View Full Version : 8IGHT 2.0 Buggy RTR
sluggoman
09-07-2009, 08:56 AM
I didn't see a thread for this RTR, so here is a new thread.
I blew out the throttle servo (270) after a few tanks, and bought the 650. Now that servo is non-functional (650). There appears to be nothing catching that would cause the servo to strain any more than normal.
I've had xxx-t's for awhile and love them. This is my first journey into Nitro's. Any suggestions on what could be causing this?
mustang347
09-07-2009, 10:07 AM
My stock throttle servo died after a few tanks as well. I got a replacement from Horison, but I threw in a sweet JR since I need more performance/reliability. I think its just a poor servo.
Check to make sure your end points are set correctly in your radio and that the linkage isnt binding.
sluggoman
09-07-2009, 01:51 PM
what did you get....9100?
Does it make any humming noises?
Losi_Racer
09-07-2009, 02:03 PM
slug, spend about 80$ on a servo, anything less is junk
Big Puddin
09-07-2009, 02:34 PM
I had a couple people purchase the rtr Buggy and Truggy they blew out some servos but what I found was there radio epa's where maxed out and thats why they had servo issues.
hdcruzer
09-07-2009, 04:22 PM
My Truggy RTR came with JR 650 M havnt had any problems. Ive ran about 12 tanks of gas and smaked a couple things fairly hard. Rick
Kicker
09-08-2009, 05:00 AM
I have the 8t 2.0 and the servos that come with the rtr are a known issue (even talked with horizon about it and they confirmed the issue). End points was adjusted correctly how ever the servers are just weak...
The 350 engine is it any good?
How do you think it will perform in a 8ight-t?
SeanJones68
09-09-2009, 01:45 PM
Mr. G there is a thread on them, and it says there pretty good, get the re10 or 11 pipe i believe, and the turbo head conversion. i have recently seen a couple losi drivers at my local track, and they just added the re10 pipe and it runs great, and they are running them in the rr and running them hard, and havent seen them with any probs.
Nimic
09-09-2009, 02:36 PM
I recently picked up a setup station, and there is a setting called "Down Stops." On the 30mm blocks my station came up with, and with the wheels removed the knuckles (if that's what they are called) of the A-Arms hit the setup board. This would lead me to believe that they are set far too low... Is this setting appropriate for an 8ightb? If so, what should it be set to? I don't see it on the setup sheets...
Don Vinkemulder
09-11-2009, 08:42 PM
A little tip that may help some out. I have heard a couple issues with the axle set screws that hold the wheel hex pin has been rounding out when dis-assembling. Try a 2.0mm good quality hex driver instead of a 5/64ths. The 2.0mm fits tighter in the hex.
Casey Peck
09-12-2009, 01:40 AM
hey Don how you doing? Good one I have a good sharp 2.0 for that very reason
Don Vinkemulder
09-12-2009, 06:03 PM
hey Don how you doing? Good one I have a good sharp 2.0 for that very reason
Doing great. Having fun at the races as much as I can. Looking forward to the Nitro Cross at the PIT. See you there.
How are things your way?
Casey Peck
09-13-2009, 12:46 AM
doing good thanks, just been running as much as possible..
madweazl
09-13-2009, 09:35 AM
What size allen screws are on the kit (this would be handy info in the manual)? I'd like to pick up some quality drivers.
Don Vinkemulder
09-13-2009, 07:09 PM
What size allen screws are on the kit (this would be handy info in the manual)? I'd like to pick up some quality drivers.
0.050, 1/16th, 5/64th's(or 2.0 mm), 3/32
madweazl
09-13-2009, 08:56 PM
0.050, 1/16th, 5/64th's(or 2.0 mm), 3/32
Thank you.
madweazl
09-14-2009, 11:05 AM
What clutch setup does the RTR (buggy) ship with? Is a new flywheel needed for a 4 shoe setup (provided it shipped with a 2 shoe)?
Edit: found it in the RTR specific manual; 4 shoe flywheel with 2 shoes installed.
ABURTON
09-15-2009, 06:11 AM
make sure when you purchase the RTR that you set your epa's. Like mentioned they might be set at max(100%) and cause damage.
The little servo's that come with it are decent but designed to keep cost down. For racing look into something in the upper end of the servo's.
AB
modified
09-15-2009, 01:40 PM
I was charging my stock receiver battery pack last night and fried it. I ordered a new one [ LOSB9915 ]. Could anyone recomend a good charger and give me some advice on how long i should charge the battery, how many amps The battery i ordered is a 1400 mAh, 6 volt 5 cell NiMH with a BEC Connecter.
Neobart
09-16-2009, 05:20 AM
I recently got a Hyperion EOS0606i and am loving it. Very easy to use, can charge just about anything. And it can use 12v or 110v(220 for us in Europe). My other charger is a Team Orion Clubman Lipo edition. Also a great charger but needs a 12v power unit.
I charge my rx packs at 0.4A. I found that to be the best setting for speed vs. capacity. Going any higher meant that I would loose almost 200mah of capacity.
modified
09-17-2009, 03:59 AM
I recently got a Hyperion EOS0606i and am loving it. Very easy to use, can charge just about anything. And it can use 12v or 110v(220 for us in Europe). My other charger is a Team Orion Clubman Lipo edition. Also a great charger but needs a 12v power unit.
I charge my rx packs at 0.4A. I found that to be the best setting for speed vs. capacity. Going any higher meant that I would loose almost 200mah of capacity.
I bought a Onyx 230 Advanced Charger yesterday and chareged it at 1.6 A an noticed i lost about 210mah of capacity:mad:.
madweazl
09-17-2009, 05:55 AM
I bought a Onyx 230 Advanced Charger yesterday and chareged it at 1.6 A an noticed i lost about 210mah of capacity:mad:.
How do you know you lost 210mah?
modified
09-17-2009, 07:48 AM
How do you know you lost 210mah?
The LED read out on the charger showed the battery had a charge of 1190 mah when it stopped charging, the pack has a capacity of 1400mah.
madweazl
09-17-2009, 08:24 AM
The LED read out on the charger showed the battery had a charge of 1190 mah when it stopped charging, the pack has a capacity of 1400mah.
Was this a new battery pack or the old "fried" unit? Regardless, the pack could have had a small charge (my Losi LiPO only took 1100 the first charge and it is a 2000mah pack).
jared52
09-17-2009, 09:11 AM
The LED read out on the charger showed the battery had a charge of 1190 mah when it stopped charging, the pack has a capacity of 1400mah.
I don't think you can measure mAH, that's just the amount of mAH that went in that charge based on the time and rate of charge.
modified
09-17-2009, 12:12 PM
Was this a new battery pack or the old "fried" unit? Regardless, the pack could have had a small charge (my Losi LiPO only took 1100 the first charge and it is a 2000mah pack).
This was a new battery pack .
madweazl
09-17-2009, 01:52 PM
This was a new battery pack .
I'm sure it's just fine; just had some residual charge in it so it didnt peak where you thought it would.
SeanJones68
09-17-2009, 03:22 PM
So i just wanted to say, i had many problems, with my electric e, so i went and bought this rtr nitro 2.0 buggy, and absolutly love it!! took it out tuesday night to the track for the first time, and it was awesome!!! i couldn't be more happy, thank losi for bringing out an exceptional rtr. i did run about three tanks of gas and lost one of the servos, but from reading these threads, i was expecting it.
Sean.
losiracer
09-18-2009, 05:03 PM
Hey got mine a few days ago. after running it a few times i found that my speed is not being displayed i don't know but i saw on the site that it should have a senser around the bell house but after looking i see nothing. but there is a lead plugged in to recever. can any one help with this. thanks for your time in reading this and for any comments you may have for me thank you..
WingWrecker
09-19-2009, 08:47 AM
Hey got mine a few days ago. after running it a few times i found that my speed is not being displayed i don't know but i saw on the site that it should have a senser around the bell house but after looking i see nothing. but there is a lead plugged in to recever. can any one help with this. thanks for your time in reading this and for any comments you may have for me thank you..
The other end of that lead goes to a small sensor (looks like a little chip) mounted on the side of the radio tray. That sensor is there to read reflected light off of a small strip of reflective material that should be affixed to the side of the center diff housing. If that strip of reflective material or your sensor is missing or dirty the speed will not be read.
jamorgan29
09-19-2009, 09:28 AM
Does the starter box that comes with the rtr work on the 8ight 2.0 roller? I'm wondering because I am going to buy the rtr to get a little practice before I jump off the deep end and I was wondering if I would have to buy another starter box?
Neobart
09-19-2009, 09:41 AM
The chassis are laid out the same, no problem using the RTR on a RR.
WingWrecker
09-19-2009, 10:20 AM
Was my RTR supposed to include a glow igniter? The Horizon review video on youtube says so but I didn't get one.
losiracer
09-19-2009, 11:24 AM
i did not get one eather so i dont know
losiracer
09-19-2009, 07:06 PM
yes i got about 1/2 gallon thru mine and its just stoped working too now. is this a digital servo or just a normal servo.
WingWrecker
09-19-2009, 08:08 PM
yes i got about 1/2 gallon thru mine and its just stoped working too now. is this a digital servo or just a normal servo.
Which servo quit working?
RJNicholson
09-20-2009, 02:07 AM
They are both just cheap servos a z590 for steering and a really cheap z270 for throttle.
The 590 is a metal gear servo, but I doubt it's digital, and the 270 is just a cheap servo period.
Replace them both, or just replace the steering and move the 590 to the throttle spot if cash is tight.
losiracer
09-20-2009, 08:03 AM
Which servo quit working?
throttle....
thevinchong
09-20-2009, 07:33 PM
Ya,I agree that...I facing the same problem too
WingWrecker
09-20-2009, 08:11 PM
They are both just cheap servos a z590 for steering and a really cheap z270 for throttle.
The 590 is a metal gear servo, but I doubt it's digital, and the 270 is just a cheap servo period.
Replace them both, or just replace the steering and move the 590 to the throttle spot if cash is tight.
I agree.
I moved the steering to throttle and put the ACE 1015 in for steering. So far so good. Check your end points on the radio to make sure there is zero binding.
madweazl
09-21-2009, 08:09 PM
While the servos arent the highest quality, they are good enough to run with. The vast majority of problems are related to operator error.
Clamber
09-23-2009, 02:22 PM
I really want an 8ight 2.0 but all these servos breaking makes me not want to get one.
I can just replace them, but what happens when the servo throttle dies and youre full throttle?
madweazl
09-23-2009, 03:50 PM
The servos are reliable as any other standard servo; adjusted properly they will last as long as any (unless you run into something and kill the steering servo). Properly adjusted, the throttle will be around 85% travel and the brakes will be about 35%.
losiracer
09-23-2009, 10:25 PM
I really want an 8ight 2.0 but all these servos breaking makes me not want to get one.
I can just replace them, but what happens when the servo throttle dies and youre full throttle?
call horizonhobby they will replace the parts that broke free to you then buy the new servo or save the time and just spend a few more bucks and get a better servo whats 80-90bucks after droping 699 on the car anyway..
SeanJones68
09-24-2009, 09:43 AM
What is a good Glow plug for this motor in the RTR?
jared52
09-24-2009, 12:17 PM
What is a good Glow plug for this motor in the RTR?
I'm using McCoy MC-8 plugs for mine. They were recommended by a Losi Pro driver.
SeanJones68
09-24-2009, 04:05 PM
Thanks Jared!
410spacemarine
09-25-2009, 10:46 AM
no the rtr does not come with a glow igniter
Clamber
09-25-2009, 01:40 PM
Just got my 8 2.0.
What is the best way to break it in?
losiracer
09-25-2009, 03:52 PM
slowly but dont ideal it run it its best to run the motor just bump it around for the first two tanks then start 1/4 throttel runs then next tank go to 1/2 then 3/4 and so on.... but others will tell you other ways this way always works for me and engens last a long time....
WingWrecker
09-25-2009, 04:20 PM
Just got my 8 2.0.
What is the best way to break it in?
This has become the widely accepted 'New School' method of break in and it makes a lot of sense:
The Break-in Bible (http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/295491-break-bible.html)
Evvy
losiracer
09-26-2009, 08:06 PM
done with mine send me pm if you want it you pay shipping and 300 dollers its yours re11 pipe and turbo head only missing clutch pins to complete the set up....sick of trying to tune it.... only has about a 1/2 gallon of fule thru it....
WingWrecker
09-26-2009, 08:19 PM
done with mine send me pm if you want it you pay shipping and 300 dollers its yours re11 pipe and turbo head only missing clutch pins to complete the set up....sick of trying to tune it.... only has about a 1/2 gallon of fule thru it....
Don't give up.. Find someone to help you at the track. You're giving away a great buggy.
Plus it likely wont even want to tune right until close to a gallon has been through it.
410spacemarine
09-27-2009, 10:36 AM
Hey wingwrecker, my 8t rtr speed never worked out of the box. have you got yours to work if so what did you do?
WingWrecker
09-27-2009, 12:47 PM
Hey wingwrecker, my 8t rtr speed never worked out of the box. have you got yours to work if so what did you do?
If you are talking about the speedometer, yes mine works. Well not today because the sensor got dirty..
Check to make sure that the reflective sticker is in place on the center differential housing (bell?) and that it's not dirty. If that's fine then make sure the sensor is plugged securely into the Rx. Last thing to check is the sensor itself. You'll have to disconnect your servo linkages (just take off the servo arms) and take out your radio tray. The sensor should be mounted on the side of the radio tray and pointed at the sticker on the diff.
Hope that helps. If all else fails, call Horizon and they will likely send you a new sensor and reflective sticker.
I plan to clock mine with a radar gun and see how accurate it is. It's a nice feature to be able to see your top speed at the end of a run and see if your tuning is helping.
Clamber
09-28-2009, 08:15 PM
I need some help with tuning guys.
Right now my buggy will bog and die if I let off the throttle for more than a second.
What should I do to get this buggy tuned?
RJNicholson
09-28-2009, 10:52 PM
Your loading up.
Try to lean out the low end a bit.
Your getting to much fuel while letting off throttle and it sounds like it's loading up way to fast.
lucky13
09-30-2009, 06:44 PM
I had the same problem blew 3 270s before I switched to a hitec setup blew $109 each but no problems since I also really fine tuned the end points to reduce some strain .I wrote Losi a few times about the servo problem but didnt get any real feedback lucky they make such a sweet ride or I would have been mad
thevinchong
10-10-2009, 09:58 AM
ya...350 quite powerfull engine...:)
rudedog9988
10-22-2009, 10:05 AM
my new 8ight 2.0 rtr buggy throttle servo crapped out today the stock z270. when i called losi customer service and asked them to replace the servo I asked 4 the rtr steering servo to help alleviate the problem the lady i was speeking with said she was sending me the 650 instead. IMO absoloutley excellent customer service to do that no questions asked. this being my first losi purchase will definately be a customer for life now because the other brand of R/C vehicles i own, i wont mention names, i feel would have told me to get bent and buy another servo.
Thanks Losi
WingWrecker
10-22-2009, 01:21 PM
Good deal! Put that one up front and move the old steering servo back to throttle.
rudedog9988
10-22-2009, 08:53 PM
why should I make the 650 the steering and old steering servo throttle? just curious about the reasoning. seems like if throttle servos go bad one would want the better servo in throttle position?
WingWrecker
10-23-2009, 05:15 PM
why should I make the 650 the steering and old steering servo throttle? just curious about the reasoning. seems like if throttle servos go bad one would want the better servo in throttle position?
The throttle servo went bad because it's a crappy servo not because it takes a lot of abuse (unless you have your end points set way off.) You want the higher torque servo for steering. The stock steering servo is more than enough torque for throttle.
It's common practice for people to buy the RTR and immediately switch the steering servo to throttle, buy a better servo for steering and junk the stock throttle servo. I currently have an ACE 1015 for steering and the stock steering on throttle.
Ask around, you'll find the same answer.
madweazl
10-23-2009, 06:03 PM
The throttle servo went bad because it's a crappy servo not because it takes a lot of abuse (unless you have your end points set way off.) You want the higher torque servo for steering. The stock steering servo is more than enough torque for throttle.
It's common practice for people to buy the RTR and immediately switch the steering servo to throttle, buy a better servo for steering and junk the stock throttle servo. I currently have an ACE 1015 for steering and the stock steering on throttle.
Ask around, you'll find the same answer.
First purchase I made was a pair of Hitec 7950. Servos are the best money you'll ever spend as you'll take them from car to car.
rudedog9988
10-23-2009, 09:10 PM
roger thats what ill do then when the 650 gets here ill put 500 series servo on throttle and new 650 on steering. will post outcome thanks for info alot.
WingWrecker
10-23-2009, 09:51 PM
I predict a positive outcome! :D
Oh yeah... Go ahead and get the turbo conversion and Re10 or RE11 pipe... You'll be amazed at the difference. I just made the switch and wow. Like a whole new buggy.
rudedog9988
10-24-2009, 06:14 AM
im still way new this being my first buggy i probaly dont need any more power right now but where can i get it and how much is it usually. also i was considering getting something in the likes of the dynamite mach 2 .21 so i could have an engine with a spin starter. I hate the starter box with a passion. whats your take on this or a similaaar engine with a drill/spin type starter?
madweazl
10-24-2009, 09:14 AM
im still way new this being my first buggy i probaly dont need any more power right now but where can i get it and how much is it usually. also i was considering getting something in the likes of the dynamite mach 2 .21 so i could have an engine with a spin starter. I hate the starter box with a passion. whats your take on this or a similaaar engine with a drill/spin type starter?
Starter box is the best starting system available.
WingWrecker
10-24-2009, 10:31 AM
Starter box is the best starting system available.
+1
The starter box is a pain with a new engine, especially the 350 which is known to be very tight when new. The RTR starter box is little weak but if you switch to a lipo battery for power it helps tremendously. And as the 350 loses its pinch it becomes easier to start as well. Also remember to push down from the top of the engine for best engagement. And don't push so hard that you stall the starter motors.
I sold my RTR box and bought a used Losi 8ight box. It's setup specifically for the 8b and 8t. There's no pin adjustment to mess with and the motor is stronger. I use a lipo in it as well.
As for the turbo kit, it costs about $20 pretty much anywhere. I found mine for $16.50 HERE. (http://myatomic.com/catalog/viewsku?sku=LOSR2345&itemname=turbo_head_conversion_kit_losi_350) And with the RE11 pipe (http://myatomic.com/catalog/viewsku?sku=LOSR8001&q=re11) added to the order, shipping was free. And what a huge difference that combo makes. It runs better, makes more power, consumes less fuel and my temps dropped about 20 degrees.
Stick with the 350, once it 'wakes up' you won't be disappointed. Find a local track or LHS and get some help with the starter box. It does the job if setup correctly.
madweazl
10-24-2009, 10:40 AM
I didnt have any trouble with my RTR box. I'm using some $17 Protek 3300mah packs. It has gotten stuck in the pinch 2 or 3 times.
WingWrecker
10-24-2009, 10:57 AM
My pinch was pretty bad. It's finally loosened up now, but my flywheel is pretty chewed up. Gotta look into ordering a new one.
On a side note, I just got a new Stampede VXL a couple days ago.. What a blast this little brute is!! Gonna try 3s on it today.
Show871
10-24-2009, 06:14 PM
Does anyone know what stock shock pistons come w the rtr? And I seem to be flying nose down alot of the time. how can I correct for this.....Thanks! 871
WingWrecker
10-24-2009, 07:23 PM
Does anyone know what stock shock pistons come w the rtr? And I seem to be flying nose down alot of the time. how can I correct for this.....Thanks! 871
Shock parts:
http://www.losipartshouse.com/servlet/the-Losi-Parts-House-cln-Losi-Parts-By-Car-cln-Losi-8IGHT-2.0-RTR-cln-Shocks/Categories
As for the flying, blipping the throttle mid-air will bring the nose back up.
Show871
10-24-2009, 10:43 PM
Shock parts:
http://www.losipartshouse.com/servlet/the-Losi-Parts-House-cln-Losi-Parts-By-Car-cln-Losi-8IGHT-2.0-RTR-cln-Shocks/Categories
As for the flying, blipping the throttle mid-air will bring the nose back up.
Thanks....yea I hear ya on the panic rev....I was wondering if car setup in general would cause this and how to readjust to be better
Thanks! 871
madweazl
10-25-2009, 01:48 PM
Thanks....yea I hear ya on the panic rev....I was wondering if car setup in general would cause this and how to readjust to be better
Thanks! 871
55s are on the car out of the box. As for nose down, my car was doing that as well. I raised the rear end a little bit and that took care of the problem. Since then I switched to the Drake baseline setup and I dont have any problems.
Show871
10-25-2009, 03:32 PM
55s are on the car out of the box. As for nose down, my car was doing that as well. I raised the rear end a little bit and that took care of the problem. Since then I switched to the Drake baseline setup and I dont have any problems.
Cool, I give that a shot......thanks!
su3zero
11-18-2009, 11:23 AM
hello there...
it the durability of losi 350 engine good?
nitrojunkie
11-20-2009, 04:15 PM
I didn't see a thread for this RTR, so here is a new thread.
I blew out the throttle servo (270) after a few tanks, and bought the 650. Now that servo is non-functional (650). There appears to be nothing catching that would cause the servo to strain any more than normal.
I've had xxx-t's for awhile and love them. This is my first journey into Nitro's. Any suggestions on what could be causing this?
same thing happened today to me, my truck was new yesturday... hhhmmmmm
losiracer410
11-20-2009, 05:06 PM
I ran the jr 650 for throttle for a bout 3 years in my losi 8 and didnt have any problems I only had to change them out if someone t-boned me really hard on the lingcage side I dont currently use them because i needed something faster 9100s
nitrojunkie
11-25-2009, 03:59 PM
i replaced it with a spectrum ds821... they are cheap and hold 80oz with 6 volts... i had to shim it up a touch because the case was a little deeper and had the same spline as the origanal jr... you can find these servos fairly cheap
jaybuc
12-03-2009, 02:01 PM
I am looking to get the 8ight 2.0 rtr as my first nitro buggy...what parts can be upgraded on the rtr to match the roller? I want to use this buggy to "learn" on then upgrade it as I go to make it more competitive.
LVBaja
12-03-2009, 04:37 PM
Great choice for an RTR! The good thing about the 8ight 2.0 RTR is that, from a setup standpoint, it's very similar to the race roller. You can set it up the same and it will handle and react much like the race roller on the track. This is not an end-all list, but here are a few things you may consider upgrading as you break/wear/maintain you new buggy:
Clutch shoes & springs - the RTR comes with only 2 clutch shoes and springs; the race roller has four
Shock caps - RTR comes with plastic; RR comes with aluminum
Chassis - RR comes with tuned flex chassis that will make the car handle better
Shock towers - RR shock towers are lighter and have more tuning options (holes for camber links and shock mounting)
Engine - The RTR engine is decent (I know a few pros that actually race with them), but it won't last forever, so you'll eventually have to get yourself a race engine.
Tuned pipe - Get one that the manufacturer of your engine recommends for that particular engine.
Aluminum servo saver top - the RR has plastic too, but this is a weak link in the steering system that most upgrade right away
Aluminum servo horn (steering) - Another weak link in the steering system that most people upgrade right away.
WingWrecker
12-03-2009, 05:45 PM
Good reply LVBAJA.
But don't forget the servos themselves. The steering servo on the RTR is crap for steering, but fine for throttle. The stock throttle servo is just crap in general and you may as well junk it from the get-go. Get a good steering servo and move the stock steering servo to the throttle.
I've an ACE 1015 on mine and so far no complaints. You can get one of those for under $100. Or you can opt for brand name for about $150 to $200.
Also, consider the turbo head button for the Losi 350. That combined with the RE11 pipe make a HUGE difference with this engine. I broke mine in stock and switched to the turbo and RE11 and about pissed myself at the difference it made...
LVBaja
12-04-2009, 10:54 AM
You're absolutely right about the servos Wing. I thought of that later after I had already logged off my computer.
jaybuc
12-04-2009, 08:30 PM
Great choice for an RTR! The good thing about the 8ight 2.0 RTR is that, from a setup standpoint, it's very similar to the race roller. You can set it up the same and it will handle and react much like the race roller on the track. This is not an end-all list, but here are a few things you may consider upgrading as you break/wear/maintain you new buggy:
Clutch shoes & springs - the RTR comes with only 2 clutch shoes and springs; the race roller has four
Shock caps - RTR comes with plastic; RR comes with aluminum
Chassis - RR comes with tuned flex chassis that will make the car handle better
Shock towers - RR shock towers are lighter and have more tuning options (holes for camber links and shock mounting)
Engine - The RTR engine is decent (I know a few pros that actually race with them), but it won't last forever, so you'll eventually have to get yourself a race engine.
Tuned pipe - Get one that the manufacturer of your engine recommends for that particular engine.
Aluminum servo saver top - the RR has plastic too, but this is a weak link in the steering system that most upgrade right away
Aluminum servo horn (steering) - Another weak link in the steering system that most people upgrade right away.
How many gallons should the stock engine last?
LVBaja
12-07-2009, 09:30 AM
I don't know the answer to that, as I've never run one before. The guy I know that runs them doesn't keep track of how many gallons he's run through them.
starter box is fine, engine just is being wierd and taking awhile to turn over. could this be cause my battery is running low in starter box or my clutch is worn? What are the signs of needing a new clutch? Anyone else having problems with starting the engine?
jshbetz11
12-30-2009, 03:34 PM
charge up your starter box batteries. I always charge box batteries everytime before I go out. I can't see the clutch getting in the way of an mill firing unless the shoes are engaged somehow. Make sure your igniter battery is fully charged or new. Don't forget the usual suspects.
charge up your starter box batteries. I always charge box batteries everytime before I go out. I can't see the clutch getting in the way of an mill firing unless the shoes are engaged somehow. Make sure your igniter battery is fully charged or new. Don't forget the usual suspects.
Thanks this was the cause, last night charged both and started up immediately today. Sweet new track setup at rotunda west, fl!!! Clay I have to say is the dirtiest though
37RACING
01-01-2010, 02:08 PM
Is there a difference between the 1.0 and 2.0 buggy body?Also with smart diff is it a way to tune buggy with springs and collar instead of diff oils?
thevinchong
01-03-2010, 07:44 AM
Just installed OS V spec B motor on my 8ight 2.0 RTR,is LOSI RE 11 tuned suitable for this motor ?:confused::confused:
Neobart
01-04-2010, 07:26 AM
The vspec will run great with a re11, it's an almost carbon copy of a O.S. 2050.
motorH8er
01-04-2010, 10:20 AM
My pinch was pretty bad. It's finally loosened up now, but my flywheel is pretty chewed up. Gotta look into ordering a new one.
On a side note, I just got a new Stampede VXL a couple days ago.. What a blast this little brute is!! Gonna try 3s on it today.
did you get any mesurements of how bad your pinch was?
i got a x-mas gift of a brand new losi 8ight 2.0 buggy and i cant get it to start/turn over... was yours that bad?.
i might start a thread on this problem...
anything you can tell me that might help would be wonderful!!!!!.
thanks..
EDIT: nvm dude dont bother responding to this message..
i got a new part that is not (STUCK to the point of not running)
have a good (imput next holiday here) :):)
phantomraider
01-11-2010, 08:04 AM
what are some good mid/top end hopups for a losi 2.0 rtr buggy?.
what is better for racing low/mid or topend?.
thanks :)
from :)
the :)
phantom :)
phantomrandom
01-15-2010, 10:19 AM
hey yall this is a repost of my last message i have gotton no messages on the matter so far and i am looking for some easy mods/hopups for the losi 2.0 buggy is there any parts that any one can recommend? i might get into racing and if i do i would like to have a compeditive car...
Robert "Wick" Wickham
01-15-2010, 11:13 AM
hey yall this is a repost of my last message i have gotton no messages on the matter so far and i am looking for some easy mods/hopups for the losi 2.0 buggy is there any parts that any one can recommend? i might get into racing and if i do i would like to have a compeditive car...
All I run is the front and rear adjustable hinge pins and the aluminum rear hubs. :)
LVBaja
01-15-2010, 11:57 AM
Is there a difference between the 1.0 and 2.0 buggy body?Also with smart diff is it a way to tune buggy with springs and collar instead of diff oils?
Yes, the 2.0 body is slightly longer and has a lower rear end to expose more of the engine for cooling. They are interchangable though, as long as you ream out the rear body mounting hole a bit.
Yes, smart diffs are filled with grease instead of oil, so you tune them by changing the springs. Stiffer springs act like lighter weight oil in a standard diff. Conversely, softer springs act like heavier weight oil in a standard diff.
LVBaja
01-15-2010, 12:07 PM
what are some good mid/top end hopups for a losi 2.0 rtr buggy?.
what is better for racing low/mid or topend?.
thanks :)
from :)
the :)
phantom :)
Here are a few items that would be good upgrades for your RTR, assuming you're interested in racing it. They're not absolutely necessary for racing, but they will improve the performance and durability of the car.
BCE chassis - lighter and tuned to flex in just the right spots to improve handling
http://shop.bcespeed.com/product.sc;jsessionid=858568D0BCC6E7A42D25DB95B0FD DD2E.qscstrfrnt01?productId=2&categoryId=1
AKA tires - Cityblocks work on just about any track surface. Get Medium or Soft compound to start with. You'll be amazed at the traction and the long wear of these tires.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/27993/n/AKA-Racing-Pre-Mounted-City-Block-1-8-Buggy-Tires-Medium-2
Losi aluminum servo saver top
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/13549/n/Team-Losi-8ight-Servo-Saver-Top-Aluminum-8B-8T-10-20
Losi aluminum servo horn
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/13551/n/Team-Losi-Aluminum-Servo-Arm-JR
TKO special clutch bearings - last multiple times longer than traditional bearings
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/25848/n/TKO-Special-5x13mm-Losi-Inner-Clutch-Bearing-1
King Headz aluminum rear hubs - stronger and have larger outer bearings that will last a lot longer than the stock 8x14x4 bearings
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/138108/n/King-Headz-Losi-8-B-T-20-Rear-Wheel-Hubs
High quality servos
There are multiple manufacturers with many different models. Hitec and JR are probably the most widely used by racers.
Dynamite Max-Life clutch shoes - the RTR comes with 2, you'll need 4. Use 2 Losi green springs and 2 Losi gold springs
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/13814/n/Dynamite-Max-Life-8ight-Aluminum-Clutch-Shoes-Set-4
Hope this helps.
VANAIR
01-15-2010, 02:21 PM
i have been racing for awhile and have seen what breaks on these cars. so starting on hopups to fix those issue's first.
losa4441 alum servo saver arm
losa99030 jr alum servo arm
that would be the first items i would get as the steering is under alot of stress. thats all i would worry about
TEXAS MOE
01-15-2010, 08:38 PM
I just got my 8 2.0 rtr 2 weeks ago and I love it, My last RC was a xxt when they first came out, its been awhile since a played around with an rc. I cant believe how good this 2.0 drives
sluggoman
01-19-2010, 04:44 AM
I'm wondering if you can help me with an engine question. I was taking apart my 350cc motor. When I got to the piston and piston sleeve, I have not been able to get it out of the motor. I don't want to use any force, as I'm worried about damage. I've had a couple losi racers look at it, and they can't seem to figure it out either. We've even tried heating up the engine with a heat gun.
Any ideas?
Rookie
01-19-2010, 06:49 AM
have you tried using a zip tie through the exhaust port of the motor and into the sleeve? then rotate the piston to help push the sleeve up out of the case? If that has not worked you can use a heat gun to warm the motor, but I would suggest not getting it overly hot, the metal of the sleeve will react the same way it does when the motor is running. If you overly heat the sleeve and pry on it this can cause damage to it. Use some WD40 sprayed in from the bottom of the motor around the sleeve and heat slightly then use the zip tie method to pop the piston out of the housing.
This is only if you have not been successful with the standard menthod.
phantomrandom
01-20-2010, 11:47 AM
Here are a few items that would be good upgrades for your RTR, assuming you're interested in racing it. They're not absolutely necessary for racing, but they will improve the performance and durability of the car.
BCE chassis - lighter and tuned to flex in just the right spots to improve handling
http://shop.bcespeed.com/product.sc;jsessionid=858568D0BCC6E7A42D25DB95B0FD DD2E.qscstrfrnt01?productId=2&categoryId=1
AKA tires - Cityblocks work on just about any track surface. Get Medium or Soft compound to start with. You'll be amazed at the traction and the long wear of these tires.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/27993/n/AKA-Racing-Pre-Mounted-City-Block-1-8-Buggy-Tires-Medium-2
Losi aluminum servo saver top
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/13549/n/Team-Losi-8ight-Servo-Saver-Top-Aluminum-8B-8T-10-20
Losi aluminum servo horn
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/13551/n/Team-Losi-Aluminum-Servo-Arm-JR
TKO special clutch bearings - last multiple times longer than traditional bearings
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/25848/n/TKO-Special-5x13mm-Losi-Inner-Clutch-Bearing-1
King Headz aluminum rear hubs - stronger and have larger outer bearings that will last a lot longer than the stock 8x14x4 bearings
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/138108/n/King-Headz-Losi-8-B-T-20-Rear-Wheel-Hubs
High quality servos
There are multiple manufacturers with many different models. Hitec and JR are probably the most widely used by racers.
Dynamite Max-Life clutch shoes - the RTR comes with 2, you'll need 4. Use 2 Losi green springs and 2 Losi gold springs
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/13814/n/Dynamite-Max-Life-8ight-Aluminum-Clutch-Shoes-Set-4
Hope this helps.
ok thanks dude..
what what motor/motor hopups do you use?
thanks again..:)
Token
02-01-2010, 09:05 AM
ok thanks dude..
what what motor/motor hopups do you use?
thanks again..:)
Now to each is own, but why would you want to make it "lighter" than what it is. Its the 8 series one of the lightest buggies out there? Isnt there are weight min/max for these in competiton? I just ues Protech Dollar bearing. no matter what bearing I have used from "special" to Ceramic - I still change them be for mains....... Not saying they are no good, but the King head hubs are expensive, again protect dollar bearings.. I dont see many people running the king head hubs.... IDK Servos Hitec HV - JRs are just to expensive..
Engines are really up to you and how much you want to spend. Each Manufactor has a bottom, Middle, and high end line and they are ALL comparable. Orion, RB, NOVA, OS ( even tho they are not making VSPEC any more) Reedy, Ninja - is what alot of PROs run... And if you are going to get a high end engine, makes sure you get a matching pipe for it....
j-ch1998
02-01-2010, 07:58 PM
Sluggoman i had the same problem with my new truggy i got five tanks threw it and the throttle servo quit. The local hobby store said i should switch to the metal geared hi-tec servos. My buddy has these on his savage and has had nothing but problems with them does anyone have any experience with the futaba servos or the spectrum servos?
Token
02-03-2010, 01:50 PM
Sluggoman i had the same problem with my new truggy i got five tanks threw it and the throttle servo quit. The local hobby store said i should switch to the metal geared hi-tec servos. My buddy has these on his savage and has had nothing but problems with them does anyone have any experience with the futaba servos or the spectrum servos?
Good Hitec just not metal gear, look at the 7955. 7950 servos..... If your pal is having problems - He may not have the EPA or linkage set right
Im a newbie so please excuse me, but can anyone help with tips on properly securing the flywheel and clutch nut? my wheel keeps slipping after i start, it end my day and this seems to have started with no reason.. i tried lock tight but still one start and then the fly wheel loosens..has this happend to anyone else
please help
thanx you
XxDrEvilxX
02-04-2010, 05:44 AM
I have had my 2.0 RTR for about a week now, gone through the 3 tank break in period and absolutely love this car :D, but is there some kind of warm up procedure when getting ready to run the car? Thanks Matt
cdbias
02-04-2010, 05:46 AM
Hold the flywheel with pliers when you tighten down the nut. If thats still not working you can use a zip tie. Put the zip tie through the exhaust port to where it stops the piston from going to the top of the chamber. You can then snug up with flywheel nut with no problem. Make sure you still use a little bit of blue thread lock though.
Token
02-04-2010, 11:14 AM
I have had my 2.0 RTR for about a week now, gone through the 3 tank break in period and absolutely love this car :D, but is there some kind of warm up procedure when getting ready to run the car? Thanks Matt
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/295491-break-bible.html
I cant speak for everyone but I will start my car and while on the starter box, let it warm up get it to at lease 150 degrees, if its really cold like under say 60 outside, i will use a heat gun before starting...... I feel my engines last a little longer this way. When your finished make sure the piston is at BDC so the sleeve can cool and shrink alittle.. You will notice that the pinch will last longer also
Ok, i figured it out, it was my Collet.. It stripped down and was not catching. I replaced it and the Clutch Nut and now im all good..
Going to 30% this week, any tips before i dive in??
XxDrEvilxX
02-05-2010, 05:00 AM
I have noticed by looking at the pictures that most of you are running green springs on the rear, are those the recommended springs for the buggy? Thanks Matt
cdbias
02-05-2010, 10:58 AM
Green rear springs are the base setup from Drake and Truhe. The RTR version comes with the silver springs. For racing I would go with the green rear and silver front. If you start with the base "Truhe/Drake" setup you will never have to go far from there.:)
XxDrEvilxX
02-05-2010, 11:09 AM
Thanks Casey
Hello all.. im new to the RC game and have some questions regarding my right B 2.0
I read that one of the first things i need to do beside setting the failsafe is buy a fuel filter and a motor saver air filter.
My question is where would i install a fuel filter and how? also what kind is good
and those motor saver filters look waaay to big to fit under the 2.0 body, are there other good ones or can i use a smaller 1/10 filter??
any suggestions on how to go about doing these would be greatly appreciated
thanx
Neobart
02-10-2010, 03:51 AM
Who have you that advice? None of them are necessary. The clunk in the tank is a stone filter, so no extra fuel filter needed. And the stock air filter is just fine.
same said my intuition?? But i also heard a guy mention that Drake runs a fuel filter so i figured i t must be good..
thanx
I broke my RTR in with 20% per instructions and have run about 3 quart through it, my tuning skills appear to great after watching hours of tuning tutorials and reading through forums.
But, my local Hobby shop never seems to have the 20% in quarts anymore and said they dont know when they will get more, plus i hated running back to the store after going through a quart, not to mention how much fuel i spilled with those quart cans :/
and NOBODY has 20% Gallons for sale... Sooo i decided to upgrade to 30% as it is available consistently at my LHS and comes in Gallons..
My question is: I was thinking of upgrading the head shims with the 350 Turbo heads prior to using the 30%, but i havent made the purchase yet, will this make any difference or can i just start the break-in tunning process with the new fuel?
im a bit worried that i may need a 3rd shim for the fuel upgrade, i know the turbo comes with 3 so thats also apart of my logic..
any suggestions on this process??
thanx you
twiant
02-10-2010, 03:31 PM
looks nice
Angelo D
02-24-2010, 07:20 PM
there is no need to run a fuel filter.. reason drake runs one is prob fuel mileage.. its like a extra tank to on a couple of onces.. and for the air filter.. stock one is prob the best bescause the way it fits in the car and under the body. however i run lucky 7 air filter they r rib. it has more surface area..
randyskyba
03-14-2010, 03:25 PM
Hi,
I just bought a new Eight 2.0 Buggy and cannot get it to start. the glow plug is bright orange when I test it. I think the problem is what wheel under the car the starter box is turning. When I set-up the car alignment on the starter box with the rear of the car at the end of the starter box that moves up and down it is hard to align the starter box wheel with the blue flywheel under the car. The rubber wheel appears to be too wide in circumfrance and is wearing off excessively and not turning the blue wheel. I can turn the car around and make the starter box turn the wheel that has the large teeth (the wheels on the car move when I engage the starer box).
Am I engaging ther correct wheel under the car?
I am new to RC cars, so your help would be appreciated.
Token
03-15-2010, 07:33 AM
make sure the fly wheel is tight. You should not have to modify the box.
cdbias
03-15-2010, 05:02 PM
Is it a Losi starter box? If it isn't them you may have to sand down the edges of the rubber starter wheel so that you get your chassis clearance.
Grimlock
03-15-2010, 05:58 PM
It just takes a while to line things up correctly. It isn't very fun to set up either, so set it up once right and crank down the screws for the pegs. I usually just use a flashlight and fiddle around with it until it matches up. Since you have a new engine, I would do it with the glow plug removed so you can crank the engine super easily. That way you know when it is properly aligned with far less headaches. You shouldn't need to modify anything for it to work.
smgrajeda
03-21-2010, 09:39 PM
Newbie to RC. Just got my Losi rtr buggy Friday and I have only been able to start it once. It ran for 1 min, and that was it. I have been using a heat gun to warm it up because of the flywheel pinch, which I heard is very common for the 350 engine. I have to loosen the glow plug when its in just a smidge because the flywheel still won't spin very well. I have everything at stock settings. Don't know what to do.
Any help would be appreciated.
I think there might be a clog in the carb, there is air bubbles in the fuel line, Ill try again tomorrow.
Thanks,
Steve
Grimlock
03-22-2010, 09:15 AM
Sounds like the stuff you are mentioning is fairly normal. Have you tried replacing the plug? The plug goes bad on these engines often on the first tank or two due to metal bonding to it. It may even appear to be working fine, and not be performing correctly. Otherwise it sounds like you are going all the right things (heat gun, remove plug to rotate flywheel, etc.)
Do you live close to the hobby shop where you purchased it? Maybe they can help you get it going.
The good news is after 10 tanks or so you should have far less issues. I highly recommend that when you do get it fired up that you wrap the heat sink with aluminum foil and a sock and get the engine up to around 250 degrees and then kill the engine. Once it completely cools, repeat that. Do this about 5 times and you engine will probably give you far less issues.
madweazl
03-22-2010, 08:45 PM
I've got around 4 gallons on the 350 now and it's still going strong. Amazing power plant for the money. I'd like a little more runtime but I have zero complaints (turbo button with an RE11 on 30%).
I just started running the GRP Tuned but thus far am unimpressed.
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy72/madweazl/023.jpg?t=1269315750
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy72/madweazl/rccars179.jpg?t=1269315815
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy72/madweazl/buggy.jpg?t=1269315853
http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/yy72/madweazl/bugchas.jpg?t=1269315915
smgrajeda
03-22-2010, 10:06 PM
I highly recommend that when you do get it fired up that you wrap the heat sink with aluminum foil and a sock and get the engine up to around 250 degrees and then kill the engine. Once it completely cools, repeat that. Do this about 5 times and you engine will probably give you far less issues.
Before break in, or after?
madweazl
03-23-2010, 06:55 AM
Before break in, or after?
That would be initial break in (heat cycle method).
When in doubt, read the manual.
smgrajeda
03-23-2010, 08:35 AM
That would be initial break in (heat cycle method).
When in doubt, read the manual.
I was referring to Grimlock's technique of using a sock and getting the temp up to 250 degrees, then shutting it off. This is not found in the manual, nor is it in the manual to use a heat gun, or to look out for flywheel pinch. I am new to this and I do not want to make any costly mistakes so Ill take any good advice you got because I am eager to get going.
Thanks,
Steve
chicostanley
03-23-2010, 09:56 AM
I have a Losi 8 RTR and the servo saver keeps eating up servo gears. The saver seems way to tight and I have changed the spring to the lighter one and it has the aluminum upper servo arm. What is the fix for this? I am very frustrated and want to give up. Please help before I sell it. Thank you for your input.
Grimlock
03-23-2010, 10:02 AM
Before break in, or after?
That is to break it in. It is the Heat Cycle Method.
Grimlock
03-23-2010, 10:04 AM
I have a Losi 8 RTR and the servo saver keeps eating up servo gears. The saver seems way to tight and I have changed the spring to the lighter one and it has the aluminum upper servo arm. What is the fix for this? I am very frustrated and want to give up. Please help before I sell it. Thank you for your input.
Have you tried replacing your steering servo (or both servos) with something really high quality like a Hitec 7955? It is a wise investment to get some really good servos (especially the steering). You should be able to shop around and find the 7955 for $100. Then you problems will likely stop.
The stock servo is garbage, have you been replacing it with the factory servo?
smgrajeda
03-23-2010, 11:50 AM
Ok, thanks, most of the terminoligy is new to me. Ill update once I get this thing working.
madweazl
03-23-2010, 04:34 PM
I was referring to Grimlock's technique of using a sock and getting the temp up to 250 degrees, then shutting it off. This is not found in the manual, nor is it in the manual to use a heat gun, or to look out for flywheel pinch. I am new to this and I do not want to make any costly mistakes so Ill take any good advice you got because I am eager to get going.
Thanks,
Steve
Already answered but Grimlock posted the heat cycle method.
The read the manual comment is just that, if you arent sure about something, check out the manual and use the method they recommend :)
smgrajeda
03-24-2010, 07:18 AM
Already answered but Grimlock posted the heat cycle method.
The read the manual comment is just that, if you arent sure about something, check out the manual and use the method they recommend :)
My problem right now is getting the **** buggy started, I got it started once 3 days ago and it haven't been able to do it again. Took it to a friend and he couldn't and he had a higher torque starter. Going to the local shop today to see if they can help me out.
Grimlock
03-24-2010, 08:14 AM
Have you replaced the plug and reset the carb settings to the manual pre-sets?
smgrajeda
03-24-2010, 10:44 AM
Have you replaced the plug and reset the carb settings to the manual pre-sets?
Yup, gone through 3 plugs, reset several times, changed idle? I bought a new ignitor last night (dont think my losi ignitor is strong enough), will try it out today. Do you know where the idle setting should be, like how many turns out. I've messed with it so much that I don't know where the stock setting was.
Steve
Grimlock
03-24-2010, 11:03 AM
With the carb in the fully closed position you should probably start with a gap of about 1mm. Remove the air cleaner and look down the barrel of the carb and try to get it around 1mm.
smgrajeda
03-24-2010, 10:33 PM
With the carb in the fully closed position you should probably start with a gap of about 1mm. Remove the air cleaner and look down the barrel of the carb and try to get it around 1mm.
Alright, finally got it running. A couple issues were resolved: 1. stock lean/rich settings for break in recommend by LOSI were not allowing enough fuel through. 2. My Losi ignitor was not sufficiently heating the glow plug, even after a full charge (bought a different one which worked fabulously). 3: Used a friend's starter with more torque (losi rtr starter did not provide sufficient torque) to turn the flywheel with massive pinch even after warming with a heat gun.
I was able to do the first part of the heat cycle method as recommended by forum members, will finish the last 15 min tomorrow.
Thanks for all of the advice and help.
Steve
Grimlock
03-25-2010, 09:48 AM
Are you running a Lipo with the starter box? That might fix your starter box issues! Mine works flawlessly with a lipo.
smgrajeda
03-25-2010, 12:19 PM
No Lipo, but I have a spare motorcycle battery that Ill be using as back up.
madweazl
03-25-2010, 06:54 PM
I didnt have any issues with my RTR starter box with the 6 cell packs but the batteries didnt last as long as I'd hoped (cheap Protek 3000s) at about 6 months. I swapped over to Li-Po and am very happy; things are monsters ($23 4s 3000s from HobbyKing).
Grimlock
03-25-2010, 07:13 PM
Yeah once you get a Lipo in the Losi starter box you will stop having any issues! My starts perfectly every time.
smgrajeda
03-27-2010, 07:23 PM
Yeah once you get a Lipo in the Losi starter box you will stop having any issues! My starts perfectly every time.
Everything is all good now, the 8ight is broken in, tuned, and the starter works on it without a heat gun. Thanks guys! :D
Steve
Robert Blount
03-28-2010, 08:38 AM
I agree the starter box is fine once the engine is broken in. The stock tuning was off a bit. I like to run a lil rich anyways and being here in Ohio I think thats the norm.
smgrajeda
03-29-2010, 03:13 PM
I agree the starter box is fine once the engine is broken in. The stock tuning was off a bit. I like to run a lil rich anyways and being here in Ohio I think thats the norm.
Anyone know of a good spring kit for this buggy, or do I have do buy them individually? Is there any other brand of springs that work other than losi?
Steve
Grimlock
03-29-2010, 04:03 PM
From the Losi parts sheet with listed prices:
LOSA5446 Front Spring Set (6): 8B/8T...................................$36.99
LOSA5447 Rear Spring Set (7): 8B/8T...................................$42.99
smgrajeda
03-30-2010, 07:22 AM
Any recommended aftermarket shock standoffs? One of mine broke, its poorly designed compared to my friends RC8 shock standoff.
Foster133
04-06-2010, 11:26 AM
what would the benifits be from moving to the stock two shoe clutch to a four shoe clutch? what the differance?
Grimlock
04-06-2010, 04:55 PM
what would the benifits be from moving to the stock two shoe clutch to a four shoe clutch? what the differance?
The stock clutch should be a 4-shoe!
TEXAS MOE
04-06-2010, 05:40 PM
2 shoe clutch setup comes on an rtr
Grimlock
04-06-2010, 06:38 PM
2 shoe clutch setup comes on an rtr
Good to know. I didn't know there was a 2-shoe clutch for the 8ight, period.
TEXAS MOE
04-06-2010, 07:58 PM
the clutch is the same as a race roller minus 2 shoes. easy to upgade. i guess its a was for losi to save money.
Foster133
04-07-2010, 08:48 AM
the clutch is the same as a race roller minus 2 shoes. easy to upgade. i guess its a was for losi to save money.
so whats the differance? just the amount of grab?
smgrajeda
04-07-2010, 11:59 AM
Throttle servo broke after 2.5 quarts, called losi, they are sending me another one, same model. :( I was hoping they would send me a better one, as one member said they did. Losi rep said he hasn't heard of any issues with the throttle servo.
Foster133
04-07-2010, 12:28 PM
Throttle servo broke after 2.5 quarts, called losi, they are sending me another one, same model. :( I was hoping they would send me a better one, as one member said they did. Losi rep said he hasn't heard of any issues with the throttle servo.
mine broke yesterday... only had it 2 days.... theyre sending me the same one and he said " wow i havnt heard of the throttle servo going out" and he tried to blame it on me. but i already upgraded yester day to a hi-tec metal geared servo for about 60 bucks
Grimlock
04-07-2010, 03:39 PM
They are lying to you if they say they have never heard of servo issues on the RTR vehicles!
Foster133
04-07-2010, 04:09 PM
They are lying to you if they say they have never heard of servo issues on the RTR vehicles!
yeah.... they lied:mad:
Foster133
04-08-2010, 02:12 PM
tuning this car is giving me alot of trouble! With the stock settings the car wont even start so those are out the door.. i can get it to start just fine and i have probably 3/4 gallon threw it of traxxas top fuel 20%.. today i got 1/2 gallon of Bryons race gen2 fuel 20% .... i havnt used it yet but is the fuel the reason its hard to tune??? what are you guys using as your settings for low and high speed?? i can get mine to run but way to rich, blowing smoke everywhere and spitting fuel. any leaner it doesnt even start
TEXAS MOE
04-08-2010, 06:19 PM
mine started just fine on the stock setting just fine. you may have to fiddle with the setting alittle.
I got almost 2 gallons through it now, its impressive for an rtr motor
Grimlock
04-08-2010, 06:39 PM
I suspect there might be an issue like an air leak causing you the problems.
Grimlock
04-08-2010, 06:44 PM
Also as a side note, I see the servo you have listed for you 8ight, and it really is not even close to being up to the task. You really want to run something with over 300oz of torque, and that one is under 100oz. I suspect it won't last at all. The Hitec 7955 has over 330oz of torque at the same voltage that the 625 has 94oz. Plus you can run the 7955 unregulated at 7.4V if you move to a Lipo receiver battery.
Foster133
04-08-2010, 08:27 PM
Also as a side note, I see the servo you have listed for you 8ight, and it really is not even close to being up to the task. You really want to run something with over 300oz of torque, and that one is under 100oz. I suspect it won't last at all. The Hitec 7955 has over 330oz of torque at the same voltage that the 625 has 94oz. Plus you can run the 7955 unregulated at 7.4V if you move to a Lipo receiver battery.
hmm good to know :) i actually got the 625 20 minutes before the main...
http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae155/bdrummer133/DSC_0022-1.jpg
Needless to say it did the job ;) ..... for now at least
smgrajeda
04-08-2010, 10:57 PM
Also as a side note, I see the servo you have listed for you 8ight, and it really is not even close to being up to the task. You really want to run something with over 300oz of torque, and that one is under 100oz. I suspect it won't last at all. The Hitec 7955 has over 330oz of torque at the same voltage that the 625 has 94oz. Plus you can run the 7955 unregulated at 7.4V if you move to a Lipo receiver battery.
I got the 7954sh, moved the steering servo to the throttle/brake, and put this one in for the steering.
Steve
macro junkie
04-09-2010, 05:05 AM
They are lying to you if they say they have never heard of servo issues on the RTR vehicles!
i agree.sad really..you would think they would be honest..sending out the same servo as a replacement isnt going to solve the customers problem..its going to prolong it until he will get another call with the same problem.
WAKE UP LOSI!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!LEARN FROM YOUR MISTAKES!!!!
Im sure if they ever bring out a 3.0 RTR they wont make the same mistakes..it wont surprise me if they do tho..iv allready seen this happen with Hobao hyper 7.5.they would brake in the hyper 7.0 then a year later they bring out a very good beginners RTR 1/8th scale buggy with plastic geared servos.:eek::rolleyes: they dont seem to be learning from there mistakes.
JBURCH
04-14-2010, 10:27 AM
hmm good to know :) i actually got the 625 20 minutes before the main...
http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae155/bdrummer133/DSC_0022-1.jpg
Needless to say it did the job ;) ..... for now at least
What did they let you take pictures of the trophies before the race, seems pretty hard to win 4 places LOL, specially with no fuel used since you just got that 1/2 gallon and car is sure clean after racing LOL
Foster133
04-14-2010, 02:51 PM
What did they let you take pictures of the trophies before the race, seems pretty hard to win 4 places LOL, specially with no fuel used since you just got that 1/2 gallon and car is sure clean after racing LOL
yup yup would be hard.. these are my 2 quarts (gone now) but i used traxxas crud in the race and i raced 2 classes(buggy, buggy/truggy) and the two others i got 2 weeks ago with the same stock losi 8ight 2.0 rtr thus the two big trophies and 2 little... also i clean my cars.. i take time and make it look like this after every time i race. lots of wiping and cleaner and wiping. then i use stuff i have from motocross (my main sport) that ive been doing for 10 years now.. its called maxima sc1 clear coat, spray on body and and wheels lets sit and whipe off.. tada brand new looking body
Lapper
04-14-2010, 03:17 PM
Is that a zip tie around the wing support? What's that for?...just curious.
Foster133
04-14-2010, 09:08 PM
Is that a zip tie around the wing support? What's that for?...just curious.
two wing bolts vibrated out.. there on order right now... zip tie was a quick fix to hold the wing on
Lapper
04-15-2010, 03:13 PM
Cool....yeah I was just curious...good fix. Sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do...lol.
Foster133
04-17-2010, 10:27 AM
i just got the losi 8 in 1 wrench set and i gotta say that babys pretty handy
macscac
06-29-2010, 03:55 PM
need some advice please..
first..
have about half gallon through my RTR engine..
background.. ran 3 x 3min heat cycles. then 4 tanks of 180-200degree back and forth down my street at low to med throttle.
then about 7 tanks fairly rich at the track.
was having some folks try to tune it up at the track the other nite and i kept hitting temps in the 270's. and it was still rich.
one of the fellows thinks i have an air leak somewhere.
he told me to run it half tank to get it good and warm and then to spray carb cleaner on the lsn and where the carb connects to the motor and see if it sucks in.
problem is, i cant tell if its sucking in or not.
what should i do?
also, is it normal for temps to be in the 220-230's while running and then if its just sitting idling, to creep into the 250-260's ?
seems high to me so im stopping the flywheel if its going to be stopped for more than a moment
macscac
06-29-2010, 11:40 PM
found the leak. its where the carb goes in..
i got some carb seal
cdbias
07-20-2010, 07:01 PM
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Please remove this spammer. Can't be good for the site.
badjab
07-25-2010, 10:32 PM
has anyone gotten there bad servo replaced by horizon hobby (losi) and what is the best servo for under 90 bucks for my rtr
KevinM
07-26-2010, 09:27 PM
Transmiitters for the RTRs? I have the transmitter for the Buggy and Truggy RTR. I bound both cars to one transmitter and a friend drove my buggy of a race and he informed me that my transmitter is loosing control of the car. When i drove my truggy i saw what he ment the car would not respond when throttle or steering demand on the track. But on the pit stand i found no problems. What could be the problem? I hear the reciever may be bad or the telementry recievers are not reliable?
I dont want to spend the bucks for a new transmitter system if i dont have to. Is there something wrong with the RTR transmitters or recievers?
cdbias
07-28-2010, 08:02 PM
Is it happening with the buggy and the truggy?
Make sure that all batteries are charged and the servo saver nut isn't backed all the way off.
Also, if your still using the plastic servo arm insert on steering I would suggest you get one of the Losi aluminum servo arms. The plastic inserts will strip after some hard crashes. If it loose's just one of the splines inside you will have problems similar to what you described.
KevinM
07-29-2010, 10:36 PM
Is it happening with the buggy and the truggy?
Make sure that all batteries are charged and the servo saver nut isn't backed all the way off.
Also, if your still using the plastic servo arm insert on steering I would suggest you get one of the Losi aluminum servo arms. The plastic inserts will strip after some hard crashes. If it loose's just one of the splines inside you will have problems similar to what you described.
Yea it was happening on both buggy and truggy. I am going to change out the steering servo on truggy and reciever to futaba and see what that does for me. We have a club race this sat and ill find out how it does.
aci155
07-30-2010, 04:27 PM
i have fried 4 servos in one day so i need help :S i charged mythat the yellow wire of the steering servo was exposed.on the same day's night i replaced the batt(of the losi rtr-1400mah 6V) over night(with a 3 in1 charge) and the next day i tried to run my buggy , in the first half tank the steering servo stopped responding , a min later the second servo and the receiver were dead..i found servos , when i tried to center the servos they stopped working :S fried too. It doesnt make sense!
KevinM
08-02-2010, 04:03 AM
Ok i took out my spectrum reciever and put in Futaba 3ch so far no problems. Though i did find that my servo saver did back off and this made my whole steering linkage bind up. Readjusted and ran race perfectly.
cdbias
08-02-2010, 12:22 PM
Use a little bit of blue thread lock on the servo saver threads. It will help prevent it from backing off in the future. Glad you got your problem solved!
josefmd
08-03-2010, 08:40 PM
I am picking up a 8ight 2.0 RTR buggy this Saturday. I can't wait to start the break-in, and to run it at my local track. Thanks to this forum I have been steered in the right direction with regards to the issues with the starter box(lipo vs nimh), steering servo, servo horn/saver, and the common problem guys have had with the break-in process. It's been awhile since I have owned a nitro car, but have some good experience with 2-stoke, and FS airplance motors. I am currently racing a ae SC10, and I know the 8eight buggy well give me many challenges. But with all ur help, I am sure the process will be smoothed out a lot.
Matt
josefmd
08-10-2010, 09:13 PM
Well I have run a half gallon thru my buggy and it's finally running fairly well. I took it to the track for some pratice laps and had a blast! So far so good on the stock servos, but I am planning on replacing the steering servo for with a 7940, and moving the steering servo to the trottle like everyone has recommended. So far I am really impressed with the RTR 8ight 2.0 buggy. I should be taking it this Saturday to my local in door track for some racing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRnVZKtZ7lQ
Acill
08-11-2010, 01:19 PM
I think my throttle servo is dead or about to be dead (stock one) It glitches when I pull my throttle trigger in. Like its getting interference, but i am on a 2.4ghz so I know thats not it. Is this what they do when they are dead? I just mailed losi about it to see if they will replace it. I am broke after getting the car last weekend.
josefmd
08-16-2010, 10:52 AM
Fried my SR3300T rx last nite trying to get my telemetery to work!:mad: By mistake plugged in pwr lead into one of the telemetery ports! Sucks! big time! I am either going to buy a new one of ebay for $80 or try to send it back to Horizon to see if they can fix it for cheaper. I know a lot of guys of blown /shorted out their rx the same way. Kind of a bad design if u ask me.
Matt
tcap09
08-17-2010, 10:00 AM
Whats a good starting setup for the 2.0 rtr ??
Florida = sandy
also the track is a bit loose not too bad
T-MAN
08-17-2010, 11:17 AM
tcap, go to Losi.com Home - Race Center - Set-Up Sheet Finder. That should get you started. Then it's just a matter of trial & error. Best thing to do first IMO is change the diff lube. A lot of guys seem to run 5-5-2 front to rear. Another suggestion is to read as many threads as possible regardless of the title. Guys get off-topic sometimes, and you can find some great tips. This is the best forum site on the internet!!
tcap09
08-17-2010, 09:06 PM
My speed stopped working I took tray off and cleaned it and it still does not work any tips?
Im hoping for a little advise as a begginer,
i have started my break in and had the usual problems, what i want to know is as i am on my 4th tank on break in settings i ahve not had it up to 200 f yet is it too late to switch to heat cycle from old school method half way through still getting stuck tdc but feel i CLICK in the fly wheel travel my instinct is telling me i may have done some damage getting stuck tdc so many many times? also been told heat cycle will yeild better performance so again do we think its too late??? :confused:
Robert Blount
10-09-2010, 07:03 AM
Try leaning it a bit to get the higher temp.
unrealdude03
10-11-2010, 12:35 PM
what size is the fuel tank for the 8ight 2.0? And about how much run time can i get out of it?
T-MAN
10-12-2010, 09:35 AM
what size is the fuel tank for the 8ight 2.0? And about how much run time can i get out of it?
125 cc - Should get about 8-10 minutes run time after break-in depending on tune
unrealdude03
10-12-2010, 01:31 PM
Thanks man. I was just wondering cuz i saw that the 810 had a 82cc tank. which i see is fairly small compared to the 8ight 2.0
T-MAN
10-13-2010, 04:59 AM
Thanks man. I was just wondering cuz i saw that the 810 had a 82cc tank. which i see is fairly small compared to the 8ight 2.0
Yeah, and what really p***es me off is if you go to the Whats New Product page, they already have an optional larger fuel tank for the 810. Why wouldn't Losi just put in the largest possible tank that will fit, considering the #1 complaint I see is the puny tank and minimal run time for the 10-T. Just another money grab I guess
unrealdude03
10-13-2010, 07:55 AM
if you watch the video the guy that worked on the losi 810 design said that they put the biggest tank that they could because of the space available. So yeah its just is just another money grab. Im just going to stick with the 8ight 2.0 rtr.
bigdaddymike
11-25-2010, 10:23 AM
guys i have a few question i got a 2.0 rtr buggy about a month ago and the servo for steering and throtle are the same unlike before they say the throtle was weaker of the two now my question is do you guys now the spec on the new losi servo? i put a futaba bls352 for steering and kept the throtle as is, also after break in on 350 engine how may turns on the high needle do you guys have i have mine on 4 turns out 230f temp can i lean it more? thanks for any help guys
bigdaddymike
11-26-2010, 08:58 AM
can anybody help with my question? tnx
josabmartin
01-27-2011, 04:24 PM
My servant is dead stock gas tanks a few as well. I got a replacement Horison, but threw JR sweet because I need more performance / reliability. I think it's just a bad servant.Make sure the ends are securely fastened on the radio and the link is not binding.
chiefN420
02-21-2011, 05:22 PM
Looking for a clutch and tire setup for a grass flat track for this spring. Thanks for any help
14joecool
02-26-2011, 08:27 PM
I am torn about this buggy. I love all that it comes with for the price. It seems like it cant be beat. However, it seems to have a MILLION problems. My question is, is it worth it? If not, then what are some great RTR buggies for the price. I want to race.
I was confused about that too as I saw the horizon unboxing that included one as well. the LOSB0084 does NOT include an igniter
Token
03-07-2011, 01:08 PM
I am torn about this buggy. I love all that it comes with for the price. It seems like it cant be beat. However, it seems to have a MILLION problems. My question is, is it worth it? If not, then what are some great RTR buggies for the price. I want to race.
Whats wrong with it?
As with ALL RTRs just be prepared to buy servos. I have 3 seasons on my Losi stuff and i have not had many problems at all.
myl3s91
03-10-2011, 11:06 PM
Im new to the sport, but this is the car i think i am going to buy, i dont want to get something where i will want to upgrade to a new car within months. I am looking for something that i will be satisfied with and eventually upgrade parts! So i think this is the car. Would you recommend this car for what i am looking for?! Any help would be great, Thanks.
Token
03-11-2011, 09:21 AM
For a RTR (Ready to Run) this is the BEST option on the market. But keep in mind as with ALL RTRs you will need to upgrade your servos very soon. Horizon will probably warranty them but you will run into the same problem over and over. I am a HITEC fan. I would look at replacing the servos to one of the Hitec HV lines. You dont need HV but in the long run I think its a great choice.
myl3s91
03-12-2011, 11:13 AM
For a RTR (Ready to Run) this is the BEST option on the market. But keep in mind as with ALL RTRs you will need to upgrade your servos very soon. Horizon will probably warranty them but you will run into the same problem over and over. I am a HITEC fan. I would look at replacing the servos to one of the Hitec HV lines. You dont need HV but in the long run I think its a great choice.
Hey thanks alot for the info, yes i have decided to go with this RTR, i dont mind having to replace the servos, and thanks for the the info about the Hitec HV lines, i really appreciate the help!
cagomocreed74
03-17-2011, 08:33 PM
The 350 engine is it any good?
How do you think it will perform in a 8ight-t?
no...they sieze to fast...
replace servos, replace this, replace that, replace, replace, replace.. bah forget it.
I bought the losi 8.0 RTR and aside from the chassis bumpers and scuff protectors I have "replaced" not a thing.
I thrash this buggy pretty hard. I've let my son, my step dad and my mom thrash it pretty well too.
Flip, hop, launch, roll, nose dive, whatever this buggy takes it and takes it well.
Get past the pain in the butt break in and the general lack of support from anyone other than the casual forum reader and you got it made.
Token
03-18-2011, 08:34 AM
no...they sieze to fast...
what do you mean by sieze. These engines are very tight to begin with. They take time to break in and I hear they free up at about 3/4 gal mark. You break them in right and they will least awhile.
ausracer
03-21-2011, 04:45 AM
Gday guys.
Hope someone can point me in the right direction.
Im having problems getting a tune with my 8ight 2.0 RTR
Im getting really high engine temps after a cpl of mins running but the engine is running rich, by this i mean plenty of smoke.
What could be causing this?
Iam pretty close to finished breaking in the engine have done 8 tanks doing the heat soak method. But the car will not run clean and crisp ( no bottom end or top end, engine does not die on me just getting temps going through the roof) and if i lean it out to try and get some bottom or top end power the temps go through the roof staight away.
Could i have a air leak somewhere?
Any help would be great.
Thanks
nsstang
03-21-2011, 04:04 PM
What kind of fuel are you running? how high temps are you getting? are you doing high speed runs? try turning your low side more rich if your high side is rich. If its hot out and your flying up and down the street its gonna get hot
ausracer
03-21-2011, 09:34 PM
Thanks for your reply nsstang
25% nitro X fuel
I have seen temps up to 150deg celcius.
I cannot do high speed runs as the buggy will not get up to speed.
nsstang
03-23-2011, 08:43 AM
with those temps and what your saying it sounds like its running really lean try backing your low side and high side needle to rich the mixture
Robby368
03-28-2011, 03:25 PM
This is my second tear-down, 4 race weekends total on this chassis and there is significant damage where the set screws on the suspension arms bottom out on the chassis front and rear. It's getting pretty bad, how do you prevent it? replace the chassis every 4 races?
Robby368
03-28-2011, 03:30 PM
Gday guys.
Hope someone can point me in the right direction.
Im having problems getting a tune with my 8ight 2.0 RTR
Im getting really high engine temps after a cpl of mins running but the engine is running rich, by this i mean plenty of smoke.
What could be causing this?
Iam pretty close to finished breaking in the engine have done 8 tanks doing the heat soak method. But the car will not run clean and crisp ( no bottom end or top end, engine does not die on me just getting temps going through the roof) and if i lean it out to try and get some bottom or top end power the temps go through the roof staight away.
Could i have a air leak somewhere?
Any help would be great.
Thanks
Hey aus check your high speed needle where the fuel nipple is. That vibrates loose alot, sucking in air and making it super lean, even if you're smoking heavy. Also if it is very humid where you live you should add another thin head shim.
alford78
03-28-2011, 08:57 PM
I've had my buggy for a few weeks now and the spektrum system is junk from my experience. I'm new to this hobby but have a few RTF helis with very cheap systems that work 100 times better than mine. I know they all cant be as bad as mine but have read several threads about problems with the spektrum stuff especially the dx3s. It works great at times then will just lose signal and go into failsafe from like 20-30 yards away. I've already spent close to $400 on hopups and random tools for this buggy and really think its awesome!
Can I just buy a Futaba 4pks system or Airtronics M11x and reciever and then install? Or will I need to change some of the wiring to plug into the recievers? Not that Im really worried about the rewiring but would like to know if need to order some connections and what not.
Oh, and what about the stock servos, will they work as well or need to be upgraded as well?
Many thanks to this forum! I'm new but read on many different brand forums before choosing Losi as my first 1/8 nitro.
dvoisin1
03-29-2011, 07:28 AM
Pretty much plug and play. Your servos will plug right in. I would upgrade your servos if you could afford it. If you buy 2 real nice ones they will last you awhile. I spent close to 400 just on 2 servos.
cagomocreed74
04-04-2011, 01:32 AM
very nice engine warning make sure you break it in good also it doesn't say in the rtr manual how long to let it cool down after the first tank or the next.. but always remember when you stop the engine to rotate the fly wheel to make sure your piston is at the bottom...
cagomocreed74
04-04-2011, 01:37 AM
no!..but its alway great to have extra chassies or good time to upgrade.. tip if you really need that spacing take your set screws out completly and use thin sticky back foam tape by 3m you can get them in different thickness..
Token
04-12-2011, 10:14 AM
I've had my buggy for a few weeks now and the spektrum system is junk from my experience. I'm new to this hobby but have a few RTF helis with very cheap systems that work 100 times better than mine. I know they all cant be as bad as mine but have read several threads about problems with the spektrum stuff especially the dx3s. It works great at times then will just lose signal and go into failsafe from like 20-30 yards away. I've already spent close to $400 on hopups and random tools for this buggy and really think its awesome!
Can I just buy a Futaba 4pks system or Airtronics M11x and reciever and then install? Or will I need to change some of the wiring to plug into the recievers? Not that Im really worried about the rewiring but would like to know if need to order some connections and what not.
Oh, and what about the stock servos, will they work as well or need to be upgraded as well?
Many thanks to this forum! I'm new but read on many different brand forums before choosing Losi as my first 1/8 nitro.
If your radio is having problems you should contact Horizon or Spektrum. They will take care of their products.
You can buy what ever radio system you want. And I got 2 hitec 7950 for $200. Shop around $ 400 for 2 servos is ALOT.... Just sayin.
XxDrEvilxX
04-15-2011, 02:24 PM
The time has come where I want to put on an aftermarket body with custom paint, what body looks good and has been working good on a Losi 2.0B 8ight?
Thanks,
Matt
Token
04-18-2011, 08:38 AM
They all are good. Bulldog is probably one of the most popular besides the stock.
I know you said paint, but I will throw out FASTLANE GRAGHIX.
Hit up Chad. He makes custom wraps. There are a few advantages for wraps........
Chris Wolfson
04-19-2011, 03:55 PM
This is my second tear-down, 4 race weekends total on this chassis and there is significant damage where the set screws on the suspension arms bottom out on the chassis front and rear. It's getting pretty bad, how do you prevent it? replace the chassis every 4 races?
Can you glue a thin piece of metal on the chassis where those setscrews hit? This way, that piece of metal could be pulled off and replaced instead of the chassis. I think that was an 1/8 scale trick back in the day.
Nitro_Worm
04-24-2011, 01:55 AM
SLUGGO
I have been running the futaba BLS 352 and 351 and these are amazing. Have had no issues
talbot011
04-28-2011, 08:54 AM
Hi guys...first post here...been running the rtr 2.0 and changed out the servos immediately.
My question is with antisquat. There are a few holes on my track that upsets the rear end so bad that the car hops around and I cannot drive forward without corrections to the steering input. Remembering that this car is bone stock set-up wise what do you think should be done...some EU editions at the track seem really stable through the exact same section.
Is the hopping chassis slap where i might need to increase antisqaut or should i go up on oil for the rear. I have set the preload to 29f 30-R (in MM)
Any ideas?
Drive train really smooth! must have got lucky there...should I go mugen style clutch or stick to losi 4 shoe when i upgrade. Big outdoor track...choppy huge triple with a good run up and no jumps right out of corners...I feel a cluch that engages sooner would be best...
Again, any input would be cool.
Token
04-28-2011, 11:23 AM
Take a look at Drakes Silver State setup.... this years setup. You may need to hit him up on his thread and ask for it.
myl3s91
05-03-2011, 10:47 AM
Here is a few pictures of some upgrades i have done to my 8IGHT 2.0 RTR. It is coming along great, the engine is running perfect and the servos have yet to fail.
Wheel Hexes, 1/2" Wider-LOSA3533
Front Shock Tower-LOSA1714
Rear Shock Tower-LOSA1735
Rear Springs (Green)-LOSA5458
Aluminum Shock Caps-LOSA5420
JAFO913
05-23-2011, 10:06 PM
How many of you run a fuel filter in the fuel line in addition to the fuel filter that is in the tank? You would be able to hold just a bit more fuel, but is it really worth adding another filter to the line? Someone said to get the GH large filter, but I do not see how that will fit without the bidy hitting it.
Thanks...
Token
05-24-2011, 01:35 PM
How many of you run a fuel filter in the fuel line in addition to the fuel filter that is in the tank? You would be able to hold just a bit more fuel, but is it really worth adding another filter to the line? Someone said to get the GH large filter, but I do not see how that will fit without the bidy hitting it.
Thanks...
I dont simply because there are way to many problems I have encountered with the filter. I have never in 4-5 years had a problem with the Losi tank filter. I bet you will not see an increase of run time.
royg6852
05-30-2011, 10:47 PM
I purchased a Losi 2.0 RTR Saturday, and now that I've been reading the forums all weekend I decided to check and see what servos my RTR came with. To my surprise my steering and throttle are both LOSB0812 digital servos. Is this something that Losi just recently changed with the RTR's? I'm going to stick with them at the track until they fail, but does anyone else have any experience with these?
JAFO913
05-30-2011, 10:54 PM
I purchased a Losi 2.0 RTR Saturday, and now that I've been reading the forums all weekend I decided to check and see what servos my RTR came with. To my surprise my steering and throttle are both LOSB0812 digital servos. Is this something that Losi just recently changed with the RTR's? I'm going to stick with them at the track until they fail, but does anyone else have any experience with these?
I had them in my RTR also for about 2 months. They did not fail, but I upgraded to some HITEC servo's last week. No major complaints. They worked okay for what they are.
jtuttle
08-11-2011, 09:45 PM
This is my first 1/8th scale buggy and my first experience using a starter box and from all the video, etc. that I've seen I thought starting the buggy wouldn't be too hard...boy was I wrong!
I don't know what I'm doing wrong, I've gotten the pegs lined up and the flywheel wants to turn, unstuck the piston, then the flywheel doesn't line up and it sprays black rubber shavings all over...I need some help please.
Thanks in advance.
JAFO913
08-11-2011, 11:32 PM
This is my first 1/8th scale buggy and my first experience using a starter box and from all the video, etc. that I've seen I thought starting the buggy wouldn't be too hard...boy was I wrong!
I don't know what I'm doing wrong, I've gotten the pegs lined up and the flywheel wants to turn, unstuck the piston, then the flywheel doesn't line up and it sprays black rubber shavings all over...I need some help please.
Thanks in advance.
Okay.... I know you said everything is lined up, but double check and make sure. Are you pre heating the motor with a heat gun before you try to start it? Are you priming the motor before you try to start it at all? IE... fuel is in the fuel line all the way to the motor?The stock 350 is pretty tight when new and that will help out a ton with getting it to start. Also be sure to press straight down on the glow plug igniter pretty firmly. Have you worn out the wheel? Might have to replace it? Try replacing the glow plug or testing to see if it is good? How much fuel do you have thru the motor?
Take your time and it will come to you.
Zao18
09-04-2011, 02:33 PM
Take your engine out completely, throw the buggy on the starter, and make absolutely sure that the starter wheel lines up with the flywheel hole in the chassis. I was drooling over, I mean, chatting with a guy at the track this week who was running this buggy. He chewed up a starter wheel too before checking this way.
bigdaddymike
09-05-2011, 02:09 AM
I purchased a Losi 2.0 RTR Saturday, and now that I've been reading the forums all weekend I decided to check and see what servos my RTR came with. To my surprise my steering and throttle are both LOSB0812 digital servos. Is this something that Losi just recently changed with the RTR's? I'm going to stick with them at the track until they fail, but does anyone else have any experience with these?
Change the steering servo with savox or futaba bls 352, keep the throtle servo as is and keep the other one as reserve, it's a good servo had mine for almost a year and it's still ok
Dirt-rage
10-16-2011, 07:28 AM
I have just purchased a Losi 8ight 2.0 RTR as my introduction to nitro rc cars and so far ive had nothing but greif. When i got it home i found the leads in the receiver were plugged in the wrong way round, one of the coils had fallen off the motor in the starter box, one of the batteries I bought for the starter box was dead (not losi fault). The shop owner has been very helpful in sorting it out and actualy got it running for me so I could start running it in, but when I got it home I managed to get it running once but no luck since. When I tried it yesterday it seemed like it wanted to start a couple of times but kept getting stuck on compression. Im not really getting on with the starter box either and now the starter box is making a horrid noise and sounds like sonething seizing up. Im returning to the shop tomorrow but im not sure what my plans are, I may see if I can get my money back. I understand its a great car as I bought it on the strength of seeing it in action on youtube, but with the high compression and starter box im not sure its totaly suitable for a beginner like myself. Im starting to prefer the idea of a lower spec basher like my mates with a simple pull start that starts really easy, but if it doesnt start he hasnt got to mess anout with the starter box, which may be great once you are used to it, but personaly, ive got the hump with it all.
javier668
10-19-2011, 05:16 AM
To avoid servo problems:
Adjust the endpoint and travel of each servo, the steering rate can't be high as travel, read the radio manual, and adjust servos without start the engine.
I'm running third gallon with STD servos and running flawlessly.
Look at servo throttle, my buggy rubs on the body shell, and needed some adjust.
Regards!
Token
10-20-2011, 08:17 AM
I have just purchased a Losi 8ight 2.0 RTR as my introduction to nitro rc cars and so far ive had nothing but greif. When i got it home i found the leads in the receiver were plugged in the wrong way round, one of the coils had fallen off the motor in the starter box, one of the batteries I bought for the starter box was dead (not losi fault). The shop owner has been very helpful in sorting it out and actualy got it running for me so I could start running it in, but when I got it home I managed to get it running once but no luck since. When I tried it yesterday it seemed like it wanted to start a couple of times but kept getting stuck on compression. Im not really getting on with the starter box either and now the starter box is making a horrid noise and sounds like sonething seizing up. Im returning to the shop tomorrow but im not sure what my plans are, I may see if I can get my money back. I understand its a great car as I bought it on the strength of seeing it in action on youtube, but with the high compression and starter box im not sure its totaly suitable for a beginner like myself. Im starting to prefer the idea of a lower spec basher like my mates with a simple pull start that starts really easy, but if it doesnt start he hasnt got to mess anout with the starter box, which may be great once you are used to it, but personaly, ive got the hump with it all.
Heat gun for the engine. This will loosin it up and make it way easier to start.
There are griefs with ANY nitro engine. Once you get pass the break in stage, and get an understanding of how a nitro engine works you would be good.
Sounds like you just don't have the patience for nitro. Maybe look into an 8ight E
TheGunMan
10-24-2011, 10:06 PM
If I want to upgrade the RX battery to 2S LiPo do I need voltage regulator?
Thanks
Zao18
10-25-2011, 01:02 PM
Yes, unless you change out your stock servos for high-voltage ones.
javier668
10-29-2011, 05:52 AM
I have just purchased a Losi 8ight 2.0 RTR as my introduction to nitro rc cars and so far ive had nothing but greif. When i got it home i found the leads in the receiver were plugged in the wrong way round, one of the coils had fallen off the motor in the starter box, one of the batteries I bought for the starter box was dead (not losi fault). The shop owner has been very helpful in sorting it out and actualy got it running for me so I could start running it in, but when I got it home I managed to get it running once but no luck since. When I tried it yesterday it seemed like it wanted to start a couple of times but kept getting stuck on compression. Im not really getting on with the starter box either and now the starter box is making a horrid noise and sounds like sonething seizing up. Im returning to the shop tomorrow but im not sure what my plans are, I may see if I can get my money back. I understand its a great car as I bought it on the strength of seeing it in action on youtube, but with the high compression and starter box im not sure its totaly suitable for a beginner like myself. Im starting to prefer the idea of a lower spec basher like my mates with a simple pull start that starts really easy, but if it doesnt start he hasnt got to mess anout with the starter box, which may be great once you are used to it, but personaly, ive got the hump with it all.
If you wanna be a looser at the track, change your 8ight. If you dont apply hot to engine never will start.
And if you dont search for info , nitro is not for you.
Regards!
Zao18
10-29-2011, 08:39 AM
I think what Javier is trying to say is that you need to preheat the engine, either with a hairdryer (not the best option), a heat gun, or one of those Competition Heat heaters (it wraps around the engine head.....probably the best engine heating option to go with). The engines that come in Losi's RTR kits are notoriously tight and you'll save yourself a lot of headache by heating up the engine first before starting it. It's really something you should do with any brand new engine during the break-in process.
Unfortunately, Javier is also right about this hobby being fairly labour-intensive. There's a lot of trial and error, a lot of working on and fixing your stuff, and it's definitely in your best interest to do some research online. This forum, as well as www.rctech.net, are good resources for learning more and asking questions.
Having said all that, welcome to the hobby, I hope you get things sorted out. Do yourself a favor and get yourself an engine heater. And if nitro is just too much hassle for you, you could consider trying electric. There are some pretty nice electric brushless setups out there. Just make sure to use Lipo batteries, don't waste your time with NiMH batteries for an all-electric car. :p
Dirt-rage
10-30-2011, 12:01 PM
Heat gun for the engine. This will loosin it up and make it way easier to start.
There are griefs with ANY nitro engine. Once you get pass the break in stage, and get an understanding of how a nitro engine works you would be good.
Sounds like you just don't have the patience for nitro. Maybe look into an 8ight E
Cheers for that. If my message gave the impression that I was frustrated, I was. It wasnt that I didnt have the patience for it, I just honestly didnt have a clue what I was doing!:rolleyes:
I returned to my dealer who understood that mabie he didnt sell the ideal car to a beginner, so he took it in for a week, ran it in for 5 tanks, set up the starter box (when i had a go i tried lining up the pins straight when they should be offset). When I returned at the end of the week he showed me it was much easier to start and gave me a crash-course in getting it started and looking after it. Now im fully sorted and BIG thanks to my dealer, if id bought this off the net id have been stuffed!
Ive taken it out and did around 9 tanks before giving it full beans and boy does it shift! Im really happy with it now that ive got some idea of what im doing, ive only used it on the flat, next im going out in search of jumps. Im so happy with it that im not going to needlessly abuse it by doing stupid jumps that it couldnt possibly, im going to do some choice mods like rear mud guards and cv rubbers, and afew fancy alloy bits, i dont think it needs much else at the moment.
Nice one Losi :cool:
Dirt-rage
10-30-2011, 12:08 PM
I think what Javier is trying to say is that you need to preheat the engine, either with a hairdryer (not the best option), a heat gun, or one of those Competition Heat heaters (it wraps around the engine head.....probably the best engine heating option to go with). The engines that come in Losi's RTR kits are notoriously tight and you'll save yourself a lot of headache by heating up the engine first before starting it. It's really something you should do with any brand new engine during the break-in process.
Unfortunately, Javier is also right about this hobby being fairly labour-intensive. There's a lot of trial and error, a lot of working on and fixing your stuff, and it's definitely in your best interest to do some research online. This forum, as well as www.rctech.net, are good resources for learning more and asking questions.
Having said all that, welcome to the hobby, I hope you get things sorted out. Do yourself a favor and get yourself an engine heater. And if nitro is just too much hassle for you, you could consider trying electric. There are some pretty nice electric brushless setups out there. Just make sure to use Lipo batteries, don't waste your time with NiMH batteries for an all-electric car. :p
cheers, im using an old, stupidly hot hair dryer to heat it up now, makes perfect sence to heat it up before trying anything, wish id known that in the first place. Ive had plenty of mechanical experience and im fine when im pointed in the right direction, it had to be nitro for me, ive decided to down-scale to this after having a full-size car hobby for years so i needed and engine, it wouldnt be right without. Now that im up to speed with it im as keen as mustard after having a battle with my mates car, seems we might have afew more comming on board too, such is the addiction.
Zao18
10-30-2011, 02:18 PM
Ah, good to hear you got your problems sorted out. That sounds like one awesome dealer! Unfortunately, there is a tough learning curve at the beginning with nitro cars, but once you've gone through a couple problems, taken your rig apart and put it back together (and a lot of forum trolling, heh), the knowledge comes. I definitely feel far more comfortable with the hobby now, compared to when I first got into it springtime last year. And yea, I am with you on absolutely HAVING to go nitro. Electric has some nice benefits to it (and I quite enjoy casually playing with my wife's HPI e-firestorm), but on the track, nothing beats the sound, sight and smell of a nitro screaming. Enjoy that 8ight buggy, I keep hearing a lot of awesome stuff about it. Do yourself a favor and take it out on your local track if you have one. It's ok for bashing, but it was "made" for RACING! :D
P.S. Now you are just a step away from wanting the truggy too!
Token
10-31-2011, 09:42 AM
Cheers for that. If my message gave the impression that I was frustrated, I was. It wasnt that I didnt have the patience for it, I just honestly didnt have a clue what I was doing!:rolleyes:
I returned to my dealer who understood that mabie he didnt sell the ideal car to a beginner, so he took it in for a week, ran it in for 5 tanks, set up the starter box (when i had a go i tried lining up the pins straight when they should be offset). When I returned at the end of the week he showed me it was much easier to start and gave me a crash-course in getting it started and looking after it. Now im fully sorted and BIG thanks to my dealer, if id bought this off the net id have been stuffed!
Ive taken it out and did around 9 tanks before giving it full beans and boy does it shift! Im really happy with it now that ive got some idea of what im doing, ive only used it on the flat, next im going out in search of jumps. Im so happy with it that im not going to needlessly abuse it by doing stupid jumps that it couldnt possibly, im going to do some choice mods like rear mud guards and cv rubbers, and afew fancy alloy bits, i dont think it needs much else at the moment.
Nice one Losi :cool:
If anyone tell you that Nitro is easy. They are lying to your face. We all get frustrated with this at some point. Being happy with nitro is short lived...
Dirt-rage
10-31-2011, 01:51 PM
If anyone tell you that Nitro is easy. They are lying to your face. We all get frustrated with this at some point. Being happy with nitro is short lived...
I know im giong to get times when it not all going to go to plan, if I wanted things that simple I would have gone brushless, but that was never going to happen. I know that if my glow plug is ok and everything is charged and the carb mixture is correct, it should start. If it doesnt then thats where the fun begins. Ive had classic cars with S.U. carbs for years so ive got a bit of a start there, i just need to convert what i know into what I need to know for nitro, its relitavly simple, but slightly different. Knowing how tricky it is to tune twin S.U. means I also know how big the reward is once its sorted.
Hedge
11-20-2011, 10:49 AM
Hello everyone,
I've got the bug again, last time I raced it was about 2 yrs ago 1/10th electric touring car. Since then I've been flying nitro helis, but now I fancy some offroad 1/8th. I'd sold most of my kit so looked at the RTRs and the Losi 2.0 8ight seemed a good buy.
I've read the sticky in the engine corner about running in using the heat cycle method but could do with some clarification. What is slightly rich on the Losi 350 engine? As an example with helis if you asked me what slightly rich was on an OS Hyper 50 I would say 1.5 turns out on the main needle running 20% nitro. 2 would be very rich, 1.1 would be perfect running to lean depending on the day.
I plan to run model techniques 20% in the Losi as this is easily sourced locally.
Thanks for looking
Paul
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