggy with a t2050 pipe
which seems to be a pretty good combo run times 8:45 to 9:15
I have the turbo head conversion kit and will put it on and compare
run times. Had to replace that plastic carb linkage with a metal one
the plastic on cracked in half. The motor seems to be real good in the
technical part of the track but kinda of lacking long staightaway speed,
but my overall lap times are faster not blowing my tires in the technical
part of the track and I am more consistant.

WingWrecker
09-15-2009, 02:56 AM
Hey guys I switched motors from vspec to the losi 350. Had to replace that plastic carb linkage with a metal one
the plastic on cracked in half.

Which metal one fit?

buggyman
09-15-2009, 04:21 AM
Want to say it was either dynamite or rpm I know
the set screw didn't come with it and the set
screw from the plastic linkage didn't fit the new
metal linkage so if you get one be sure to get a set
screw that will fit it.

ABURTON
09-15-2009, 06:07 AM
hey guys, just curious...

When I have purchased my 350 and 450 engines they all have had metal carb ball. Where are you guys purchasing from and I am curious if possibly this has been older stock?

madweazl
09-15-2009, 06:08 AM
It's not the EPA settings that are killing the weak ball link on the carb. (Not for me anyway) It's chassis flex that killed mine, and when it pulled the set screw stripped on the plastic. I know how to set EPA correctly, and I wasn't on throttle when I landed our local tracks triple when it popped off.

Overall thats a weak design. You don't find you high end race mills using plastic carb ball links. IMO just one more thing now to worry about when you shouldn't have to.

I dont see how it could be chassis flex. I dont have a lot of hours on mine yet; gonna order up the steel part to have in the pit box just in case though.

jared52
09-15-2009, 09:30 AM
Wow, I see you guys getting 8+ min of runtime and this weekend I raced and only got about 6-6:30 on mine. Temps were in the 230-260 range too so I would think leaning it our would better mileage but higher temps, which I didn't want to risk. What am I missing to get better fuel mileage?

madweazl
09-15-2009, 10:06 AM
Wow, I see you guys getting 8+ min of runtime and this weekend I raced and only got about 6-6:30 on mine. Temps were in the 230-260 range too so I would think leaning it our would better mileage but higher temps, which I didn't want to risk. What am I missing to get better fuel mileage?

I noticed while tuning mine that the temps would stay between 210-215 but it would bog. I leaned it out 2 hours and it jumped to 260ish but ran great. Richened it up 1 hour and it had a slight bog again but the temps dropped back down. I couldnt find anything in between temp wise so I just let it cook. It looks like the RE11 pipe helps this issue (lower temps and better power) out based on what I've read.

I came into the pits at 8m 46s in the main for fuel. Pit crew didnt notice how much fuel was left in the tank.

RJNicholson
09-15-2009, 10:22 AM
Chassis flex doesn't come from driving the car more. It happens all the time. When landing a jump when taking a fast corner, over ruts and bumps. The roller chassis is made for this and is made from TFT flex material. The stock chassis can flex, but not a well and can bend a lot easier being its just stamped ALU it's not made to flex a lot like the Roller Chassis.

But any of these variables on the track can cause chassis flex.

I replaced my RTR chassis with a roller chassis, and can defenitly say this is what popped my carb link off.

I have heard the metal replacement one was a dynamite one just not sure which one to get.

Burton - The first RTR's for the 2.0 buggy came with the cheap plastic carb ball. Not sure if they made a running change on the later models, but the 2.0 Truggy RTR with the bigger motor has always come stock with a metal link from what I have been told.

losibob
09-15-2009, 10:38 AM
I noticed while tuning mine that the temps would stay between 210-215 but it would bog. I leaned it out 2 hours and it jumped to 260ish but ran great. Richened it up 1 hour and it had a slight bog again but the temps dropped back down. I couldnt find anything in between temp wise so I just let it cook. It looks like the RE11 pipe helps this issue (lower temps and better power) out based on what I've read.

I came into the pits at 8m 46s in the main for fuel. Pit crew didnt notice how much fuel was left in the tank.

Never tune to temp as it is will not always be the same. Depending on the outside temp. On a hot day your engine may run 260/270 to run right with no bog which will not hurt it. 300 is about the max you can run I have done it my motor ripped at this temp and didnt smell hot or run like it was lean and still has great pinch and iternals look fine. I run Bryons 30% with 9% Oil. I know alot of guys that tune to temp which is dead wrong always make sure it has smoke coming out the exhaust and is between 220 and 300 and as long as it runs fine
you will be ok

madweazl
09-15-2009, 10:48 AM
Chassis flex doesn't come from driving the car more. It happens all the time. When landing a jump when taking a fast corner, over ruts and bumps. The roller chassis is made for this and is made from TFT flex material. The stock chassis can flex, but not a well and can bend a lot easier being its just stamped ALU it's not made to flex a lot like the Roller Chassis.

But any of these variables on the track can cause chassis flex.

I replaced my RTR chassis with a roller chassis, and can defenitly say this is what popped my carb link off.

I have heard the metal replacement one was a dynamite one just not sure which one to get.

Burton - The first RTR's for the 2.0 buggy came with the cheap plastic carb ball. Not sure if they made a running change on the later models, but the 2.0 Truggy RTR with the bigger motor has always come stock with a metal link from what I have been told.

I wasnt implying the flex happened over time. My point was that I dont have many hours on the car so maybe the link will pop off in the future. How is the flex causing the problem though (there isnt that much and the stock radio tray has a lot of give)? One direction there is no stress on the linkage at all. I'm betting the set screws are being over tightened at the factory or by the owners since once it's set, there shouldnt be any stress on the threads. Or is this a different issue?

Audiobahnaholic
09-15-2009, 11:31 AM
Wow, I see you guys getting 8+ min of runtime and this weekend I raced and only got about 6-6:30 on mine. Temps were in the 230-260 range too so I would think leaning it our would better mileage but higher temps, which I didn't want to risk. What am I missing to get better fuel mileage?

I had the same issue with my RTR. What I did was bought the RE11 pipe, Turbo head conversion as well as a set of composite clutch shoes and new springs. The RTR comes with 2 aluminum shoes on the 4 shoe clutch. I switched to the popular 2 aluminum 2 composite setup. All this together should increase my run time drastically. I haven't got to run it yet but I am going racing Saturday so I will give you an update then.

jared52
09-15-2009, 12:29 PM
Yeah, I have 4 shoes on now, I'm just looking to understand how to tune to fuel mileage.

buggyman
09-15-2009, 12:41 PM
The one I got came from new rtr

buggyman
09-15-2009, 01:11 PM
hey guys, just curious...

When I have purchased my 350 and 450 engines they all have had metal carb ball. Where are you guys purchasing from and I am curious if possibly this has been older stock?

Sorry kinda of new to this forum posting but my motor came from a new rtr car
but put ona race roller chassis. The above link
makes since because I do know of people running rtr chassis on track and they are not having
the issue of cracking the linkage so maybe the additional flex from the race roller is causing this.

jared52
09-15-2009, 01:13 PM
I am pretty sure the RTR I got in July has a metal carb ball.

madweazl
09-15-2009, 01:32 PM
I am pretty sure the RTR I got in July has a metal carb ball.

Ordered mine from A-main last week and it was plastic (RTR buggy). I imagine they have a pretty high turn over rate.

Errorhead
09-17-2009, 11:49 AM
How much more HP does the turbo kit give you? appr.?

Audiobahnaholic
09-17-2009, 12:17 PM
This game is not about horsepower.

WingWrecker
09-17-2009, 03:10 PM
Is it cool to install the turbo button after breakin or should it be broken in with it installed?

madweazl
09-17-2009, 07:40 PM
Is it cool to install the turbo button after breakin or should it be broken in with it installed?

You can do it after break in no problem (the only way I would do it).

habbi14
09-17-2009, 09:23 PM
I got the rtr truggy kit. I broke the engine in with just letting run threw a couple tanks messing with the calibration. Then went and ran it around the track not opening it up just watching the temp. Now it seems like the engine just stalled on me and the piston gets hung up and wont turn over. What could of caused this? Does losi have a warranty on their motors.

madweazl
09-18-2009, 05:33 AM
I got the rtr truggy kit. I broke the engine in with just letting run threw a couple tanks messing with the calibration. Then went and ran it around the track not opening it up just watching the temp. Now it seems like the engine just stalled on me and the piston gets hung up and wont turn over. What could of caused this? Does losi have a warranty on their motors.

The piston and sleeve are very tight (referred to as "pinch") with new engines, this is probably the hang up you're feeling. Rotate the flywheel by hand to a loose spot and restart the motor.

RJNicholson
09-18-2009, 09:41 AM
Thats a good ole 2 stroke engine getting stuck at TDC up for ya. Tons of pinch like mad said in the post above.

My Picco did this almost for the first gallon, it was such a pain in the ***. Now I have the OFNA Truggy Box with 2 775 motors in it. Haven't had one engine get stuck at TDC since.

The motor is perfectly fine. Just pop the motor out and turn by hand or you can put a towel on the flywheel and use a flat head to push the flywheel back to release the piston. I did this until I got a quick change mount.

Only thing that sucks about the RTR is the mount isn't a quick change mount, so you will have to reset gear mesh if you pull the motor and fix the issue by hand.

Audiobahnaholic
09-18-2009, 10:40 AM
I just put the RE11 pipe, turbo head conversion, and 2 aluminum shoes and 2 composite shoes on my buggy and that thing is like driving a completely different buggy. I never dreamed that those little changes would wake the 350 up as much as it did. I was very impressed. Anyone thinking about doing this DO IT. Also, got Race roller shock towers put on and wow the weight savings is huge they are like half the weight of the RTR parts.

RJNicholson
09-18-2009, 11:06 AM
Clutch set up on the Buggy is a huge make or brake your ride. I bet it gave you that bottom end grunt you were looking for..

Audiobahnaholic
09-18-2009, 11:08 AM
I don't know for sure which part did it but I went from the stock RTR setup being like a light switch either you were on the throttle wide open or not, to this new setup I've got I am barely on it at all and have the same power.

WingWrecker
09-18-2009, 05:43 PM
I just put the RE11 pipe, turbo head conversion, and 2 aluminum shoes and 2 composite shoes on my buggy and that thing is like driving a completely different buggy. I never dreamed that those little changes would wake the 350 up as much as it did. I was very impressed. Anyone thinking about doing this DO IT. Also, got Race roller shock towers put on and wow the weight savings is huge they are like half the weight of the RTR parts.

Good to know. I have been contemplating ordering the turbo conversion and the pipe and am going to do it this weekend.

Audiobahnaholic
09-18-2009, 06:07 PM
Good to know. I have been contemplating ordering the turbo conversion and the pipe and am going to do it this weekend.

Make sure you've got the 4 shoe clutch setup as well. Otherwise that extra power won't make as much of a difference if you are slipping the clutch

WingWrecker
09-18-2009, 06:29 PM
Make sure you've got the 4 shoe clutch setup as well. Otherwise that extra power won't make as much of a difference if you are slipping the clutch

Did you notice if your temps went down as well?

Audiobahnaholic
09-18-2009, 06:30 PM
After tuning it to peak, my radio said about 249 and my actual temp gun said 222-230

WingWrecker
09-18-2009, 06:32 PM
After tuning it to peak, my radio said about 249 and my actual temp gun said 222-230

But was that down from your average, prior to the head and pipe change?

Audiobahnaholic
09-18-2009, 06:33 PM
Before changing everything I was running it right around 259-265 on my radio. So it's down probably 10 degrees overall.

WingWrecker
09-18-2009, 06:41 PM
Sweet. Thanks for the info.

losiracer
09-18-2009, 07:21 PM
can i get some links to the parts you guys are talking about thanks :):):):)

Audiobahnaholic
09-18-2009, 07:25 PM
can i get some links to the parts you guys are talking about thanks :):):):)

If you have the RTR version I purchased:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310163264736&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310164575541&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310166644513&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380156688048&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230369036143&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370214725604&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

That's the cheapest I could find it all. These are the actual places I got my items and everything is legit. On the Turbo head conversion I run all 3 shims.

WingWrecker
09-18-2009, 07:29 PM
can i get some links to the parts you guys are talking about thanks :):):):)

Turbo Head Conversion (http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSR2345)

RE11 Pipe (http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSR8001)

Composite Cutch Shoes (http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA9107)

losiracer
09-18-2009, 07:29 PM
Oh you guys are talking about the truggy( 8ight 8 t ) i have the buggy my bad sorry new to this nitro world.....

WingWrecker
09-18-2009, 07:35 PM
Oh you guys are talking about the truggy( 8ight 8 t ) i have the buggy my bad sorry new to this nitro world.....

No, I am talking about the buggy. The turbo conversion, pipe and 4 shoe clutch all apply here.

losiracer
09-18-2009, 07:38 PM
No, I am talking about the buggy. The turbo conversion, pipe and 4 shoe clutch all apply here.

ok thanks so much so not to much money i hope this makes a big change to my motor the stock one seams a bit slugish but then again my electric lipo cars are pushing 70+ mph

Audiobahnaholic
09-18-2009, 08:48 PM
Yes I have the buggy as well. All the stuff listed is what you need.

buggyman
09-19-2009, 06:35 AM
I put the kit in yesterday ran it in the street with street tires
and I can tell a difference. Alot more power. We were suppose to had club race
today rain out. I will compare run times and let ya know the difference

madweazl
09-22-2009, 05:56 PM
I installed the button, pipe, 2x composite and 2x lightened aluminum shoes yesterday. Are you guys running 20 or 30%? I switched to 30 and used 2 .2mm shims and 1 .1mm shim; what are you guys running?

WingWrecker
09-22-2009, 08:32 PM
My pipe and button will be here friday. My shoes and springs are on the way but without the pins which evidently were on backorder which sucks my balls. Oh well I'll get to play on the pipe and button for a bit and then see how much of a difference the clutch makes.

I'm running 30% Odonell without any extra shims which is what everyone else at my elevation is doing. Less power up here so no detonation on 30%.

madweazl
09-22-2009, 09:00 PM
I'm at roughly sea level.

losiracer
09-22-2009, 10:24 PM
Make sure you've got the 4 shoe clutch setup as well. Otherwise that extra power won't make as much of a difference if you are slipping the clutch

4 shoe? is there a link to this set up please

madweazl
09-23-2009, 08:01 AM
4 shoe? is there a link to this set up please

The RTR comes with a 4 shoe flywheel with 2 aluminum shoes installed. Most people recommend 2 aluminum shoes and 2 composite shoes. To convert to 4 shoe, you need to buy a set of clutch pins, springs of your choosing (usually green and gold), and the shoes.

dnebout
09-23-2009, 09:25 AM
My Losi 8ight T 2.0 RTR came with the 454. I have 4 aluminum shoes that came with mine. Didn't you all get the same set up?

madweazl
09-23-2009, 02:48 PM
I have the buggy, perhaps all the trucks come with 4 shoes.

losiracer
09-23-2009, 06:28 PM
The RTR comes with a 4 shoe flywheel with 2 aluminum shoes installed. Most people recommend 2 aluminum shoes and 2 composite shoes. To convert to 4 shoe, you need to buy a set of clutch pins, springs of your choosing (usually green and gold), and the shoes.

can i use all composite shoes or half and half i have 4 composite and the gold and green springs waiting for the pins to come in....

now i have installed the re11 pipe and the head convertion but now it wont start at all dose othere pepole have this same problem. ( do i use one or two shims) i got 3 with my head converstion. two big one small.....

madweazl
09-23-2009, 07:08 PM
can i use all composite shoes or half and half i have 4 composite and the gold and green springs waiting for the pins to come in....

now i have installed the re11 pipe and the head convertion but now it wont start at all dose othere pepole have this same problem. ( do i use one or two shims) i got 3 with my head converstion. two big one small.....

I installed 2 lightened aluminum shoes with gold springs and 2 composites with green springs. They feel pretty good so far.

This evening I pulled the head button to take a peak at what may be happening in there and noticed some glazing on the head. There was no pitting but it definitely got toasty in there. I decided to add one more .1mm shim (total of .6 now; 2 .2mm and 1 .1mm that came with the head conversion plus a .1mm that I'd ordered). It is running pretty good now (guessing 95% power at this point), idles great (and forever), and temps dropped to 235 at the highest point (30% nitrotane). I'm running at about 200' above sea level at 80-100 degrees ambient air temperature.

losiracer
09-23-2009, 07:58 PM
i have to hold it at half throttel to get it to even fire off wont ideal or anything will rev but if i go below half throttel it will die well 1/4 to 1/2 in that area. i have no clue wats going on it was running grate befor i pulled the butten off all thou the sleave in side the engean did come off the piston but i just realined it and pushed it back over the pistion. any help would be grate here. " the re11 pipe sounds grate and full gun thou lol"

Audiobahnaholic
09-23-2009, 07:59 PM
Possibly an air leak. try adjusting your idle.

losiracer
09-23-2009, 08:13 PM
The RTR comes with a 4 shoe flywheel with 2 aluminum shoes installed. Most people recommend 2 aluminum shoes and 2 composite shoes. To convert to 4 shoe, you need to buy a set of clutch pins, springs of your choosing (usually green and gold), and the shoes.

so all i would need is the 2 composite shoes and pins then being this is a new car the alum in it should be good right.

madweazl
09-23-2009, 08:40 PM
i have to hold it at half throttel to get it to even fire off wont ideal or anything will rev but if i go below half throttel it will die well 1/4 to 1/2 in that area. i have no clue wats going on it was running grate befor i pulled the butten off all thou the sleave in side the engean did come off the piston but i just realined it and pushed it back over the pistion. any help would be grate here. " the re11 pipe sounds grate and full gun thou lol"

I had to lean my low end quite a bit. Dont mess with the idle, lean the low side needle two hours at a time until it will idle and then move over to the high side needle. Get that dialed in and then go back and fine tune the low side needle. Mine will idle an entire tank without loading up. Mine fired right up after the install but did need tuning to get running well. I'd start will all 3 shims in the turbo conversion. Are you running 20 or 30%?

losiracer
09-23-2009, 09:42 PM
20% nitro is what i am running

Audiobahnaholic
09-23-2009, 09:48 PM
I installed 2 lightened aluminum shoes with gold springs and 2 composites with green springs. They feel pretty good so far.

This evening I pulled the head button to take a peak at what may be happening in there and noticed some glazing on the head. There was no pitting but it definitely got toasty in there. I decided to add one more .1mm shim (total of .6 now; 2 .2mm and 1 .1mm that came with the head conversion plus a .1mm that I'd ordered). It is running pretty good now (guessing 95% power at this point), idles great (and forever), and temps dropped to 235 at the highest point (30% nitrotane). I'm running at about 200' above sea level at 80-100 degrees ambient air temperature.

That right there looks very dark. Maybe it's fine. Mine is a more golden color. I am running 30% byrons but had problems with it fouling glow plugs when you kill it. I can run the standard head without issues but the Turbo head fouled plugs when I switched from Sidewinder 20% to Byron 30%. I am going to try it again with 3 .2 shims. I don't know why it's doing it.

losiracer
09-23-2009, 09:53 PM
I installed 2 lightened aluminum shoes with gold springs and 2 composites with green springs. They feel pretty good so far.

This evening I pulled the head button to take a peak at what may be happening in there and noticed some glazing on the head. There was no pitting but it definitely got toasty in there. I decided to add one more .1mm shim (total of .6 now; 2 .2mm and 1 .1mm that came with the head conversion plus a .1mm that I'd ordered). It is running pretty good now (guessing 95% power at this point), idles great (and forever), and temps dropped to 235 at the highest point (30% nitrotane). I'm running at about 200' above sea level at 80-100 degrees ambient air temperature.

buy the looks of it in my eyes its running too lean becuase of the charing to the center close to the glow plug not too much thou maybe only 30 mins or so

madweazl
09-23-2009, 10:09 PM
I'll pull the head again in the morning to see if it looks any different with the extra shim.

madweazl
09-24-2009, 08:27 AM
Pulled the head this morning and it looks much better. The glazing is coming off; the top of the combustion chamber looks perfect now and there is a distinct ring where you can see the glazing coming off. I'll clean it up by hand and reinstall.

.6mm of shim looks to be just right for me. Going to drop the 6mm venturi in there today for some testing.

Audiobahnaholic
09-24-2009, 09:39 AM
That looks better. Still looks a little on the leaner side to me.

jared52
09-24-2009, 12:18 PM
Alan,

When you were running the 350 in your buggy, what plugs did you run?

madweazl
09-24-2009, 01:42 PM
I think it's all good now :)

jared52
09-24-2009, 01:47 PM
Pulled the head this morning and it looks much better. The glazing is coming off; the top of the combustion chamber looks perfect now and there is a distinct ring where you can see the glazing coming off. I'll clean it up by hand and reinstall.

.6mm of shim looks to be just right for me. Going to drop the 6mm venturi in there today for some testing.

Pardon my ignorance, but is a venturi the same as a carb restrictor? What do the shims do for the turbo button head?

madweazl
09-24-2009, 01:56 PM
Pardon my ignorance, but is a venturi the same as a carb restrictor? What do the shims do for the turbo button head?

I've seen both terms, I always called them restrictors but I see a lot of people using venturi now.

The head shims were used to lower the compression ratio by increasing the volume in the combustion chamber. This was done because I moved to 30% nitro; if the compression remained the same it would be more susceptible to detonation.

jared52
09-24-2009, 02:01 PM
I've seen both terms, I always called them restrictors but I see a lot of people using venturi now.

The head shims were used to lower the compression ratio by increasing the volume in the combustion chamber. This was done because I moved to 30% nitro; if the compression remained the same it would be more susceptible to detonation.

When I see the word venturi, I go straight to Ace Ventura. Messed up, I know.

And you want less detonation because... ? :)

Audiobahnaholic
09-24-2009, 02:27 PM
I think it's all good now :)

That looks way better. Did you richen it up?

WingWrecker
09-24-2009, 02:32 PM
And you want less detonation because... ? :)

The term 'detonation' describes a situation where the fuel in the chamber is combusting before the piston reaches top dead center in it's stroke. A very bad thing for your engine.

jared52
09-24-2009, 02:33 PM
The term 'detonation' describes a situation where the fuel in the chamber is combusting before the piston reaches top dead center in it's stroke. A very bad thing for your engine.

Oh, I can see where that would be a problem!

esims26
09-24-2009, 04:25 PM
i am switching to 30 % nitro in my 454 engine, the engine has about 1 gallon of 20, so when i switch do i ritchen it up some or lean it some, i know it will run cooler and better from 30 just not sure all the details from switching.

madweazl
09-24-2009, 04:59 PM
That looks way better. Did you richen it up?

Added the shim, leaned about 2 hours on the bottom and fatter on the top buy 30 mins to an hour. Runs pretty good and topped out at 241 after some long WOT runs. We'll see how the mileage is next weekend.

i am switching to 30 % nitro in my 454 engine, the engine has about 1 gallon of 20, so when i switch do i ritchen it up some or lean it some, i know it will run cooler and better from 30 just not sure all the details from switching.

You'll need to add at least one .1mm shim to drop the compression. The mixture will be pretty close to the same.

WingWrecker
09-24-2009, 04:59 PM
i am switching to 30 % nitro in my 454 engine, the engine has about 1 gallon of 20, so when i switch do i ritchen it up some or lean it some, i know it will run cooler and better from 30 just not sure all the details from switching.

Depending on your elevation you may want to add a shim or two to prevent detonation. Here in Denver it is not needed.

Audiobahnaholic
09-24-2009, 05:01 PM
Added the shim, leaned about 2 hours on the bottom and fatter on the top buy 30 mins to an hour. Runs pretty good and topped out at 241 after some long WOT runs. We'll see how the mileage is next weekend.



You'll need to add at least one .1mm shim to drop the compression. The mixture will be pretty close to the same.

So you are running .6 worth of shims? I'm going to try that

madweazl
09-24-2009, 06:09 PM
So you are running .6 worth of shims? I'm going to try that

Yep, .6mm is working well so far.

bjames
09-25-2009, 01:13 PM
I was going to pick up a 350 this weekend. Should I just go ahead and order the turbo head and start with that from break in? Also, I have a Jammin jp3 pipe already, would that work ok with this motor? Thanks

Clamber
09-25-2009, 01:45 PM
Is it ok to run 30% in the 350?

Also, how should I break it in?

madweazl
09-25-2009, 02:16 PM
Is it ok to run 30% in the 350?

Also, how should I break it in?

If you want to run 30% you'll have to install a head shim to lower the compression. A .1mm shim should be enough but you may want to pick up 2 just in case.

madweazl
09-25-2009, 02:23 PM
I was going to pick up a 350 this weekend. Should I just go ahead and order the turbo head and start with that from break in? Also, I have a Jammin jp3 pipe already, would that work ok with this motor? Thanks

I havent had the car back on the track since I installed the head so I'm not sure how much of a difference it's making. I've never used one of the Jammin pipes so I couldnt tell ya and since the JP-3 has no EFRA # I wouldnt have anything to base it off of. Only one way to find out :)

Clamber
09-25-2009, 02:33 PM
Crap, so I cant run it until I get that?

madweazl
09-25-2009, 02:39 PM
Crap, so I cant run it until I get that?


If you're going to run 30%, yes. You put 20% through it right now and be good to go.

Audiobahnaholic
09-25-2009, 02:58 PM
I was going to pick up a 350 this weekend. Should I just go ahead and order the turbo head and start with that from break in? Also, I have a Jammin jp3 pipe already, would that work ok with this motor? Thanks

No it won't hurt to run the turbo head during break in make sure you seal the engine and from what I have seen on the track the JP3 tends to do very well on most every engine. I have seen them on O.S engines, HPI engines, LRP engines. I haven't seen one on a 350 yet but it should run pretty good.

WingWrecker
09-25-2009, 04:35 PM
Also, I have a Jammin jp3 pipe already, would that work ok with this motor? Thanks

Just about any .21/.28 pipe will work. Will it give you the most power and efficiency for the motor? I dunno.

Most of the pro's are running the Losi RE11 pipe with this motor and say they are loving that combo. Just got mine in and am going to switch out the stock one to see what difference I can see. Then I'm going to add the turbo head.

Clamber
09-25-2009, 04:45 PM
I called up Losi and they said running 30% was ok without any changes.

bones
09-25-2009, 05:10 PM
When I talked with losi the guy I talked to said that to run 30% in my 350 that I needed the turbo head or it would mess my motor up. Who knows? guess it is all who talk to

Audiobahnaholic
09-25-2009, 08:08 PM
I ran 30% Byron's last weekend racing and it was fouling plugs left and right with .5mm shimming. But ran excellent the night before on 20% same shimming. So my guess is the guy you talked to at Horizon don't know squat otherwise I got a fluke head kit.

dnebout
09-26-2009, 12:44 AM
Ok read the whole thread. Particularly interested in the Turbo Head. Most posts were about the 350. I have the 454. Motor has not been started (brand new).
Several guys at the track have new Losi 8Ts and most of them are having trouble tuning and starting. One guy got the turbo head when he bought the car and installed it right away (brand new). He has no problems and was on his 8th tank tonight.

Is this the turbo head a great way to get rid of some of the starting and tuning problems these aother guys are having? If I get the Head Kit, and am running 30% nitro, what turbo plug and how many shims should I start with?

WingWrecker
09-26-2009, 07:14 AM
Ok read the whole thread. Particularly interested in the Turbo Head. Most posts were about the 350. I have the 454. Motor has not been started (brand new).
Several guys at the track have new Losi 8Ts and most of them are having trouble tuning and starting. One guy got the turbo head when he bought the car and installed it right away (brand new). He has no problems and was on his 8th tank tonight.

Is this the turbo head a great way to get rid of some of the starting and tuning problems these aother guys are having? If I get the Head Kit, and am running 30% nitro, what turbo plug and how many shims should I start with?

I would venture to say that most of the guys problems are based on break-in pains. These motors have a VERY tight pinch when new and seem to take longer than usual to fully break in and lose the pinch. This causes erratic tuning and hard starting with the piston regularly getting stuck at TDC. I'm just over 12 tanks now and my 350 will still occasionally stop the starter motor and get stuck; this with a lipo!

I'm waiting till it finally 'drops its nuts' before I install the turbo head. This way I can gauge the difference it makes. Some say you can break in with it, others say wait. I will be starting with the plugs that come with the turbo head conversion and the two standard thick shims that the manual says to use. A third, thin shim is included to use as needed for tuning. But at my elevation 30% does not usually require extra shimming. At lower elevations you may need the extra shim or two.

bones
09-26-2009, 07:33 AM
I have ran a little over a half of a gallon through my 350 so far and you are defiantly right mine is still tight and still have trouble starting mine at times. Mine has been so tight that I have l have already striped a gear and belt off in my starter box. It has just started becoming a little easier to crank. looks about like it going to take a 3/4 a gallon or more to fully break in on 20%. I know several racers running the turbo head with no problem and soon as mine is broke in a little better I am going with the turbo head. The guys running the turbo head are wooping me up bad cant believe the difference in power it makes.

WingWrecker
09-26-2009, 08:12 AM
Some say it can take as much as a full gallon. But you'll know when it happens, as the temps will go down dramatically from the pinch loosening and it will start holding a solid tune.

Going out to to try my new RE11 in a little bit. I'll post my findings.

WingWrecker
09-26-2009, 03:20 PM
Going out to to try my new RE11 in a little bit. I'll post my findings.


NICE! I put a tank through in my parking lot today with the new RE11. It started very rich because the last time I ran her it was a bit cooler outside and I'm still new to car tuning so it took me a bit to carefully get to a decently leaner tune but by the end of the tank I could easily tell the difference this pipe makes.

Just as advertised, the low end punch loses a little but the mid and high range make up for it. My track is very dry and dusty anyways so losing some on the low is kind of beneficial for me at this point in my driving skills. I'll see what things are like when I get the turbo head and 4 shoe clutch installed.

I don't know if it's the pipe alone but my temps never got above 210-220 even after repeated, long, WOT runs near the end of the tank.

GET THE RE11!!! :D

dnebout
09-26-2009, 10:36 PM
No it won't hurt to run the turbo head during break in make sure you seal the engine and from what I have seen on the track the JP3 tends to do very well on most every engine. I have seen them on O.S engines, HPI engines, LRP engines. I haven't seen one on a 350 yet but it should run pretty good.

What do tou mean by sealing the engine? Sealing the Head?

Audiobahnaholic
09-26-2009, 10:46 PM
What do tou mean by sealing the engine? Sealing the Head?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xwDy-I0Z4I

dnebout
09-27-2009, 12:35 AM
No it won't hurt to run the turbo head during break in make sure you seal the engine and from what I have seen on the track the JP3 tends to do very well on most every engine. I have seen them on O.S engines, HPI engines, LRP engines. I haven't seen one on a 350 yet but it should run pretty good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xwDy-I0Z4I

Yeah, I've heard of doing that exact thing, but it's brand new. I guess you never know what you're gonna get. (like a box of chocolates !)

WingWrecker
09-27-2009, 05:57 AM
Yeah, I've heard of doing that exact thing, but it's brand new. I guess you never know what you're gonna get. (like a box of chocolates !)

At the very least, check the screws in the backplate. Mine unscrewed with zero resistance. Not even a little 'pop' of them breaking loose. They would've back themselves out for sure.

dnebout
09-27-2009, 09:53 AM
will do. maybe I'll just give it a quick water test. Then maybe after it's run through a few tanks I'll do it again.

bones
09-29-2009, 12:28 PM
I have a question i just installed the turbo button on my 350 and was wondering if i can still use 20% with the change or do you have to run 30% in it?

Audiobahnaholic
09-29-2009, 12:32 PM
I have a question i just installed the turbo button on my 350 and was wondering if i can still use 20% with the change or do you have to run 30% in it?

Mine ran great on 20% using all 3 shims included in the kit.

bones
09-29-2009, 02:09 PM
Great thanks for the info just did not want to waste the 20% fuel I already have.

WingWrecker
09-29-2009, 07:08 PM
Mine ran great on 20% using all 3 shims included in the kit.

Congrats on the win, Audio!

Now that you are out of the way, the 8ight-T is surely mine! :D

Audiobahnaholic
09-29-2009, 08:12 PM
Congrats on the win, Audio!

Now that you are out of the way, the 8ight-T is surely mine! :D

I hope you win it. I think if I buy a truggy I will get the Associated or build a Losi 2.0 just slowly buying new parts off ebay/

su3zero
10-02-2009, 08:08 AM
the run time go up with Re11, turbo head or i have to install both to have more fuel economy?

Audiobahnaholic
10-02-2009, 02:37 PM
The turbo head makes the biggest difference as far as fuel mileage in my opinion.

WingWrecker
10-02-2009, 05:27 PM
the run time go up with Re11, turbo head or i have to install both to have more fuel economy?

Still waiting to lose my pinch before I install the turbo head. I have the RE11 installed and so far it doesnt make a noticeable difference in fuel consumption, but I'm still running rich.

Evvy

bones
10-02-2009, 06:34 PM
I just got my 350 broke in good and just installed the turbo head, re11 pipe and four shoe clutch. taking it out to the track tomorrow and check it out. I used the three shims that came with the kit and the one shim already on the head. hoping I dont have the trouble that most everybody is having with starting and tuning it. guess will find out tomorrow one way or another. will post what happens tomorrow night.

WingWrecker
10-02-2009, 07:02 PM
I just got my 350 broke in good and just installed the turbo head, re11 pipe and four shoe clutch. taking it out to the track tomorrow and check it out. I used the three shims that came with the kit and the one shim already on the head. hoping I dont have the trouble that most everybody is having with starting and tuning it. guess will find out tomorrow one way or another. will post what happens tomorrow night.

Of the three shims in the kit, only two are meant to be used normally, the third is to be added if you have tuning issues. If you are running 20% I would think you'd only need the two. The two thick shims = .4mm.

I could be wrong. But that's the setup I'm going to start with, per the instructions that came with my conversion kit.

Audiobahnaholic
10-02-2009, 07:15 PM
What I found helped mine was running .6mm shimming and a odonnel 97t plug. The stock plugs I think are too hot and all three shims wasn't enough for me. Mine runs way better with this setup but I run 30%. On 20% I had good luck with the 3 shims in the kit.

WingWrecker
10-02-2009, 08:03 PM
What I found helped mine was running .6mm shimming and a odonnel 97t plug. The stock plugs I think are too hot and all three shims wasn't enough for me. Mine runs way better with this setup but I run 30%. On 20% I had good luck with the 3 shims in the kit.

I'm running 30% as well but at higher elevation (Denver.)

30% on the stock motor setup is fine up here with no added shims, but maybe I'll start with all 3 shims on the turbo head and see what gives.

bones
10-03-2009, 05:59 AM
It ran good on 20% but I am going to try and run some 30% in it today and see how it does. I read the same thing on the papers i got with the turbo head but i was going by what the hobby shop has been doing to the ones they have done so i figured i would try it first plus I am at a whole lot lower alt than you down here in the Mississippi delta

bones
10-03-2009, 06:20 PM
Ran my buggy today with the turbo head and 30% fuel. I had minimal difficulty starting and tuning the motor. It ran great on the firt run my temps were down 30 degrees cooler than before and had so much more power could not believe it was the same motor. I still have to do a little more fine tuning left to go but am very happy with the results so far.

WingWrecker
10-03-2009, 10:58 PM
Ran my buggy today with the turbo head and 30% fuel. I had minimal difficulty starting and tuning the motor. It ran great on the firt run my temps were down 30 degrees cooler than before and had so much more power could not believe it was the same motor. I still have to do a little more fine tuning left to go but am very happy with the results so far.

Great to hear!

I ran my 2.0 hard around the parking lot for 3 more tanks today and figured it's ready for the turbo head. So I did a thorough tear down/cleaning tonight and installed the turbo head and 4 shoe clutch.

I'll be at the track tomorrow with what I'm hoping will feel like a whole new setup. Wish me luck.

Evvy

WingWrecker
10-04-2009, 01:02 PM
Holy wow, what a difference the turbo button makes on my 350!!! :eek: Even running really rich it's like a whole different motor! It took me a few laps just to get used to it.. It even sounds better (snappier.) And yes with the turbo head and RE11 my temps went way down. Also getting over 10 mins of runtime even with it running rich.

That's by far the best $20 I've spent on upgrades... If you don't already have it, GET IT! :D

bones
10-04-2009, 05:15 PM
Glad you had good results with the turbo button as I did like a whole new car to play with now having to get use to it all over again. How much did you have to tune on the low speed needle? I still have a little tuning left to do mine acts like it is loading up at times after idling
for a bit

WingWrecker
10-04-2009, 05:40 PM
Glad you had good results with the turbo button as I did like a whole new car to play with now having to get use to it all over again. How much did you have to tune on the low speed needle? I still have a little tuning left to do mine acts like it is loading up at times after idling
for a bit

Mine was rich on the low end. I checked by pinch test. I leaned two hours and it seemed fine after that. Idled good and never quit on me.

madweazl
10-04-2009, 06:55 PM
I didnt notice much of a difference running the turbo button, 30%, and RE11 but I had issues tuning it. I pulled the turbo button off today. Next trip out I'll run a few back to back tests. I couldnt get it dialed in with .5mm but was able to get a decent tune with .6. Not sure if you guys experienced the same thing or not but the usable window for tuning was very small with the turbo button. Today after removing it I had a fairly wide window that the engine would run well at.

su3zero
10-04-2009, 08:19 PM
its good to read all this post...
i'll order my turbo head tomorrow...
i'm runing byron's 20%, i'm in rio de janeiro (sea level). How much shims i have to use

WingWrecker
10-05-2009, 03:30 PM
its good to read all this post...
i'll order my turbo head tomorrow...
i'm runing byron's 20%, i'm in rio de janeiro (sea level). How much shims i have to use

At my elevation, (5500 ft or so) I decided to run all three shims that came with the head, so .5mm for me. And it's seemed to be the magic number. Down at seal level I would say .6 to .7 maybe.

Madweazl, maybe try .7 and see if it tunes better for you? I dunno is that too much?

bones
10-05-2009, 04:14 PM
Down here in mississippi I am pretty much close to sea level and I used the three shims that came with the turbo head and the shim that was already on the head for a total of 4 shims not sure what mm it is but it runs great for me. Thanks wing for the info that fixed mine right up.

WingWrecker
10-05-2009, 05:00 PM
Down here in mississippi I am pretty much close to sea level and I used the three shims that came with the turbo head and the shim that was already on the head for a total of 4 shims not sure what mm it is but it runs great for me. Thanks wing for the info that fixed mine right up.

My stock 350 had two .1mm shims. But if what you have is working, then awesome. Every engine is going to react a little differently to it, even ones from the same mold.

I only ran mine for three tanks and the high end was rich, but I left it alone just to be safe. I'll tune for race next time out and see if it's difficult. If so, I may end up adding another shim.

jared52
10-05-2009, 07:22 PM
Hey guys,

My 2 month old 350 cracked under where the motor connects to the mount. Is that covered under warranty? If not, can you seal the crack somehow? If not, is there a place to order a replacement case for it?

Thanks.

madweazl
10-05-2009, 09:02 PM
My stock 350 had two .1mm shims. But if what you have is working, then awesome. Every engine is going to react a little differently to it, even ones from the same mold.

I only ran mine for three tanks and the high end was rich, but I left it alone just to be safe. I'll tune for race next time out and see if it's difficult. If so, I may end up adding another shim.

The 350 comes with 2 .2mm shims.

su3zero
10-06-2009, 10:27 AM
what kind of glow plug i have to use with turbo head?
a p3 is goog?

Audiobahnaholic
10-06-2009, 10:36 AM
I did't like the P3 in mine I switched to O'Donnell 97t plugs and I have had good luck with them.

su3zero
10-06-2009, 11:00 AM
wow... odonel cost a half of p3

madweazl
10-06-2009, 05:48 PM
I was running a P4 super hot. The plug looked fine; couldnt tell you if another would have worked better as I didnt try.

bones
10-09-2009, 11:56 AM
I am looking at getting a back up motor and was wondering if anybody has tried the dynamite platinum .21 I have heard some good stuff about them from a couple of racers around me but was just wondering how they were holding up and if they having any problems with them

Errorhead
10-09-2009, 12:34 PM
I am looking at getting a back up motor and was wondering if anybody has tried the dynamite platinum .21 I have heard some good stuff about them from a couple of racers around me but was just wondering how they were holding up and if they having any problems with them

I've got one and love it, easiest motor to tune as I ever had. Runs for a tad over 9mins in my buggy and has great power. I got some dirt in mine and had to rebuild it, but I should have it all broke back in by next week. Only thing bad I can says about it is stay away from the middle carb adjustment, just adjust the HS and LS like any other carb, that middle carb adjustment screw just seems to screw it all up. Once I got it back right, I just treated it like any other engine with two adjustments and perfect tune everytime. Hope this helps.

bones
10-13-2009, 05:04 AM
anybody running the turbo9 button on these dynamite platinum .21 or do they have enough power without it

Errorhead
10-13-2009, 12:52 PM
anybody running the turbo9 button on these dynamite platinum .21 or do they have enough power without it

I have never put a turbo on the dynamite I got, but I have used turbos on Losi 350's with good results. The Dynamite .21 has plenty of power as it stands, but can you really get too much power? LOL Well you talked me into it, I might just order me a turbo for it and try it.

rudedog9988
10-22-2009, 07:22 AM
does losi make a spin starter for the 350?

madweazl
10-22-2009, 08:04 PM
I tried the Odonnel 97t this past weekend and didnt notice any difference in performance from the P3 I ran the weekend before. They were both much better than the P4 I tried previously.

lomdel
11-28-2009, 08:06 PM
In a nutshell for the 8ight T 2.0 Truggy :
1. Turbo Head Conversion - Which OS glow plug for mid-high altitudes?
2. Losi pipe - The RE10 or RE11 for racing on tight tracks and bashing?

Have anyone here tried the Buku pipe ( http://www.bukupower.com/bigBlock.html ) on their 454 engine? My brother did and WOW, he noticed a HUUUUGE difference in performance through the entire power band! That seems to be the Buku's forte, the variable tuned length. They are a bit expensive as well. But to not compromise on either low-end and top-end range seems too good to be true... They are not race legal yet, but I see on their site that a race legal version (even more potent!) is soon to be released.

dg designs
12-07-2009, 08:46 PM
I got a JP-2 for it when Airland was having thier moving sale and according to the telemetry picked up 5 mph! :D No i don't really know how true that is but it definitely felt better.

Big Red
12-11-2009, 10:09 AM
This is the place to learn about the Team Losi 350 and 454 engines! Many of us with Team Losi are using these engines and having great luck with them. If you have any questions regarding the engines please ask here!


So far it has show in testing that the best pipes for the engines are the losi re10 and re11 pipes. I use the re11 on the 350 in buggy and it has a nice smooth feel with plenty of power.

The re10 seems to provide the bottom end power needed in truggy for the 454(.28) engine.

At this point I have ran the engines 100% box stock with great results. There is a turbo button head(conversion) that comes with shims that Losi offers. This should provide more power/runtime and a somewhat smoother running engine.

I will post some videos and part numbers asap. These are great engines even for a serious racer!

AB

Does losi have any carb restrictors for the 454 or can you tell me which one will work?
Thanks!

Dave72
02-05-2010, 03:37 PM
This is the place to learn about the Team Losi 350 and 454 engines! Many of us with Team Losi are using these engines and having great luck with them. If you have any questions regarding the engines please ask here!


So far it has show in testing that the best pipes for the engines are the losi re10 and re11 pipes. I use the re11 on the 350 in buggy and it has a nice smooth feel with plenty of power.

The re10 seems to provide the bottom end power needed in truggy for the 454(.28) engine.

At this point I have ran the engines 100% box stock with great results. There is a turbo button head(conversion) that comes with shims that Losi offers. This should provide more power/runtime and a somewhat smoother running engine.

I will post some videos and part numbers asap. These are great engines even for a serious racer!

AB just wondering what break in method you used for the 350?

05wrxsti
02-26-2010, 03:52 PM
Anyone running the RE-11 pipe with the turbo button on the 454? Does this combo work well for you?

lomdel
02-28-2010, 11:16 AM
Anyone running the RE-11 pipe with the turbo button on the 454? Does this combo work well for you?

I run the RE10 with the turbo button on my 454. The combo is extremely potent at bottom to mid range!! You don't need a lot of top speed on a tight track anyway. The turbo button conversion is a cheap upgrade with big difference margin. I currently still use one of the turbo plugs that came with the kit (2x) but have purchased som P3 & P4 plugs for the near future. The RE10 is also a recommendation from my humble side... My brother runs a Big-block Buku pipe on his 454 (with the turbo button) and he is veeeery excited about the results!

Adventure
03-05-2010, 05:46 PM
Kevin uses the re11 i think on the 350, same as what I use. It gives a smooth feel but still great power. The re10 should make it pop more but may not have the top.

I pitted Kevin at the Nationals with his truggy/454 combo and although heats were only 5-6 minutes he had half of a tank and ran I want to say 6 minutes and some change.

I used standard plugs in mine for now and used mc8's. I'll go to the combo Kevin mentioned above soon.

Hi just some Aussie input into the 350 and 454 losi engines i have (3) 350's and only the 1 454 . With the Losi 8ight 2.0 i run the 350's and get about 7 mins a tank avg is about 7 & 1/2 but the trouble is with the truggies and the 454 its goes hard thought id say that first but pitting b4 5mins and 20 sec or ull run out is a bit of a joke when u have a 150 ml tank in a truggy there thirsty , when my brother inlaw was telling me how he had to pit hes
8ight T 2.0 in a 6 min heat i thought "What" ur tune is way ,way out or something is wrong but after owning 1 from new and using tank after tank of fuel in similar time compared to my other engine where i was getting upto 11:20 a tank both 28's and i have tried different pipes next ill be tryin a few different carbs i am not knocking them they do go well just to heavy on fuel without some type of Mod .
So to get to my Question how big was the tank Kevin used if he still had a half a tank left or only started with a 1/2 after 6 min ? one out of a 1/5 scale ? lol what fuel did he run what was the oil % nitro % i do like them but if ur racing and putting in 6 min heats what hope do u have really ? then again some people might like to idle around the track .. just not me ;) .
Cheers Adam

Matt Murphy
03-05-2010, 09:22 PM
I use the 350 in my Losi L8 Model for oval racing. With the Turbo head conversion and shimming @ .08, I use OS P3 plugs and Nitrotane 30% fuel. I average about 7 to 7:30 on a tank (125cc). I run a conservative clutch setup. I am on the throttle hard after every corner, and oval racing is all about power. After my last Main event, I came off at 216*F.

Matt

Bibi
03-15-2010, 03:14 PM
hello everyone,

I am going to install a losi 454 engine in my muggy. is it neccessary to use the motor monts from the 454 or can I use the mounts off of the 427 engine??

thanks

buggyman
03-17-2010, 11:33 AM
Hey got a question I am running the 350 at my local track to practice with and was wondering does anybody know if I would be able to switch my carb from one of my old v-specs to this motor? Sorry if this question has been asked before

yoryo250
03-19-2010, 03:42 PM
i´m new at this i just bought my losi 3 weeks ago. and i have acouple of question?

I hava a losi eight t 2.0 rtr , what´s the best engine that i can use a .21 or a .28

which engine are best ... Novarossi, dynamite or losi,

madweazl
03-22-2010, 10:30 AM
The 350 is a pretty potent little motor. I installed the turbo button and RE11 and have been pretty happy. I race at Barona and ARC in southern California. On those track, I'll get 8:30-9 minutes (8:45 on the stock pipe, button, and 20%).

I just picked up the RTR truggy and grabbed a turbo button for it as well. The quals and main were basically it's break in session. Running pretty rich, I was able to get 8:02 out of it. Hoping I can get the same 8:30-9 mins of the 350.

This weekend I ran at a friends track (Phatdad on the Baja forums) that is absolutely enormous; I was getting 5:45-6:30 a tank! Your input to the carb makes a huge difference on fuel consumption.

I've been using a GRP Tuned .21 (buggy) for the last 2 weeks and noticed I didnt have any top end with it on the Phatdad track (using the 2053 pipe and 6.5mm restrictor). I swapped the 350 back and kept the 2053 pipe on it (only have 1 RE11 and it's on the truck); holy cow was it a rocket on the long back straight. Where the GRP was tapped out less than half way down the straight, the 350 pulled the entire way! I'm going to try that combo at Barona next weekend.

If I could get a consistent 9+ minutes out of the Losi motors I wouldnt run anything else. I'll be giving Alpha engines a shot in the next couple weeks (I've heard they have pretty good runtimes).

sluggo
03-22-2010, 01:15 PM
The 350 is a pretty potent little motor. I installed the turbo button and RE11 and have been pretty happy. I race at Barona and ARC in southern California. On those track, I'll get 8:30-9 minutes (8:45 on the stock pipe, button, and 20%).

I just picked up the RTR truggy and grabbed a turbo button for it as well. The quals and main were basically it's break in session. Running pretty rich, I was able to get 8:02 out of it. Hoping I can get the same 8:30-9 mins of the 350.

This weekend I ran at a friends track (Phatdad on the Baja forums) that is absolutely enormous; I was getting 5:45-6:30 a tank! Your input to the carb makes a huge difference on fuel consumption.

I've been using a GRP Tuned .21 (buggy) for the last 2 weeks and noticed I didnt have any top end with it on the Phatdad track (using the 2053 pipe and 6.5mm restrictor). I swapped the 350 back and kept the 2053 pipe on it (only have 1 RE11 and it's on the truck); holy cow was it a rocket on the long back straight. Where the GRP was tapped out less than half way down the straight, the 350 pulled the entire way! I'm going to try that combo at Barona next weekend.

If I could get a consistent 9+ minutes out of the Losi motors I wouldnt run anything else. I'll be giving Alpha engines a shot in the next couple weeks (I've heard they have pretty good runtimes).

Thanks for the post, I just ordered a 8t 2.0 rtr and was a little worried that the motor was going to be junk. I already have a re11 on the way for it and plan on installing the turbo head right after break in. I wonder if anyone has got a 350 or 454 moded for fuel milage to see how much better then can be?

madweazl
03-22-2010, 06:12 PM
If the button arrives on time just break it in with it installed. No reason to run the stock button; totally different motors with the turbo buttons.

sluggo
03-23-2010, 12:43 PM
If the button arrives on time just break it in with it installed. No reason to run the stock button; totally different motors with the turbo buttons.

ok I will put it in right off the start.

madweazl
03-23-2010, 04:39 PM
If you're running 30% (my recommendation), add a .1mm shim (included with the turbo button). If you're using 20%, just keep the shims from the original button.

buggyman
03-24-2010, 09:02 PM
My losi 350 gave out this am at the track. I have v-specs and Nov +4 and out of all of them I like my 350. It has lasted 8 months and cannot tell you how many gallons but I practice about 3-4 times a week has been a great little motor. The last week was the best it has run until this morning. I run the v-spec on my truggy and I have been running exclusively the 350 with the conversion kit and steel banjo and throttle fittings and have not had a lick of problems besides normal maintenance glow plugs and replace bearing. If anybody is thinking of buying one of these little motors I highly recommend it.

lomdel
03-25-2010, 02:52 AM
This is what happens when two of the balls of the main bearing split and sent metal fragments into the combustion chamber of my Losi 454 at speed!!

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/lomdel/220320102802.jpg (http://s221.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/lomdel/?action=view&current=220320102802.jpg)

kidc01
03-31-2010, 09:59 AM
I bought a losi 350, a RE11 pipe. and the turbo conversion. I only have a gallon and a half on both of them. I took the engine apart to inspect it to check for wear and regular cleaning. The rod has excessive wear. It clicks at TDC. The sleeve is stuck in the block. The temp never got over 230. What did I do wrong? Any help would be appriecated. Thanks.

sluggo
04-01-2010, 12:30 PM
Hey Madweazl can you tell me the starting needle settings you used for your 454. Mine are way off from the factory and the book says to start of at 2 1/2 out on both. To me that is way to lean for starting beakin.

Thanks

buggyman
04-02-2010, 07:51 PM
did you put the rod in backwards, wrong side facing the back plate if so the rod wont rotate the full cycle gets stuck

luckypunk
04-04-2010, 03:57 PM
getting the 454 broke in & was wondering if there is any other color of the cooling head?

I was going to get the turbo button & switch to a different color head at the same time

sluggo
04-04-2010, 04:15 PM
getting the 454 broke in & was wondering if there is any other color of the cooling head?

I was going to get the turbo button & switch to a different color head at the same time

there is this after market head, supposed to keep the temps down so it may be a double plus for you.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Losi-454-Cooling-Head-8ight-T-2-0-Truggy-Nova-Rc-eight_W0QQitemZ390173712983QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadi o_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5ad82a6257

Aceman
04-04-2010, 04:58 PM
hey guys this is my first post here and i have an odd question. Is the lsn on the 454 normally hard to turn, i wanted to put to stock setting for my break in but its hard to turn and i was scared that i would over tighten and not notice and ruin the needle

sluggo
04-04-2010, 05:01 PM
hey guys this is my first post here and i have an odd question. Is the lsn on the 454 normally hard to turn, i wanted to put to stock setting for my break in but its hard to turn and i was scared that i would over tighten and not notice and ruin the needle

Ya the seals on the needles are dry, try taking them out and putting some grease on them. They will turn alot easier and the grease will also help seal the needles better.

Aceman
04-04-2010, 05:07 PM
ok thanks ill try it out , i also noticed that my engine wasent running very hot at idle like maybe 120-140 i really had to lean it out to get my temps up this is why i want to put back to factory settings before i continue my break in

jared52
04-06-2010, 07:53 AM
Looking for recommendations for the turbo head plug. I use the McCoy MC-8 on the standard head. What works well for this motor with the turbo head?

Lapper
04-06-2010, 08:48 AM
I believe the team drivers are using OS P4's. At the beggining of this thread they talk about it.

jared52
04-06-2010, 09:15 AM
Ok, thank you.

losidriver
04-06-2010, 07:14 PM
does any have get break in setting for the needles on a 454 mine wont even idle good at 2 1/2 im in fl. the help would be appreciated

Aceman
04-06-2010, 09:31 PM
i had to lean mine out more to get it to idle im doing break in now and my temps wont get very high yet not sure why. when i did my first tank at idle it was at like 120-130 not good at all and it was spitting tons of fuel from the pipe and then when i started driving 1/4 throttle burts my temps were still only around 200 not sure why i have no air leaks and i have it all sealed up

sluggo
04-08-2010, 02:09 PM
The 350 is a pretty potent little motor. I installed the turbo button and RE11 and have been pretty happy. I race at Barona and ARC in southern California. On those track, I'll get 8:30-9 minutes (8:45 on the stock pipe, button, and 20%).

I just picked up the RTR truggy and grabbed a turbo button for it as well. The quals and main were basically it's break in session. Running pretty rich, I was able to get 8:02 out of it. Hoping I can get the same 8:30-9 mins of the 350.

This weekend I ran at a friends track (Phatdad on the Baja forums) that is absolutely enormous; I was getting 5:45-6:30 a tank! Your input to the carb makes a huge difference on fuel consumption.

I've been using a GRP Tuned .21 (buggy) for the last 2 weeks and noticed I didnt have any top end with it on the Phatdad track (using the 2053 pipe and 6.5mm restrictor). I swapped the 350 back and kept the 2053 pipe on it (only have 1 RE11 and it's on the truck); holy cow was it a rocket on the long back straight. Where the GRP was tapped out less than half way down the straight, the 350 pulled the entire way! I'm going to try that combo at Barona next weekend.

If I could get a consistent 9+ minutes out of the Losi motors I wouldnt run anything else. I'll be giving Alpha engines a shot in the next couple weeks (I've heard they have pretty good runtimes).

how do you like the re11 on your 454? is it better then the stock pipe? I have read from a few people that the re11 really robs the motor oof top end speed. Just wondering what you have found .

Lapper
04-12-2010, 08:30 PM
The RE10 pipe is for low end power and the RE11 is for top end speed.

lomdel
04-17-2010, 12:27 PM
Anyone have any good tips on how to properly insert a new rear bearing into the 454 engine? I heated up the crankcase (probably not enough) and it still won't seat and tried a few different unorthodox methods as well, but to no avail...

smgrajeda
04-18-2010, 08:56 PM
Anyone recommend air restrictors on the losi 350? If so, which models fit the 350?

Thanks,
Steve

lomdel
04-21-2010, 01:41 AM
What are the benefits of either a 5-port or a 7-port .21 engine in a Truggy? Which one is more widely used in Truggies?

Foster133
04-21-2010, 07:07 PM
i have the 353 engine with the turbo kit and stock rtr buggy pipe... i can see a trail of smoke when i get on it that slowly gets thinner as i hold it on but never goes away.. the temps are 220-230 and im getting 13-14 min run times on one tank!:eek: seems almost too good to be true so im wondering maybe somethings wrong? any help:o

jonski
05-02-2010, 10:29 AM
how do you like the re11 on your 454? is it better then the stock pipe? I have read from a few people that the re11 really robs the motor oof top end speed. Just wondering what you have found .

I ran the RE11 and didn't like it on my 454. I had to keep leaning it out and still couldn't get my top end speed back. Put the stock pipe on, richened it and love it. I am currently running the stock pipe and turbo head. The 454 is a great motor.

Big Red
05-06-2010, 05:41 PM
Does losi have any carb restrictors for the 454 or can you tell me which one will work?
Thanks!

I talked to horizon hobby and one of the tech guys told me the carb off of anyone of the dynamite .28 will fit on the 454. So I'm thinking of trying it out with some restrictors to see if I gain any run time.

thebiggbee
09-12-2010, 07:34 PM
have you tried any new carbs, love the 454, but a pig on gas, i.ve been told the lrp .28 spec 3. (fuel boiling in uninsulated carbs)

bigdaddymike
10-19-2010, 09:35 AM
guys can you give me some advise on how to get the pinch to loosen up a friend told me to take off the clutch bell and glow plug then put some atf fluid for lubrication then lock the shaft to the drill and make the drill go adding more atf every 5min. have any body tried this or is there an easyer way, does the heat gun method really work im scared to break my starter box and engine, tnx guys

Sein
10-19-2010, 06:20 PM
guys can you give me some advise on how to get the pinch to loosen up a friend told me to take off the clutch bell and glow plug then put some atf fluid for lubrication then lock the shaft to the drill and make the drill go adding more atf every 5min. have any body tried this or is there an easyer way, does the heat gun method really work im scared to break my starter box and engine, tnx guys

I broke a couple of starter belts breaking my 454 in. The best way is to heat the motor up first with heat gun or hair dryer then leave the glow plug a little loose and start the engine. Once it fires up tighten down the glow plug. You are going to have to keep bumping the throttle while you are doing this because the pinch wants to stop the piston from moving.

bigdaddymike
10-19-2010, 08:55 PM
I broke a couple of starter belts breaking my 454 in. The best way is to heat the motor up first with heat gun or hair dryer then leave the glow plug a little loose and start the engine. Once it fires up tighten down the glow plug. You are going to have to keep bumping the throttle while you are doing this because the pinch wants to stop the piston from moving.

tnx sein if the pinch dont loosen up ill try the heatgun way you guys have any advise for best set up, i added two blue clutch with gold spring to the 2silver clutc that came with the 350 im planning to add turbo conversion and re10 pipe any comments or advise tnx

sluggo
10-20-2010, 01:43 PM
have you tried any new carbs, love the 454, but a pig on gas, i.ve been told the lrp .28 spec 3. (fuel boiling in uninsulated carbs)

I got a sportwerks carb from a friend that works great. It is the exact copy of the losi carb but takes inserts. I use a 7.5mm insert with my sons 454, with turbo head and a orion 2013 pipe. The motor screems like crazy and has way to much power. We are still only getting 9min to a tank though so not a huge improvment.

OZrc
10-21-2010, 03:20 PM
The 350 is a pretty potent little motor. I installed the turbo button and RE11 and have been pretty happy. I race at Barona and ARC in southern California. On those track, I'll get 8:30-9 minutes (8:45 on the stock pipe, button, and 20%).

I just picked up the RTR truggy and grabbed a turbo button for it as well. The quals and main were basically it's break in session. Running pretty rich, I was able to get 8:02 out of it. Hoping I can get the same 8:30-9 mins of the 350.

This weekend I ran at a friends track (Phatdad on the Baja forums) that is absolutely enormous; I was getting 5:45-6:30 a tank! Your input to the carb makes a huge difference on fuel consumption.

I've been using a GRP Tuned .21 (buggy) for the last 2 weeks and noticed I didnt have any top end with it on the Phatdad track (using the 2053 pipe and 6.5mm restrictor). I swapped the 350 back and kept the 2053 pipe on it (only have 1 RE11 and it's on the truck); holy cow was it a rocket on the long back straight. Where the GRP was tapped out less than half way down the straight, the 350 pulled the entire way! I'm going to try that combo at Barona next weekend.

If I could get a consistent 9+ minutes out of the Losi motors I wouldnt run anything else. I'll be giving Alpha engines a shot in the next couple weeks (I've heard they have pretty good runtimes).


i get 13.40 run time.053 pipe.

Sinakal
07-18-2011, 09:33 AM
my losi 350 has about a gallon and half through it I have the turbo head and RE11 pipe.. I run my motor between 220 and 240F.. But now i have this annoying idle issue the idle stays high untill i rev it a little then it goes down.. but if i get back on the gas and then let it idlel it goes back to a high idle then i give it a couple of revs and goes back to the set idle I have changed fuel lines the carb seems fine but I have read some where that the boot on the carb could have an air leak which can cause weird issues like this? I get a pretty good tune and the motor is strong the idle issue is just kind of annnoying mentally when i drive i can hear the changes in the idle when im off throttle Any help is greatly apprciated

timmyZ06
08-18-2011, 10:09 AM
Nobody knows the real basics setting for the 454
Hsn flush to the brass and lsn 3 1/2 turns is that right?

Token
08-18-2011, 10:40 AM
Nobody knows the real basics setting for the 454
Hsn flush to the brass and lsn 3 1/2 turns is that right?

are you talking about factory settings.

timmyZ06
08-20-2011, 04:55 AM
YES im talking about the closest basic setup from what i need
Something its drive awesome and the next run running like crap on the same setup, fuel weather what gives?
And i might think i have a air leak somewhere b/c even thought its rich on lsn its idle it is super lean.

havana daydreaming
09-04-2011, 03:41 PM
So this thread moves slow but I have a question. Tried to seal my engine today because I have been having idle problems. The rear seal was cake, but I couldn't get the carb off. Took out the bolt, pulled, yanked and twisted, but it wouldn't move. Just reassembled everything and mounted it back in the buggy for now. How hard is it supposed to be to remove the carb assembly?

RevoUsa
09-06-2011, 12:39 PM
did the inserts come out with the screw ? If NOT no big deal! sometimes the inserts don't want to budge and you have to put something in the hole and give it a good tap to get it to come out the other side, then flip it over and repeat !

milk50
09-16-2011, 09:40 AM
I've got a 8t rtr with the 454 engine in it.

I am wanting to upgrade the stock pipe.

What are the pipes that work best in the 454.

I am considering the following.

RE10
RE11
OS2060
maybe a Jammin jp3.

I usually run it on a mediumish track. Looking for better runtime mostly.

emanuelambrose
02-12-2012, 11:55 PM
The Losi 350 engine is specially built for off road buggies. This Losi 350 engine features a large bore carburetor design which provides ample intake capacity, High and low speed needles designed for easy adjustment. and Losi 454 is design for low end torque for high - rev horse power. It is more powerful engine than 350.

Jake C6R
02-17-2012, 04:57 PM
I am putting the turbo head on and want to start running 30%. The turbo kit says for normal conditions use the one thick shim with the turbo head. Since I am going from 20% to 30% should I add a 0.1mm shim? I believe I read somewhere that 0.6mm total is the right combo - one thick 0.5mm and one thin 0.1mm shim, correct? Thanks! - Follow up - I ended up using both shims that came with the kit for 30% and took out the one that was already installed. Worked out great. I think the shims the kit comes with is one 0.2mm and one 0.1mm.

trex011
04-27-2012, 03:39 PM
would a .28 engine fit in the losi muggy that has a .27 engine. would it fit with out modifications? because i would like to put a 454 engine instead of a 427 engine into my losi muggy.

Token
04-27-2012, 08:40 PM
In theory yes. You just need to make sure the starter don't hit the chassis.