8IGHT-T 2.0 Truggy Race Roller

[Casey Peck]

Post any questions about Team Losi's latest and greatest Truggy offering here.

[Signguy Gary]

Casey - How's it going buddy? Did you get a chance to try the truggy setup I gave you? it works great for me on the tracks around here

Later

[Casey Peck]

I did not. Billy an I have come up with one that I have been sticking to lately.

How is the recovery going?

[Signguy Gary]

Pretty good, Thanks. I feel better everyday.

Call me when you get a chance.

[Mac]

Casey, Dave Henry really liked you set up as well. Can you post it here as I forgot to write it down and want to set my truck up this way for a race next weekend.

Thank you!

[Casey Peck]

Sure David

Billy Fischer gets the credit here as well I have a few things different than he does but He is the one that got me thinking in the right direction. I am really happy with this set up though.


these are the changes from the roller set up

front

54piston std 40 wt oil 39mm ride height

Rear
56piston std 30 wt oil
camber link up on tower and all the way in on hub ( you will have to cut 1/8" off of each side of the tie rod, but it will still work for the std location)
hubs back 2.0mm sway bar 127mm droop 40mm ride height

[Mac]

Thank you Casey.

One more question, I find in most cases I do not run the front sway bar (less push in the corner), however with this set up: what are your thoughts.

(Here in Canada not the hard packed tracks that you have, looser more blown out.)

[Casey Peck]

I hear ya. I like the 54 pistons to get the truck to initiate the turn better. Try it with the bar first and see what you think.

[Mac]

Cool - I will give it a try!

[Robert "Wick" Wickham]

What are the benefits to running that set-up?? more corner speed, better in the rough?? :confused:

[Casey Peck]

The truck drives on the rear more like the buggy. IMO it has more corner speed and I can drive it harder!

[Robert "Wick" Wickham]

I will have to try it when I'am praticing. I run almost the race roller set up but I run 10K in the front diff and 15K in the center, for me it makes the truggy wips around tight corner just like the buggy. I don't like to try new set ups the day of the race unless the changes are necessary. It my sound silly but I am alittle superstitious!! I think all racer are just a little bit.

[TIX]

For those who haven't heard. the Losi 8T 2.0 took out the Australian Truggy Nationals last week!!!
It was a Losi 1-2 finish

[Casey Peck]

Hey Tix if you get a chance could you post in the racing news thread about it? Thanks

[TIX]

no probs ill see if i can find a link to the full results

[Mac]

Hey Casey,

I am in the middle of rebuilding my truggy for a big race here in Canada this weekend. I have made the changes you mentioned above, so while I am at it couple more questions: (big, fast, loose wide open track)

1) presently running front and middle smart diff, would you take out the front?

2) are you running 3 - 3 in the rear? (toe-anti)

3) running 0 insert all the way round in the front?

4) still the long ackerman?

Thank you

[Casey Peck]

1. In that loose surface situation I like the smart diffs front and center. the rougher it gets the better they are IMO

2.yes
3.yes
4.yes

Good luck this weekend!

[Mac]

Thank you!

[Daniel Yachnin]

Sure David

Billy Fischer gets the credit here as well I have a few things different than he does but He is the one that got me thinking in the right direction. I am really happy with this set up though.


these are the changes from the roller set up

front

54piston std 40 wt oil 39mm ride height

Rear
56piston std 30 wt oil
camber link up on tower and all the way in on hub ( you will have to cut 1/8" off of each side of the tie rod, but it will still work for the std location)
hubs back 2.0mm sway bar 127mm droop 40mm ride height


Hey casey, I tried the setup out last weekend and it is really good. Which smartdiff springs do you use when you run the smartdiff and what part number is the 2mm swaybar, isnt the smallest a 2.3mm?

[Casey Peck]

2.0 bar is available in the buggy swaybar kit, let me see if I can get the correct part# for you. I like the stock smart diff set up for front and for center, pretty sure we all run 2 20 springs

[Daniel Yachnin]

Thanks Casey!

[Bobby Davis]

2.0 bar is available in the buggy swaybar kit, let me see if I can get the correct part# for you. I like the stock smart diff set up for front and for center, pretty sure we all run 2 20 springs

sway bar kit 2.0 part#losa1751

[Casey Peck]

Thanks Bobby! How are things over there? I want to get out there and run the new track with you guys.

[Bobby Davis]

real good scott is on the tractor now for the tumbleweed rebuild....Are you going to make it for t-weed its labor day weekend

[Casey Peck]

Most likely not. Sorry I will miss out

[esims26]

i just got an 8t2.0 and cant wait to run it this weekend, was wondering if someone had a setup that is pretty basic, to begin with or any tips and tricks i can use to help it handle better and corner better?

[Casey Peck]

esims the box set up is really good give it a try I'll bet you will like it. It seems to work well everywhere

[Losi_Racer]

Sure David

Billy Fischer gets the credit here as well I have a few things different than he does but He is the one that got me thinking in the right direction. I am really happy with this set up though.


these are the changes from the roller set up

front

54piston std 40 wt oil 39mm ride height

Rear
56piston std 30 wt oil
camber link up on tower and all the way in on hub ( you will have to cut 1/8" off of each side of the tie rod, but it will still work for the std location)
hubs back 2.0mm sway bar 127mm droop 40mm ride height


casey, i havent looked just seeing if i can get a quick answer before i go out later to do the truggy, i wanna try this set up this weekend, does the 54 piston come with the truggy in the extra parts it comes with? i know 55 it stock

[Robknasel]

Ok let's talk about the weak rear end the truck has. I have seen more rear ends go out than should have. What has been your experiences and fixes.

[Robert "Wick" Wickham]

I have never had a rear end go out on my truggy, I run 2000 wt in the diff and take one shim out on the gear side. No problems for me.

[LVBaja]

I've never had an issue with the rear gearbox on mine either, but after reading several forums, it appears to be an issue for several people out there. The fix seems to be shimming and replacing the rear gear box case regularly, but it would be nice if there was a permanent fix.

I've seen team drivers chime in on the forums stating that they shim the diff until it's slightly notchy, and then after running a few tanks, it's smooth again. I checked mine last night and it was super smooth, so I put a shim on each side. It's still super smooth, so I'm getting nervous that maybe I'm the next victim of rear gearbox failure.

[Trevor Clement]

All that's needed to prevent the rear diff from going out is keep up on the basic maintenance. The plastic diff case and inserts wear as you race and develop slop so you need to check the tolerances from race to race. You also need to make sure your rear bearing is good, if it goes bad it will heat up and cause all sorts of problems.

You only want the slightest amount of play between gears, too much will cause problems. If I have a brand new truck, I will check the gears after each of the first couple races since they almost always need re-shimming after break-in. After that, I just check every 2 or 3 races.

I also use the aluminum inserts since they wont wear as quick as the plastic ones. They are extremely light and really help prevent slop due to wear.

Aluminum Rear Inserts (http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA4454)

http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo/LOS/250/LOSA4454-250.jpg

One last thing. If you ever do blow a rear diff, it's extremely important to replace the diff case along with the gears. When your diff gears go, they put a ton of stress and tweaking on the diff case. If you only replace the gears, you're looking for trouble.

[Robknasel]

Guys first off don't think that I am trying to be negative by posting this info. The truth is that even with excessive shimming it isnot a cure for this issue. The shimming causes the pinion gear to wear faster. It does allow the gear to not fail as quick but will not keep this weak pinion gear from wearing out prematurely. I have seen many trucks have rear end failure. There is a fix for this issue. The fix involves using a better quality and designed rear gear. Also the use of a larger bearing to carry the pinion gear. This gear allows for proper shimming and not shimming gears until they grind. Anyone should realize that shimming gears until they are notchy cannot be a good thing. The Ninja jx21 seems to be the hardest on this pinion due to it's explosive bottom end. I beleive Losi will redesign the rear end. I would like to see them come out with a revised heavy duty rear end. Also one other comment. This issue is not limited to just the truggy the buggy has also had this issue.

[LVBaja]

All that's needed to prevent the rear diff from going out is keep up on the basic maintenance. The plastic diff case and inserts wear as you race and develop slop so you need to check the tolerances from race to race. You also need to make sure your rear bearing is good, if it goes bad it will heat up and cause all sorts of problems.

You only want the slightest amount of play between gears, too much will cause problems. If I have a brand new truck, I will check the gears after each of the first couple races since they almost always need re-shimming after break-in. After that, I just check every 2 or 3 races.

I also use the aluminum inserts since they wont wear as quick as the plastic ones. They are extremely light and really help prevent slop due to wear.

Aluminum Rear Inserts (http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA4454)

http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo/LOS/250/LOSA4454-250.jpg

One last thing. If you ever do blow a rear diff, it's extremely important to replace the diff case along with the gears. When your diff gears go, they put a ton of stress and tweaking on the diff case. If you only replace the gears, you're looking for trouble.


Thanks Trevor. Are you going to Santa Barbara this weekend for the JBRL? Or are you going to the wedding like a bunch of other people?

[Trevor Clement]

The Nitro Pit has round 3 of their summer series this weekend, I'll be there. I would love to check out the SB track since I know the weather will be awesome but I just don't have another 8 hour drive in me... lol.

Are you going? You've been kicking a$$ the whole series, that's for sure!

[LVBaja]

The Nitro Pit has round 3 of their summer series this weekend, I'll be there. I would love to check out the SB track since I know the weather will be awesome but I just don't have another 8 hour drive in me... lol.

Are you going? You've been kicking a$$ the whole series, that's for sure!

Nitro Pit - I haven't made it out there yet, but would like to soon.

I'm definitely going to SB, as I have a points lead to keep now!!! The drive is about 6 hours for me, so I'm not looking forward to that part. Thanks for the compliments.

[l3asher]

Guys first off don't think that I am trying to be negative by posting this info. The truth is that even with excessive shimming it isnot a cure for this issue. The shimming causes the pinion gear to wear faster. It does allow the gear to not fail as quick but will not keep this weak pinion gear from wearing out prematurely. I have seen many trucks have rear end failure. There is a fix for this issue. The fix involves using a better quality and designed rear gear. Also the use of a larger bearing to carry the pinion gear. This gear allows for proper shimming and not shimming gears until they grind. Anyone should realize that shimming gears until they are notchy cannot be a good thing. The Ninja jx21 seems to be the hardest on this pinion due to it's explosive bottom end. I beleive Losi will redesign the rear end. I would like to see them come out with a revised heavy duty rear end. Also one other comment. This issue is not limited to just the truggy the buggy has also had this issue.

We lost 4 R&P two weeks ago on 4 different trucks. I agree with you on this.

[Robknasel]

Ok now that we are talking about weddings, lets talk more about this rear end issue. The aluminum inserts are not the fix, basic maintenance is not the fix, I have seen brand new rear ends, shimmed properly not make it through a 45min A Main. Dakotah Phen, knows what I am talking about. Chuck Berg knows what I am talking about. The team drivers had a terrible time with truggy and buggy rear ends at the RC Pro Series Great Lakes divisional final race. We have fixed the issue at our end. Losi needs to come up with the fix for everyone. This is my biggest issue with the truck right now. I really like the truck. The handling is awesome. Also one other thing is the center drive gear actually protrudes below the bottom of the chassis. A shim needs to be manufactured to raise the center diff 1mm to keep this from being an issue. Look at a truck right out of the box. The center spur gear can be seen when you look straight across the length of the chassis. The servo saver spring is worthless. It does not allow the servo saver to function properly. If you have been trashing servos, especially if they are JR servos, this is most likely your issue. Replace the spring with the Fironi spring made for the 1.0 Buggy or truggy, or use a 1.0 spring. The current spring does not allow the servo saver to function.

[Robknasel]

Make sure you drill holes in your bottom shock retainers and zip tie the spring on to them. Answer RC has come up with a solution to this issue by making deeper shock spring retainers, but they are at a price, 20+ dollars for the set. The zip tie will work just as good. I lost two of the spring retainers in one weekend.

[Trevor Clement]

Just make sure the slot of the retainer is facing out (towards the tire) and you wont lose them during racing.

[Losi_Racer]

Just make sure the slot of the retainer is facing out (towards the tire) and you wont lose them during racing.

i did not know that, thank you trevor. where do you learn all this information?

[Casey Peck]

from lots of experience!:)

[Trevor Clement]

i did not know that, thank you trevor. where do you learn all this information?

The benefit of racing with Casey and Billy, I have a Losipedia at my fingertips at all times. :D

[Losi_Racer]

The benefit of racing with Casey and Billy, I have a Losipedia at my fingertips at all times. :D

lol, i was thinking of hiring them :D . but i cant afford it

[Reggie L]

The benefit of racing with Casey and Billy, I have a Losipedia at my fingertips at all times. :D

i would love tou have you guys as race buds i travel with:D...

[3 white spades]

from lots of experience!:)

thanks for letting me know about the home of losi :D

[Casey Peck]

Under wraps till today Donny boy! Good to see you over here.

Don't let Trevor fool ya he is a Nitro Jeti in all respects.

[Casey Peck]

i would love tou have you guys as race buds i travel with:D...

Reggie you will have to make it out here to AZ for some Nitro Pit racing. Good weather pretty much all year around.

[SHIZZILANILLA]

SuP Casey!

[Losi_Racer]

Hey casey quick set up question. I was going to do the set up you posted but read on the 2 mm sway bar it will decrease on power steering. My truck already pushes in corners, i put the adjust hinge pin brace in tonight and will see if that helps my pushing. but you say you can drive faster in corners by putting that in. I am a little confused by this. I am using almost stock settings btw

[Casey Peck]

YOOOOO!! Richie hows it going?

Losi...that 2.0 bar is an intrigal part of the whole set up. The aim of that set up was to get the truck to drive over the rear more. Probably a little harder to drive but faster overall. If you are running the std set up and it pushes try less front droop and less ride height about 2mm each. More front camber and even moving the hubs forward. Make sure your dogbones aren't worn out flip them side to side if they are starting to show signs of wear

[Losi_Racer]

YOOOOO!! Richie hows it going?

Losi...that 2.0 bar is an intrigal part of the whole set up. The aim of that set up was to get the truck to drive over the rear more. Probably a little harder to drive but faster overall. If you are running the std set up and it pushes try less front droop and less ride height about 2mm each. More front camber and even moving the hubs forward. Make sure your dogbones aren't worn out flip them side to side if they are starting to show signs of wear

ive always had problems pushing so i know its not the dogbones but they arent worn anyway, I was told less rear droop? So thats wrong i need less front?

the pushing isnt that bad but there are a couple spots at the pit like last turn b4 the loop where i need speed but i cant or ill go off the track. I was told its how i drive but my buggy doesnt push. Will the adjustable hinge pin brace help the push? If i remember right the stock is 3.5 toe, and now im running 3 toe, so this should allow the rear to come around easier right since its not getting as much traction or am i wrong on this theory?

[Reggie L]

Reggie you will have to make it out here to AZ for some Nitro Pit racing. Good weather pretty much all year around.

dont tease me!:rolleyes:....no wonder why billy has that serious tan...lol he's a huge m-f'er :D

[TIX]

you all need to head down under and see our local track. you could see what a blown out track really looks like. then you'd understand why a 8x14x4 just doesn't cut it
you would no longer tick blown out on a setup sheet when you got home

[Reggie L]

thats why you need to move to the states..lol...and the mt class is better than there(well in some places)

[Muggydude]

Here's a good mod for all you guys who keep on cracking fuel tanks. take a piece of sticky reciever box foam and put it under the fuel tank when you install it. Works great.

[sweber76]

Casey, That 2mm sway bar you’re talking about is for the front correct?

I was going to try this set up today, but the rain had better ideas for everyone.

[Reggie L]

Casey, That 2mm sway bar you’re talking about is for the front correct?

I was going to try this set up today, but the rain had better ideas for everyone.

no its for the rear...its in the buggy swaybar kit

[sweber76]

I've got about three sets of the old 1.0 buggy swaybar kits from the 1.0 buggy kits. The only 2.0 mm (silver) is for the front in my stuff. Looks like I will have to find one.

[factory chad]

I'm new to this truck and would love some help with a setup. The track is small tight hard packed and dusty, I'm looking to get maximum corner entry. thanks

[Anthony Mazzara]

I've got about three sets of the old 1.0 buggy swaybar kits from the 1.0 buggy kits. The only 2.0 mm (silver) is for the front in my stuff. Looks like I will have to find one.

sweber76...try losa1751 sway bar set 8b 2.0 im pretty sure the package includes a front and rear 2.5 bar and also the 2.0 rear s. bar your looking for.

[beeker]

im finally gonna start running my new 2.0 t. should i get some chassis skids or just run it stock til wears out then replace the chassis? i appreciate any feedback.

[beeker]

gen 2 de plates out soon il wait. wish losi had some

[losidave8]

hi guys just wondering does anybody use the 7 10 2 diff oil set up that comes in the race roller? cheers

[Neobart]

I do, but also 7/7/2. I'll be trying 7/5/2 next.

The current champion over here runs a 10/3/5 setup in his X2. I wanna see if that thin a center diff is something that could work for me.

[bigjayjay1]

Great site OK been having this problem after many suggestions its not solved. Setup now 7K front, SD middle, 5K rear I run a OS world and I cannot get even traction the front tires balloon like pancakes. Smart diff I run (2) .20 springs

Past setup was stock roller with (2) .15 springs same problem.

My drive train is free no issues any suggestions.

[losibob]

Hi guys how long should you let the frt center cvd drive pin wear before replacing it ? Mine is worn to about 1/2 the diameter that it was new so therefor has lots of slop the truggy seems to drive fine. Just wondeing what everyone else is doing if anything to fix this high wear problem

thanks bob:)

[Todd Hodge]

Check it out. We have some new products for the 8IGHT/T 2.0.

What's New? (http://www.losi.com/Search/Default.aspx?IsNew=True&SortBy=LatestRelease)

[Kicker]

that new stuff looks good. Any idea when we can buy it......

[Todd Hodge]

that new stuff looks good. Any idea when we can buy it......

Late September for the Wheel Nuts and 12 Degree Caster Blocks. The 2pc center diff mount will be available late October.

[Robert "Wick" Wickham]

The center diff mount will be SWEET!! Can't wait till OCT!!!:D

[Buzz3]

What does the split mount do for us?

[Dan Ross]

the split mount will make it easier to remove the center diff, for servicing, or swap it with another.

[aaron joy]

Hello Mr. Ross, do you ever run a smart diff and if so where and what setup? Can I pit for you this weekend Sir?:p

[Reggie L]

Hello Mr. Ross, do you ever run a smart diff and if so where and what setup? Can I pit for you this weekend Sir?:p

lmao....:D

aaron we gota get you on youtube with thoes brutal burps dude..lol

[Dan Ross]

Hello Mr. Ross, do you ever run a smart diff and if so where and what setup? Can I pit for you this weekend Sir?:p

Aaron!! you are the man!

[aaron joy]

You racing truggy Sunday? Thats all Im running, going to try a little different setup (40wt, 54 in the frt.)

Reggie, that was no burp that was my mating call. :D

[Dan Ross]

Yes to truggy, let me know how the changes to your truggy feel.. see ya there!

[underway]

What size wrench fits the engine mounting screws that mount from the top? Need a good ball driver.

[Reggie L]

You racing truggy Sunday? Thats all Im running, going to try a little different setup (40wt, 54 in the frt.)

Reggie, that was no burp that was my mating call. :D

lmao...i bust out laughin at that...man i was wondering y adam looked at you like that :D

let me know too since i told ya :cool:

[Mike Kendall]

underway-3/32

[plod]

What size wrench fits the engine mounting screws that mount from the top? Need a good ball driver.

underway-3/32

As mike says 3/32, but although I own the losi 3/32 and the ball end 3/32, I personally use a schumacher 3/32 driver which has a longer tip to do the engine mount screws as it saves you rapping your knuckles against the cooloing head

[Muggydude]

Breaking in my truck this weekend, I can't wait!

[LOSIGUY]

I have a question for the team losi guys. Will losi make an electric version 2 truggy race roller? I am racer version 1 converted right now and i love it.

[underway]

I found one of my shock ends stripped when I pulled the truck out of the box. Should I replace them all just to be safe?

[Losi_Racer]

Hey guys, little question.

Right now i am running the stock set up except 32.5 oil in rear and adjustable hinge pin brace(3/3)

I am liking how it handles just wish it pushed just a tad less. I ran 108 droop in front, helped a little onpower but hurt off power to much to be any good. if i want more off power steering do i do more front droop?

[cdbias]

underway---I would replace them all just to be safe. Might save you a shock shaft in the long run. "Bill" at Losi has been extremely helpful to people when it comes to replacing those parts. They are only a couple of bucks but if they are stripped in the box they will gladly replace the parts for you.

Hope you enjoy the truck. It's a blast to drive!:D

[UberBricky]

I also will be buying a 2.0 roller, with plans of putting my plettenburg/schulze combo in, and to race next year. So far I plan on using SD's, the mentioned setups on this thread, is there anything else you gents suggest?

Thanks!

[Muggydude]

I'm breaking in my truggy right now, about half way through. This engine runs like a dream!

[woodgp]

hi.guys..first post,iam in the middle east working in the state of QATAR near Bahrian,from prince edward island canada...just bought a truggy 2.0 in canada from Great hobbies,they have a track here going out to see it this weekend no losi dealer here so i think i will have the only one in the country...wait till they see this baby go!!..hope this post works and look forward to checking in all the chat...joe wood:)

[Casey Peck]

welcome Joe!

[billy]

hello all...i have recently purchaced the 8-t 2.0 rtr truggy, it is awsome i really enjoy it, but there is one thing i do not enjoy is the fact that in the 2 months that i have had it i have had to replace the servos twice each,,can anybody tell me what would be a better servo to put in ,,...thanks:confused:

[Robert "Wick" Wickham]

hello all...i have recently purchaced the 8-t 2.0 rtr truggy, it is awsome i really enjoy it, but there is one thing i do not enjoy is the fact that in the 2 months that i have had it i have had to replace the servos twice each,,can anybody tell me what would be a better servo to put in ,,...thanks:confused:

What servos are you running now???:confused:

[Don Vinkemulder]

hello all...i have recently purchaced the 8-t 2.0 rtr truggy, it is awsome i really enjoy it, but there is one thing i do not enjoy is the fact that in the 2 months that i have had it i have had to replace the servos twice each,,can anybody tell me what would be a better servo to put in ,,...thanks:confused:

Make sure the servos are not touching the chassis and the side guards. Higher end servos are recommended for 1/8th scale vehicles. Ensure your end points are set by the manual/supplement instructions.

[Don Vinkemulder]

Hey guys, little question.

Right now i am running the stock set up except 32.5 oil in rear and adjustable hinge pin brace(3/3)

I am liking how it handles just wish it pushed just a tad less. I ran 108 droop in front, helped a little onpower but hurt off power to much to be any good. if i want more off power steering do i do more front droop?

Increase the rear droop for more off power steering. Are you running a SD? If you are, what SD set-up are you running? Also what is your brake bias set? The truggy can use a lot more rear then front. May want to try backing off your front brake.

[Don Vinkemulder]

A little tip that may help some out. I have heard a couple issues with the axle set screws that hold the wheel hex pin has been rounding out when dis-assembling. Try a 2.0mm good quality hex driver instead of a 5/64ths. The 2.0mm fits tighter in the hex.

[suzuki rig runner]

I have the Race Roller with the JR Z9100HVT and Z9100HVS servos, im using the Spectrum SR3100 receiver and a Losi LOSB9820 LiPo Receiver Pack the problem i'm having is the power switch. I need to find a switch that can handle the power of the battery, any thoughts?

[Neobart]

I replaced the BEC connectors with Deans micro and run without a switch. I can just get to the connectors to plug/un-plug them without taking the body off. They should be able to handle any kind of power a rx battery puts out. :cool:


http://forum.losi.com/picture.php?albumid=38&pictureid=345

[LVBaja]

A little tip that may help some out. I have heard a couple issues with the axle set screws that hold the wheel hex pin has been rounding out when dis-assembling. Try a 2.0mm good quality hex driver instead of a 5/64ths. The 2.0mm fits tighter in the hex.

Great tip. I tried this on my cars last night, and it works great. I also noticed that the 2.0mm hex wrench works good on the four screws that hold the diff cases together.

[Losi_Racer]

A little tip that may help some out. I have heard a couple issues with the axle set screws that hold the wheel hex pin has been rounding out when dis-assembling. Try a 2.0mm good quality hex driver instead of a 5/64ths. The 2.0mm fits tighter in the hex.

also tried this last night. Works great. Not one stripped.

But got new body painted heres pics



http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z130/cookie934/IMG_0255.jpg

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z130/cookie934/IMG_0258.jpg

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z130/cookie934/IMG_0259.jpg

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z130/cookie934/IMG_0261.jpg

[TIX]

I replaced the BEC connectors with Deans micro and run without a switch. I can just get to the connectors to plug/un-plug them without taking the body off. They should be able to handle any kind of power a rx battery puts out. :cool:


http://forum.losi.com/picture.php?albumid=38&pictureid=345

I've been running mine like that for about a year now. the only difference with mine is that i have now made the origional hole in the battery box larger so that the deans plug fits through that hole
when i used to do it the way you have it in your photo i had it get caught and come unplugged a few times causing runaways.
every since i started taking it through the origional hole ive never had a drama. it seems to stay inside the mud guard better

Heres what mine looks like
you can still get to it without taking the body off
353

[suzuki rig runner]

Thanks Neobart & Tix for the help. Next question, will the transponder be fine or do I need to put resistor in line?

[jetmech]

PT's are fine unregulated

[Ruune]

quick question, regarding the stock body... forgive me if it's been covered already. Are you guys cutting the body in front of the heat sink, or is there enough air coming over the top to cool?
The area to the left of the heatsink is what I'm referring to:
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p271/Ruune531/topsmall2.jpg
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p271/Ruune531/topsmall.jpg

Mad props go to the team that put this thing together. Many of the little things that I would think "it'd be cool if..." have been done right out of the box.

[Losi_Racer]

quick question, regarding the stock body... forgive me if it's been covered already. Are you guys cutting the body in front of the heat sink, or is there enough air coming over the top to cool?
The area to the left of the heatsink is what I'm referring to:


Mad props go to the team that put this thing together. Many of the little things that I would think "it'd be cool if..." have been done right out of the box.


First off sick body, second off

no need to cut anymore then what came out of the box. the way they designed the body was for more air to go across the head so no need for cutting


BTW TIX

thanks for that tip on the micro deans. My dad switch kept turning off, and so i told and showed him your post, he loved it so much he had my get some and solder it together. worked great this weeked. I may even put some on my battery to my switch so i dont have to use the zip tie to keep the conectors together

[underway]

What size screw are folks using to hold the rear camberlink onto the tower. The one included with the kit is too short. That took me out of a race this weekend :(

[aaron joy]

Use these ones:
http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA6282

[GMS Racing]

Use these ones:
http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA6282


yeah if you use these theres room for a locknut..i changed all my shock tower mounting screws to the 7/8 ones also

[tiger200350]

Has Losi made any running changes to the new truggy kits?

[GMS Racing]

I got mine about two months ago and got the new brake pads and they also went back to the 1.0 steering bellcrank

[aaron joy]

Don't forget you get a tank lid puller as well.

[Ruune]

I got mine about two months ago and got the new brake pads and they also went back to the 1.0 steering bellcrank


I just got mine last week... I noticed that the new brake pads are black. What's the difference between these and the white ones on my 2.0 buggy?

[tiger200350]

Thanks for the update guys. I am looking forward to getting the truck!

[cdbias]

The new brakes (black) have better stopping power and are more consistent over the long run.

[Ruune]

Awesome... looking forward to running this thing at RC Pro this weekend!

[Joel Daigle]

I'm a question???

Why losi is don't a more big receiver pack???

Because my receiver is compressed in.

the problem is version 1.0 and don't resolved to 2.0???:confused:

[TIX]

if you are having trouble with fitting in the pack you can trim the foam down to give yourself more room

[ggoosen]

I got mine about two months ago and got the new brake pads and they also went back to the 1.0 steering bellcrank

How do you know if you have the new or old?

[Robert "Wick" Wickham]

ggoosen, Which are you asking about?? the brakes or the bellcrank??

[ggoosen]

sorry guy..

i meant to ask about the steering arm. that is back to v1...

i got the kit with the black brakes and the fuel lid puller.

how do i know i have the correct servo saver..

i dont want to mess up my futaba BLS

[Robert "Wick" Wickham]

You should have the updated verision, The bellcrank is more rounded with less of a "V" shape to it. I will try and find a picture for you to see.

[Robert "Wick" Wickham]

Here are some pictures,
405 This is the new bellcrank

406 this is the old one.

hope this helps you.

[Briguy]

Anyone have a setup for indoor clay track ? I can`t find one anywhere :confused:

[ABURTON]

where do you run? is it slick or grooved?

We run a lot of indoors like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgOVq7qv6zA

we always stick pretty close to the adam drake setup on the losi site as it seems to work very well.

[Briguy]

Alan , I run at Leisure Hours in Joliet , IL . Sometimes the track is slick .

For 1/10 2wd we run pink slicks when wet and then taper pins when dries up .

[jetmech]

I run the same setup indoor as I do outdoor.

[Briguy]

I run the same setup indoor as I do outdoor.

I don`t :D

[jetmech]

I don`t :D

You asked for a setup, the Truhe setup works just as good indoor as it does outdoor and yes I am running the same type of surface you are.

[Funkster]

Hi,

I recently changed my Losi 8T 1.0 for a 8T 2.0. Improved my lap times and have been alot more consistent, which is great!!

I had replaced the plastic chassis braces on my original 8T with the losi alliminium braces and front top cap. They would fit on the new 8T 2.0, but my question is:

Will they help improve the handling or any other aspect of the Truggy or are they really just a bit of 'bling'?

I assume that by fitting these, they will take a little flexibility out of the truggy.

Cheers

Funkster:)

[Robert "Wick" Wickham]

The only hop up parts I run on my truggy are the adjustable hinge pin braces and the rear hub carries, all that other stuff I consider it just BLING, But that is just me. I think the chassie brace make the truck to stiff. But that is just me.:D

[vinnie68]

Hello Casey,

just wondering if the losi aluminium braces offer any benefit to the truggy for club racing purposes?

cheers
vince

[Reggie L]

Hello Casey,

just wondering if the losi aluminium braces offer any benefit to the truggy for club racing purposes?

cheers
vince

im not casey but no not in all situations.... unless you have a very smooth track where you dnt need **** near any flex then yes...

but most track you need chasis flex it makes the truck drive way better...

i would stick with the plastic...

[vinnie68]

thanks reggie, i get that.. i'll stick with plastic

cheers

[vinnie68]

Hi,

I have just purchased the 8T roller and at this stage have only a new sirio CL3 Sports (21)
engine to install. Is this engine suitable for the 8T in the short term. Will it have enough torque?

Your advice greatly appreciated

[Reggie L]

thanks reggie, i get that.. i'll stick with plastic

cheers

nooo problem

[kjolly]

Hey casey,

My 9yr old son and i have only been driving for a year now and he run's a 2.0 B and I run a 2.0 T.

What do you think would be a good set up for us here in Florida, blue grove or less and dry dusty tracks.

Nova +4 in buggy and OS speed in truggy, Jconcepts tires, hitech 7955 servo's.

looking for diff oil weight, shocks, ride height, nothing big just a full set up, LOL

something that will turn good on and off power, would help us the most. well me anyways, hayden can kick mya$$.

Thanks see ya at WG maybe

[xxxtruck]

do you guys run the smart diffs in truggy ? Front, center, rear,

[kjolly]

we dont run them, it seems to be about 50/50 on the diff's so i havent tried them yet. but most seems to run front or center if they do. i dont know how to tune them if i did. I do have a few florida boys that will help .

[fpart]

Can anyone give me instructions on how to do the rear shock tower mod. I have heard it improves a lot.

[Reggie L]

Can anyone give me instructions on how to do the rear shock tower mod. I have heard it improves a lot.

king heads finaly made one...its called the v2 shock tower..its on amain...i posted a link to it on under casey's topic

[aaron joy]

Hey Tom, the idea is too add some more upper shock mounting holes outward. If you wait Losi is coming out with new towers as a running change. Like Reggie said King Headz has a V2 rear tower with the additional holes.

[cdbias]

I read in another forum that the Kings Headz tower with additional holes is not the same geometry as the new Losi tower. It's my understanding that the new Losi tower will be out in a few weeks.

[Reggie L]

the v1 version is not...but the v2 version is the same

[bigjayjay1]

Any setup sheets using the V2 ??

[bigjayjay1]

New Bell Crank: What are the advantages

[aaron joy]

I don't think there is any advantages, just less likely to break.

[Reggie L]

Any setup sheets using the V2 ??

you can use the same setup...just with the shorter rear links and the links are moved on the high level on the shock tower..

or you can put 42.5 in the front and 32.5 in the rear
54 piston in the front
56 in the rear

black springs all the way around..

[Euan]

Hi there,

When trying to tighten up my servo saver I accidently rounded the plastic servo saver arm on my 8T 2.0

I decided to buy the Aluminium Servo Saver Arm (LOSA4443). It arrived today, but it doesn't fit with the bellcrank ??

Any ideas? The plastic one has kind of chamfered endges, where the Alu one doesnt.

Cheers,
Euan

[LVBaja]

Depending upon how new your servo saver is for your truggy, it may be the older 2.0 version that had more pointed ends on it. Losi made a running change and switched back to the 1.0 style with more rounded ends. So, if you ended up buying the aluminum top that fits the older 2.0 version (pointed ends), it won't work with the 1.0 style (rounded ends), and vice versa. It's confusing, I know, but if you contact Losi, I bet they'll get you pointed in the right direction and send you what you need.

Here's a link to a post that shows the differences I'm talking about.

http://forum.losi.com/showpost.php?p=8242&postcount=84

[Mark K]

How much of a handeling difference is there with the new style rear tower? what's this mod about the rear camber rods being shorter or running the front rods in the rear? Can someone clarify this and what holes on the tower and holes on the knuckle are being used? Thanks.

[aaron joy]

Hello Mark,
If you want to run the short rear camber turnbuckle set-up you either have to cut 1/8 inch off the sides of the stock rear camber turnbuckles or buy a pair of the front camber links (perfect length) to replace the rear ones. The short rear camber link really locks the rear of the truck in, its almost like the rear follows the front around the track.

Rear tower mod is adding some more outbound upper shock mounting holes by adding extensions. Moving the shocks out will basically give you more cornerspeed.

I should have my King Headz V2 tower on this weekend I will let you know how it works out.

[khudzik]

I shot this video a little while back of my 2 buddies with Truggy Race Rollers battling it out in a casual setting on our race track. Don't know if some you guys have seen this already, it's been up on YouTube for about a month and a half now. Anyway, I didn't see a section for videos so I guess this thread would be the next most appropriate. It was the first video I ever shot and edited, what do you think? :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X52K3oQwjts

[nitrojunkie]

im completely new to the forum... im just announcing that i just recieved my losi 8-t rtr from horizon... i actually got it using a credit from a bad truck i bought new last month... all i have to say is this thing is absolutely SICK!!!!! ive never owned something as fast and smooth as the losi eight t 2.0 rtr.... its nasty !!!!.

anyhoo, i have encountered a few issues already that i believe should be addressed like the throttle servo dieing, and the carb slide binding... its really no big deal thow! truggy is awesome... 2 thumbs up

[LVBaja]

Sounds like you're having fun with your new truggy. You mentioned that the carb slide was binding, and then that the throttle servo stopped working, so I have to assume the servo burnt out trying to pull past the sticky area in carb slide. The RTR servos are known to be weak to begin with, so when you throw in the fact that the servo is pulling as hard as it can to unstick a carb slide, I'm guessing that was just too much for it. 8th scale nitro is very demanding on servos, and you'll find that most serious racers end up biting the bullet and purchasing the best or nearly the best servos on the market to eliminate potential failure like you just experienced. You can play around with cheaper servos for a while, but eventually, you're going to have to buy some good ones. The "good ones" are going to run you in the $100 per servo range, so just get ready. The good news is that once you have good servos and proper end point adjustments set on your radio, you should be good for a long time.

[nitrojunkie]

im a little upset about the servo burning out now that i know its a known issue. the more i think about it, the more i feel that losi should of addressed the problem. im glad to see im not the first one to have issues, but if i was a newb, i think i would be pretty upset that i dropped down a ton of cash to only use it for a day... it comes with the best of everything,except servos... doesnt make sense.

regardless, i love the truck. it certainly is the cadillac of all my rc stuff. i currently feel ashamed that i back yard bashed it on my wet muddy oval, and chased the dog with it.. i have ALOT of cleaning to do to it now and im guessing its going to be a all day chore. living in central ny, the snow is coming and its going to drive me nuts looking at it hanging on my wall, not being able to use it for a good 4-6 months. i plan on racing it as soon as the local tracks open up in the spring. i havent raced in a good 10 years, but hopefully my groove will come back when i do. ive always wanted to be sponsored and have fun doing it, but i would be happy writing reviews from a consumer standpoint. currently, im dreaming, but ill get some races under my belt and see what happens. ill be sticking with nitro, electric is actually out of my budget range. i was going to race the local indoor clay oval, but its actually twice the money. its 4 bills for a edm roller,batteries are threw the roof, and lipo and brushless is a whole new ball game to me... i would have 12-1500 per car... i like my 8-t 2.0 much better

[Briguy]

1. the truggy should just flat out come with the damb receiver battery charger... i bought 1 for $7.99... cost would be like 2 dollars... is that a big deal to throw in a 800 dollar truck kit?
2. the truck, before even using it,needs lexan splash gaurds in front of the rear a-arms... it collects alot of junk there and clogs up with grass/dirt.leaves.ect... cost, well, pennies $...
3. the carb is set super super rich from the factory, any average joe is not going to know what to do.... the motor bound up the first time i tried to start it, and it got stuck on top dead center... i removed the glow plug, but had to pull the head off, and run the truck on the starter box to break in the piston and sleeve, before i commenced starting it...
4. the 6th tank of fuel(using odonnell 20%) i noticed the carb slide binding... it just wasnt opening all the way... the way the linkage is, its a little off kilter and pulls at a diagnal and not straight in and out... moving the carb slightly or even a little longer servo horn would fix the problem... i also lubed the carb with gun oil, its super light weight and made for precision stainless metals...
5. now this last comment is the whole reason i posted here... the throttle servo is dead by the 7th tank of gas... i dont know what happened, but its dead...switched the steering servo in the throttle location and the output of the receiver works... again, i dont know what happened... it just quit... at first i thought it was a fail safe, but its not... any suggestions? replace with what? does it have to be digital? nitrojunkie

1. Most people already have battery chargers which is why they don`t include one . So after getting a $800 truggy , your complaining about having to spend $8 , which is 1% of the truggy price ?

2. Welcome to 1/8 scale . It is not Losi`s fault , they all do that .

3. The factory can`t set the carb for every different area the truck gets shipped to . Factory settings are a starting point . Depending on climate changes will need to be made , that is a given .

4. It happens sometime after breaking in the engine . Not Losi`s fault . after running around between engine running and vibration from the truck , things do sometimes move , like the carb . I take it this is your first Losi 1/8 . The linkage is not going to be perfectly straight like some other brands .

5. Most RTRs come with cheap servos and need replaced with a dependable one . Your replacement doesn`t have to be digital . If you go buy a different brand servo you will need to change the insert in the servo horn , should of came with .


All in all it sounds like you are new to nitro and 1/8 . Maybe you should do some homework before calling out Losi or Adam and acting like this is their fault .

[pballer2777]

when u put the new shorter camber link do u move it to a diff postion on the hub side?

[nitrojunkie]

1. Most people already have battery chargers which is why they don`t include one . So after getting a $800 truggy , your complaining about having to spend $8 , which is 1% of the truggy price ?

2. Welcome to 1/8 scale . It is not Losi`s fault , they all do that .

3. The factory can`t set the carb for every different area the truck gets shipped to . Factory settings are a starting point . Depending on climate changes will need to be made , that is a given .

4. It happens sometime after breaking in the engine . Not Losi`s fault . after running around between engine running and vibration from the truck , things do sometimes move , like the carb . I take it this is your first Losi 1/8 . The linkage is not going to be perfectly straight like some other brands .

5. Most RTRs come with cheap servos and need replaced with a dependable one . Your replacement doesn`t have to be digital . If you go buy a different brand servo you will need to change the insert in the servo horn , should of came with .


All in all it sounds like you are new to nitro and 1/8 . Maybe you should do some homework before calling out Losi or Adam and acting like this is their fault .

a little harsh but understood. i was over thinking it and was thinking that bugs in the prototypes would have been worked out, before releasing it to the public. i guess i was thinking wrong. i do know this is a hobby and s@#% happens, its all part of the game. im not new to 8th scale,or rc. i have quite the collection.if you read, everything i staighted was that i was extemely pleased with my losi product.

i know im new to this forum, and im not here to step on toes. my heart is always in the right place, and im only here to have fun. the last post, i didnt intend to call out anyone, but i hope that it will help when the next truggy comes out and it would be that much better. just like any forum, im here to learn. im not into gibberish or bickering

[cdbias]

pballer--- With the short camber link setup you go to the inside hole on the hub.

[lomdel]

Which of the RE10 or RE11 Losi pipes are you guys running on your T's?
With the Turbo head conversion, which OS glow plug would you recommend?

[Reggie L]

Which of the RE10 or RE11 Losi pipes are you guys running on your T's?
With the Turbo head conversion, which OS glow plug would you recommend?

the rtr?...i would recomend a re10

[Reggie L]

1. Most people already have battery chargers which is why they don`t include one . So after getting a $800 truggy , your complaining about having to spend $8 , which is 1% of the truggy price ?

2. Welcome to 1/8 scale . It is not Losi`s fault , they all do that .

3. The factory can`t set the carb for every different area the truck gets shipped to . Factory settings are a starting point . Depending on climate changes will need to be made , that is a given .

4. It happens sometime after breaking in the engine . Not Losi`s fault . after running around between engine running and vibration from the truck , things do sometimes move , like the carb . I take it this is your first Losi 1/8 . The linkage is not going to be perfectly straight like some other brands .

5. Most RTRs come with cheap servos and need replaced with a dependable one . Your replacement doesn`t have to be digital . If you go buy a different brand servo you will need to change the insert in the servo horn , should of came with .


All in all it sounds like you are new to nitro and 1/8 . Maybe you should do some homework before calling out Losi or Adam and acting like this is their fault .

just to add to number 3.... all motors you buy need to be broken in...hence the rich settings and geting stuck at the top of the cylinder...

lol funny stuff to read tho, i must say (not talking about briguy btw)...

[jester_358]

first off i love my 8ight t 2.0
i have 2 major things i would love to fix though with my setups

indoor season is starting and i am going to being doing alot of 180's
i am using the complete stock setup and it seems to push alittle all the way through the turn in the 180's track is very hard packed and enough traction you could almost runs slicks normally anyways

my other setup question would be is there any setup that drives good that isn't bottoming out on approach oh big triples the tracks i run on i end up having alot of trouble clearing the triples due to scrubbing the speed off at the bottom of the hill from the back end mainly dragging i have tried running the ride height up all around just in the back stiffer oil in the rear and nothing seems to even come close thinking might have to go to stiffer springs?

any help would be wonderful thanks all for your time

[inferno]

stiffer spring will do the job as long as you have good oil, i run 40wt in rear with black springs, ive found that the stiffer the suspension the better it jumps, but doesent hadle for crap on corners, have to find happy medium, look for set-up tips, they are all over, everybody like differnt so im not advising anything, you may not like what i run, good luck

[toddmcm]

Hey guys, new to the forum, but OLD school racer. Been out of it for about a year or so since I last raced. Raced a lot of 1/10 Stock Truck, 4wd Mod and some 2wd nitro truck back in the day. Pretty much always been a Losi guy.

Anyhow, bought two new kits. (2.0 e and 2.0 T) Just finished putting together my 2.0 Truggy. Put a .24 ExTech 2 Fully Modded and HiTech 7955TG Servos.

Noticed only one thing so far. Right out of the box, the rear wheels seem to have TONS of play in them. It seems that it's in the caster blocks.

Is this normal? I noticed there is an aluminum upgrade part. Is this one of the things you guys are replacing right out of the box?

I read this entire thread and plan on looking closely at the diffs after I race tomorrow to re-shim as necessary. Anything else I should look for, replace right away?

I'll be headed out to Revelation Raceway for my first race in over a year. Should be fun!

Any input is greatly appreciated. :D

[Muggydude]

Congrats on the new trucks, you will love them. About the slop in the wheels, that is normal. It's almost the more slop the better! One of the first mods/ upgrades you should do is get some J-Dub modified hubs from Bluegrasshobbies.com
( http://www.bluegrasshobbies.com/bg/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2504 ). The stock ones will blow bearings all the time, and these pretty much solve the problem. I don't know if they have switched out the servo saver in the newer kits, but if not you should pick up an 8-T 1.0 servo saver assembly. Check your shock ends to see if they are stripped, some of them come like that. An aluminum top plate is a good upgrade to get, though not required. Also check on your kit and see if they brake disks are yellow or black. If they are yellow you might want to switch to the newer, thicker black disks. The rear aluminum diff inserts are more durable than stock, and will ,last longer (I currently don't have them, but plan on it.) The last one is Lightened HD diff and CVD outrives throughout the truck, they are stronger, lighter, and will last longer than stock. Losi also just came out with the V2 Rear shock tower which is a big performance improver, I'm backordering mine today. I also have the quick change engine mount, it allow me to keep my engine mesh the same while work on the engine off of the truck.

To summarize, here it goes as to what to get:

1. J-Dub Modded rear hubs and bearings
2. 8T 1.0 Servo Saver (Unless the new kits are updated)
3. Black Brake Disks (Unless they come stock)
4. Rear Aluminum Diff Inserts
5. Lightened HD Outdrives
6. Aluminum Top Plate
7. Quick Change Engine Mount
8. V2 Shock Tower
9. Dynamite Max-Life Clutch shoes (good replacement after the stocker wear out)

The first 3 are the most important, and the rest are really just optional, though they are all good upgrades.

Hope this helps!

[toddmcm]

GREAT INFO! Thanks for taking the time, it is appreciated.

I raced tonight and had a blast! Got some help from the local gurus and got the motor tuned and running great.

The truck ran flawlessly. Few screws came loose after about 5 runs, which is to be expected. Glad I checked when I did though, was about to loose a lower shock mount completely. I have the black disc brakes and updated servo saver. Will replace the rear hubs once they blow out.

Some fast guys at the track tonight (Revelation Raceway), and they only run one group, so it's TOUGH for a guy that hasn't raced in quite some time but I still had a blast.

QUESTION: I'm looking for an article on HOW to rebuild the diffs and proper shim technique. Anybody have the info I'm looking for? I'm hoping it's not too hard or time consuming.

THANKS AGAIN!!!! :cool:

[GMS Racing]

Anyone know where the team drivers are runnin the camber links on the V2 tower and where on the hubs...thanks

[g26er]

Anyone know where the team drivers are runnin the camber links on the V2 tower and where on the hubs...thanks

http://forum.losi.com/showpost.php?p=15394&postcount=340

Looks like lower / ouside... Not sure on the hubs. Hope that helps.

[Rookie]

Hi guys,
I have been a proud owner of the T 2.o for a year now, I unfortunaly have been playing tag with Bill Goldsmith. I have been a losi guy since I have been in the hobby and this was a great purchase. I was bummed to see that fresh out of the box with my end points set shallow I cracked a front wheel the first day of pratice. I have also had the dreded joy of have 2 set of Losi Bump box motors burn out along with other great failures. I believe that by now my warenty on things are now up, and that is sad as I have been trying to get things replaced since "The Dirt 09" I continue to be a loyal losi guy. But it is hard to keep the faith with the past history.

On a lighter side has anyone found a cure for the rear hub bearing blow out? I have tried upgrading to a better bearing and still with maint after every race I end up blowing a set out after about 3 races. I have started looking at the larger outter bearing hubs by kingheadz but I just hate adding weight to my rig.

thanks and regards

[Muggydude]

You should read the thread. My post above explains the "cure" for the rear hub problem.

[Uncle E]

Will Losa1754 and 1755 fit the 8T2.0?

[l3asher]

Will Losa1754 and 1755 fit the 8T2.0?

Yes .

[Rookie]

l3asher thanks for the heads up. I have seen the larger outter hubs before, was wondering what the factory guys are running to remidy this issue. As well are they having the same issue with the rears going out? If so you think that this would be something that Losi would look to resolve for future releases. The 2.0 so far has been very reliable, with the minor few annoyances. Wondering as well if there are any other little tricks and tips that the team drivers have stumbled on that never get mentioned :)

[moosenitro00]

I just purchase a Losi 8ight-t, converting over from a Kyosho STRR,
sure could use some tip's.

thank's,
moose.

[Robert "Wick" Wickham]

I just purchase a Losi 8ight-t, converting over from a Kyosho STRR,
sure could use some tip's.

thank's,
moose.

What would you like to know?? if you race you will need the front and read adjustable hinge pins and the aluminum rear hubs. :D

[VANAIR]

i would definatley get the new v2 rear tower. makes a huge difference

[moosenitro00]

This will be my second season racing Truggy, i raced PMT before that "3-years".
I've just never owned a losi until now. I think this 8ight-T 2.0 will race alot
better that the old STRR.

Any part's tip's, set-up tip's, i would like to here them. Thank's for the one's posted.

Moose.:)

[Rookie]

moose what type of track do you have locally? this helps in the set up suggestions.

[dubgixxer]

new here and looking to get a 8ight t 2.0 race roller and was wondering if i need to purchase a clutch and flywheel or does it come included, also if it does not I am looking to purchase a werks b5 to power the beast and wondering what clutch spring shoe combo would be best thanks.

[LVBaja]

new here and looking to get a 8ight t 2.0 race roller and was wondering if i need to purchase a clutch and flywheel or does it come included, also if it does not I am looking to purchase a werks b5 to power the beast and wondering what clutch spring shoe combo would be best thanks.

The roller comes with the clutch and flywheel. The clutch has four aluminum shoes with two gold and two green springs. This seems to be the best setup to start with, and then you can tune from there if needed (although probably not needed).

[dubgixxer]

Thanks for the reply glad to hear it will have a clutch with a good setup already, so on he subject of what is needed when getting into a race roller what else will I need, I already have a hitec metal gear servo that I had in a revo and I have a spectrum dx3s on the way and I am undecided on what starter box to get a losi one ment for the truck Or anouther anything else I will be needing

[LVBaja]

Sounds like you're gathering the stuff you'll need to get the truck ready. You said you have a Hitec metal gear servo, but which one? If you only have one, you'll also need another for the other channel, as the DX3S doesn't come with servos. You mentioned you had a Revo before, so I'm assuming you have a fuel bottle and glow ignitor. For the starter box, you should go with the new Losi box. It can be used for both buggy and truggy (1.0 or 2.0). The part number is LOSA99059.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/155332/n/Team-Losi-8IGHT-8IGHT-T-20-Universal-Starter-Box

[dubgixxer]

Hs-5995tg it is the highest torqe they had 2 years ago also for throttle I have all three that came with my platinume revo

[Muggydude]

Those servo's should be fine, though you may want to upgrade the throttle servo later on. as for the starter box, the losi one is good, but the OFNA Blue Truggy starter box with 4s lipos is the absolute best starter box on the market, and I have yet to find someone who would dispute that. I have it, run it, and love it. The losi one is however, nice and if you have both an 8-T 2.0 and 8ight 2.0 it is very convenient when switching from starting one to the other. I know that the older losi starter boxes have had crappy wiring, I don't know if they fixed the problem with the new one.

[Rookie]

I have the standard first gen losi boox, and I am running the ofna blue box motors, plate and belt in.... starts a brand new Nova P5 with no issues on a 12v gel cell, and will last me 2 -3 races on a full charge. :)

[dubgixxer]

Thanks for all the great replies, i don't think i am going lipo the money is tight for that kida stuff, but am looking at the losi boxes on ebay, going to try and snatch one up cheap. again thanks for the replies

[Mark K]

I have been running a .24 engine in my 8T 2.0. So from the day I got it I immediately swapped out the 50 tooth spur gear with my old 48 tooth one. I am now going to be running a JS .21 and have installed a light weight 50 tooth spur. I noticed that the gear hangs just below the chassis. Has anyone ever had an issue with it being that low? I was thinking of shimming the center diff up a little higher so the spur gear is level with the chassis.

[Reggie L]

I have been running a .24 engine in my 8T 2.0. So from the day I got it I immediately swapped out the 50 tooth spur gear with my old 48 tooth one. I am now going to be running a JS .21 and have installed a light weight 50 tooth spur. I noticed that the gear hangs just below the chassis. Has anyone ever had an issue with it being that low? I was thinking of shimming the center diff up a little higher so the spur gear is level with the chassis.

never had a prob... how bad is your chasis worn? that could be a factor

[cdbias]

When I run a 50 tooth it hangs out a little bit. It's not a problem.

[Mark K]

My chassis isn't really worn down much at all. I guess I won't worry about it, thanks.

[Rokitman]

I was thinkin about the nova toro nero for my 8t 2.0. Ya'lls feed back on tis would be nice. What ya think?

[Token]

OS is not making Vspec anymore :(

[l3asher]

I just ordered that Mike Thrue Engine.... Since OS is not making Vspec anymore :(

Os is coming out with a new 21. :D

[Token]

Yes they are, the Vspec line is done. They are releasing the last version limited addition engine. See Redcat or Neobuggy for more info - or visit the OS website.... They are out dated engines, they have been around for a while........ I gonna try the orion engines, wanted to try last year and found out they were doing something with Losi so I waited... we will see........... I hope they are good engines that will last a litlle bit longer than the vpecs....

[gtr]

Does anyone can tell me the 8T 2.0 chassis & shock tower is made by 6061 or 7075 ?

[Don Vinkemulder]

I have just run this new V2 tower, it performed very well. The truck turns on a dime now. And in a very predictable way. I made all the changes to the rear at the same time. Outer upper shock mount location, outer lower camber link on the tower, inner camber link mount on the hub, 2.0mm rear bar, and the adjustable rear arm pivot mounts. The truck performed the best it has ever had on track. Very pleased.

On a side note, if you want to run this camber link positions, you need to either cut the existing camber links shorter, or get another set of front camber links, they are shorter then the rears.

[Don Vinkemulder]

Does anyone can tell me the 8T 2.0 chassis & shock tower is made by 6061 or 7075 ?

I am going to try and find the answer for you.

[cdbias]

Don, Regarding the V2 Tower.....I had emailed Adam and he said that he was still using his Silver state setup with the V2 Tower. Only difference is that he was using the outer shock mounting hole on the tower. From what I read in the email it didn't sound like he was using the new camber holes or the 2.0 sway bar.

Sooo...is this just a preference from driver to driver or is this setup something that all of the team guys are doing?

[Robert "Wick" Wickham]

I am running the V2 shock tower, Here is how I run it. outer hole top of shock tower, inner lower hole for the camber link and the same hole on the rear hub. The truck handles killer through the woops and you can carry way more corner speed. I did not do all the other thins Like don did. But the truck is way better for me with the new shock tower.

[Don Vinkemulder]

Don, Regarding the V2 Tower.....I had emailed Adam and he said that he was still using his Silver state setup with the V2 Tower. Only difference is that he was using the outer shock mounting hole on the tower. From what I read in the email it didn't sound like he was using the new camber holes or the 2.0 sway bar.

Sooo...is this just a preference from driver to driver or is this setup something that all of the team guys are doing?

You are correct. I am running what Billy Fischer and Casey Peck have been running. It is a preference thing so you don't have to do all the changes if you don't want to. I am just trying to get my Truggy to handle and drive as close to the buggy as I can.

I am sure if you do the upper shock location change, you will notice a big improvement.

[cdbias]

Thanks Don. I like the feeling of a buggy in my truck as well. I think if you can get used to the "twitchiness" that it can be to your advantage especially on some of the smaller/tighter tracks.

[ggdigital]

what is the run time on the rtr?

[barrydidntknow]

When cleaning up my T 2.0 i noticed a sound like a zipper when rolling the truggy on its rear wheels. I pulled the rear gear box and diff, all the gears are still in perfect shape and there is plenty of grease on the pinion and diff gear. I noticed that depending on the amount of pressure put on the rear center cvd the mesh between the diff gear and the pinion would bind. It also happens if i squeeze the diff housing. Im thinking I need to shim the pinion gear but would like to hear some of the experts opinions on what and how I should resolve the issue. Thanks in advance and by the way, this losi ripps with my clockwerks modded picco!!!!!!!

[Neobart]

I would check the shimming, and also check that the bearings are tight in the case.

[barrydidntknow]

I would check the shimming, and also check that the bearings are tight in the case.

Would shimming the diff(side to side) affect its mesh with the pinion or should I try to shim the pinion gear?

[Neobart]

You shimm the diff. Too tight you move a shim to the opposite side of the ring gear, to loose you move a shim to ring gear side.

http://forum.losi.com/picture.php?albumid=38&pictureid=730

[barrydidntknow]

Gotcha. Thanks guys.

[jasonkylelosi]

hey guys please help me wit steering i am really batling i have the losi2.0 truggy!!!!????

[Token]

hey guys please help me wit steering i am really batling i have the losi2.0 truggy!!!!????
what problems are you having with steering?

[lomdel]

Yes Jason, what seems to be the issue? Would love to give the SA champion some advice...

[damang999]

hi all
adam on your setup sheets for the truggy it says you use black front springs at 3.4 lbs and standard setup sheet says black springs at 5.0 lbs.
are you using rear buggy springs on the front or something.
thanks in advance
james

[Token]

i think black is 3.4lbs and is the front for the truggy, LOSA5459 the 5.0 ones are for the rear of a buggy.

[Angelo D]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
i tried the outer set 1st at motorama this year the track was blow out with dust.. but had some groove.. and alot of holes.. i want to try something different each round and i do agree with don bout the sway bar and camber rod.. wasnt that good on that big sweeping track but will be awsome on a small blue groove

[OLM Racing]

I am wanting to get a truggy and for sure its going to be the Losi 8ight-T 2.0 but after reading all of this about the rear diff and all the servo problems I just really need to know if it's going to hold up or what I need to do to make sure it does..

I want to run the JLR .28 Picco Team Turbo with a JP3 pipe.. I have no clue now what servos to run or if the truck is even going to handle the power from the picco..

I need a little help from you pros about what to do.. I don't want to end up with a bunch of problems.. I just want to go out and have fun with a really fast truck.. I have a HPI Super Nitro RS4 that does 90+ so I'm looking to build a truggy that is just as insane to drive.. Please get back to me..:confused:

[Muggydude]

i wouldn't go with a 28, you should go with a clockworks racing modified JPX .21, way more mileage and insane bottom end. For servos, you can't go wrong with two Hitec 7955s, they are killer. I personally haven't had any problems with the rear diff, but you can buy some aluminum bearing lockers for it, which will help a lot. Just make sure it is shimmed right and you should be ok. The servo problem is mainly due to weak servos, the higher end ones like I mentioned will hold up for years.

[OLM Racing]

Thanks muggy dude.. I will look into that.. I figured bigger is better but I dont want to be broke down every weekend..

[Hate2Looz]

Hi all. Just wanting to know if the truggy race rollers are now shipping with the V2 rear tower and updated brake discs? I'm getting mine within the next few weeks but I can hold off till the end of April if need be to get these most important upgrades.

Can't wait to get it and start running it. Turning my 2.0 buggy into an electric asap after I
get the truggy too. Can't get rid of it, I'd miss driving it too much!

[l3asher]

Hi all. Just wanting to know if the truggy race rollers are now shipping with the V2 rear tower and updated brake discs? I'm getting mine within the next few weeks but I can hold off till the end of April if need be to get these most important upgrades.

Can't wait to get it and start running it. Turning my 2.0 buggy into an electric asap after I
get the truggy too. Can't get rid of it, I'd miss driving it too much!

Brakes yes, shock tower no, the tower is an upgrade option.

[Token]

I am wanting to get a truggy and for sure its going to be the Losi 8ight-T 2.0 but after reading all of this about the rear diff and all the servo problems I just really need to know if it's going to hold up or what I need to do to make sure it does..

I want to run the JLR .28 Picco Team Turbo with a JP3 pipe.. I have no clue now what servos to run or if the truck is even going to handle the power from the picco..

I need a little help from you pros about what to do.. I don't want to end up with a bunch of problems.. I just want to go out and have fun with a really fast truck.. I have a HPI Super Nitro RS4 that does 90+ so I'm looking to build a truggy that is just as insane to drive.. Please get back to me..:confused:


The rear diff, just get the alum bearing inserts, and take your time to shim it. I always carry a extra diff case with me just in case.

Servos - Hitec HV series or JR 9100 series or JR HV which are just over priced for me.

Stick with a 21 engines. You really dont need a mod engine for sportsman racing.

Just when you get it, take the whole thing apart and rebuild, you wont be sorry.

[Grimlock]

i wouldn't go with a 28, you should go with a clockworks racing modified JPX .21, way more mileage and insane bottom end. For servos, you can't go wrong with two Hitec 7955s, they are killer. I personally haven't had any problems with the rear diff, but you can buy some aluminum bearing lockers for it, which will help a lot. Just make sure it is shimmed right and you should be ok. The servo problem is mainly due to weak servos, the higher end ones like I mentioned will hold up for years.

Wow, that setup you recommend seems kinda familiar. (See my sig.) ;)

[Muggydude]

Funny, I just recomended what I think was best. I personally run a VSpec engine though. Kindof wish I had the pico though.

[Grimlock]

Also I got my 8ight-T 2.0 painted up. I now need to get a clear Ten-T body to paint with the same color scheme. I still need a 2nd set of servos and the engine, but those are on order. :)

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n317/bbechtold/2010-03-13/IMG_1005.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n317/bbechtold/2010-03-13/IMG_1004.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n317/bbechtold/2010-03-13/IMG_0999-1.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n317/bbechtold/2010-03-13/IMG_0997.jpg

[MARINI]

Hello guys, first time writting,

*** you know we are running south american champ on 21th of april, and the track its going to be on grass.

here is a video of the track, guillerom tell in rosario Argentina.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6QEKK2arhE&feature=fvsr

can you help me with some tips on my set up, i only had the truck 1 week ago, i race these weekend and was really great.


wait for your answer


thanks a lot


Lautaro Marini.






Post any questions about Team Losi's latest and greatest Truggy offering here.

[Neobart]

Run lots of negative camber, like 4 up front and 5 in the rear. It will be less likely to traction roll. Otherwise I would stick to the race roller setup.

[cdbias]

From the looks of that track I would personally just run the stock/Truhe/Drake setup. It didn't look like there were too many high speed corners with grass in them.

You could also try laying the front shock in on the tower or going to the outer shock mounting hole on the arms.

[nitrofish24]

just bought a truggy,have been running buggys,do any of you guys run the 12 dgree carriers on your truggy,they worked out great on my buggys and was looking for some input.thanks

[MARINI]

Run lots of negative camber, like 4 up front and 5 in the rear. It will be less likely to traction roll. Otherwise I would stick to the race roller setup.

Ok Neo im going to try it these weekend

Yes cb, its not high speed corners on grass, but!, we are use to run on dirt, and these track has too much tracktion roll, anyway im going to study mike T setup and original setup, and test to see diferences,

nitro, i hasent try the 12 D carriers yeat, i was thinking to buy it, but im not really sure....
any way thanks, if i get it i will tell you how was it!


Thanks a lot Guys!!

[Clockwork Nitro]

I am wanting to get a truggy and for sure its going to be the Losi 8ight-T 2.0 but after reading all of this about the rear diff and all the servo problems I just really need to know if it's going to hold up or what I need to do to make sure it does..

I want to run the JLR .28 Picco Team Turbo with a JP3 pipe.. I have no clue now what servos to run or if the truck is even going to handle the power from the picco..

I need a little help from you pros about what to do.. I don't want to end up with a bunch of problems.. I just want to go out and have fun with a really fast truck.. I have a HPI Super Nitro RS4 that does 90+ so I'm looking to build a truggy that is just as insane to drive.. Please get back to me..:confused:


Hello there... You will find that on the track a good .21 can usually give higher performance then a 28.. .21's have a much broader RPM range to use then the 28's do, tho a 28 may make make more peak power they usually don't have the broad useable RPM range of the .21's..In many cases the 28's have their power very focused in the low end and midrange, which unless you have awesome traction will just spin your tires....A good .21 will have more then enough power to spin the tires if needed, but will also carry its power much deeper into the RPM range then the 28 can...this usually results in better on track performance...... Now if you ever happen to race in muddy conditions then the power of a 28 can be a benefit, many of the 21's are tuned for normal track surfaces and can feel a little soft in the bottom end in the mud.....

Thanks for the kind words guys, I also do race prep engines that have some reliability mods done as well as a hand fitted piston... The advantage being a much easier to use engine that will be race ready in only a couple of tanks.....The hand fitted piston does give some performance advantages as well, but nothing too extreme....Mainly you will notice the engine will rev easier and smoother and tend to run cooler....

[MARINI]

Ok Neo im going to try it these weekend

Yes cb, its not high speed corners on grass, but!, we are use to run on dirt, and these track has too much tracktion roll, anyway im going to study mike T setup and original setup, and test to see diferences,

nitro, i hasent try the 12 D carriers yeat, i was thinking to buy it, but im not really sure....
any way thanks, if i get it i will tell you how was it!


Thanks a lot Guys!!


Im presenting my buggy and truggy losi!!!1

hope u like it.....

[Grimlock]

Glad to see you post on here Clockwork. I assume that is you Neal! I feel like I need to be on salary since I keep pushing your product. In the last 2 days I have sent two guys your e-mail and phone number. :)

[OLM Racing]

Hello there... You will find that on the track a good .21 can usually give higher performance then a 28.. .21's have a much broader RPM range to use then the 28's do, tho a 28 may make make more peak power they usually don't have the broad useable RPM range of the .21's..In many cases the 28's have their power very focused in the low end and midrange, which unless you have awesome traction will just spin your tires....A good .21 will have more then enough power to spin the tires if needed, but will also carry its power much deeper into the RPM range then the 28 can...this usually results in better on track performance...... Now if you ever happen to race in muddy conditions then the power of a 28 can be a benefit, many of the 21's are tuned for normal track surfaces and can feel a little soft in the bottom end in the mud.....

Thanks for the kind words guys, I also do race prep engines that have some reliability mods done as well as a hand fitted piston... The advantage being a much easier to use engine that will be race ready in only a couple of tanks.....The hand fitted piston does give some performance advantages as well, but nothing too extreme....Mainly you will notice the engine will rev easier and smoother and tend to run cooler....

Thanks foe the pointers, I went to the clockworks website but its not up, how do I get in touch with you guys for a motor?

[Grimlock]

Thanks foe the pointers, I went to the clockworks website but its not up, how do I get in touch with you guys for a motor?

You can reach them at: cobaltcanada@shaw.ca

[KevinM]

Does anyone use mud guards on their rear A arms? If so what do you use since Losi dosent make them to fit the 2.0T. Or do you not even worry about them and run the truck as is?

[Grimlock]

I wish I could find a set too. DE Racing needs to make a pair soon!

[cjetcam2]

I sent DE an email last week and they will have the mud guards for thr 8T 2.0 out shortly. I ordered a set of my buggy they are on the way!

[Rookie]

I am running rear guards on my arms. You can use the standard V1 guards, you just have to do some cutting. here is a pict of mine will get a better pict of the guards tonight and post them.

http://i50.tinypic.com/1znsg90.jpg
http://i49.tinypic.com/2n8572o.jpg

[Muggydude]

Might want to get a losi fuel tank pull, that ziptie will empty your tank the minute your truck flips. Nice car, by the way. Running the same setup from what I can see(Vspec, AKA, rear mudgaurds)

[barrydidntknow]

I wish I could find a set too. DE Racing needs to make a pair soon!


http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd143/barrydidntknow/DSC00386.jpg


Custom mud guards!! got a sheat of plastic from tap plastics for 8 bucks and there is enough of the sheat left to make 30 sets of these babies. no reason to buy the "brand name" save the cash.

[buggyman]

sorry if this question has been posted, but what is the advantage of running these new rear shock towers on the truggy. I would like to know if their is a big difference before I buy any. Thanks

[cdbias]

Yes there is a pretty big difference. You can carry a ton more corner speed by just moving the shock to the outside hole on the tower.

Another added bonus is the fact the V2 tower has extra camber mounting holes. If you are on a tight/technical track you can move the camber links out on the tower to make the rear end rotate more. It give the truck more of a buggy feel.

[cjetcam2]

Hi Guys' I have a newer version of the 8T2.0 with the balck brakes and the old style1.0 servo saver(rounded peak VS sharp peak) I picked up part# LOSA4441 and this looks like it has the sharp pointed V, will this work or does anyone have the correct part # for the one that will fit.

[KevinM]

Sway bar set up for small more technical tracks? What are your suggestions for set ups and sway bars?

[buggyman]

thanks for the info on the shock tower got one ordered

[losidriver]

i have the rtr 2.0 i i have replaced the throttle servo three time any idea why it would keep going out this is like half a tank in every time

[losidave8]

hi there looks some good set ups to run on astro turf. im currently running stock set up at the min ie shock positions pistons camber toe in toe out. currently using 50w shock oil front and 40w rear. would i be better goin for a lighter set up for my shocks? my home track has various different jumps some small some big.

cheers dave:D:D

[Grimlock]

i have the rtr 2.0 i i have replaced the throttle servo three time any idea why it would keep going out this is like half a tank in every time


Sounds like you have it improperly adjusted. You need to make sure it isn't over-pulling either the brakes or carb. With the air filter removed, test that the servo pull just enough to open the barrel completely. If the servo starts to strain or the servot ray begins to flex, you went to far. On the brake side, just go far enough to get some good braking. You don't want then to brake super hard.

Also make sure that the linkage is properly adjusted and nothing is binding.

Also, what servos are you using?

PS: you should have posted this is the RTR thread.

[Lapper]

The throttle servo that comes with the RTR is junk IMO (At least for an 1/8 scale vehicle). Get rid of it and use the 650 you have on the steering (Or better). Then find yourself a good steering servo you are comfortable with. I went with the JR 8711 but I don't hear many people talk about that servo. One thing I will tell you is that if you spend the money on a good servo now you won't have to buy a bunch of crappy ones later. 150 now or 300 over the course of a year. Grab a good one and save yourself the headache. Just something to consider.

[Lapper]

I threw a JR 8711 for the steering on my 8ight T 2.0 But I never hear these servos EVER being mentioned....by anybody...lol. Makes me start to second guess my decision even though I'm more than happy with the results. Does anyone know why these servos are so UNpopular? :cool: :confused: :cool:

[Grimlock]

That JR 8711 is darn expensive if you say it is $150! Why get that over a Hitec 7955 which I can pick up for $99? I haven't heard of a more reliable or better performing servo than the 7955. I know JR makes a quality product, but at that price I wouldn't bother. At my track 9 out of 10 folks run the 7955.