Help! New 8T 427 will Not start! [Archive]

esims26

09-10-2009, 05:13 PM

f the engine wont start, make sure all the batteries are chaged esp in the glow igniter, make sure the pipe has no fuel built up in it, and heat the engine block and head, to about 200 before trying to start new engines need to be heated since the sleeve and piston are so tight.

DoubleTrouble

09-10-2009, 05:30 PM

thanks esims26...done all that too...and yes been heating it up every time...just frustrating!
next idea?!

400units

09-10-2009, 07:06 PM

1. Make sure air and fuel hoses are connected.
2. Hold your finger over exhaust stinger and watch fuel flow from gas tank to carb and then release finger.
3. Take out glow plug and test it in the igniter making sure it glows nice a bright.
4. I like to take after run oil and crank over the engine while putting several drops into the carb. This helps lube everything and prepairs it for its first start. You can do this while your heating it. Put ten drops in, crank it for five seconds and repeat a couple of times. This is done without the glow plug in.
5. Instal glow plug about halve way so compression is reduced.
6. Make sure high and low speed needles are at factory settings for breakin. I've had some engines that were not even close to break in settings.
7. Crank over engine. If you have fuel, air and spark it will start. If it still doesn't start, lean your high speed needle 2 hours at a time until it does start.
8. Once it's running, tighten your glow plug and set your idle so it stays running. Follow your manual break in process. If you had to lean it out to start it, make sure you set the high speed needle back to factory breakin. Leaning it out just helps with the initial start.

If it doesn't start after all that, preasure test your exhaust and fuel system. Exhaust leaks can make starting and running more difficult. Good luck.

DoubleTrouble

09-11-2009, 09:08 AM

TAZ & 400...Thank You!

seems it was the radio settings + the HSN was way of setting...changed that and now it starts and idles good...but as I run it to breakin it seems like its being held back...like the brakes are partially on or something?
or is this just the way it is until I complete my breakin?

anything else you can think of to check? Love that sound tho!

DoubleTrouble

09-12-2009, 04:46 AM

Perfect....I will try all this!
won't get back at it until Sunday....gotta go super late model racing now...finale tonite!
will let u know how I make out.

madweazl

09-12-2009, 06:04 AM

If you're still at the initial carb settings for break-in the motor is going to bog like crazy and wont make any power. Run a few tanks through it like that and then start to lean out the high side needle (HSN) a little at a time until it "sounds" like it's running properly and still has a bit of smoke coming from the pipe. You'll hear and see it :)

DoubleTrouble

09-13-2009, 07:25 AM

ok...its not bogging, but it certainly does not 'sound' right...we'll see as I get 'er thru the breakin.
Thanks much.

DoubleTrouble

09-19-2009, 07:38 AM

losiracer

09-19-2009, 08:09 AM

well finally got back to trying to do breakin, BUT...I realize temps here are cooler today but it barely wants to start...well it did fine after I heated the head....but then it runs a bit and soon as I make a turn it quits? and no I'm not using any brake.

this heating up the engine prior is a pain in butt...especially if I was away from home...not sure how to beat that problem tho.

Oh...not getting much smoke? is this normal considring I only have 1 tank thru it yet? maybe need to richen the HSN?

any thoughts?

Thanks much
Bruce

well there should be smoke all the time in the brakein stages you need to have it a rich as you can. for about a 1/2 gallon of fule then start to tune it being a big block the warm up is always needed. Welcome to the world of big blocks... as far as it quiting on you sounds too lean. but not too sure being most of my nitro exp is in helis and planes that deals with alt and air off the ground. but hope this helps some.

DoubleTrouble

09-19-2009, 08:22 AM

ya i think you're right,...need to richen it a bit...I'll try that today
thanks for the tips!

DoubleTrouble

09-19-2009, 12:39 PM

well there should be smoke all the time in the brakein stages you need to have it a rich as you can. for about a 1/2 gallon of fule then start to tune it being a big block the warm up is always needed. Welcome to the world of big blocks... as far as it quiting on you sounds too lean. but not too sure being most of my nitro exp is in helis and planes that deals with alt and air off the ground. but hope this helps some.

:mad: well adjusted HSN 2 hrs and now it may or may not start?
if it starts it runs a few seconds and then soon as I give it a touch of throttle it quits!
UGH...this sucker is Frustrating!!
this makes no sense to me.......Help!

losiracer

09-19-2009, 01:17 PM

:mad: well adjusted HSN 2 hrs and now it may or may not start?
if it starts it runs a few seconds and then soon as I give it a touch of throttle it quits!
UGH...this sucker is Frustrating!!
this makes no sense to me.......Help!

whats the temp at when you try to drive it mine the same way but if i get mine up to about 125 or so then i can drive it leave the glow igniter on it and rev it up a bit to get temp up then take off the glow driver. try that and let me know how that works.

DoubleTrouble

09-19-2009, 04:14 PM

whats the temp at when you try to drive it mine the same way but if i get mine up to about 125 or so then i can drive it leave the glow igniter on it and rev it up a bit to get temp up then take off the glow driver. try that and let me know how that works.

not sure on temps...can't get it to run long enough + try to hold the glow starter on and give it some throttle! geez i need 6 hands i guess!
so its ok to hold the glow starter on the plug....for how long?

will try again tomorrow...if it doesn't work I'm gonna have a real fire sale. :mad:

thanks again

losiracer

09-19-2009, 04:35 PM

just hold it for about 6-8 secs after it starts keep the remote in one hand put the car on the and the glow starter in the other hand and just push down on the car its how i do it at first kinda strange but you will get used to it... LOL if that dont work man send me your email and i will pass it to a pro in my area and have them email you.....

DoubleTrouble

09-20-2009, 04:40 AM

First of all, back the HSN up 2 hrs to where you had it.;) You should only move the HSN needle after evrey tank of fuel that you have run through break-in. You should start to see a more steady stream of 'blue smoke' as you get further into the break-in process. After about 5 tanks of break-in, you can adjust the HSN & LSN(if needed), not to mention the idle screw to help keep it running while during break-in, so that you will have(or see) 'blue smoke' every time you apply the throttle.:D
You also shouldn't have to hold the Glow starter(ingintor) on the glow plug, it should turn and twist on the glow plug and then you can leave it on for about 10-15 seconds after you have started it so that it helps to maintain temps.;)

:confused: Ok I'll try this...but how many turns out (how rich) do you think this big block HSN should be for starting breakin?
also while I have you, what is your opinion on how long I have to continue heating this engine prior to startup?
and final question: will it help or hurt to give it a little throttle while starting?

Thanks a loT!

losiracer

09-20-2009, 07:09 AM

No there shouldn't !:eek::rolleyes:

but yet you say in your next post You should start to see a more steady stream of 'blue smoke' as you get further into the break-in process hmmmmm im confused are you seeing smoke or not...and yet again you say "so that you will have(or see) 'blue smoke' every time you apply the throttle."

DoubleTrouble

09-20-2009, 10:27 AM

whats the temp at when you try to drive it mine the same way but if i get mine up to about 125 or so then i can drive it leave the glow igniter on it and rev it up a bit to get temp up then take off the glow driver. try that and let me know how that works.

ok we're making some prgress... at least it starts now but I don't think I'm getting the engine warmed up enough so it will run...here's the latest pain-in-the-butt issue: it starts and idles but even with holding the glow igniter on there, soon as I touch the throttle to try and rev it a bit....IT STALLS!!! UGH!

so do I adjust the HSN or LSN now? thats is where I'm confused....I'm thinking LSN but I really have no idea, being new to this nitro stuff? again, I cannot touch the throttle without it quitting. :confused:
can you point me in right direction? Thanks much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

losiracer

09-20-2009, 08:14 PM

try the low side richin it up about 30 mins at a time

losiracer

09-21-2009, 07:03 AM

Dude, seriously !:mad: You will not any smoke as you fisrt start out during the break-in process, but you will however start to see smoke as you get farther along towards the end of the break-in process ! I think your confused !:p

no where did i say you will see blue smoke at stand still ummm maybe you are conufed.. and ummm from your link maybe you should read it.

Low-Speed Adjustment
The low speed adjustment affects the idle and slightly-off-idle performance.
The optimum setting allows the motor to idle for at least 8−10 seconds

this is what he can't do.......the process i have told you has my car running fine and have no problems at the track..... you can go with taz if you want but being from AZ. his way would work if you lived in the sand box of AZ.... (not attacking you taz) the altitude has a big part in it too. your best be is to find some one close to you that has one and have them help you one on one. Your local hobby shop should be able to help....

trevor burright

09-21-2009, 03:27 PM

haha shouldnt of bought a rtr, should have just spent more money to get a race roller with a better engine

DoubleTrouble

09-21-2009, 04:42 PM

haha shouldnt of bought a rtr, should have just spent more money to get a race roller with a better engine

I don't find your stupid comments very funny!
but since you mentioned it...what is a better engine, in your humble opinion?

losiracer

09-21-2009, 04:44 PM

the 427 is fine dont worrie about a better engine

esims26

09-21-2009, 04:53 PM

the 454 engine is sweet to me the rtr kit was well worth it it lasted all race day and a 30 min main for e and have had no problems form it was a little tough to get broke it but **** its a big block dont bash this truck or engine cause most have had no problems with it!

trevor burright

09-21-2009, 09:05 PM

a v-spec speed, trinity ex-tech 2, reedy .21, orion .21 or a ninja .21

DoubleTrouble

09-22-2009, 01:21 PM

NOT !:confused::eek::rolleyes:

TAZ: I am curious why you state "NOT" about riching the LSN ??
your thoughts on this?

losiracer

09-22-2009, 05:40 PM

TAZ and DoubleTrouble what are the elevations you are at. becuase this make for a big diffrence in setups... just putting it out there...

DoubleTrouble

09-23-2009, 04:27 PM

I didn't say 'NOT TO" richen(or lean) the LSN, just not during the 'Break-in" period.;)
You can however richen or lean the LSN as a 'fine tuning adjustment' all you want(as needed) after the "Break-in" process.......but that's just my opinion, you do whatever you want to, it's 'YOUR' truck.:D

OK I hear ya...but given this would you suggest leaving the needles at factory settings for breakin?

DoubleTrouble

09-25-2009, 04:26 AM

Thank you
as for the 8T manual..I don't find it that good..not much detail....I will give 'er a try tomorrow.

Cheers

madweazl

09-25-2009, 07:51 AM

OK, here are my thoughts.

Set your idle to about 1.5mm (pull the filter and look down the carb throat; the slide should be open about the width of a credit card) and never touch it again. Return both needles to factory settings. Let it idle for an entire tank of fuel at those settings, dont bother manipulating the throttle. If you still cant give it any throttle on the next tank lean the LSN about 2 hours and blip the throttle; you still want it very rich but you need to be able to manipulate the throttle without it dying on you. Once you can give it some throttle (it should bog and be sluggish), leave the LSN and drive it around a bit varying the throttle as much as possible (no wide open pulls). Run a tank a fuel through it like this. Now you can start leaning out the HSN a little bit each tank. After about 6 tanks of fuel I (just me, everyone has a different method) start to dial in a real tune. Once I have the HSN where I want I go back to the LSN and dial it in.

DoubleTrouble

09-28-2009, 02:30 AM

;)Good post madweazl !:D

yes thanks..BUT, geez what next...did all the settings...went to start it and now it just spins over, not even trying to start!?????????

could this be a OWB Bearing issue? had similar problem with a TMaxx last yr.

now I am really frustrated....I have not even finished 1 tank of fuel for breakin!!!
:mad: :eek:

DoubleTrouble

09-28-2009, 02:54 PM

Make a vid of it and post it so that it wil be easier for us to help you with it.;)

no i have no means to do a video...the starter is spinning thats all...the engine is not turning over st sll.
thoughts? :(

DoubleTrouble

09-30-2009, 08:39 AM

Well thanks, that's a huge help !:D It's probably the OWB inside the engine, behind the pull start, spin start, etc..;)

well lovely....in that case, I have to ask how the **** this bearing can go bad when I have barely run this engine at all...still on 1st tank of fuel !!!

what am I doing wrong to cause this?

one local guy said "I must be leaving unburnt fuel in the engine" to cause the bearing to fail? make any sense?
and how can I not leave fuel in there when I can't get the engine to run long enough to burn it off!!
Thoughts?
:(

Gary Kyes

10-02-2009, 05:21 PM

DoubleTrouble

10-03-2009, 03:39 PM

First turn on your radio, pull full throttle and give the truck a good shove. It should roll freely. If not check the brakes for dragging and the gear mesh etc.
Next try removing the airfilter boot and make sure you are getting full throttle. You mentioned that you changed some radio settings and this may need adjustment as well.
You mentioned you are using a 427 engine? The Truggy RTR comes with the new 454. If the 427 is out of a previous car it may need some attention.
so Gary are you telling me my LHS screwed me on this NEW 8T since it has the MACH 427 engine?
when did they start placing 454's in these RTR's?

my better question is why would the OWB fail now on first tank of fuel during breakin ??

Help appreciated...Thanks

HeatMiser

10-03-2009, 07:12 PM

my better question is why would the OWB fail now on first tank of fuel during breakin ??

Help appreciated...Thanks
I know there are those who have had these fail repeatedly for some reason. I've heard that it's due to the oil in the fuel and should just need a cleaning. I never had to do anything special with the one in my Mach 26 and it went the life of the engine. So far, so good with my 427 as well. You'll probably just need to take it out and see what's going on in there.

DoubleTrouble

10-04-2009, 06:38 AM

I know there are those who have had these fail repeatedly for some reason. I've heard that it's due to the oil in the fuel and should just need a cleaning. I never had to do anything special with the one in my Mach 26 and it went the life of the engine. So far, so good with my 427 as well. You'll probably just need to take it out and see what's going on in there.

so could it be because I've been unable to burn off excess fuel after a very short run (cause it quits and will not start again)?
also do you have to remove the engine to get at this OWB?

Thanks for your help......

>> Frustrated in Canada! :mad:

HeatMiser

10-04-2009, 08:03 AM

so could it be because I've been unable to burn off excess fuel after a very short run (cause it quits and will not start again)?
also do you have to remove the engine to get at this OWB?

Thanks for your help......

>> Frustrated in Canada :mad:

I really don't know why it's given up on you. Hopefully, you'll be able to find out. The bearing is inside the engine, and the backplate needs to come off. So, you'll probably want to remove it from the vehicle, even if you have enough room to get to it otherwise. Some pics of how it goes together are attached. The OWB is on the left in last two.

Before taking it apart, however, you might first want to figure out if the LHS did you wrong on that vehicle, and then if they will help you out with it.

Audiobahnaholic

10-04-2009, 10:05 AM

so Gary are you telling me my LHS screwed me on this NEW 8T since it has the MACH 427 engine?
when did they start placing 454's in these RTR's?

my better question is why would the OWB fail now on first tank of fuel during breakin ??

Help appreciated...Thanks

The 8ight T RTR came with the 427. The 8ight T 2.0 comes with the 454. Easy way to tell is your chassis Red? and do you have the "sperm" shaped body? If not then you have the 1.0 and this is the correct engine.

DoubleTrouble

10-04-2009, 02:02 PM

Heat Miser....Thanks!!

will give 'er a try this week....its just darn frustrating with a new truck!

DoubleTrouble

10-04-2009, 02:03 PM

Thanks Audio...(sigh of relief!),,,,, its definitely a 427 then! Thank u.

HeatMiser

10-05-2009, 06:33 AM

Hey HeatMiser, I have the same Sportwerks carb w/9.0mm venturi on my Mach 427 in my LST2.;)
http://forum.losi.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=400&d=1254621525
Yep, it's a good carb and I like having the option of using different venturi inserts.

HeatMiser

10-06-2009, 06:49 AM

YES IT IS, but I can't seem to get my venturi out.....it's like it's stuck in there or something. I tried to get it out by turning it and even using a pair of pliers very gently on the outer edge of the venturi, but no luck at all.:( What shouold I do to be able to get it out ?:confused:
It's only held in by a couple of o-rings, so I would think you should be able to get it out by just running the engine a bit to warm things up and then wiggling it out with a pair of soft-jaw pliers. I can't think of anything else you'd need to do.

HeatMiser

10-08-2009, 05:10 AM

Hey heatmiser, I finally got the venturi(carb) insert(resrtictor) out of my Sportwerks carb last night.:D I used a flat head screwdriver and turned it a couple of times, then very gently pried it up and out it came......Thanks, I think it was held in by ARO !;) And I'm glad I did because it needed to cleaned ! I wonder what would happen if I tried to run it like that without it, but still have the air filter on......wouldn't it just give it more air/fuel mixture as if it now had a 10.0mm venturi ?:confused:

Glad to hear it. I don't see a problem running it without the insert. It would be just like the stock carb.

HeatMiser

10-09-2009, 03:15 AM

THANKS ! I didn't think it would, but I wanted to hear that from you before I did.:D
The stock carb for the 427 actually has a 8.5mm venturi on it, which I still have, I just don't like it as good as the Sportwerks carb.;)
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSR1064 - Stock carb
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=DYN0895 - Mach 427

I can't see how you could hurt anything that way, but now that I look at it, there is a ridge at the bottom which may disrupt the airflow somewhat. That could affect how it runs, so you really may be best off with the 9.0 insert to avoid that. I actually thought the stock carb was even larger than 9, but never measured it. I've only run the 6.5 and 7.5 myself.

HeatMiser

10-09-2009, 03:25 AM

Taz, we seem to have hijacked DoubleTrouble's thread here, so how about we talk offline instead, so he can have it back?

HeatMiser

10-09-2009, 03:36 AM

Taz, will do.

DT, how's it going? You get that bad boy running yet?

DoubleTrouble

10-11-2009, 04:25 PM

Taz, will do.

DT, how's it going? You get that bad boy running yet?

YES I DID!!!!!!!!! WOO HOO!!!!!

had to replace the OWB and richen LSN but now its purring....ya gotta luv this beast when it runs....put 6 tanks thru for breakin and just need to lean it a bit more....this sucker will move & I love how it corners, turns on a dime.

I AM HAPPY, Finally! :D :) :D

thanks guys incl. TAZ for all your help & suggestions...

Bruce
Double~Trouble :cool: