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View Full Version : Tuning Kit for XXX-SCT/SCB Delivers Performance and Savings


Dman
05-03-2011, 09:36 AM
Tune your XXX-SCT or XXX-SCB like the drivers from Team Losi Racing...and save money in the process. Our team drivers have put together their preferred list of option parts for the XXX-Short Course platfrom into one box - the XXX-Platform Short Course Tuning Kit (TLR0900). This kit gives you all the performance parts you need to give your XXX-SCT or XXX-SCB a TLR Tuned performance set-up.

Purchase the TLR Tuned Kit and you'll save over $200 vs. purchasing the items separately. You'll also get a special TLR Tuned decal sheet that is only available in the box.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=TLR0900

http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo/TLR/450/TLR0900-450.jpg?rand=537886670

Dman
05-03-2011, 10:58 AM
Here's a list of what is included:

5teven5
07-07-2011, 09:07 PM
I just finished installing the tuning kit. One question, the rear TLR hubs that came with the kit are narrower than the stock hub carrier, resulting in slop or free space on each side of the hub carrier where it is fastened to the A-Arm. Is this intentional? What am I missing. Someone please help asap!

thanks,

Steven

xprestonex
07-19-2011, 10:09 PM
"nylon spacers" ...... to adjust/fine-tune the wheelbase ;)

(either buy some, or make your own using your old a-arms)

http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA2216

LMFAO so its an incomplete kit? You buy this kit, but need to buy spacers to use the kit? lol

xprestonex
07-20-2011, 07:59 AM
Um, I suppose you could look at it that way - or you can also look at it that most everyone (other than newbies) has a few spacers here or there kicking arond in their pitbox. ;)

Right.....lol

5teven5
07-21-2011, 08:40 AM
Okay, blame it on me being a newbie. That's fine, but you could have thrown in some spacers or made the hub carriers the same width as the stock ones.

Yesterday, I went to my lhs. The owner said the tuning kits dont include bearings for the idler gear/shaft, and that the stock ones don't work. He has the correct ones on order he said. My stock ones seemed to have worked for me, can you please clarify?

Additionally, there are no instructions, which is a pain. Not sure if Losi intended to make the kit anti-newbie or what... What the heck are the small bearings and small set screws for in the baggies that have the shock parts? I cannot seem to figure that out...

Casper
07-21-2011, 10:53 AM
Okay, blame it on me being a newbie. That's fine, but you could have thrown in some spacers or made the hub carriers the same width as the stock ones.

Yesterday, I went to my lhs. The owner said the tuning kits dont include bearings for the idler gear/shaft, and that the stock ones don't work. He has the correct ones on order he said. My stock ones seemed to have worked for me, can you please clarify?

Additionally, there are no instructions, which is a pain. Not sure if Losi intended to make the kit anti-newbie or what... What the heck are the small bearings and small set screws for in the baggies that have the shock parts? I cannot seem to figure that out...

The diff instructions are there from what I was told. The rest of the stuff is take it off and replace it. Really should not need a lot of instructions for that.

The rear hub spacers were missed in the first kits. I think later ones should have them. It was an oops. Being able to move the hubs forward and back is a valuable tuning aid so it is a good thing. Losi sells the spacers
http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA2127
or you can use 4 .030 #4 washers like I do.

The little bearings are for bearing steering. There are plastic bushings supporting the bellcranks and these bearings replace those for smoother steering.

The set screws go into the bottom of the rear hubs to take out any hingepin slop.

The tuning kit was not totally intended for the newbie as the kit runs great out of the box for those new to the hobby. The Tuning kit was intended for the racer who wants to get the most out of the truck/buggy. Not to say newbies won't see benefits from stronger tie rods and other great things that come with the kit but the intended end user will most likely have already taken the truck/buggy apart and recognize the parts.

As always there are lots of us here to help answer any questions you may have during your build.

Casper
07-21-2011, 11:21 AM
There are two 5X8 bearings for the diff. There should be 4 3/32X3/16 (really little guys) for the steering belcranks. The 5X8's should be in the diff bag. The 3/32X3/16 would not be with the diff stuff.

Casper
07-21-2011, 12:16 PM
No, I was referencing the 2 "smaller" bearings (to go inside the balldiff/diff gear). Isn't that correct?
The 5x8 bearing are for the outdrives, to ride in the tranny case halves, aren't they?
Yeah, the 4 really tiny bearings are for the bellcranks.

Now I'm confused ...LOL

No the large outdrive bearings that go into the case are the same for the gear and ball diff. Those are large 1/2X3/4 bearings.

The 5X8 are small that go inside the diff.

5teven5
07-21-2011, 12:29 PM
Thank you very much for the responses, but you didn't answer/clarify whether or not the bearings for the idler/shaft transfer over from the old transmission to the new, without an issue. Why is my LHS saying they had to order new bearings to fit the different idler/shaft?

By the way, the car is awesome with the tuning kit. Someone said I wouldn't be able to tell a difference, but I could. I also upgraded the shock tower. The car is much more agile, turns, handles, everything better. First night racing, before the tuning kit, I got dead last. The next week, after the tuning kit, got 2nd out of 7. Showed all the SC10's what's up!

JAFO913
07-21-2011, 01:32 PM
Just wondering where most people mounted a transponder on the SCB? Thanks.

xprestonex
07-21-2011, 02:19 PM
Little reason for having a pitbox if all you carry in it is a screwdriver and a hexwrench, you can carry them in your pocket if that's all you've got. LOL :D
Otherwise, I guess you can also complain that it's not all pre-assembled for you too. ;)

SO like I stated its incomplete, no matter what excuses you try and come up with. I like my Losi Rc's but I have never meet a bigger know it all fan boy lol. Does Losi pay you to troll the forums sticking up for them?

JAFO913
07-21-2011, 08:20 PM
I called the TLR help line and was told to use whatever spacers I felt like using (which I already did). No offer to send me any.. Not a big deal.. just letting you guys know what my experience was.

JAFO913
07-25-2011, 01:01 PM
Thanks to almost everyone for their help.

Casper
07-25-2011, 05:49 PM
Thank you very much for the responses, but you didn't answer/clarify whether or not the bearings for the idler/shaft transfer over from the old transmission to the new, without an issue. Why is my LHS saying they had to order new bearings to fit the different idler/shaft?

By the way, the car is awesome with the tuning kit. Someone said I wouldn't be able to tell a difference, but I could. I also upgraded the shock tower. The car is much more agile, turns, handles, everything better. First night racing, before the tuning kit, I got dead last. The next week, after the tuning kit, got 2nd out of 7. Showed all the SC10's what's up!

The tuning kit should be a noticeable upgrade especially with the upgrade towers and nose plate added.

I don't know why the bearings and idler/shaft did not transfer over. They are the same for both. Only difference should have been the case and the diff.

5teven5
08-02-2011, 07:59 AM
The bearings transferred over just fine. That was just a rumor started at the lhs. Truck runs great. The week following my 2nd place finish, I took 1st. Unfortunately, lost my ball diff last race and ended up in 5th.

The ball diff went after 6-8 packs. The outdrives and everything look okay, but the gear is destroyed. Where can I find rebuild kit? Or, do I need to order parts seperately?

Casper
08-02-2011, 12:41 PM
XXX diff only comes in spare parts. There is no "rebuild kit" If the gear is destroyed the diff was set too loose or the slipper too tight. Either way the diff was allowed to slip which is pretty much the only way to ruin the main gear.

Check out this thread on rctech for next time you build the diff!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/512013-how-properly-build-break-ball-differential-slipper-clutch.html

JEDI BASS
08-03-2011, 12:29 AM
Does Losi pay you to troll the forums sticking up for them?

Looks like there's no more trolling going on lately.... AHHHHHH.... so nice!

Back on topic: My tuning kit should arrive tomorrow. My Castle ESC and brushless motor WAS working VERY well for me, but the ESC glitched yesterday evening and destroyed BOTH my Lipos :mad:... that's $170 worth of 5 week old batteries (w/ only about 8 cycles each) gone! I'm calling Castle as soon as they open, and then Venom if Castle doesn't fix the problem. Not Venom's fault but they may help anyways.

I'm a newb... but aren't electrics supposed to be easier than nitro? I mean... my stock Losi ESC glitched several times on me and went into NiMH mode and nearly killed a friend's Lipo, and it went into practice mode or crawler mode whenever it wanted. I just spent $213 for a Castle system and 2nd time running it = 2 dead Lipos. Is this crap common? I mean, I can't possibly reprogram (using the audible beep method) the ESC trackside every time I plug in a battery... and shouldn't have to RIGHT? Any help or info from you electric guys would be appreciated.

T-MAN
08-03-2011, 04:27 AM
If you're having problems with both the stock and Castle ESC, my first guess is that the battery for your reciever is not charged properly or is flawed

T-MAN
08-04-2011, 08:07 AM
Picking up my kit tomorroe Woot! Woot! I'm assuming once I'm done the conversion I'll still be able to run in the Stock Class?

Casper
08-04-2011, 08:25 AM
That will depend on the rules for your club. If they allow chassis upgrades they yes. If they require you to run a box stock truck then no. Most places define classes by the motor and class of vehicle so you can mod your car. Check with your local race director though.

T-MAN
08-04-2011, 10:21 AM
That will depend on the rules for your club. If they allow chassis upgrades they yes. If they require you to run a box stock truck then no. Most places define classes by the motor and class of vehicle so you can mod your car. Check with your local race director though.
Thanks for the reply. I've since checked the rules and yes, we're allowed chassis/suspension mods, just have to keep the electronics/motor stock, along with SC body (can be aftermarket) and mud flaps. Can't wait to see what kind of improvemet this kit makes. Those ugly Slashes won't stand a chance LOL

Casper
08-04-2011, 10:39 AM
It makes a noticable difference. I would add graphite towers and nose plate to the tuning kit for the ultimate in perfomance upgrades. The tower and nose plate help add more steering and tuning response.

T-MAN
08-04-2011, 11:25 AM
Do you have Part #s? Ican't find them in the products section. Thanks

Casper
08-04-2011, 11:33 AM
http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA9713

http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA9722

http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA9822

T-MAN
08-04-2011, 11:36 AM
Thank you, Sir

modeltech
08-07-2011, 07:37 AM
Casper, i am sure this question has been asked a hundred times but what set-up would you recommend for a outdoor open track? i have the full tune-up kit to put on and have the graphite shock towers and nose plate. just neeeding shock oil suggestions and so on. thanks for your time.

Casper
08-07-2011, 08:25 PM
This is my std setup that I like just about everywhere I run.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/setuptriplexsct/3XSCT_Casper_OCRC20101207.pdf

modeltech
08-08-2011, 08:47 AM
thank you for your time. one more stupid question but when you guys say buggey springs are you talking about the frt buggey or rear springs to use, in the front of the truck?

Casper
08-08-2011, 11:42 AM
thank you for your time. one more stupid question but when you guys say buggey springs are you talking about the frt buggey or rear springs to use, in the front of the truck?

The 2" front buggy springs. The "truck" fronts are the same as the truck and buggy rear springs. The shorter buggy front springs give a little more pregressive feel and support the front end better from excessive body roll.

modeltech
08-08-2011, 05:27 PM
awesome!! thanks again for your time!! i just made a big order from the local hobby shop.

T-MAN
08-18-2011, 07:46 AM
Well, it took a while but I've now got the tuning kit conversion done. Pleasantly surprised as I didn't think it would make that much of a difference as you're basically swapping out parts for the same parts, just CF. But I can really notice how much it stiffens up the whole truck and makes it much tighter, much improved steering. Just a word of advice, it's not really worth doing unless you spend a little xtra and go with the CF towers and kick plate with bracket. IMO that's the key to the whole project. Thanks Losi, great product. And yes, it did come with instructions and the rear a-arm spacers LOL

Casper
08-18-2011, 08:04 AM
Yes the graphite nose plate and towers do help a lot. The arms are stiffer with the TLR tuned kit so the whole package together really make a big difference.

T-MAN
08-18-2011, 09:25 AM
Yes the graphite nose plate and towers do help a lot. The arms are stiffer with the TLR tuned kit so the whole package together really make a big difference.
Exactly. The only problem I encounterd was as the CF is so much harder, I stripped out the heads on a few of the smaller screws. Quick question Casper, I'm running a Dynamite brushless system. What motor would you suggest, as I have 5800KV and it's just waaaay too much power, the truck's basically uncontrollable in the dirt. Great for speed runs on the pavement though. Flips over backwards on command LOL

Casper
08-18-2011, 10:31 AM
If you have to stick sensorless look for something in the 4000kV range. Still great speed but something a little more controllable. If that speedo does sensored then 10.5 range it what I like in these trucks.

Yeah I always pre tap my graphite with a 4-40 tap or at least use a cap head screw so you can use a more robust 3/32 driver to get the holes started!

T-MAN
08-31-2011, 05:19 AM
If you have to stick sensorless look for something in the 4000kV range. Still great speed but something a little more controllable. If that speedo does sensored then 10.5 range it what I like in these trucks.

Yeah I always pre tap my graphite with a 4-40 tap or at least use a cap head screw so you can use a more robust 3/32 driver to get the holes started!

Thanks. Installed a 3800 kv Castle Sidewinder brushless system and still lots of power but very smooth and much more controllable. The Slashes don't stand a chance now LOL

TakeAim
09-01-2011, 05:26 PM
I am very new to RC, but have a Losi 22 kit, SCTE 4x4, and have ordered a 22T. I'm sure Losi is thinking about it but I believe a big seller would be an upgraded version of the SCT 2WD with the current tune up kit and other parts people have mentioned to make it into a first class roller or kit. I'll add the electronics of my choice. I'm ready to buy it.
TakeAim

T-MAN
09-07-2011, 12:56 PM
Only complaint with the kit, it comes with the aluminum rear hubs, so why not the front spindles & carriers?? I was going to order them but they don't match because they're blue.

Casper
09-07-2011, 12:58 PM
The alum rear hubs offer some tuning additons. The alum front caster blocks are just weight and don't break often if ever.

modeltech
09-14-2011, 02:04 PM
This is my std setup that I like just about everywhere I run.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/setuptriplexsct/3XSCT_Casper_OCRC20101207.pdf


Thanks again Casper your set-up worked well just needed to move the front shocks in for a bit more steering, but the tune-up kit along with graphite nose plate and front and rear shock towers the truck really works well. thanks again!

BRSracing
11-13-2011, 11:26 AM
I am installing the ball differential in the xxx sct. There is one cupped washer that is not listed in the instructions in the kit. The cupped wahser is also not listed in the xxx cr instructions for building a ball diff. I noticed this washer also comes with the replacement monster diff? Can't figure out where it goes?

Casper
11-14-2011, 09:22 AM
It is not needed. It was included with some other parts when the TLR diff was speced so not needed.

jdd9874
11-20-2011, 10:54 PM
Thank you very much for the responses, but you didn't answer/clarify whether or not the bearings for the idler/shaft transfer over from the old transmission to the new, without an issue. Why is my LHS saying they had to order new bearings to fit the different idler/shaft?
http://www.tara-mediumss.com/zhangwei2.jpg
http://www.tara-mediumss.com/zhangwei3.jpg

Casper
11-20-2011, 11:44 PM
Bearings from the RTR tranny are the same ones used with the TLR upgrade kit.

R&B_Racing
03-30-2012, 06:13 PM
http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA9713

http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA9722

http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA9822

The Graphite FR Shock Tower.
Is this for the XXX-SCB or the XXX-SCT?
I had ordered one and it was the wrong one for my XXX-SCB.
Does Losi make a Graphite FR Shock Tower for the Buggy or not.

Tommy R
04-24-2012, 06:28 AM
The Graphite FR Shock Tower.
Is this for the XXX-SCB or the XXX-SCT?
I had ordered one and it was the wrong one for my XXX-SCB.
Does Losi make a Graphite FR Shock Tower for the Buggy or not.

I noticed the same thing. I don't believe Losi makes a graphite front tower replacement for the SCB. Hopefully they will!

Casper
04-24-2012, 11:50 AM
I noticed the same thing. I don't believe Losi makes a graphite front tower replacement for the SCB. Hopefully they will!

I don't see that happening. The SCB tower due to it being so narrow is not all that bad flex wise.

If I posted the graphite front tower in response to the SCB I am truely sorry. They only make the graphite tower for the SCT. This is combined thread.

Tommy R
04-24-2012, 12:06 PM
I don't see that happening. The SCB tower due to it being so narrow is not all that bad flex wise.

Ah, yes, good point!