8IGHT-T 2.0 Truggy RTR

[khudzik]

No official thread for this truck yet? Maybe this will become one. Anyway I invite everyone to ask questions, share their thoughts, experiences and observations on this great offering from Losi. I got an RTR as a birthday present a couple of weeks ago, that truggy is an absolute blast.

http://i654.photobucket.com/albums/uu263/overdriverc/MyRTR003.jpg

http://i654.photobucket.com/albums/uu263/overdriverc/MyRTR006.jpg

[SRT4Johnny]

Just broke mine in today whata nice truck! Hey what cooling head is that on your motor?

[dnebout]

Just broke mine in today whata nice truck! Hey what cooling head is that on your motor?


Cool, finally someone started a thread for this RTR.

I've got 5 tanks through mine and had a few questions for you. Since you just finished the break-in, how many tanks of fuel do you have through it, what temps are you running and what are you using to test the temps? What are your needle settings? What fuel are you using and what Glow Plug?

Thanks in advance? I'll let you know where I'm at after finishing my break-in today.

[khudzik]

Just broke mine in today whata nice truck! Hey what cooling head is that on your motor?

That's not the stock engine. I had a spare brand new GRP .21 silver head laying around, so I put it in off the get go. Didn't even start the stock engine. The GRP is nice, such a shame they don't make them anymore.

[DoubleTrouble]

No official thread for this truck yet? Maybe this will become one. Anyway I invite everyone to ask questions, share their thoughts, experiences and observations on this great offering from Losi. I got an RTR as a birthday present a couple of weeks ago, that truggy is an absolute blast.

http://i654.photobucket.com/albums/uu263/overdriverc/MyRTR003.jpg

http://i654.photobucket.com/albums/uu263/overdriverc/MyRTR006.jpg
great lookin RTR...speaking of RTR's....i got a new 8T RTR Truggy with 427 engine...trying to breakin but have had many issues with starting it...and now it appears the OWB has failed as it just spins the spinstart and the engine does not turn over!!
and I only have 1 tank of fuel threw it...now this?! my question is What causes these bearings to fail??
any help would be greatly apprfeciayed! Thanks.

[dnebout]

KHUDZIK,

I thought we all had GRP motors in our Losi Trucks. What does GRP stand for. Is it a manufacturer name or just a Losi name for the model of the motor?

[khudzik]

GRP stands for Gandini Racing Production, based in Italy, Losi is partnered with them.

[dnebout]

GRP stands for Gandini Racing Production, based in Italy, Losi is partnered with them.

Thanks for the answer. So are they no longer producing motors as you mentioned earlier or are they just not producing the .21?

[khudzik]

Their factory in Italy burned down to the ground a few months ago. I think they're back to making tires but they are done with engines, at least for the time being.

[dnebout]

Ok got it. So is this .28 454 is a GRP motor?

[khudzik]

No, it's not. From what I know the 454 is made by SH for Losi and is basically a Losi version of LRP .28 Spec3. Which in turn is an excellent engine. Either way you look at it the RTR is an unbelievable package for the money.

[hdcruzer]

IMO the Losi motors are garbage. I dont care who makes them. There are three of us at local track that have them the 454s. Me being one of them. One runs good but was changed over to a turbo head the day it was bought. Me and the other guy that bought them have had nothing but problems. both were broken in correctly. Hes already blown one, losi replaced it. The new one he received after being broke in wont keep a tune for doo doo . Mine has had 2 and half gallons of gas ran through it. When it runs it runs great. Thats the problem, when it runs....... It wont keep a tune neither. 6 or seven guys that race all the time with plenty of experience with all motors have not been able to tune it neither. Runs good for a tank and then back to not running again. If your gonna buy a Losi dont buy an RTR. Do yourself a favor and buy the roller and put a good motor and electrics in it. Youll be very happy then...... Had to vent.......

[Kicker]

hdcruzer, I would have to agree with you. My 454 started life well and on or about 3 gallons of fuel later the engine just started giving me a headache. I took the engine apart because others was saying i had a airleak which i thought was true because of the issues i was seeing. When i took it apart i discovered that o-rings where being pinched and cracked, front bearing was trashed and i also noticed that the piston had a grove in it from one of the ports. To say the least the engine was trashed. top that off with the poo poo servos that came with the rtr this will be the last RTR i will buy from losi. However i will pick up a RR and not have a issue with that cause i will be able to pick my engine and the servos. After the dallors i spent on the rtr and replacement parts, i could have gotten a RR and started life alot easier with the parts that will last.

[hdcruzer]

Yea Kicker, If I had it to do over again I would have bought a roller. The only thing that really makes the rtr a good deal is the receiver and control. Ive had servo problems also. Although beleive it or not Ive had real good luck with Jr 650. Still running it, and that was even running it a whole day with servo saver tightened all up. Got to admit though the truggy itself is indistructable..........

[XenfinityX]

I just got into the sport and the local hobby shop was selling this RTR 2.0 T for 600. He said its been here so long he just wants it out the store so i grabbed it and i been thru 2 servos the clutch shoes flew off and the thing runs good if u dont try and punch it off the start. It just boggs down and kills. I hope that issue stops after about 20 more tanks i been thru 15 already. If anyone has a fix for the bogging down that would be nice..Anyway i love the RC action for being so new i guess.I had a Rustler before this one and that thing runs like a clock.. I guess i just got a lil dissappointed with these issues.

[legacy2005]

How did everyone break their engines in? using the stand/idle method or driving? I just picked one of these up and would like to get the most out of the engine, without the troubles people have seen to be having.

[legacy2005]

Mainly plan to use this for 1/8 truggy racing. Any engines/mods that people may recommend?

[welderguy91]

Well I have had my losi 8ight T 2.0 rtr for about 3 months now. I broke it in on 8 of stand and idle. It has a little less then 2 gallons on it. It was running good till tonite. I was running in a open parken lot with a budy doing some speed runs. Then it just sudenly stoped. When it happened I knew what had happen to it. I found this when I took the black plate off I found this. Broken conecting rod. Anyone else have this problem?

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj150/1_bad_rc_er/Losi%208ight-t/104_0859.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj150/1_bad_rc_er/Losi%208ight-t/104_0862.jpg

[legacy2005]

ouch. did it go out of tune and run lean? looks like some serious metal failure

[welderguy91]

ouch. did it go out of tune and run lean? looks like some serious metal failure

It was never ran had or lean. I broke it in then raced it a few weekend, because it was late in the season I didn't push it or run hard. Yea. Im gonna call losi tomorrow and see what they say. I have a feeling they will do nothing.

[hdcruzer]

Worst thing you can do to a Truggy open parking lot, speed runs. There not geared for long runs at high speed...... But Losi has pretty good custumer service they might replace it for tou....

[legacy2005]

Got all the batterys charged and tried to run it. I cant seem to get the engine to run. it will run for 10-30 secs and then cut out. not quite sure what is going on, this was on the factory settings for the carb. tried leaning it out and it ran for 1 min then cut out, not sure what to do. All ready killed 2 batteries in the start box, recharging them and will try again.

[Big Red]

Did you try to drain the unburnt fuel from the pipe? I would than pre heat the head with a heat gun or hair dryer if you don't have heat gun. If you are still breaking the motor in I would turn up the idle screw and as it breaks in turn the idle down. You will have to drain the pipe while it is breaking in. You will be suprised at how much fuel stays in the pipe while it is breaking in. Also you may have to check the glow plug.

[legacy2005]

picking up 2 fresh batterys to use in the starter box as the 2 ive been using seem to go dead way to soon and are getting really hot. ill try cranking up the idle, using a new plug and see if there is any fuel left in the pipe been trying to drain it.

[Big Red]

picking up 2 fresh batterys to use in the starter box as the 2 ive been using seem to go dead way to soon and are getting really hot. ill try cranking up the idle, using a new plug and see if there is any fuel left in the pipe been trying to drain it.

The pre heat helps alot also. I have burnt up one starter box wheel because it it so hard to crank when it is cold. I have also puchased an ofna adapter so you can hook the starter box right up to a car jump starter and that has never let me down yet.

[legacy2005]

ive got a heater fan i plan to use to heat the car/engine. Also picked up some new 3k batteriers. I think some of it may be the whole starter box issue. not really used to using one as the rustler has its own electric start and the mgt has the starting pistol.

[Big Red]

ive got a heater fan i plan to use to heat the car/engine. Also picked up some new 3k batteriers. I think some of it may be the whole starter box issue. not really used to using one as the rustler has its own electric start and the mgt has the starting pistol.

YA I hear ya I have five rustlers myself but it was time to move up. To be honest with you I use the adapter with the box. I purchased the jump starter from pep boys for $60.00 bucks and the adapter for $7.00 bucks about the same for two good stick batteries and could use to start anything car, boat, snow mobil anything. just an idea.

[dnrcustoms]

ive got a heater fan i plan to use to heat the car/engine. Also picked up some new 3k batteriers. I think some of it may be the whole starter box issue. not really used to using one as the rustler has its own electric start and the mgt has the starting pistol.

I hear ya on the starter box deal, I kinda had a few issues figuring mine out too. Once you learn propper techniqe. I think it is a no brainer.. I am still a few starts away from that!!

[Big Red]

I hear ya on the starter box deal, I kinda had a few issues figuring mine out too. Once you learn propper techniqe. I think it is a no brainer.. I am still a few starts away from that!!

It took me awhile to figure out to push down on the glow plug igniter and just let the chassis flex. I've had other buggy I used to push down on the wing to engauge the box.

[legacy2005]

ya i was hoping i could get it figured out today and get at least a gallon ran in it. there is a race tomorrow i would have liked to attend but it doesnt look like its going to happen.

[Big Red]

ya i was hoping i could get it figured out today and get at least a gallon ran in it. there is a race tomorrow i would have liked to attend but it doesnt look like its going to happen.



It took me awhile to just relax and figure it out. I used to get all pissed off but that doesn't help at all. And the forum is a great place to get tips and tricks. I also live in socal so I get to see alot of racing and that helps. So like I said just take your time and it will all benifit you in the end.

Rich

[dnrcustoms]

It took me awhile to figure out to push down on the glow plug igniter and just let the chassis flex. I've had other buggy I used to push down on the wing to engauge the box.



Ya, I hear ya on the pushing on the wing. Thats how I first tried to get mine going. Felt like an idiot for about ten minutes!! Its all good now. I did have to adjust my starter box though.

[legacy2005]

well after charging the new starter batteries and using a heater to warm the engine along with a new plug and tweeking the needles a bit i managed to get it to do its idle break in. ran 5 tanks of fuel threw it on idle then took it out and did some runs up and down the street to get some actual mileage on it. it runs fine for about 1/2 a tank then it starts getting hot quick. so i think a little tuning is needed i think the bottom end is fat and the top end is lean causing the overheating.

[gas-man]

Do you have a part number for this?

The pre heat helps alot also. I have burnt up one starter box wheel because it it so hard to crank when it is cold. I have also puchased an ofna adapter so you can hook the starter box right up to a car jump starter and that has never let me down yet.

[Big Red]

Do you have a part number for this?

YA, Right here The one I use is OFNA Part# 92569 I think they also have one you can hard wire to the box itself.
javascript:MyHtmlWindow('images/electrical/EL-92569-wires-BIG.jpg',680,540)

[gas-man]

So it looks like all it is, is battery clamps with timiya plugs wired to the end ? You use two of them? Hook start to a 12V battery or source?
thanks

[Big Red]

So it looks like all it is, is battery clamps with timiya plugs wired to the end ? You use two of them? Hook start to a 12V battery or source?
thanks

No, I just use one of them. I leave one battery hooked up and hook the adapter to other wire from the motor. I have a 12 volt battery pack/ jump starter I carry around in my truck. I hook it up and it works great for me. I've used it to start three trucks all day long with plenty of power.

[legacy2005]

well.. took it out to a local practice session and within the first 5 mins the RR shock bottom stripped out and i lost the spring/spring cup.

time to find replacement parts for it.

Those that race their 8T's what tires are you using? The local track is hard packed dirt and the stock tires were really loose on it.

[Big Red]

well.. took it out to a local practice session and within the first 5 mins the RR shock bottom stripped out and i lost the spring/spring cup.

time to find replacement parts for it.

Those that race their 8T's what tires are you using? The local track is hard packed dirt and the stock tires were really loose on it.

The shock ends coming off is pretty common. I lost mine on the first jump I hit.

One of the tracks I spend most of my time at (Thunder Alley RC Raceway) Is very hard packed clay and the tires work great when it is wet but when it starts to dry out I loose a lot of traction.

[legacy2005]

The shock ends coming off is pretty common. I lost mine on the first jump I hit.

One of the tracks I spend most of my time at (Thunder Alley RC Raceway) Is very hard packed clay and the tires work great when it is wet but when it starts to dry out I loose a lot of traction.

are you still using the stock tires or have you found others?

[Big Red]

are you still using the stock tires or have you found others?

I'm still using the stock tires but they don't have much life left so I am going to start looking and asking. I see alot of guys running AKA but I'm not sure what compound they are make of. I have a big race at my local track this weekend and I'll check with the pros and see what they recommend for the hard pack and I'll post back to you.

[legacy2005]

well managed to finally get my shocks back together after them pulling out at the first track day.

also managed to find a set of tires:http://www.prolineracing.com/products/Hole_Shot_LPR_3_7_Off_Road_Tires_Mounted_on_LPR-324-106.html
going to try them out this weekend and see how they work..gotta be better then almost bald stockers


also picked up a blank set of yellow rims that ill pick up some tires for.

[Big Red]

well managed to finally get my shocks back together after them pulling out at the first track day.

also managed to find a set of tires:http://www.prolineracing.com/products/Hole_Shot_LPR_3_7_Off_Road_Tires_Mounted_on_LPR-324-106.html
going to try them out this weekend and see how they work..gotta be better then almost bald stockers


also picked up a blank set of yellow rims that ill pick up some tires for.

I'm going to pick up a set of AKA City Blocks and try them
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_26_58/products_id/37044/n/AKA-Racing-Pre-Mounted-City-Block-1-8-Truggy-Tires-Soft-2

[LVBaja]

Great choice Big Red. You won't be disappointed with the soft Cityblocks. They'll last a long time at Thunder Alley also.

[rock]

is this truck fast

[khudzik]

is this truck fast
You be the judge, here are two Losi truggies battling it out:
Losi 8ight-T 2.0 Casual Off-Road Racing (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X52K3oQwjts)

[ncstater6]

what glow plug would you uses with a .28 454 is a GRP motor

[lomdel]

I bought a set of Losi 8ight-T Rear Arm Guards (LOSA1724), but they don't fit the rear arms of my RTR without some modification. I had to dremel a flat section and drill a new screw hole to make them fit. They are labelled for the Truggy, but seems to be designed only for the Buggy. This normal?

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/lomdel/040120102072.jpg

[nitrojunkie]

finances force sale of toys at the moment... losi 8ight t 2.0 rtr, has never seen dirt.. 5 tanks threw the 454... recently had to replace rod... bought brand new dynamite mach .21 while i was waiting for parts for the 454... throttle servo replaced with spectrum 821... very low miles on everything... complete rtr with 2 new brand new motors... i have over $1000.00 into this... $700.00 or best u ship

[l3asher]

I bought a set of Losi 8ight-T Rear Arm Guards (LOSA1724), but they don't fit the rear arms of my RTR without some modification. I had to dremel a flat section and drill a new screw hole to make them fit. They are labelled for the Truggy, but seems to be designed only for the Buggy. This normal?

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd224/lomdel/040120102072.jpg

Tha arm guards were made for the 1.0 not the 2.0.

[Token]

what glow plug would you uses with a .28 454 is a GRP motor

GRP don make engines anymore I dont think thats why Losi went with Orion I think.....

454 is I think made by dynmite.......

Dynamite Platimun Series Standard Glow Plug (#3 - Hot)
Dynamite McCoy #59 Hot Glow Plug (2)

These should do.........

[eurofocus]

Just wondering if there is a road tire/rim combo for the truggy just for parking lot racing so I can keep my stock treads fresh for the track/offroad.

[ggdigital]

I am off to a bad start with mt brand new 8-t 2.0 rtr. Come to finde out while running the first tank of fuel at idel I heard a loud tinking that should not be. there were no bearings for the cluch and was missing a shoe. I am very disapointed in the lack of quality. I brought the car to the HS that I bought it from and they fixed it for me at no cost. It is a very good HS and that is why I go there, but why should they have to FIX a brand new truggy? Has any one else experance this?

[ggdigital]

I purchased the ofna starting box because you can put a large 12volt in it

[eurofocus]

My 8t 2.0 is only a few weeks old and works like a charm, had starting issues at first but these motors are known to be tight until broken in... other than that it's been great! As for the starter box, I find the one that comes with the rtr kit is sufficient enough to start it with two 7.2v batteries.

[nofr1ends]

Are these truggys good or what? I just bought one yesterday... Im hesitant to run it.

[Batman]

I put a 12v battery in mine without any trouble.

[lomdel]

Why buy it when you don't wanna run it? These truggies are lean, mean racing machines that are meant to be thrashed!

[ggdigital]

I put a 12v battery in mine without any trouble.

how did you get it to fit?

[Batman]

I'll try and get a picture of it tonight for you. Mine actually came with the mounting stuff to put the 12V in. I bought the starter box seperately because I got the race roller, but it is the same starter box.

[Token]

That box may be the older box. I used a Gel Cel in the Old Box....

The new box dont fit the Gel Cel...

Needed to Complete
Two (2) 7.2V NiMH Battery Packs or One (1) Losi 14.8V 4S Starter Box Battery (LOSB9821)
Compatible Battery Charger
Phillips Head Screw Driver

[nofr1ends]

Why buy it when you don't wanna run it? These truggies are lean, mean racing machines that are meant to be thrashed!

i bought it to have fun and race man.. I just wanted some peoples opinion that had one before i broke it in and couldnt take it back..... just my .02 :)

[Batman]

Anyone know if you can get the servo adapter for a Hitec without buying the whole throttle linkage kit (part a9168)? Thanks.

[DocHoliday]

http://www.losi.com/Search/Default.aspx?IsNew=True&SortBy=LatestRelease&Page=3


If the hammer didn't fix it? Then it must be an electrical problem........

[lomdel]

The stock metal servo horn adapter that comes with the RTR fits perfectly on the metal output shaft of my Hitec HS-7954SH servos...

[Batman]

Awesome, thanks. That's the exact servo I was going to use too.

[drivernfi]

I have gone through two servos so far and had major starting issues. Moter seems tobe so tight as to cause it not to turn with the rtrs starter box. any ideas?

[Big Red]

I have gone through two servos so far and had major starting issues. Moter seems tobe so tight as to cause it not to turn with the rtrs starter box. any ideas?

Have you tried the Hitec 7955 ? As far as the motor being tight I had to use a heat gun for the first two gallons to pre-heat the motor. Before I started using the heat gun I did burn up a starter box wheel.

Hope this will help.

[lomdel]

I have gone through two servos so far and had major starting issues. Moter seems tobe so tight as to cause it not to turn with the rtrs starter box. any ideas?


These motors are tight on run-in. Heat 'em up a bit and if they get stuck, use a flat-tip driver in a cloth to tap the flywheel loose. It will happen a lot!

[sluggo]

hey guys I am looking at gettting this truggy to get back into the rc world. I have been doing rc for 10 years now but mainly helis and a small hop with rc cars last year. Money is tight so I was looking at the 8t 2.0 to get back into racing at our local club. I have done alot of reading on the truggy so far and seem to read the same thing. Change servos right away, turbo head, change pipe etc. Is this deal worth the money for everything I need to change??? Will the truggy work the way it is ?? I am coool with changing stuff but seems if I change everything out right away I may be better off with a roller.

Is the motor good?
what would it take to make it a roller?
what is the pipe that comes with the kit?
will the servos last for a gallon or 2?
will the start box last better the the other losi boxes?
does the truggy work as good as a roller will or close to it?
also has anyonme tried the steel flywheel with this motor? I sued it on my 8ight buggy and it worked very well

Thanks for any help and info guys! I know you get asked the same thing over and over again hehehe!

[lomdel]

The stock metal servo horn adapter that comes with the RTR fits perfectly on the metal output shaft of my Hitec HS-7954SH servos...

Sorry, my fault! It does not! The stock servo horn adapter fits 23t output shafts and the Hitec accepts a 22t. Only way to make Hitec works is to use the servo horns that come with the servo. The HS-7954SH include a blue alumnium steering horn. Adapt hole sizes and you are good to go.

[daniedelport]

What is the best way to lighten our truck. How much should we then be able to shave off.

[lomdel]

I would also like to lighten my truck somewhat. Please reply with suggestions!
I also would like to know the exact (ml) capacity of the stock fuel tank with the insert and without.

[l3asher]

I would also like to lighten my truck somewhat. Please reply with suggestions!
I also would like to know the exact (ml) capacity of the stock fuel tank with the insert and without.

150 with 155 without.

[Token]

What lighten your truck? Wheel time and practice is all you need...IMO

[sckootter]

WHATS UP GUYS NEW TO THE FORUM. i HAVE HAD MY TRUGGY RTR FOR ABOUT THREE WEEKS RUNNING IT WHEN i CAN. I would like to know what the running temps should be after youtune the needles. I am runnin about 210 to 230 degrees F. It runs great but I feel it could have more power but I dont want to lean it out to much. It is still putting out alot of smoke and I have almost two gallons ran threw the engine right now. One other thing I noticed is when I turn it over with my finger when it get to TDC it kind of has two little tight spot like when the crank is turning over to start pulling the piston down. It is kinda hard to explain I was just wondering (if you understand what I am talking about) is this normal or should it be smooth when the crank makes the swing to pull the piston down. It still has pinch up top of the sleeve also. Thank you for your time and any info would be really helpful.

[cory-spradlin]

Thanke to whoever set this thread up. I have been looking for a good 2.0 thread. also if anyone is interested, I have created a group on facebook where we can post pics, videos, and whatever else we want. If you want to check it out........ its called Nitro RC Racing


http://www.facebook.com/rcdriver?v=wall#!/group.php?gid=378992226008

[cory-spradlin]

968 I have another body with a camera mount on it.

[Token]

WHATS UP GUYS NEW TO THE FORUM. i HAVE HAD MY TRUGGY RTR FOR ABOUT THREE WEEKS RUNNING IT WHEN i CAN. I would like to know what the running temps should be after youtune the needles. I am runnin about 210 to 230 degrees F. It runs great but I feel it could have more power but I dont want to lean it out to much. It is still putting out alot of smoke and I have almost two gallons ran threw the engine right now. One other thing I noticed is when I turn it over with my finger when it get to TDC it kind of has two little tight spot like when the crank is turning over to start pulling the piston down. It is kinda hard to explain I was just wondering (if you understand what I am talking about) is this normal or should it be smooth when the crank makes the swing to pull the piston down. It still has pinch up top of the sleeve also. Thank you for your time and any info would be really helpful.

are you taking the temp with temp gauge or with the radio?

[cory-spradlin]

I never use a temp guage. The DX3S system temp is not accurate at all. I use water to tune my engines to temp. It is reliable and easy.

[sckootter]

whats up guys I am using a temp gun. all I really want to know is what the engines run temp is after break in.

[cory-spradlin]

I use water to temp my 454 out. It stays around 250 degrees. Runs like a dream. I took all telemetry off the car. Speed is not practical, and temp was never right. Battery was good, but I damaged my reciever so I opted for the cheaper sr300. Your 454 should run at arount 250-265. I would not go by what the book says.

[sluggo]

anyone try a jp3 with the 454? was wondering if it will work as good as the re11 with the turbo head???

Thanks

[Token]

I use water to temp my 454 out. It stays around 250 degrees. Runs like a dream. I took all telemetry off the car. Speed is not practical, and temp was never right. Battery was good, but I damaged my reciever so I opted for the cheaper sr300. Your 454 should run at arount 250-265. I would not go by what the book says.

Thats hot.

[madweazl]

I picked up the truggy 2 weeks ago. I swapped the servos, turbo button, and RE11 in at the time of purchase. Idled 1 tank, putted around with 3 others and threw it on the track for the first qualifier. Leaned out a bit more on the second qual and then again for the main. Truck was slightly rich on top and bottom but made good power. Took the TQ and win (combined electric/nitro of all skill levels present).

Setup was 100% box stock (tires included). The truck is very capable.

I saw a lot of posts concerning the engine. I'm confident ALL of the issues were tuning related. If your engine has a bog, it is too rich because this engine has plenty of power. Temp wise, I've been anywhere from 230-275! The more tanks that go through it the cooler it runs. It has about a half gallon on it now and will get a full on race tune this weekend. I expect temps to be around 245.

The only issue I had was with a shock stand off. I pulled it out of the car and set it on the bench at the track and it broke. Not dropped, not hit, just set down and it broke. Must have been assembled way to tight. No big deal, replaced the part and raced the crap out of it.

The triple pictured isnt small, the 454 cleared it with ease (vehicles are about 12' off the ground at the z-pex).

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy72/madweazl/truggy.jpg?t=1269314826

[Mcurcio]

measurement need front bearing. Is 7x19x6 ? Part LOSR2215
thanks, sorry for my English

[Mcurcio]

Front Bearing 454

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

measurement need front bearing. Is 7x19x6 ?
thanks, sorry for my English
__________________

LOSR2215

[Team Anaconda]

I have learned alot here keep up the great work.

[Lapper]

Bought my RTR from RC Planet for 800 bucks with a few extras. At the time they where including a quart of 30% O'Donnell nitro, glow starter, charger comparable to a Prophet sport, and two 3300 batteries for the starter box. Not bad. I needed DSM anyway. When I recieved it one of the solder points on the starter motor had come undone. No biggie. Broke out the soldering gun and had it fixed in no time. When I finally got to break it in it was tight...real tight. So tight that I burned up my starter wheel pretty good and got stuck at top dead center. It was about 70F out and I did't warm it up with a heat gun first so thats kinda my fault. Was way too rich for my area so I had to lean it in alot. If I was a complete newbie that part might have made things a lil difficult. Then she fires up and I run a few tanks through it on the box(slightly rich). Then I throw it on the ground for a tank of gas of 1/2 throttle laps. Let it cool and go to start it and the flywheel is spinning freely. Went to G Force my LHS and grabbed a flywheel and collet since the old one got burned up. All I needed was the collet but ended up buying the flywheel too cuz Losi doesn't sell them seperately. Got back to the track fixed the collet. Broke it in. FINALLY I get to run the track with it. This is when I FELL IN LOVE!!! OMG this car basically drives itself. Handles turns like a dream. Always seems to keep you straight and "find" the line. Leaps huge doubles in a single bound. A VERY forgiving car. Fast too OMG is this thing quick. After weeks of running and tuning I ran it a lil hard and busted a shock standoff. When I went to make sure the other one was tight it just fell apart. So I picked some up. Fixed it and have been back out to enjoy it some more. The point is. These cars are certainly not "maintainance free" and working on them is a labor of love. You have to enjoy wrenching on them as much as driving them. or at least close to it;) I love this hobby and I certainly love the Losi 8ight T 2.0. Cheers!!!

[madweazl]

The Losi collets can be purchased individually, part #LOSA9376

[Lapper]

Thank You. Definately good to know.:rolleyes:

[eurofocus]

Alright so I called Horizon Hobby in regards to my rims wearing as they rub the front suspension arms (trailing side) which they had not heard of this issue. So they gave me Losi's number direct, got an answering machine and left a message. My local hobby shop told me this is a known issue with this truggy and that there is a revised version of the rim, so I wa hoping Losi could do something for me. Either way, the truggy's been great and so has HH's support as I recently got a replacement belt for the bump box at no charge. Question is, has anyone else seen this problem with the rims? Here's a couple pictures of my truggy to show the problem. I had adjusted the throw and everything is good, but this rubbing only occurs on rough terrain where the wheels have play.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e211/euro_zx5/RC/IMG_4232.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e211/euro_zx5/RC/IMG_4230.jpg

[sluggo]

Check your throw again and make sure it is not hitting. Also I have read that some people are adding these http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA3532 which will help alot. It is a known prob with the losi rims. I think aka rims will not do this but I can be wrrong.

[eurofocus]

Ya I think i'll try the extended hubs, kinda disappointing this is the case with the stock rims though. Thanks for the reply!

[madweazl]

Hadnt even noticed that but mine does it as well. Looks like you loose a considerable amount of travel (about 3/8") preventing the inner bead from contacting the a-arm.

[eurofocus]

That's exactly it, the steering radius is severely reduced when you tone down the steering travel, so it's a losing battle. I'll pickup the wider wheel hexes tomorrow and post an update.

[sluggo]

I was over checking out my buddies 8t 2.0 RR last night and it does it as well even with aka tires. Seems to get worse as you get the losi slop that we all love :p

[eurofocus]

And my wear is only from backyard and park bashing/jumping with only a full gallon through it, so it hasn't even been to the track yet. Good thing I saw this now so I can try and come to a resolution. I'll pick the longer hexes today and post an update after I test them out.

[sluggo]

Picked up my 8t 2.0 rtr today. Everythiing looks great and no broken parts out of the box. One nice little thing is losi ships there new rtr's with the updated brake pads installed.

hope to start breakin it in next weekend after I chaange out the steering servo. I am going to move the stock steering servo to thhe throttle. I think it should more then do the job there.

[Neobart]

Mine does rub as well, but it doesn't affect the turning radius so I've left it alone. 10+ gallons through my 8T and it hasn't been a problem.

[eurofocus]

Alright, I played around with the radio and fine tuned the servo's travel... i've got it nearly perfect. Aside from the slight slop, the wheels work really well now. I did order the 2mm hexes to alleviate the situation though. I also confirmed at my local hobby shop that the AKA rims have no interference whatsoever; the Losi and Proline rims both had interference touching the arms with the inevitable wheel slop, so I know which set i'll be running this upcoming season. Just giving a heads up to anyone who's been following my situation or who has similar questions.

[sluggo]

Mine does rub as well, but it doesn't affect the turning radius so I've left it alone. 10+ gallons through my 8T and it hasn't been a problem.

10 gallons is that on a rtr motor is it a RR?

[Neobart]

RR I have a few mills that run in it, depending on the track.

[sluggo]

RR I have a few mills that run in it, depending on the track.

ok cool, I was wondering and hoping it was on a rtr motor:p some people have been saying they are only good for 2 gallons or so then they are junk.

[Neobart]

Probably people who can't tune to safe their life. :) The 350 and 454 are very tight and needs som TLC when breaking in. If you take it slow they will last a long time. The 454 in my XXL still has pretty brutal pinch after more than a gallon.

[sluggo]

Probably people who can't tune to safe their life. :) The 350 and 454 are very tight and needs som TLC when breaking in. If you take it slow they will last a long time. The 454 in my XXL still has pretty brutal pinch after more than a gallon.

Cool thanks, I stripped the truggy down today to see if I could find anything wrong and it is perfect so far.

[luckypunk]

Howdy from Idaho
Decided to get back in the sport after about 15yrs or so. My boys 4th Birthday is this weekend & I wanted something that we could tinker with together.

So I got him the perfect birthday present..

We love this thing, but is it safe to start leaning it out for speed after about 1Kcc of nitrotane 20% sport?

http://i43.tinypic.com/1z3qwyd.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/20fq17c.jpg

[Neobart]

It's not ready until most of the pinch is gone, otherwise your can snap the conrod very easily.

Best way to check is to take the glow plug out and turn the engine over with your hand, if it sticks very hard at TDC it needs more time to break in. If it stick just a little it will be fine to start leaning out.

[luckypunk]

Thanks-

that sounds like just the pro-tip I was looking for. :)

I can get it to turn over by using an additional finger on the top of the flywheel, but i would think it is still considered too pinchy for good speed. I'll run a few more tanks through & check again

[eurofocus]

It took my 8t2.0 almost half a gallon before it was a breeze to start with no pinch.

[Jato3.3NJ]

I keep hearing you guys use the word Pinch what exactly is that, I'm new to the RC world and will be receiving my 8ight t 2.0 rtr tomorrow via fed ex so i would like to know as much as possible

[eurofocus]

A brand new nitro motor will need to be broken in, and these larger motors in the 8ight buggy and truggy have a tight motor that will loosen and start easier as more tanks go through it.

[seattlelife22]

Hello fellas,
i just got my losi 8ight truggy today and i was wondering if i need a fail safe in the truck?
Is there any ultra top secrets to breaking this in? thanks for the help..

[seattlelife22]

Oh sorry one more question can i use the 12 volt battery like in the ofnas and other boxes for the stock losi starter box instead of two nimh batteries?

[Lapper]

You don't need to buy a failsafe because it's already built into the 2.4 Spektrum reciever. After turning on your controller turn your truck on (motor off). Then turn the controller off and see which way the throttle servo goes. Whether it applies the brakes or gives it throttle. If it opens the throttle follow the instructions in the manual to rebind with the correct settings. This feature will kick in if the voltage drops too low or if the reciever loses signal from the controller. As far as 12v in the starter box I'm not sure and don't want to give you bad info. But curious myself...lol. Hope it helps.:D

[Neobart]

Oh sorry one more question can i use the 12 volt battery like in the ofnas and other boxes for the stock losi starter box instead of two nimh batteries?

If you can find one that fits, sure no problem.

[seattlelife22]

Thank you for your time...i am stoked. i have owned traxxas and now its time for a change. this is a whole new world..

[Jato3.3NJ]

I'm coming from Traxxas stuff as well and they were fun, but it was a great move to switch over to LOSI, it kinda feels like my traxxas stuff were just toys, this 8ight t 2.0 rtr is like a car. I haven't opened up the box just yet to the rtr or the roller because of crazy work schedule but this week I will begin the break-in

[sluggo]

Dude get them boxes opened up man !!!!!!!!

Did the breakin on my rtr today and everything went great. Hope my pipe and turbo head get here soon:D

[eurofocus]

Dude get them boxes opened up man !!!!!!!!

Did the breakin on my rtr today and everything went great. Hope my pipe and turbo head get here soon:D

Which pipe are you going to be running? I'm looking at my options for my rtr as well...

[305M3]

I use a 12V gel cell in the RTR box. I had to put a piece of plastic in the bottom so the battery wouldn't fall out.

The 12V provides great power and lasts forever. I use the same gel cell for my 2.0 T and buggy.

Enjoy.

[seattlelife22]

Yea i just installed mine i had the bottom piece that came with it for the 12 volt. Does anyone know what the stock reciever batt needs to be charged at i think it is one amp. i dont know though.

[sluggo]

Which pipe are you going to be running? I'm looking at my options for my rtr as well...

I got the re11 to start with, I may pick up the re10 as well.

[sluggo]

Yea i just installed mine i had the bottom piece that came with it for the 12 volt. Does anyone know what the stock reciever batt needs to be charged at i think it is one amp. i dont know though.

ya 1 to 1 1/2 apms is fine but I wouldnt go any higher then that.

[Lapper]

Dynamite Recommends charging 600mAh or lower packs at 1 amp and larger packs at 2 amps. The only thing they recommend charging at 4 amps is 1500 and up sub-C car packs. Personally I only charge my Losi 1400 Hump pack at 1 amp. I THINK I remember reading somewhere that charging at higher amps will diminish the amount of cycles you can put the battery through but I may be wrong about that. Hope it helps !! :D

[sluggo]

Dynamite Recommends charging 600mAh or lower packs at 1 amp and larger packs at 2 amps. The only thing they recommend charging at 4 amps is 1500 and up sub-C car packs. Personally I only charge my Losi 1400 Hump pack at 1 amp. I THINK I remember reading somewhere that charging at higher amps will diminish the amount of cycles you can put the battery through but I may be wrong about that. Hope it helps !! :D

ya normally you only want to charge a pack at 1c meaning 1000mah would be 1 amp and so on. Sub C can handle alot more but as you said it will shorten there life span. These small cells in the hump packs can handle more but there is no need to stress them so I only use 1amp and keep a few extra packs on hand.

[Neobart]

I charge nihm rx packs at no more than 800mA often as low as 600mA. No need to stress the cells for peak voltage what you want is capacity, and you get that with a lower setting. And longer life from the pack as well.

[eurofocus]

I got the re11 to start with, I may pick up the re10 as well.

Right on, I think I want to get the re10 for more bottom end grunt. Do you take your 8t to the track at all?

[seattlelife22]

For some reason it does not say anywhere is the manual on what to charge it at thanks guys.

[sluggo]

Right on, I think I want to get the re10 for more bottom end grunt. Do you take your 8t to the track at all?

Not yet our track just opened up so I haven't had time yet but I will be racing it this year. Ya that is why I am going to grab a re10 as well. That way I have both ranges of pipes to tune with for different tracks.

[sluggo]

Well the breakin is pretty much done now. I burned almost half a gallon now doing the heat cycle method. The truggy never missed a beat and the start box worked perfect even with 2 old 7.4 volt 1500mah packs. Going to switch it over to a gel cell 12volt though later this week. I did preheat the motor to atleast 190f everytime and will keep doing so for the life of the motor.

The 454 has a ton of punch even when it is still really rich and still tight, hoping it will drop its nuts buy the end of this gallon then we will see how it really does out on the track. Also hope my pipe and turbo head is here this week. Even running as good as it did it never got over 230f on a temp gun. Oh ya anyone having trouble getting a good reading out of there installed temp sensor I found if you spin it so the small sensor is to the back of the head it will give a more accurate reading. Mine was never off more then 10deg this way. Never perfect but gives you a good idea on where your temps are.

[seattlelife22]

Ok so i was breaking the truggy in today and let me tell you what a pain but it is all worth it. i finally got it running and for life of me i could not get it to 200. i put aluminium foil around it and a sock over that and ran about three tanks and only could get it two aobut 160 with a temp gun not the dx3s. it was very windy and about 50 degrees. so what do you guys think i should do?

[Losi/Joey]

i would try to get it out the wind, thats most likely your problem. the outside temp shouldnt be a big deal. how rich is it right now? how much fuel is coming out the stinger.

[seattlelife22]

Quite a bit enought to have a pubble after idleing a bit. it is at the stock settings and i was told not to move them until at least 5-6 tanks.

[Losi/Joey]

well heres the thing. As for factory settings are good to start with sometimes you have to do a little tweeking to get it right. Not every engine is exactly the same so sometimes you have to mess with the needles slightly. Im not saying to start going at it like a mad man, just maybe an hour counter clockwise on the low end. you should be getting fuel to come out but not a puddle after a short idle.

[seattlelife22]

Do you mean clock wise on the high speed needle. counter richens it. i could be wrong.

[Losi/Joey]

Im sorry, yes clockwise, not counter. wasnt thinking straight. you can do it on either the high side or low side but if you do it on the high side it also leans out the low side simutaniously. start with the high side and see what temps you get. usually an hour on the clock raises temps about 10 to 20 degrees.

[seattlelife22]

cool man thanks... i will see it is suppose to rain for the next ten days so i will keep you posted.

[Losi/Joey]

no problem, hopefully you get some sunshine soon. it would kill me to have to wait ten days, lol. good luck man and have fun

[Lapper]

I noticed that alot of people are buying the turbo head conversion right away. Now I haven't seen this come up yet but if the motor needs to be broken in after this is installed, is it better to install it prior to the original break in or after the motors been run a bit? I haven't heard anyone comment on this either way. I have yet to install mine but cuious all the same. :rolleyes:

[sluggo]

I noticed that alot of people are buying the turbo head conversion right away. Now I haven't seen this come up yet but if the motor needs to be broken in after this is installed, is it better to install it prior to the original break in or after the motors been run a bit? I haven't heard anyone comment on this either way. I have yet to install mine but cuious all the same. :rolleyes:

you can install it before after, it will not effect the breakin and you will not have to break it in again after installing it. If you got one go ahaead and drop it in with the shims that it comes with and go tune for the turbo head. Make sure get the old shims out before installing the new ones.


seattlelife22 160 is way to low, with the temps that low all you are doing is slamming the piston into the tapper iin the sleave. You need to get the motor to at least 200 to 230f. If you havve to lean the low alittle to get it done then lean it out some amounts at a time. Also make sure you are warming the motor before you even put it on the start box. I use a heat gun to get the motor up to 190 to 200 before I even try and start the motor. You motor will love you for it and it will make life alot easier on you as well.

[losidriver]

does anyone have good needle settings for a 454 i live in fl. thanks guys

[sluggo]

does anyone have good needle settings for a 454 i live in fl. thanks guys

Not sure what mine are but just past breakin and both my needles are just below flush. So a good starting point would be flush on both and go from there.

[seattlelife22]

Alright...break in check...Fun on the way after the rain stops. it stoped raining at like 3 and then it dried out and i ran outside and ran 4 half tanks through. now its time to go to the track. Thanks for all the help. there is a huge difference in big blocks and small blocks from the idle to speed and power. i dont know why i didnt buy this from the get go.

[seattlelife22]

what is the turbo button head for? i dont understand what it does and should i invest in it?
its only about 20bucks right?

[Token]

Suppose to be more power and better fuel, a little smoother power band.

[sluggo]

what is the turbo button head for? i dont understand what it does and should i invest in it?
its only about 20bucks right?

It will give you more power, more rpm, lower temps and improved fuel consuption. It is well worth the $20.00. Also upgrade the pipe, the stocker is not very good. I just got the re11 but havee been hearing good and bad about the pipe so I am also going to try a jp3 which seeems to work good on alot of motors.

[seattlelife22]

i was thinking about upgrading to the re11? what is the bad or should i just go with jp3?

[sluggo]

i was thinking about upgrading to the re11? what is the bad or should i just go with jp3?

Just that it robs the motor of top end speed, I have only read that and do not know for sure tell I try it my self. The jp3 works good with any motor but is a fuel hog and with thhe 454 already being a fuel hog it may be thhe wrong choice as well. I just it all depends on what you are looking for.

[seattlelife22]

ok let me know on the re11

[sluggo]

Well I burned a few tanks on the 454 today with the turbo head and re11. Had to retune huge but after getting the motor tuned but still a little fat the motor was rocking. It had a ton of power and never went above 209f. It was cold out today so I am sure that had alot to do with the low temps but it was pulling huge. So far I am really liking this combo but will have to see how it does at the track next week.

[eurofocus]

Well I burned a few tanks on the 454 today with the turbo head and re11. Had to retune huge but after getting the motor tuned but still a little fat the motor was rocking. It had a ton of power and never went above 209f. It was cold out today so I am sure that had alot to do with the low temps but it was pulling huge. So far I am really liking this combo but will have to see how it does at the track next week.

I'm still undecided between the re10 or re11, I want more bottom end grunt... top end doesn't matter to me really. And if the turbo head really makes that much of a difference in temp and runtime i'll throw one on as well.

[sluggo]

ya if you are looking for stump pulling low end I would go with the re10. The re11 still has good low end with the 454 but I did notice I lost a little low end even though it is still rich.

[eurofocus]

Well my RTR's 454 will not tune... i'm hitting 300 degrees F, I have changed the plug, had the lhs tune it, two guys at the track tune it, and no matter what it's still hitting 300F! I'm calling Horizon Hobby this week to ask what can be done, it's only used under two gallons and I have yet to get a smooth run from it. I am planning on running the re-11 or re-10 pipe, and have considered the turbo head, but this is ridiculous. If I do have an air leak, will Horizon Hobby warranty the motor perhaps?

[sluggo]

is the motor hitting 300 on a temp gun or your radio? Sounds like to me you have a air leak. It is simple to seal the motor up (I did mine before I even put fuel in it) Get some high temp silcone. Put a small bead around the backplate, carb neck, and needle stem. There is a vid on youtube that shows you how.

Also to hit 300 you would have to be lean on your needles, mine is running no more then 225 today but still alittle rich. Both my needles are just under flush but not sure on how many turns out that is. I have read many times that changing to the turbo head and pipe that will also bring the temps down.

What fuel are you using and how much nitro does it have??

[seattlelife22]

I am going to say this. this weekend was the first time i have had fun and laughed at the track in long time. i had a revo and everytime i went out there i broke something. it was such a good time. temps were awesome. i was running alittle rich but who cares when it still had power like it was no ones business. airleaks are a breeze to seal. imo. thanks for everything.

[eurofocus]

is the motor hitting 300 on a temp gun or your radio? Sounds like to me you have a air leak. It is simple to seal the motor up (I did mine before I even put fuel in it) Get some high temp silcone. Put a small bead around the backplate, carb neck, and needle stem. There is a vid on youtube that shows you how.

Also to hit 300 you would have to be lean on your needles, mine is running no more then 225 today but still alittle rich. Both my needles are just under flush but not sure on how many turns out that is. I have read many times that changing to the turbo head and pipe that will also bring the temps down.

What fuel are you using and how much nitro does it have??

I was running rich, lol. And i'm running Sidewinder 20% (20/12) The temps i'm giving are from the telemetry on the radio... I have yet to pick up a temp gun to get a more accurate reading.

[Losi/Joey]

yeah dont go by what the temp says on the controller, because its far from being correct. Invest in a good temp gun and use that to verify your temps. your most likely below 300 degrees its just mis reading like they all do.

[eurofocus]

yeah dont go by what the temp says on the controller, because its far from being correct. Invest in a good temp gun and use that to verify your temps. your most likely below 300 degrees its just mis reading like they all do.

Exactly what i'm hoping... I guess i'll have to get a temp gun on my list on things to get before taking it into the racing season. Anyone know a good writeup/pictorial for rebuilding diffs and overall maintenance on the 8t? Someone posted a decent writeup on these forums for the diff rebuild but had a reply saying it was incomplete and missing steps... i'd like a sure footed guide to maintaining my truck before really driving it into the ground.

[eurofocus]

Alright so I called Horizon Hobby in regards to my rims wearing as they rub the front suspension arms (trailing side) which they had not heard of this issue. So they gave me Losi's number direct, got an answering machine and left a message. My local hobby shop told me this is a known issue with this truggy and that there is a revised version of the rim, so I wa hoping Losi could do something for me. Either way, the truggy's been great and so has HH's support as I recently got a replacement belt for the bump box at no charge. Question is, has anyone else seen this problem with the rims? Here's a couple pictures of my truggy to show the problem. I had adjusted the throw and everything is good, but this rubbing only occurs on rough terrain where the wheels have play.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e211/euro_zx5/RC/IMG_4232.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e211/euro_zx5/RC/IMG_4230.jpg

And an update regarding the stock rims rubbing... well I installed the 2mm wider hexes (LOSA3532) and problem gone. :)

As for my 454 overheating, picked up a temp gun and discovered the onboard temp sensor appears to be giving inaccurate readings... so a replacement sensor is on the way.

[Lapper]

...and that one will be innaccurate too!!! They all are. The only useful part of telemetry to me is the rx voltage... if you don't mind having half the range of the SR300 to have it. On a lighter note...those 2 milli hexes rock...lol.

[seattlelife22]

imo i put the sensor between the head and the crank case and it is only a 3 degree difference. that will be inaccurate too. i put it on loud beep and when it beeps then i look down. i never look at the controller for anything. hope it helps

[eurofocus]

imo i put the sensor between the head and the crank case and it is only a 3 degree difference. that will be inaccurate too. i put it on loud beep and when it beeps then i look down. i never look at the controller for anything. hope it helps

My temps were off by 100 degrees F... lol I just have a bad sensor as far as I can tell.

[Jato3.3NJ]

Love this thing outside of the crappy servo that was shot right out the box from the factory but Horizon took care of me and there customer service is amazing. Heres a few shots!

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg27/jsince80/NITRO%20CARS/CIMG0160.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg27/jsince80/NITRO%20CARS/CIMG0171.jpg
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg27/jsince80/NITRO%20CARS/CIMG0173.jpg

[OZrc]

I can see a problem with that truggy and needs immediate attention..

It's too clean..LOL

The other thing i did was to sell of the shell as i hated the color.
Ended up painting a new one or two.

[Aareen]

Take the interactive tour of the 1/8-scale 8IGHT-T 2.0 RTR for an in-depth view of the innovative features offered by this nitro-powered truggy. The tour includes an overview of the 8IGHT-T 2.0 RTR, detailed information on the truggy's installed electronics and engine, action-packed video footage and an interactive photo gallery.

[sluggo]

Anyone having problems with there shocks leaking?? I have 2 that are so far, I can't see the seals needing to be replaced already. The motor is running awesome with the turbo head and re11 pipe. I have a gallon on it already and it is really starting to scream. It still has a ton of pinch so it can only get better with the next gallon. Nevver temps over 230 to 240 even with thhe tight pinch, so I am hoping with the next gallon the tempps will come down even more and I can lean it out some more.

I mmust say this is a very very tuff truggy, My rx battery came unpluged well full throttle and I had a ver bad run away. After hitting 1 tree 2 houses and 2 fences before I cought it. Not 1 bent or broken part :)

[lkj]

I picked up the truggy 2 weeks ago. I swapped the servos, turbo button, and RE11 in at the time of purchase. Idled 1 tank, putted around with 3 others and threw it on the track for the first qualifier. Leaned out a bit more on the second qual and then again for the main. Truck was slightly rich on top and bottom but made good power. Took the TQ and win (combined electric/nitro of all skill levels present).

Setup was 100% box stock (tires included). The truck is very capable.

I saw a lot of posts concerning the engine. I'm confident ALL of the issues were tuning related. If your engine has a bog, it is too rich because this engine has plenty of power. Temp wise, I've been anywhere from 230-275! The more tanks that go through it the cooler it runs. It has about a half gallon on it now and will get a full on race tune this weekend. I expect temps to be around 245.

The only issue I had was with a shock stand off. I pulled it out of the car and set it on the bench at the track and it broke. Not dropped, not hit, just set down and it broke. Must have been assembled way to tight. No big deal, replaced the part and raced the crap out of it.

The triple pictured isnt small, the 454 cleared it with ease (vehicles are about 12' off the ground at the z-pex).

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy72/madweazl/truggy.jpg?t=1269314826

just wonder where is this track at? since i am in socal too!

[luckypunk]

well crap, how unlucky do you have to be to break a front brake cam

[The Wedge]

I thought I had mine almost broken in, but yesterday after running for about 10 minutes, the car just stopped. I brought it back to the starter box which took me about a minute since I was about 100 yards away to find the flywheel locked as if the engine was brand new. Tried to push it back with a screwdriver and it wouldn't budge. I brought it back to the house to use a heat gun and finally got it moving again and able to start. What could have caused this and is this normal for a newer engine? (I've only run about 12-15 tanks so far).

Also, I noticed yesterday at full throttle the car seems to accelerate but then dies after a second or so. Could this be a throttle servo adjustment? Maybe it's pulling too much?

[Lapper]

Sounds to me like your running that thing too lean. Motor prob had more pinch than usual because it didn't have any lube.

[Dale]

hey guys just a not fly wheel nut came lose flywheel turns. what size is the allen key at the end of the bell gear.

[Tank82]

Hi there I just got a new 8ight-t and was wondering if anyone could give me any pointers for tunnin proper break-in better idele or running ovals also which is a better fuel to run 20% or 30% any info helps thanks

[cdbias]

Check out the "Nitro Off-Road" thread on rctech.net

It has a very informative section called the "Break in Bible".

It's very helpful and will help you understand fuel mixture/settings more than anyone can explain it.

To help answer your question though......I will always idle a tank or two through a motor and then you need to start driving it.

Very slow circles or passes and trying to keep the motor around the 200F mark.

[nitro-rob]

I was doing a quick run today and the steering servo went out in a big way. The truck started to become a little twitchy and didn't make turns well. I brought it in and changed the hump pack since the voltage dropped to around 5v (didn't think it was a big deal) and then restarted it and went out again. Luckily I went to the fenced area of my yard. The truck spontaneously went full throttle and into my patio set.

When the steering servo is plugged in the throttle goes wide open and the steering twitches. This is with two different receivers.

I am debating on getting a hv hitec for it but would likely not run it with a lipo right away and use a hump pack for a little while.

[eurofocus]

I was doing a quick run today and the steering servo went out in a big way. The truck started to become a little twitchy and didn't make turns well. I brought it in and changed the hump pack since the voltage dropped to around 5v (didn't think it was a big deal) and then restarted it and went out again. Luckily I went to the fenced area of my yard. The truck spontaneously went full throttle and into my patio set.

When the steering servo is plugged in the throttle goes wide open and the steering twitches. This is with two different receivers.

I am debating on getting a hv hitec for it but would likely not run it with a lipo right away and use a hump pack for a little while.

I believe i've come to the conclusion the cause to this is low voltage. It happened to me twice, with the stock servos and once after I swapped out the stockers for hitec servos. Both times it happened when I ignored the low battery warning on the radio. Lipo will greatly improve runtime, so will a higher mah nimh battery. I've also read that the spektrum rx's are known for malfunctioning on very low voltage. Other than this quirk, the radio system (tx and rx) works great.

[CrEePeR]

well crap, how unlucky do you have to be to break a front brake cam

Dont feal bad. This happend to me before I even got to start it for the first time. But they shipped me the linkage and a new cam set. I had to relearn my cornering after I got it installed :D

[nitro-rob]

I figured it out. The receivers were transferred from another truck and I reversed the throttle direction and the failsafe position was for the other trucks setup. It 'fixed' itself when I rebinded the receiver during the checkover with losi support. A dumb mistake on my part.

Low voltage happened, though, I ran the truck too long without charging it because I am just doing the break in and have been driving it easy and for a tank at a time.

I love this truck, though. My goodies should come for it this week.

Thank you,

[ATPotter]

hey guys wondering i fyou can help me out.. a noob tuning issue i'm having. I just broke it in not long ago and started tuning it right away.. when i accelerate to full throttle it goes for about 3 seconds at full then bogs and even tries to backfire. Does this mean i'm running it too lean on the HSN? I've tried everything i can think of and nothing seems to work. Thanks

[sluggo]

hey guys wondering i fyou can help me out.. a noob tuning issue i'm having. I just broke it in not long ago and started tuning it right away.. when i accelerate to full throttle it goes for about 3 seconds at full then bogs and even tries to backfire. Does this mean i'm running it too lean on the HSN? I've tried everything i can think of and nothing seems to work. Thanks

ya that sounds lean, bring the hsn back to flush with the brass and tune from there. That should bring you close to where you need to be. Also on the lsn you should be just a little in from flush. Every motor will tune different but that should get you close enough that you can tune a hour here and there.

[ATPotter]

Thanks for your help! I basically just turned it back to stock settings flush with the copper casing around it and seems to be fine.. I turned the lsn in about 5 hours.. it still gives off an excessive amount of exhaust when first accelerating, how much is just right? any pics or videos i can see just to be certain, thanks again.

[jdhammock]

I am brand new to the forum (and RC cars for that matter) and am asking u experts for some help. I recently had a problem with my 2.0T where the flywheel stopped communicating with the piston. I took off the engine and found that the flywheel dug into the collett. I ordered a new flywheel which comes with the collett and replaced the collett and it works great now. The problem is, when the engine is off and i'm rolling the car the piston moves up and down. When the engine is on and I stop the car the engine dies. It was tuned perfectly before I took off the engine. It's almost as if without gear movement the piston won't move. Any thoughts? I'm wondering if I screwed on something too tightly where the flywheel mechanism is fixed to the gears. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks a million!

john

[T-MAN]

Sounds like you have a problem with the clutch. Remove the clutch bell and make sure all the clutch springs are in place and none are missing or broken.

[Token]

I am brand new to the forum (and RC cars for that matter) and am asking u experts for some help. I recently had a problem with my 2.0T where the flywheel stopped communicating with the piston. I took off the engine and found that the flywheel dug into the collett. I ordered a new flywheel which comes with the collett and replaced the collett and it works great now. The problem is, when the engine is off and i'm rolling the car the piston moves up and down. When the engine is on and I stop the car the engine dies. It was tuned perfectly before I took off the engine. It's almost as if without gear movement the piston won't move. Any thoughts? I'm wondering if I screwed on something too tightly where the flywheel mechanism is fixed to the gears. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks a million!

john

Make sure the flywheel is tight. real tight, second when you changed you clutch did you change shoes and springs.

Remember that you will ALWAYS be tuning your car.

[sluggo]

Hey guys just a note if you are looking for a good pipe for the 454 I tried the orion 2013 today. After getting the motor tuned the thing was pulling like mad! It also had great topend with a little over rev. The real nice thing about this pipe is the sound. So if you are looking for a great pipe give it a try. I am hoping to also get a 2057 which will rob a little low end but will increase run time and topend.

[kayl]

I never use a temp guage. The DX3S system temp is not accurate at all. I use water to tune my engines to temp. It is reliable and easy.


How do I do this ?? leaned mine out a little but still need to tune it
I have put a gollon of fuel through it so far.
7 tanks to start with, then slight adjustment on the mixtures and anther 7 tanks before first race.


Second round (1st race neet) I managed to bend a shock arm.
I was able to bend it straight again. In the third race the brake/accelerator servo went and that was me for the day.
I have now ordered titanium shock arms and will replace all of them. Also heard the plastic tops on the shocks break so replacing them with aluminum ones.

I have moved the steering servo to the brake/accelerator position and got a bigger steering servo. Also replaced the steering horn for a aluminum one
For the starter box I have installed a 12v 7Ah battery, been told it should last all day for a race meet without being charged ;)

I have ordered some new rims and grass tires ready for next race, cant wait.
Hope nothing breaks next race hehe.

[eurofocus]

After getting the motor warmed up put a couple drops of water on the cooling head and if it takes more than 6 seconds to evaporate the motor is running too cool (too rich) and if it takes less than a couple seconds it's running too hot (too lean), the ideal evaporation time is 5 seconds. this is all based on the boiling point of water. Some people use their saliva in a pinch to get an idea if they're running too lean at the track if their temp guns aren't handy.

[kayl]

cool thans for that ill give it a try :D

[Klimpen]

WOW.... Do I need to say more?
Me and my brother got us each a 8IGHT-T 2.0 RTR and this is some serious machines.
That 454 is a monster! I only have a Traxxas Revo with a Picco .26 to compare it to but listen to this.
We have built a home made track (http://www.youtube.com/user/Klimpen717#p/u/3/DW-TO7-So0o) and spent hours and hours on there with the Revos.
After TWO laps with the 8IGHT I ran faster lap times then I ever did with the Revo.
The 8IGHT is still only at 60% performance and running VERY rich due to break in.
The track became way to small over night, I can tell you that! We need to expand!

Here's a little clip from the sweet moment of unpacking - clip (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uEpxttxo0UQ)

[Sein]

WOW.... Do I need to say more?
Me and my brother got us each a 8IGHT-T 2.0 RTR and this is some serious machines.
That 454 is a monster! I only have a Traxxas Revo with a Picco .26 to compare it to but listen to this.
We have built a home made track (http://www.youtube.com/user/Klimpen717#p/u/3/DW-TO7-So0o) and spent hours and hours on there with the Revos.
After TWO laps with the 8IGHT I ran faster lap times then I ever did with the Revo.
The 8IGHT is still only at 60% performance and running VERY rich due to break in.
The track became way to small over night, I can tell you that! We need to expand!

Here's a little clip from the sweet moment of unpacking - clip (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uEpxttxo0UQ)

Welcome to Losi brotha! I too was an big fan of my revo (I still am) but once I got the 8t that is when I realized what a race truck really is. It is so much better in every way. I still bash my revo but I race my losi :)

[T-MAN]

Great video, Klimpen. Looks like you're undressing your girlfreind for the first time. LOL

[Klimpen]

Welcome to Losi brotha! I too was an big fan of my revo (I still am) but once I got the 8t that is when I realized what a race truck really is. It is so much better in every way. I still bash my revo but I race my losi :)

I will keep my Revo, as a matter of fact I just ordered a new Picco .26 Max for it.
Now when we are talking engines here. Can you suggest a engine for the 8IGHT-T that cost LESS then $200. I'd rather go for mileage and easy tuning. I only race on a homemade track and it's NARROW.
So a .21 would be right huh?

Great video, Klimpen. Looks like you're undressing your girlfreind for the first time. LOL

No no no, that didn't take 10 minutes+.... :cool:

[Sein]

I will keep my Revo, as a matter of fact I just ordered a new Picco .26 Max for it.
Now when we are talking engines here. Can you suggest a engine for the 8IGHT-T that cost LESS then $200.

This is the .21 I am getting for mine.

http://www.alpha-rc.com/pdt_view.asp?sn=284

It is 209 shipped to your door. Alpha makes 3 different .21 engine but this one is great bottom end with strong top end.

[Sein]

Sunday, I had my first offical race with the 8t. I wasn't really prepared, and had a few things go wrong in quals but all in all I had a blast. It was so crazy because, when I first stepped up on the drivers stand with the other drivers I WAS SHAKING. I could not stop, 1st qualifier was 8mins and I was shaking the whole time, LOL. After, that I was ok I got everything in check :) Ended up taking 2nd in the Bmain, but next race I know I will be in Amain. The wife came down to show support and was able to get some video. I am going to edit it and post on youtube soon.

[Klimpen]

Sunday, I had my first offical race with the 8t. I wasn't really prepared, and had a few things go wrong in quals but all in all I had a blast. It was so crazy because, when I first stepped up on the drivers stand with the other drivers I WAS SHAKING. I could not stop, 1st qualifier was 8mins and I was shaking the whole time, LOL. After, that I was ok I got everything in check :) Ended up taking 2nd in the Bmain, but next race I know I will be in Amain. The wife came down to show support and was able to get some video. I am going to edit it and post on youtube soon.


I know the feeling even though I have not competed in RC. I have the same experience from other sports. Even though you "know" how it works you still get nervous and are about to hm hm in your pants.... :)
I REALLY want to see those videos cut together.
PS: Are you Sein01 from the "other" forum?

[Sein]

PS: Are you Sein01 from the "other" forum?

Yes sir!!:D

[Lapper]

I'm finally realizing that my 454 might be TOO much. At least with the turbo plug and RE10. I'll know for sure once I get an RE11 and give that a shot. I think I'm losing time to wheel spin.

[eurofocus]

I'm finally realizing that my 454 might be TOO much. At least with the turbo plug and RE10. I'll know for sure once I get an RE11 and give that a shot. I think I'm losing time to wheel spin.

What tires are you running? I've just switched up to AKA's soft compound of their CityBlocks and have yet to try them out. I'd be willing to bet your power is just fine :D

[Lapper]

I switched over to the tire your talking about on the second heat of the ROAR Regional here. A friend let me try them. I liked them so much I bought them off of him. The Calibers I have are the M2... Should've got the M3. I'm not sure if I was thinking out loud with that post or just lookin for a reason to get a new pipe. Although the RE11 might pay off. The track I run on mostly is a large fast track. And on another note I switched over to 25% for a smoother idle and a better running motor overall.

[Sein]

Here is the vid as promised:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QmSonvgYwDY

[Klimpen]

Thats awesome to see. Did you lead all the way through and finish as #1?
Ohh I love the....
- I don't know where dad is, I lost him.
- I'm in first place!

That track is pretty narrow huh? I thought our track where narrow but this one is tight!

[Sein]

Thats awesome to see. Did you lead all the way through and finish as #1?
Ohh I love the....
- I don't know where dad is, I lost him.
- I'm in first place!

That track is pretty narrow huh? I thought our track where narrow but this one is tight!

Yea, that was pretty funny, but no I did not lead the whole race. I was too nervous. I was a little relieved after I crashed and some cars passed me. After a while, I started to relax and get into a groove. Ended up finishing 2nd but I know I will do better next time.

Our track is very tight, and that is why most people run the .21 on it. I really like the torque of the .28 though. It suites my driving style well.

[infotechproximity8]

The 8IGHT-T 2.0 RTR includes a Losi 454 engine which provides the optimal amount of power for dominating a race or just bashing in the backyard. This potent .28-sized performance engine, specifically built for 1/8-scale off-road vehicles, offers great styling and a color anodized cooling head. A tuned pipe is also included for outstanding performance from the first time the engine is fired up.
__________________________________________________ _________
Used Auto Parts (http://www.autopartsinc.com) | Used Car Parts (http://www.autopartsinc.com)

[Klimpen]

The 8IGHT-T 2.0 RTR includes a Losi 454 engine which provides the optimal amount of power for dominating a race or just bashing in the backyard. This potent .28-sized performance engine, specifically built for 1/8-scale off-road vehicles, offers great styling and a color anodized cooling head. A tuned pipe is also included for outstanding performance from the first time the engine is fired up.


And what do you mean by that? Posting a quote that Losi use in their advertisement???

[nitro-rob]

I ordered the turbo kit. Has anyone done a direct comparison before and after adding the head? How noticeable is it?

[Sein]

I have not but from all the research I did it seems like a good investment. I am going to order mine soon, I want to get the re11 pipe also.

[brandnewtruggy]

Ive got a brand new truggy and when i put it on the starter box the little sprocket tht hits the rubber on the starter wont move. It locks up. What do i do?

[Sein]

Ive got a brand new truggy and when i put it on the starter box the little sprocket tht hits the rubber on the starter wont move. It locks up. What do i do?
You have to take a screw driver and turn the motor over till it loosens up. The little sprocket is called a flywheel, on the bottom side of your chassis stick the screwdriver in and slowly pry the flywheel. Once you turn it far enough it will loosen. Then you can put it back on the starter box and try to start it again. I recommend you heat the motor up with a hair drier or heat gun and that will help loosen the pinch on the top so it turns over easier. Also, loosen your glow plug 3/4 turn and once it starts tighten it back down.

[kayl]

I ordered the turbo kit. Has anyone done a direct comparison before and after adding the head? How noticeable is it?

i have also ordered mine, let you know what i think once its installed.


Can ppl give me more info on the main differences between the re11 and re10 pipe
Also which they prefer, i race on the grass :D

[Neobart]

RE11 is a bottom, to mid-range pipe, RE10 is a mid to top-end pipe. Also the RE11 is a carbon copy of a O.S. 2050 pipe.

[Sein]

RE11 is a bottom, to mid-range pipe, RE10 is a mid to top-end pipe. Also the RE11 is a carbon copy of a O.S. 2050 pipe.

You got them mix up bro.
It is exactly the opposite.

[Neobart]

Nope I don't. The re11 is longer and a little slimmer than the re10, long pipe=more bottom end, shorter pipe=more top.

[Lapper]

Sein is right, I assure you. I got a noticable difference in the low end with the RE10. With the turbo head it runs cooler but now I'm getting some wheelspin. Our track is a real fast/large one so for me I think the turbo head and RE11 might be better for me. Now I'm curious about that RE11 being similar to the OS 2060. Hmmmm As for those pipes... the 2050 is the low/mid pipe and the 2060 is the top end pipe.

[Neobart]

Well there you just contradicted yourself, the RE11 is a carbon copy of the 2050 pipe. The 2060 and re10 are supposed to be similar, but not identical.

[Sein]

Straight from Losi's product page:


RE10 Exhaust System: .21,.28
At a Glance

With the pressure tap pointed forward and located inside the pipe, the Losi RE10 Exhaust System provides extra clearance and keeps the tap and pressure line out of harm's way.

The RE10 Exhaust System provides immediately gratifying explosive power. The system includes extra mounting parts and the mounted setscrew, located on the outside, makes for easy adjustments. The attractive reinforced exit pipe helps prevent damage, and the unique finish sets the pipe apart from look-a-likes.
Features

* Immediately gratifying explosive power
* Extra mounting parts included
* Mounted setscrew accessible from outside for easy adjustments
* Attractive reinforced exit pipe helps prevent damage
* Unique finish sets pipe apart from look-a-likes

[Sein]

RE11 1/8 Race Exhaust System, .21, .28
At a Glance

Designed for mid- to high-power .21 and .28 nitro engines, the Losi RE11 exhaust system is dyno-tested and tuned for reliable performance that can be backed up anytime.
Features

* Better mid- to top-end power
* Smooth lineal power band
* Hard-anodized black finish dissipates heat better
* Reinforced exit tube minimizes damages from impact
* Dyno-tested and tuned for reliable performance
* Designed from mid- to high-power band .21 and .28 engines
* Easy to drive on slick tracks

[Lapper]

Well how about that...:rolleyes:

[Lapper]

In my line of thought, a longer pipe would have more internal volume and thus take more time to fill with pressure making it more of a top end pipe. A shorter pipe in turn pressurizes much faster making it a better low end pipe. Just my way of thinking. Not based on any facts just my assumption. But as far as the RE series pipes, I knew that one, not only from Losi's site but the forums also.

[Neobart]

Think of the tuned pipe like the pipe on an organ, the longer it is the lower a frequency it resonates at.

[kayl]

Well there you just contradicted yourself, the RE11 is a carbon copy of the 2050 pipe. The 2060 and re10 are supposed to be similar, but not identical.

cool thanks for that info.

And thanxs also to sein, thats the same info i found today on amains site.
I think ill orer the RE11.



Any guys played with their steering Servo Saver??
I complained to some of the guys at the races on sunday, how even with a better steering server it seemed like i was taking corners alot wider than others.
THen friend showed me the steering Servo Saver and we screwed it almost all the way in.
Next race my steering was way to sensitive. SO ill have to take it apart again and back it off a little before the next race.
How much thread from the bottom are other guys running :confused:

[sluggo]

cool thanks for that info.

And thanxs also to sein, thats the same info i found today on amains site.
I think ill orer the RE11.



Any guys played with their steering Servo Saver??
I complained to some of the guys at the races on sunday, how even with a better steering server it seemed like i was taking corners alot wider than others.
THen friend showed me the steering Servo Saver and we screwed it almost all the way in.
Next race my steering was way to sensitive. SO ill have to take it apart again and back it off a little before the next race.
How much thread from the bottom are other guys running :confused:

turn it all the way in then back it off 2 1/2 turrns. Also locktite it there or it will back off again.

[kayl]

turn it all the way in then back it off 2 1/2 turrns. Also locktite it there or it will back off again.

thanxs bro,that should keep it where ya need it :D

[Sein]

To get better turn in I dremeled my hubs. It works great. My servo saver is still real loose.
If you are on a tight track try adjusting your rear hubs. You can move both spacers to the rear and it will push your hubs forward making the wheelbase shorter and give it better handling for tighter tracks. You can also use the short ackerman plate and it will also help with your turn in.

Remember, whatever you decide to do, only make one change at a time. So that way you know how it effected the vehicle.

[kayl]

Done a few upgrade on my losi
New braces front and rear, did the diff oils while it was apart, 7k, 7k,5k rear
also put new pipe in RE10, man it has made a massive difference, ripes the grass up when it takes off. WIll install the turbo plug next to see the difference again, caint wait.

http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/2936/dsc04166x.jpg (http://img710.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc04166x.jpg)

http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/3521/dsc04230w.jpg (http://img826.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc04230w.jpg)

http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/9581/dsc04231fl.jpg (http://img697.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc04231fl.jpg)

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/2299/dsc04232p.jpg (http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc04232p.jpg)

http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/736/dsc04233d.jpg (http://img697.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc04233d.jpg)

http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/2137/dsc04236o.jpg (http://img819.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc04236o.jpg)

[Klimpen]

What is the stock glow plug that came with the Losi 454 engine?
I had the stock one during break in and then another gallon or two.
Finally it gave up and I put in a O'Donnell Purple plug but I'm not sure that is a good one.
I use those in my Picco .26 (Revo) and there they are bullet proof. Not so much in the Losi 454.

So I would like to try the stock glow plug again but don't know what it is!
Perhaps another suggestion about plug for that engine?

[Sein]

It's the DYN2495:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=DYN2495

[Klimpen]

Thanks mate!
I see that those are not that easy to get a hold of.
I was out on the track today and used the O'Donnell Blue glow plug and it works OK so I'll stick to it for a while.
I got another problem with the car. All of a sudden the rear diff "jumped gear" or what to call it??!
I could apply full brake with the car in the air (my bother holding it) and then I could turn both rear wheels at the same time (same direction) and I could hear the diff making a strange noise and skip over to the next teeth inside....

What to do?

[Sein]

No problem. With the rear diff, I don't know. A few people with 8t 2.0 have had problems with that diff.
I haven't took mine apart yet because I think I will have problems too, lol. It has been running great and I have just about two gallon on it. It is over due for a fluid change though.

[kayl]

What is the stock glow plug that came with the Losi 454 engine?
I had the stock one during break in and then another gallon or two.
Finally it gave up and I put in a O'Donnell Purple plug but I'm not sure that is a good one.
I use those in my Picco .26 (Revo) and there they are bullet proof. Not so much in the Losi 454.

So I would like to try the stock glow plug again but don't know what it is!
Perhaps another suggestion about plug for that engine?



I installed the turbo button in mine tonight, heading down the park tomorrow to tune her up cant wait :D

http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/9112/22521893.jpg (http://img251.imageshack.us/my.php?image=22521893.jpg)


http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/9539/78174084.jpg (http://img265.imageshack.us/my.php?image=78174084.jpg)

http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/8388/81567768.jpg (http://img831.imageshack.us/my.php?image=81567768.jpg)


The old one on the right, new one seems to be slightly less area, so im guessing more compression

http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/379/65889251.jpg (http://img830.imageshack.us/my.php?image=65889251.jpg)

[Sein]

Looks nice :D I can't wait to get mine. I just bought an re11 pipe and turbo head is next.


By looking at you head it seems you run your motor pretty fat?

[Klimpen]

The old one on the right, new one seems to be slightly less area, so im guessing more compression

Less area (volume) would mean less compression too I think!

[T-MAN]

Less area (volume) would mean less compression too I think!
No, the same sized piston trying to compress less volume would equal more compression

[Klimpen]

Ahh, do you all mean less volume in the COMBUSTION CHAMBER???
I thought you meant the button head had less volume (giving more volume to the combustion chamber).

[backoneout]

hi i'm new here just bought a rtr losi 8ight truggy wondering were abouts i can get a set up sheet from??

[T-MAN]

hi i'm new here just bought a rtr losi 8ight truggy wondering were abouts i can get a set up sheet from??
Sure, just go to home page - race centre- set-up sheet finder

[backoneout]

thanks mate

[Sein]

I finally got my re11 pipe and the turbo head on my truggy. I have a race this Sunday so we will see how she performs. I will also get some video footage.

I'm real excited, just went through the whole truck last night. Took everything apart cleaned it and tightened it back up. I replaced things that needed to be replaced, put fresh shock oil in, and now she is just sitting looking pretty :D

I even took the engine apart and cleaned it. That 454 motor is almost on it's third gallon and it will still push the sleeve out of the case when I turn it over. This engine is a beast. I can consistently get over 8mins of run time on a tank and if I am not pushing it I can get 9mins:eek: I know some will say bs but I will record video so you can see for yourself. The way this engine runs I would never buy another motor. I saw one sell on ebay for $75 brand new!!!

Anyway, I just looking forward to the weekend of racing and I will update everyone on how it went. Wish me luck :)

[Sein]

It was a beautiful day this Sunday, but I had a bad race weekend. I have been using these cheap servos, and they gave me problems this weekend. So, I am getting the famous 7955 or the 7950.

BUT the motor was monstrous!!!! I could not believe the difference in performance. The track I run on is not very big most racers run 12 or 13 toothCB and 50 spur. Because I like the .28 I run a 15:50. With the stock pipe and standard button head it pulled it well but nothing like the re11 and turbo head does. As soon as you fire the engine up you can immediately tell a difference. The tune I had on the stock pipe and standard head was rich for the re11 and turbo head. After I finish adjusting the tune It was crazy how hard it pulled. I thought by running the re11 I was going to lose a little bottom but I gained a lot! It was great to say the least.

My wife was not able to get any video of me because she was wearing slippers and could not come by the track :mad: Next time for sure! I will probably make a vid of it just running around so others can see and hear it.

All in all, the motor is sick, and I will be getting another after this one dies.

[Lapper]

For $270 You can pick up a TQ .21 which is a carbon copy of the GRP tuned .21. Just recently broke this motor in and OMG. The 454 was nice but seemed like too much for me. The GRP gives me usable power that never tachs out. VERY happy with this motor. Used to be what the Losi Team Drivers ran before the factory burned down and they made the switch to Novarossi. Just thought I would share. :D

[Carpenter Don]

I have noticed some slop at the rear inner hinge pin brace and the rear hinge pin. Is that normal or my bad landings? Pins look good not bent. Next my rear outer bearing keeps blowing up, my fault? Would the upgrade rear hubs help?

[Lapper]

Yes, no, and yes. lol. The plastic bearing inserts do wear with time. The alumininum one will last. Even if your hinge pins are straight the holes in the braces oval out easily. Instead do yourself a favor and get the adjustable hinge pin braces. Not only are they adjustable but the inserts are replaceable and cheaper than buying multiple sets of braces.

[T-MAN]

Yes, no, and yes. lol. The plastic bearing inserts do wear with time. The alumininum one will last. Even if your hinge pins are straight the holes in the braces oval out easily. Instead do yourself a favor and get the adjustable hinge pin braces. Not only are they adjustable but the inserts are replaceable and cheaper than buying multiple sets of braces.
Best advice I've heard in a while. The first thing I did was get the adjustable hinge pin brackets. Not only is it easy to replace the inserts so that you never have any slop, they come with tons of inserts of varying degrees. They also look very cool.

[The Wedge]

Two questions:

Anyone know where I can buy a replacement grommet that connects the pipe to the engine? Mine is all worn down and now smoke is coming out of that area when I try to start, which I think is the reason it won't start. I've looked all over but I can't find anything. Maybe I'm using the wrong search keywords.

Also, has anyone had a problem with the DX3S radio not turning off? Mine won't turn off and nothing bad happened to the radio. Just went to turn it off and it wouldn't. The button seems fine. I had to take the batteries out, but once I put them back in it turns on.

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

[Lapper]

If your talking about the rubber exhaust gasket, any one made for .21 to .28 engines will work. The HPI ones are a lil thick though. I've been using THS and Sweep Racing gaskets.

[The Wedge]

Thanks! That worked

[hall44magnum]

Hey gentileman: I have read that the servos that come with the 8ight T 2.0 are junk,what servos would you replace them with? I was thinking HItec7950 for steering and HItec7940 for throttle,all opinions are welcome thanks..

[Sein]

Hey gentileman: I have read that the servos that come with the 8ight T 2.0 are junk,what servos would you replace them with? I was thinking HItec7950 for steering and HItec7940 for throttle,all opinions are welcome thanks..

I just installed the savox 1267mg throttle and 1268mg steering very happy with these and they don't cost as much as the HiTechs

Here are the specs:

1267mg

* Torque: @7.4v - 291 oz-in / 21 kg-cm
* Speed: @7.4v - 0.09sec/60°
* Voltage Range: 4.5v-7.4v
* Weight: 62g
* Motor: Coreless
* Gear: Steel
* Case: Aluminum Heatsink
* Output Shaft: 25T Spline (Futaba)
* Case Size (LxWxH): 40.3x20.2x37.2mm


1268mg

* Torque: @6.0v - 208 oz-in. (13 kg-cm) / @7.4v - 361oz-in. (26 kg-cm)
* Speed: @6.0v - 0.13sec/60° / @7.4v - 0.11sec/60°
* Voltage Range: 4.5v-7.4v
* Weight: 62g
* Motor: Coreless
* Gear: Steel
* Case: Aluminum Heatsink
* Output Shaft: 25T Spline (Futaba)
* Dimensions (LxWxH): 40.3x20.2x37.2mm

[rythmrider]

I was recomended the jr 9100 and the jr ds8911 but i wasnt sure which one would be throttle and which one steering or is there a better choice. but i want to stay around the 150 price range.

[moe]

I was recomended the jr 9100 and the jr ds8911 but i wasnt sure which one would be throttle and which one steering or is there a better choice. but i want to stay around the 150 price range.

150 dollar range, you ought to get your self a hitec high voltage man. much better. i like to use fast ones for throttle and stronger ones for steering.

[jazztaz]

I was recomended the jr 9100 and the jr ds8911 but i wasnt sure which one would be throttle and which one steering or is there a better choice. but i want to stay around the 150 price range.



Hi there I use the hitec 7995TG for my steering and cheap savox for the t/b most of the guy's at the track use the Hitec for the steering

heres the spec for the Hitec

Motor Type: Coreless

Bearing Type: Dual Ball Bearing

Speed: 0.19 / 0.15 sec @ 60 deg.

Torque: (4.8v/6v) 18 / 24 kg.cm

Size: 40.00 x 20.00 x 37.00mm

Weight: 65.00g.

when i put this in my Truggy I tightened up the servo save nut which give me better steering.

hope this helps

cheers Jazztaz