Losi 8ight t servos

[desertracer991]

I have a losi 8ight t and my throttle servo just went out :mad:. I have only about a half gallon through it. All the racers at my track say that my steering one will also go out soon. I am wondering if the servos are just weak and i need better ones or will this keep happining even with upgraded sevos :confused:. If i need new sevos what would be the best to use.

[segmentfault]

I have a losi 8ight t and my throttle servo just went out :mad:. I have only about a half gallon through it. All the racers at my track say that my steering one will also go out soon. I am wondering if the servos are just weak and i need better ones or will this keep happining even with upgraded sevos :confused:. If i need new sevos what would be the best to use.

I'm using an XP DS1015 which is 201oz of torque and 0.10s steering. I've only had it in there for about a week, but it came highly recommended by users in message forums such as this one and by my local hobby shop (lhs.)

You can also go for the ACE or XP 1313 model as well for a buggy. I've been told the DS1015 is overkill for a buggy and mostly used for a truggy but I figured I'd go for it anyways as it was only $30 more.

Hope this helps

seg

[rc-guy]

there are two other post in this forum on this problem i myself have owned both 1.0 and the supposed fixed truggy version 2.0. and have tried different good quality servo in them and done every possable fix, mod, and or gimmik. with nothing but a stack of burnt out servos to show for it. i sold my version one and swore never to by one again.. dumb old me got back into this one more time and here we go again. now the ball in in losi corn, they are getting my truggy back and well better fix this or make me an offer i can not refuse as i went from second fighting for first in our club season point to lossing second and ending up in third. and having a good bill on my credit card because of servos i had to buy. glad next year im going brushless and i will see if i will still be with losi or another company and this is not acceptable. jammin, mugen, and Associated do not have this problem

[Briguy]

I have had the 1.0 and 2.0 buggy and truggy and never had a servo go out and only reason I see people burning them up is because they do not setup the linkage and EPA correctly . I have seen this many times .

[rc-guy]

well i have more then set my epa right. even alowing at lest a 1/16 of play on the end of travel to alow for flex i even give up some brake power to just to see if that might have been the problem.

to add if its epa setting then why right from losi there rtr are even blowing out throttle servos?? would you be saying they are not setting it up the right way???

the funny thing is this dont happen to every losi out ther my fellow racer using my set ups on his rtr versoin 1.0 truggy only blow out the stock 270 and has never had a problem since. so go figure.

[Briguy]

What servos are you using ? I can see ongoing problems if using weak servos and they are struggling . I never did the o-ring or tray stiffener or other ideas , just used the spacers to keep the servos from hitting the chassis[even when the chart says not needed] , set the throttle/brake linkage correctly and adjusted EPA so the tray does not move . Same with steering servo . Wish I had an answer for ya .


segmentfault , the DS1015 has 200 oz and is not overkill for a buggy and is a bit weak in a truggy IMO .

[tommy2112]

the only servo i blew was a steering servo and i believe and was told that the servo saver spring was to stiff and to go to the 1.0 spring and this solved the problem ... and i use high end servos ! no cheap servos here !

[rc-guy]

i use nothing but high torqe servos for throttle servo on a losi want the list here u go...lol
Futaba BLS351 Digital Brushless High Torque Servo
airtronics 94358
ko propo 2174, which after buying it found out it was old stock
two jr 650 ....for throttle

and this is just on the 2.0 truggy.

no issues what so ever with steering


like i say i have done everything and now its up to losi to figure it out i quite. never had a truggy do this and i know i will never have this problem again

[hdcruzer]

I had my throttle servo go. upgraded to jr 590 for throttle and still running the jr 650 for steering with no problems. Put almost 3 gallons of gas thru it. Although I do plan on upgrading the steering to hitec 7955.

[Kicker]

Desertracer, The stock servos are crap. If you call up horizan hobbies they will confirm the issues about the servos and replace them. How ever if you want to save some time and headache get your self some nice servos. Yes you will spend a few bucks on the new servos but you get what you pay for. high end jr, htec, and ace servos are all good servos. Personaly i use hitec 7955 for stearing and hitec 5625mg for my th/break (not the best servo but has worked well). What i would like to understand is how some see the stock servos that come with the rtr are good servos??????

[su3zero]

kicker, how long time are you using 5625?
it's a good price, i'll buy a 8b rtr, the first thing i'll do is change servos... 5625 have a good price.....

[Kicker]

i have been using the 5625mg for 3 months now. It has held up well. I would not use it for steering but its good for th/brake.

[alexdevries]

hey i have a futaba servo in mine i bought it for 50 $ it just a metal gear is that good for it the number is S3305 futaba metal gear any ideas people?

[alexdevries]

they come with jr servos

[OZrc]

I have been through the same problems as everybody else,racing will test any vehicle and servo.

Your steering works the hardest and running 200 oz servo’s for truggies is a waste of money.
I now only run the toughest one’s out there 480oz of torque steering and 403 oz for carb and brake.

Running the stronger one’s puts less stress on the servo’s and then they will run longer trouble free.

Sure you can keep on playing with the under powered or cheap stuff and keep on complaining,but once you fork out the money for the decent power and quality then you run trouble free.

You just have to reach into your pocket and pull the money out,as this hobby is not cheap.

[ghost68]

Hey Just a couple things to double check.

Make sure your linkages are setup straight and not binding. The throttle has to be parallel to the chassis or it will pull the servo towards the engine and cause the bottom of the servo to hit the chassis guard. Add even a slight impact when the servo is bound up and then the chassis flexes and your servo is TOAST.

Make sure you aren't putting too much stress on your servos by not properly adjusting your epa's you definitely NEVER want the servo to stall on the throttle side and you don't need nearly as much braking as you might think. You only want enough brake to make it difficult to turn the center diff with your thumb.

I would also take a minuter two and dremel out the chassis guard so that there is no chance at all that the servo can ever touch it. I bet if you look right now it less that 1mm from rubbing!

Make a note to double check the linkage and servo clearance any time you change your servos!

When I first started with my 8IGHT-T 2.0 I went through the stock servo in about a gallon
After that I switched to Hitec 7955-TG's for the throttle and burned up three of them within the next gallon because they were hitting the chassis guards with perfect EPA's and correctly setup linkages. I have since dremeled out the chassis guards and been problem free for about 5 gallons.

[OZrc]

I forgot to mention…….
If you only bash around then you can pick a cheaper servo.
If you race then that’s a different story.Spend up and buy decent servo’s.

I see too many servo failures on the track these days.They do get worked fairly hard under race conditions.