running change request on axles of type-r

[da John Wee]

hello todd

could you request drill a hole on the lcd, rcd axle pin as same as xxx-s, since the hole is too close, light hit on side or few use later wheel hex pressed against inner bearings so hard a wheel wont even spin and car does donuts.

this never happened on xxx-s before, this wont be too much to ask for since you know all the measurement already.

please see the attachment.

thanks

[da John Wee]

I Love this, no reply from Todd or any Losi guys and no reply from other Type-r drivers.

GUYS TAKE OUT A HUB FROM THE CAR, MOUNT A WHEEL AS YOU NORMALY WOULD AND SPIN , YOU WILL FEEL ME.


just look how many wheel hexes I went through in a month!!! no denying no admitting from the Losi and people won't say anything to mighty Losi~

or did we already give up asking Losi for anything but RTR, 1/8th offroad?

[da John Wee]

Found a source of the problem.

I found out CVD, LCD axle hole got enlarged after 1 1/2 seasons of use. the hole on my axles are oval shape.

I just tried new set of LCD and no problem with a same hub, same BBs, all same old alum hexes.

but here is the kicker

I looked at my 8years old XXX-S CVD hole and they are fine, perfectly circled holes.

only thing I can think of it is XXX-S CVDs are made by MIP here in the USA, and I believe all this LCD and RCD's are made in Taiwan even thought all the packaging showing "made in USA" (old green color tag)

Losi once been sued for improperly used “Made in the U.S.A.” label and lost, then they changed all their label to "Made in Taiwan" (new Grey color tag) you can read the settlement here (http://www.spektrumrc.com/ProdInfo/articles/1741-ClassSettlement.pdf)

in my past experience American steel products are far stronger than one that from Asia and I think this is a same case too.

now if your wheels get grindy even with new set of BBs then you will need to go buy new axles for $14.00/pair which will last longer than $12.00/pair alum hexes.

drilling a hole closer on this soft steel axle made things worse and I thank Losi knows that.

[da John Wee]

One thing that I want to add to my post is

I read once that old fashioned burger shop in DC refused to go franchise with big corp, the owner said " once this suit wearing corporation ppl take control they will try to save cost on everything and I know that will bring my burgers quality down, I ll rather stay in family own, operate business and keeping my quality for my customers.

This is a true story I read when Mr president Obama was picking up burgers from the burger joint and made to news.

I know when Losi sr own this joint this will never happened and if some goes wrong he will address right away like he did on XXX-4 front shock tower.

[bjames]

I have definitely had that problem on my type r. I never really figured out was going wrong and just replaced part after part trying to get the wheel to spin freely. It would be nice to fix it properly and not have to check it constantly.

[da John Wee]

I have definitely had that problem on my type r. I never really figured out was going wrong and just replaced part after part trying to get the wheel to spin freely. It would be nice to fix it properly and not have to check it constantly.

Thank you! finally someone stepping up.

[swalker]

It appears that the Losi guys are not monitoring these Forums any more. Have you tried contacting Todd directly? I have done so in the past. It took a while, but he did answer me.

[Todd Hodge]

Hello Guys,

My deepest apologies for not being on the losi forum. Life has been kind of hectic for me recently.

I recall when I did race TC I was using a .005" shim between the bearing and the axle pin. Maybe a .010" shim between the bearing and axle pin at times. All of this depended on how new my parts were (spindles, axles, bearings, etc) Essentially newer parts used less shims, more worn parts used more shims. Ultimately the goal was to have a free drivetrain.

With the MIP CVD's we always used .015" shims hence making the hole sit further out on the axle.

The axle lasted 1 1/2 years of racing. I am not sure how many times you race but that seems relatively good to me. MIP CVD's would have never lasted that long in the front of a Touring Car which is the reason Losi designed the LCD. They essentially never wear out during a racing season.

[da John Wee]

Hello Guys,

My deepest apologies for not being on the losi forum. Life has been kind of hectic for me recently.

I recall when I did race TC I was using a .005" shim between the bearing and the axle pin. Maybe a .010" shim between the bearing and axle pin at times. All of this depended on how new my parts were (spindles, axles, bearings, etc) Essentially newer parts used less shims, more worn parts used more shims. Ultimately the goal was to have a free drivetrain.

With the MIP CVD's we always used .015" shims hence making the hole sit further out on the axle.

The axle lasted 1 1/2 years of racing. I am not sure how many times you race but that seems relatively good to me. MIP CVD's would have never lasted that long in the front of a Touring Car which is the reason Losi designed the LCD. They essentially never wear out during a racing season.

Hey Todd, hope everything is fine with you.

the reason behind my complaint? is becausse Losi DID changed the placement of hole for a roll pin compared to XXX-S, even thought they sharing same hubs and a BB, crushed tubes etc.

in my own experience newer parts need 0.010 spacer or none and worn out aluminium wheel Hex needs no shims. all because axle pins digging in to the hex ending up create too much pressure on hub bearings.

with XXX-S user can adjust amount of shims and maintain the drive train free but the Type-R got no other way but keep buying a new set of Aluminium hexes.

Please adjust tooling on the CVD/LCD/RCD Just like a XXX-S, it doesn't cost the Horizon-Hobby a dime.

PS: I race twice/month on 13.5-17.5 Rubber FYI.