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Casey Peck
08-07-2009, 11:17 PM
Post any questions about the 3 time National Championship winning Buggy here

Robert "Wick" Wickham
08-11-2009, 08:42 PM
Is anyone having a problem with the radio tray braking, I am only at the steering servo, any quick fixes??

Thanks,:confused:

Kevin Gahan
08-11-2009, 09:35 PM
Make sure you are using this Steering BellCrank LOSA4406. It has a lighter spring and takes some of the presure off of the radio tray. This should help.

Todd Hodge
08-11-2009, 10:39 PM
Is anyone having a problem with the radio tray braking, I am only at the steering servo, any quick fixes??

Thanks,:confused:

Hey Robert,

Like Kevin said, pick up the new LOSA4406. It is the original servo saver with the truggy spring. It comes complete with everything. Check out the link here to see all the parts that are included with the revised LOSA4406.

LOSA4406 (http://losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA4406)

http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/LOS/250/LOSA4406-250.jpg

Robert "Wick" Wickham
08-12-2009, 06:37 AM
Thanks fo rthe help, I will pick one up.:D

losiben888
08-27-2009, 12:54 PM
Hey Robert,

Like Kevin said, pick up the new LOSA4406. It is the original servo saver with the truggy spring. It comes complete with everything. Check out the link here to see all the parts that are included with the revised LOSA4406.

LOSA4406 (http://losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA4406)

http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/LOS/250/LOSA4406-250.jpg

I did this even before I used my 2.0 for the first time...the spring that came with it just seemed overkill. I am glad I did because I have had zero issues and it works like a charm.

jared52
08-27-2009, 12:57 PM
Yeah, my RTR came with the 1.0 bellcrank and servo saver arm on it but I didn't know that when I bought a 2.0 aluminum servo saver arm that wouldn't fit. :-/

I am glad Losi is willing to make those kind of running changes but a note in the box would have been nice and I would have bought the correct part.

Robknasel
08-27-2009, 02:30 PM
Guys, I know this is a common issue and for most of us we have already found a fix. I have had several issues with the front and rear camber links stripping out, causing the camber to change positive or negative in the middle of a race. The fix I have used is the common fix that many people are doing. First off the camber tie rods are terrible. The threads are shallow and poorly machined. Put this together with the factory puting the camber links on to fast and heating up the threads the result is poor. I have used the Kyosho MP9 front camber ball end (plastic piece) with the original ball. This is for the front only. The result is a front camber link that is smoother and wont bind and more importantly wont strip in the middle of a race. For the rear I use the 1.0 link and ball complete. The 1.0 links are monsters. They are I believe the same diameter as the current 2.0 truggy. Yes they do weight more. But once again they dont strip which is more important to me. I have personally lost a race and seen many people go out of a main because of this failure. I replaced the Race Roller parts with new replacement parts with the same result, so I would not recommend that as a possible fix. To small of threads for 1/8 scale, unless it is high quality plastic and deep threads, i.e. Kyosho part.

losiben888
08-28-2009, 02:29 PM
Guys, I know this is a common issue and for most of us we have already found a fix. I have had several issues with the front and rear camber links stripping out, causing the camber to change positive or negative in the middle of a race. The fix I have used is the common fix that many people are doing. First off the camber tie rods are terrible. The threads are shallow and poorly machined. Put this together with the factory puting the camber links on to fast and heating up the threads the result is poor. I have used the Kyosho MP9 front camber ball end (plastic piece) with the original ball. This is for the front only. The result is a front camber link that is smoother and wont bind and more importantly wont strip in the middle of a race. For the rear I use the 1.0 link and ball complete. The 1.0 links are monsters. They are I believe the same diameter as the current 2.0 truggy. Yes they do weight more. But once again they dont strip which is more important to me. I have personally lost a race and seen many people go out of a main because of this failure. I replaced the Race Roller parts with new replacement parts with the same result, so I would not recommend that as a possible fix. To small of threads for 1/8 scale, unless it is high quality plastic and deep threads, i.e. Kyosho part.

I have had mine now for almost 8ight months and still hav'nt had this issue. I guess I don't crash much...;)

apache_sim
08-28-2009, 11:20 PM
I am new to racing buggies and have a question regarding setting up to race on loose dirt tracks with loads of loose stones when dry. The problem I have is when exiting the corner my buggy spins 360 deg without too much effort. What adjustments should I look at making to reduce the spin outs.

Regards
apache_sim

Losi_Racer
08-28-2009, 11:23 PM
hopefully an expert will come and key in on your question, i am learing set ups my self(if i do this what happens)

One thing i would like to say tho its TIRES TIRES TIRES. get a dry track tire, i heard losi tires work great in dry track, i run the stock tires that come with the buggy/truggy when its dry, they arent great but not bad either

BrockRacing
08-29-2009, 01:39 AM
I am new to racing buggies and have a question regarding setting up to race on loose dirt tracks with loads of loose stones when dry. The problem I have is when exiting the corner my buggy spins 360 deg without too much effort. What adjustments should I look at making to reduce the spin outs.

Regards
apache_sim

Less acceleration and a little counter turning may be the simplest fix to your problem. Tires will make or break you as well - but basic control moves may prove to be the answer for you.

Setup Changes will help as well - but I have found that by adapting to the track through basic driver controls helps tremendously as well.

Dman
08-29-2009, 04:59 AM
One thing i would like to say tho its TIRES TIRES TIRES. get a dry track tire, i heard losi tires work great in dry track, i run the stock tires that come with the buggy/truggy when its dry, they arent great but not bad either

Losi_Racer, Have you tried any other compounds?

http://www.losi.com/Content/Products/tireCompound_Chart.pdf

aws
08-29-2009, 07:33 AM
hi there even me for 14 months and racing in femca no problem at all

aws
08-29-2009, 07:39 AM
hello
this a site 4 u all 2 learn http://users.telenet.be/elvo/ .... increas the anti squite and u will have no problem

Todd Hodge
08-29-2009, 09:04 AM
I recommend looking at the tires of your local racers at the track and whose car is hooked up the most. Then try their tires. It may not even hurt to see if you can run their tires for a lap or two to see if this helps. Tires are 80% of the car.

Losi_Racer
08-29-2009, 11:54 AM
Losi_Racer, Have you tried any other compounds?

http://www.losi.com/Content/Products/tireCompound_Chart.pdf

no i have not due to both my tracks water on club races. In oct i have 2 big events at both tracks so i prob will be

apache_sim
08-30-2009, 10:37 AM
We all seem to use similar tyres...
I thought if I tilted the rear shocks a little I would reduce the drive at teh rear end.

Trevor Clement
08-30-2009, 10:08 PM
Not sure what your setup is but I would start by moving your rear hubs forward.

Hooper
08-31-2009, 11:38 AM
Hey Robert,

Like Kevin said, pick up the new LOSA4406. It is the original servo saver with the truggy spring. It comes complete with everything. Check out the link here to see all the parts that are included with the revised LOSA4406.

LOSA4406 (http://losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA4406)

http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/LOS/250/LOSA4406-250.jpg


On newer kits how would you tell if you got the updated bellcrank or not? I don't want to order the incorrect aluminum servo saver arm.

Casey Peck
08-31-2009, 01:23 PM
also try thickening the front diff and thinning the center diff. Like say 7 in the front and about 3-5 in the center

rfy
08-31-2009, 03:58 PM
What ramps come assembled on the front and rear smart diff. Thanks.

rfy
08-31-2009, 04:00 PM
correction..front and center smart diff

Todd Hodge
09-01-2009, 09:49 AM
Check out some of the new items we are coming out with for the 8IGHT/T 2.0.

What's New? (http://www.losi.com/Search/Default.aspx?IsNew=True&SortBy=LatestRelease)

onerollin1
09-01-2009, 06:39 PM
Hey Apache_sim,
Well you can start by changing you clutch setup. You can use lighter springs ie, the green and black in your clutch to help reduce some wheel spin. Your tire selection should be a medium lug or pin design. You could try the XBT Red compound LOSA7763R in the front and the Eclipse Red compound LOSA7769R in the rear or the step pin LOSA7378R all tires. Try that and see what what happens.

onerollin1
09-01-2009, 06:40 PM
Hey Todd,
When will those be available. I Likee.

Todd Hodge
09-01-2009, 11:21 PM
What ramps come assembled on the front and rear smart diff. Thanks.

120 degree ramp plates are installed in all front and center smartdiffs.

Todd Hodge
09-01-2009, 11:21 PM
Hey Todd,
When will those be available. I Likee.

Later this month.

Losi_Racer
09-01-2009, 11:54 PM
am i stupid? whats the things in 4 different colors? LOL

btw todd you have a pm

RCDriverMag
09-02-2009, 04:04 AM
They are covered wheel nuts.

RCDriverMag
09-02-2009, 04:13 AM
I did see a new center diff mount that allows the diff to be removed from the top.

B-quick
09-02-2009, 04:56 AM
I did see a new center diff mount that allows the diff to be removed from the top.

I seen it also, That is a have to have. I cant wait for the new center diff mounts and the brake disc to be released!!!!

boomgagem
09-02-2009, 07:41 AM
I'm going to buy the 2.0 Race Roller this week. What else should I buy? What parts wear the quickest? I'm new to 1/8 racing. The closest hobby shop that carries anything is about 1 hour and 45 minutes away, so I'll be online only.

Robert "Wick" Wickham
09-02-2009, 10:38 AM
I'm going to buy the 2.0 Race Roller this week. What else should I buy? What parts wear the quickest? I'm new to 1/8 racing. The closest hobby shop that carries anything is about 1 hour and 45 minutes away, so I'll be online only.
I would purchase the some extra shock shafts they do bend for time to time, and if you are going to race a lot i would get a couple if the hop up parts. get the aluminum hinge pin braces front and rear, the rear hub carriers and the two piece motor mount. other then that I would get and extra front center drive shaft they ware out.:D

boomgagem
09-02-2009, 11:30 AM
Thanks Wick, I will be racing it, just club level though for now.

Robert "Wick" Wickham
09-02-2009, 12:47 PM
Any time no worries.:D

Losi_Racer
09-02-2009, 01:53 PM
I did see a new center diff mount that allows the diff to be removed from the top.

i was going to get this, but for 70 bucks, little pricy

Robert "Wick" Wickham
09-02-2009, 02:22 PM
You don't need it yet!!!

Neobart
09-02-2009, 02:32 PM
I could really use that center mount. I switch between 7 and 10k in the center all the time.

Robert "Wick" Wickham
09-02-2009, 02:50 PM
Just buy another diff, keep one with 7k and one with 10k and swap them out. it only eight screws.

Neobart
09-02-2009, 10:22 PM
That's what I'm saying. I have a spare diff, spare everything since I bought a 8-t for spares. I'm just looking forward to changing diffs without having to fiddle with those brake cams. They can be a pain to get in when your under time constrain. :)

Robert "Wick" Wickham
09-03-2009, 08:04 AM
I totally understand

Big Puddin
09-03-2009, 10:18 AM
I already put one on order. :)

Rally Stylz
09-03-2009, 06:21 PM
Has anyone had anyproblems with the shock shafts pulling out of the shock ends?

I just took my new car out for it's first run and within 2 laps the shaft had striped out of the shock end!!!!

I had one small crash and roll over a small 3 pack.

I really hope this was a dude otherwise I can't see myself finishing a 5min qualifier let alone a 60min main

Jr. Woodchuck
09-03-2009, 06:24 PM
Guys, I know this is a common issue and for most of us we have already found a fix. I have had several issues with the front and rear camber links stripping out, causing the camber to change positive or negative in the middle of a race.

I was having the same problem, Horizon, to there credit, sent me new camber links. But the same issue was there. I ended up going with the Lundsford links and the problem is fixed.

Jr. Woodchuck
09-03-2009, 06:26 PM
Has anyone had anyproblems with the shock shafts pulling out of the shock ends?

I just took my new car out for it's first run and within 2 laps the shaft had striped out of the shock end!!!!

I had one small crash and roll over a small 3 pack.

I really hope this was a dude otherwise I can't see myself finishing a 5min qualifier let alone a 60min main

mine were this way in the box when i opened it up,,,, new!!!! I just put on new shock ends and have had zero issues.

cdbias
09-03-2009, 08:20 PM
The rod ends seemed to have been put on a little fast during assembly. If you take them apart you can see where the plastic is melted to the threads. As mentioned above Losi is VERY KIND when it comes to thing's like this and they will send you new ends.

I have also heard that a "running change" has been made to the camber link ends. Not sure though. I ordered my spares along time ago and haven't had any issues with this problem.

Dishsoap
09-05-2009, 11:51 PM
Hey Robert,

Like Kevin said, pick up the new LOSA4406. It is the original servo saver with the truggy spring. It comes complete with everything. Check out the link here to see all the parts that are included with the revised LOSA4406.

LOSA4406 (http://losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA4406)

http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/LOS/250/LOSA4406-250.jpg

I recently switched over to this set up. The manual says to back it off 2 1/2 times from the in position. I backed it of 3 1/2 times and it still seems really tight. Is there a manual test you can do to ensure proper set up.

Angelo D
09-06-2009, 10:58 AM
yes the orginal stuff def fixes ur problems

cdbias
09-06-2009, 12:34 PM
I posted on Thursday that I hadn't had any camber link issues. lol. Cursed myself. I've been running the 2.0 since the first batch that came out and yesterday was the first time they started to lose adjustment.

Does anyone know if they new links have been updated or are you just running the Lunsford stuff or maybe the original stuff from the 1.0?

Jr. Woodchuck
09-06-2009, 02:26 PM
I posted on Thursday that I hadn't had any camber link issues. lol. Cursed myself. I've been running the 2.0 since the first batch that came out and yesterday was the first time they started to lose adjustment.

Does anyone know if they new links have been updated or are you just running the Lunsford stuff or maybe the original stuff from the 1.0?

Lundsford....
2..4x70
4..4x65

cdbias
09-07-2009, 01:21 PM
Thanks Jr. Woodchuck!

neondreamz8
09-08-2009, 08:25 AM
i got a sweet new tip not for speed but for cleanin that we all hate.... this works best for nitro.... Eagle one makes this new wheel keep clean, spray it on your car let is sit for 30 min before driving and the dirt, grime, and nitro fuel dont stick.... to clean hit with air or just a light spray of water and its like new, the best part it last for like a month before you have to do it again

trevor burright
09-08-2009, 07:02 PM
ive been using the 1.0 camber links and no problems

Big Puddin
09-09-2009, 10:09 AM
(Knock on wood) But I have not had a issue out of mine and I have about 5 gallons on my car now and I have not had that issue and have not had to replace a part on the car yet.

Robert "Wick" Wickham
09-10-2009, 10:09 AM
Thats why we all run Losi, execellent products!!:D

Nimic
09-10-2009, 02:33 PM
I recently picked up a setup station, and there is a setting called "Down Stops." On the 30mm blocks my station came up with, and with the wheels removed the knuckles (if that's what they are called) of the A-Arms hit the setup board. This would lead me to believe that they are set far too low... Is this setting appropriate for an 8ightb? If so, what should it be set to? I don't see it on the setup sheets...

Tyler mcwilliams
09-10-2009, 03:01 PM
hey i have a problem with my diffs front and rear it sounds that there are stripped can diff oli change that nosie can someone help..

Big Puddin
09-10-2009, 10:12 PM
Have u checked the play between the diff and the pinion? If they are not shimmed right it will make A noise like they r stripped.

Tyler mcwilliams
09-11-2009, 03:10 PM
ya the play is fine its seams that the pinion may be stripped also i looked and there is no grease in here and the gearbox is all dry and dirty any clue

flaviohdr
09-11-2009, 04:56 PM
I bought a 8ight 2.0 race roller and i want to upgrade this.
What optionals are good to put my car lighter and stronger?

flaviohdr
09-11-2009, 05:19 PM
Why i get my new 8ight 2.0 lighter and stronger?

Don Vinkemulder
09-11-2009, 08:31 PM
ya the play is fine its seams that the pinion may be stripped also i looked and there is no grease in here and the gearbox is all dry and dirty any clue

If the pinion is stripped, you will have to replace both ring and pinion gears. Assemble the diff in the case and check the back lash. Shim as necessary. Then when satisfied, use grease on the gears, and all around the case halves. This will seal the dirt from getting inside.

Big Puddin
09-12-2009, 07:49 AM
Why i get my new 8ight 2.0 lighter and stronger?




losa1754- Adjustable front hinge pins
losa1755- adjustable rear hinge pins
losa3553- front/rear hd lightened outdrives
losa3554- center hd lightened outdrives
losa3556- lightweight center diff


stronger and lighter options.

Neobart
09-12-2009, 11:45 AM
The adjustable hinge pin braces are actually a little heavier than std.

keyesgood
09-12-2009, 09:49 PM
Can any of the losi reps ,

conform that part losa 4406 is just the 1.0 plastics or has it been upgraded with all the alum bits and the truck servo saver spring


because the ones im looking at are only the plastics



thanks

mk,

o.z

Robert "Wick" Wickham
09-13-2009, 05:16 AM
LOSA4406 is the new bellcrank, it was a rolling change. They made this change to have less pressure on the servos and radio tray. I had a problem with my radio tray braking at the front servo, put the new rolling change bellcrank on and no problems now.:D

flaviohdr
09-13-2009, 04:16 PM
Thank You my friend

onerollin1
09-13-2009, 07:33 PM
Rally Stylz,
Some race roller shock ends were overtightened during assembly. You can pruchase LOSA5435 and reassemble. Be careful not to overtighten. A good benchmark is to screw them just past the threads. Hope this helps.

davebeef1
09-15-2009, 06:59 AM
LOSA4406 is the new bellcrank, it was a rolling change. They made this change to have less pressure on the servos and radio tray. I had a problem with my radio tray braking at the front servo, put the new rolling change bellcrank on and no problems now.:D

I have an early UK 8ight 2.0 buggy and have also broken the radio tray at the steering servo.

Are you saying the part has been modified and i should get a new LOSA4406 bellcrank?

Robert "Wick" Wickham
09-15-2009, 07:28 AM
I have an early UK 8ight 2.0 buggy and have also broken the radio tray at the steering servo.

Are you saying the part has been modified and i should get a new LOSA4406 bellcrank?

Yes it will fix the problem. Have not had any issue since I put the new one on. You will see the differance once you get it.:D

ChrisL
09-15-2009, 04:23 PM
Hi guys,

What shock pistons come in the kit? Based on the EVPL, both front and rear have P/N A5440 which doesn't seem to equate to 54fr and a 56rr.

How do I know if my new kit has incorporated the rolling change in the servo saver to LOSA4406?

Thanks

cdbias
09-17-2009, 06:03 AM
Your car should have 54 pistons in the front and 56 pistons in the rear. You can take your shock caps off and check the top of the pistons to make sure. The number will be stamped on them.

Not sure about the steering assembly though. My original is still in good shape!:)

trgyrcr
09-21-2009, 07:16 PM
Looking for a suggestion to get rid of some of the on power push. running stock set up except for front camber links in the "A" a position. It has tons of off power steering and I think I could sacrafice a little of that. Tried different tires with some success but think a set up tweak may be whats needed. Also back end can get squirley on hard straight-line acceleration. Can usually get rid of most of it with a rear tire change. Track is hard sandy base that breaks up to loam on top and watered.
Thanks

Neobart
09-22-2009, 02:20 AM
Maybe try lighter center diff oil. I race on some slick surfaces and run 5/3/2 in my buggy.

Dishsoap
09-22-2009, 02:32 AM
FYI

I have been having problems with the front bust mostly the rear shock tower screws coming loose and stripping. I decided to install longer screws with 5-40 nuts for more durability.

If you decide to do this be careful not to over tighten. I could not figure out for the life of me why I was getting a grinding/notching noise in the rear diff. I pulled it apart 3 times cause I thought it could be the mesh.

All it was is that the diff case was on to tight and it compressed everything together causing this.

XXX8ight
09-24-2009, 07:46 AM
I am new to racing buggies and have a question regarding setting up to race on loose dirt tracks with loads of loose stones when dry. The problem I have is when exiting the corner my buggy spins 360 deg without too much effort. What adjustments should I look at making to reduce the spin outs.

Regards
apache_sim

Throttle Control :p Change your diff oils and try new tires.

rfy
09-25-2009, 04:11 PM
Hi,

I have gone back to the original 8ight bellcrank plastics..would you still suggest I purchase the 4406? Is there any difference handling wise?

trevor burright
09-25-2009, 04:46 PM
what do u guys think of the new reedy 121vr .21 motor

rckent
10-05-2009, 05:03 AM
hi all,

i was wondering you guys are facing the same problem that we do, we are living in malaysia and there are about 6 of us using losi 8ight 2.0 buggy(losa0804) in our town. Our common problem is the 4mm plastic rod end is often strip during each practice and affect the buggy camber setting. Therefore, we always have to replace them(losa6046) each practice.

But until recently, one of our new bashing buddy here purchase a brand new losi 8ight 2.0 from our local hobby shop. And he doesn't seem to have this problem. I then check the camber link from his buggy and i found the camber link thread are significant deeper then our losi 8 2.0 which purchase earlier. Then i go to our local hobby shop guy and found our that the losi buggy stock just came in have a gold "Roar nation champion" sticker on the box. And they thread on it's camber link are also deeper then the buggy that we previously bought. So i suspect it must be the new batch of the losi buggy which are free from the camber link problem.

So i was wondering whether losi will replace the camber links for us?

thanks

Kenneth

Rally Stylz
10-06-2009, 03:31 PM
Kennth try emailing them and see.
I am running the new batch and have not had a problem.

Robert "Wick" Wickham
10-07-2009, 07:21 AM
hi all,

i was wondering you guys are facing the same problem that we do, we are living in malaysia and there are about 6 of us using losi 8ight 2.0 buggy(losa0804) in our town. Our common problem is the 4mm plastic rod end is often strip during each practice and affect the buggy camber setting. Therefore, we always have to replace them(losa6046) each practice.

But until recently, one of our new bashing buddy here purchase a brand new losi 8ight 2.0 from our local hobby shop. And he doesn't seem to have this problem. I then check the camber link from his buggy and i found the camber link thread are significant deeper then our losi 8 2.0 which purchase earlier. Then i go to our local hobby shop guy and found our that the losi buggy stock just came in have a gold "Roar nation champion" sticker on the box. And they thread on it's camber link are also deeper then the buggy that we previously bought. So i suspect it must be the new batch of the losi buggy which are free from the camber link problem.

So i was wondering whether losi will replace the camber links for us?

thanks

Kenneth

Contact Losi service department and they will replace them, The problem is the pepole in the warehouse might not pull the newest one So it might take a couple times, If you don't want do go throught that, you can purchase the lundfords ones. Thats what i use they are lighter and don't strip out. Hope this helps.

segmentfault
10-12-2009, 12:43 PM
LOSA4406 is the new bellcrank, it was a rolling change. They made this change to have less pressure on the servos and radio tray. I had a problem with my radio tray braking at the front servo, put the new rolling change bellcrank on and no problems now.:D

How can I tell if i have the new LOSA4406 bellcrank or the old bellcrank? I purchased my 8E 2.0 about 2 weeks ago and since have broken the radio tray at the front servo in the same place you describe.

Robert "Wick" Wickham
10-12-2009, 01:05 PM
Here are some pictures, First one is the new bellcrank second one is the old one.
417

418

the new one has less of a "V" shape. look closely at where they join.

Hope this helps.

segmentfault
10-12-2009, 01:08 PM
the new one has less of a "V" shape.

Hope this helps.

Thank you so much for your prompt reply Robert.

Do you know if these bellcranks will work in the 8-E 2.0?

Robert "Wick" Wickham
10-12-2009, 01:11 PM
Yes it will, it should fix the problem. make sure when you screw the spring hold(blue piece) that it is about 2mm up from the bottom piece and you will be dialed!!!

trgyrcr
10-23-2009, 08:19 PM
hello
this a site 4 u all 2 learn http://users.telenet.be/elvo/ .... increas the anti squite and u will have no problem

Does anyone know where to get a printable copy of this, thanks

black
10-29-2009, 03:24 AM
Hello,
can anyone please post US sizes of Hex Wrenches and Nut Drivers needed for Losi 8ight 2.0 buggy?

TYVM

RacerScott
10-29-2009, 06:11 AM
.050, 1/16, 5/64, 3/32 drivers. 1/4in. nut driver are the primary tools. I dont know the size for the shock stand off.

kjolly
11-04-2009, 06:34 PM
can anyone tell what updates have been done for the 2.0 B and T. mine are about 10 months old.

Thanks Ken

C J
11-05-2009, 04:35 AM
I herd there may be an update to the Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace Inserts but cant find any info here

Robert "Wick" Wickham
11-05-2009, 07:27 AM
Its a rolling change, here are some pictures with the part numbers. Hope this is what you are looking for. The front part# is LOSA1754 and the rear is LOSA1755.:D


474

475

kjolly
11-05-2009, 10:51 AM
do you have to pay full price for the updated parts, or will they replace the parts.

Robert "Wick" Wickham
11-06-2009, 08:00 AM
If its a part failure I am sure they will replace it, but if you just bought them and got the old ones you would have to return them and request the new one from where you bought them.

LVBaja
11-06-2009, 08:25 AM
Its a rolling change, here are some pictures with the part numbers. Hope this is what you are looking for. The front part# is LOSA1754 and the rear is LOSA1755.:D


474

475

That's a great change! One of the main reasons I don't run the adjustable hinge pin braces in the front of my buggy is because the hinge pins poke out through the plastic inserts. This can't happen with the new design. Time to get myself a new set!

C J
11-08-2009, 06:59 AM
Its a rolling change, here are some pictures with the part numbers. Hope this is what you are looking for. The front part# is LOSA1754 and the rear is LOSA1755.:D


474

475

yes thanks i herd there was some sort of change thats a great update

Officespace
11-10-2009, 02:18 PM
Can anyone give me some decent advice on the best set-up for the front adjustable hinge pins to get more steering from the buggy on shorter, smooth blue-groove tracks (29-30 second lap times). I've been told several conflicting ways and inserts to run by local racers and would like to know what everyone's opinon of the best inserts to use.

Show871
11-16-2009, 06:15 PM
Looking at a few used 2.0 rollers. besides bearings, and driveshafts....is there alot that could be worn out on a season old roller? Are the diffs and other stuff pretty indestructable? Just trying to avoid a roach coach! Thanks 871

Robert "Wick" Wickham
11-17-2009, 08:48 AM
Can anyone give me some decent advice on the best set-up for the front adjustable hinge pins to get more steering from the buggy on shorter, smooth blue-groove tracks (29-30 second lap times). I've been told several conflicting ways and inserts to run by local racers and would like to know what everyone's opinon of the best inserts to use.

you should run 0 and 0 in the front and 0 and 1's out in the rear. Hope this helps.:D

Briguy
11-19-2009, 08:56 AM
Anyone know if the 2.0 body will fit the 1.0 buggy ? I know the 2.0 ia a bit longer but never checked if it will fit when I had the 2.0 .

LVBaja
11-19-2009, 10:47 AM
Yeah, it fits fine. I tried it on my 1.0 when I got my 2.0.

losi8ight832
11-27-2009, 03:35 PM
what is the shock mod that needs to be done to buggy?

Robert "Wick" Wickham
11-30-2009, 02:10 PM
what is the shock mod that needs to be done to buggy?

Go to the shock mod post.

Sin(theta)
12-14-2009, 03:01 PM
I went into my LHS today and wanted to buy a losi 8ight 2.0b, they told me to hold off buying because there is a newer version coming out. Is there? If so when? thanks

keyesgood
12-15-2009, 04:07 AM
theres no new buggy , for 2010


drake as allready said ,




mk,

dave henry
12-19-2009, 08:01 PM
what is the shock mod that needs to be done to buggy?

it definately does not need to be done, but it can yeild more consistent ride heights when going from a pit space that is a very different temperature to the track itself (ie air conditioned pitts to a hot track) and some other small improvements in general handling

sweber76
12-21-2009, 04:43 PM
I saw that Losi is testing some new camber link plastic ends for the 2.0 buggy. Will this fix the problem of the camber links pushing in or pull off? Or is there a new camber link that needs to be used along with the new ends? I also see people posting about calling in for replacements on the 2.0 camber links. But when I called nobody seemed to know anything about a problem. Both of my 2.0 buggies are doing the same thing :mad:. I fixed it for now with the 1.0 camber links but loose some of the adjustments.

Robert "Wick" Wickham
12-22-2009, 09:14 AM
I saw that Losi is testing some new camber link plastic ends for the 2.0 buggy. Will this fix the problem of the camber links pushing in or pull off? Or is there a new camber link that needs to be used along with the new ends? I also see people posting about calling in for replacements on the 2.0 camber links. But when I called nobody seemed to know anything about a problem. Both of my 2.0 buggies are doing the same thing :mad:. I fixed it for now with the 1.0 camber links but loose some of the adjustments.

Purchase the Lunsford set and that will end your problem.:D

Don Vinkemulder
12-22-2009, 11:25 PM
Looking at a few used 2.0 rollers. besides bearings, and driveshafts....is there alot that could be worn out on a season old roller? Are the diffs and other stuff pretty indestructable? Just trying to avoid a roach coach! Thanks 871

As long as the car was decently maintained, then most of the main parts should be good. Outdrives and CVD's need to be closely inspected and replaced as needed. Maybe some fresh suspension arms and camber link ends.

Don Vinkemulder
12-22-2009, 11:33 PM
Can anyone give me some decent advice on the best set-up for the front adjustable hinge pins to get more steering from the buggy on shorter, smooth blue-groove tracks (29-30 second lap times). I've been told several conflicting ways and inserts to run by local racers and would like to know what everyone's opinon of the best inserts to use.

There's a couple ways to go on these. You could reduce the front kick-up by using .5 down in front and .5 up in rear. Or .5 or 1 down on both ends to lower front roll center. Experiment with the settings is the only way to know for individual driving style and track surface/conditions. Just remember to correct your droop settings after any of these settings.

Have you tried different droop settings. Sometimes in bluegroove situations you may want to decrease droop all the way around. Anyways all these adjustments are easy to do, so can run them back to back during practice sessions one at a time.

Chris_RC
12-25-2009, 05:35 PM
Can somebody clarify if you can take the 5cc tank insert out and still be legal? I raced last season but never ran good enough to tech, so it was never checked without the insert in.

LVBaja
12-25-2009, 05:37 PM
You will still be legal unless you have unusually long fuel line between your tank and carb. I raced the entire season and got teched at every race and it was always under 150cc.

Chris_RC
12-25-2009, 09:56 PM
You will still be legal unless you have unusually long fuel line between your tank and carb. I raced the entire season and got teched at every race and it was always under 150cc.

You mean 125cc right?

Robert "Wick" Wickham
12-28-2009, 08:01 AM
You mean 125cc right?

If you take the tank plug out you will be at 122 to 123cc, I never run mine and we race the JBRL and he dose tech before and after your race.

LVBaja
12-28-2009, 06:04 PM
Yes, I meant 125cc for buggy and 150cc for truggy. Sorry, I had truggy on the mind when I wrote that. Both my buggy and truggy have the inserts removed from the tanks and they were teched over and over throughout the entire season without any issues.

Chris_RC
12-28-2009, 11:11 PM
How do the +2mm hubs handle compared to the stockers? Also, is there any cure besides Lunsford turnbuckles and 1.0 links (which IMO are no better) to the 2.0 camber links pulling off? I got the newest kit with the updated brakes and servo saver, but I still have the short rear innter camber screw. I was told a drop of Gorilla glue onto the threads?

Bazza
01-07-2010, 01:39 PM
Does anyone know how much rebound, if any is set from factory on these shocks?

Robert "Wick" Wickham
01-08-2010, 09:01 AM
Does anyone know how much rebound, if any is set from factory on these shocks?

Full rebound!!

Bazza
01-08-2010, 09:39 AM
Full rebound!!

Lovely thanks mate, not run it yet but wondered.

Thanks again, Bazza :)

Token
02-01-2010, 09:19 AM
How do the +2mm hubs handle compared to the stockers? Also, is there any cure besides Lunsford turnbuckles and 1.0 links (which IMO are no better) to the 2.0 camber links pulling off? I got the newest kit with the updated brakes and servo saver, but I still have the short rear innter camber screw. I was told a drop of Gorilla glue onto the threads?

The problem is that you cant get the nylon nut on there to keep it in place. Get 1 inch screws and you'ill be fine.... I would never ever ever put Gorilla glue on my rc - blue locktie works just good enough for me.

Grimlock
02-10-2010, 03:58 PM
Just picked mine up. I am still waiting on my Clockwork Racing modified JLR .21 engine from Canada and my Fastlane Graphix body wraps.

My build:
Race Roller
Steel Flywheel (recommended by Clockwork for this engine with the buggy due to traction)
Aluminum Servo Saver Arm
Hitec 7955tg servos x2
Clockwork Racing JLR .21 Engine and pipe
Spektrum DX3s radio and SR3300 receiver
Losi Lipo battery
Losi Starter Box with 2200mah 4c Lipo
AKA City Block Tires
Proline Crime Fighter Tires

Enjoy!

Pictures (some with my 85lb puppy for scale):

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n317/bbechtold/2010-02-10/IMG_0860.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n317/bbechtold/2010-02-10/IMG_0865.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n317/bbechtold/2010-02-10/IMG_0866.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n317/bbechtold/2010-02-10/IMG_0867-1.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n317/bbechtold/2010-02-10/IMG_0861.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n317/bbechtold/2010-02-10/IMG_0859.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n317/bbechtold/2010-02-10/IMG_0851.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n317/bbechtold/2010-02-10/IMG_0852-1.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n317/bbechtold/2010-02-10/IMG_0853.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n317/bbechtold/2010-02-10/IMG_0856.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n317/bbechtold/2010-02-10/IMG_0854.jpg

su3zero
02-10-2010, 04:18 PM
LOL... makes me feel cold....
18 days to get mine... time are runing slow

Grimlock
02-10-2010, 04:33 PM
LOL... makes me feel cold....
18 days to get mine... time are runing slow


The good news is it is probably much hotter down there right now!

I ordered mine and got it the next day here in California. Losi is wicked fast with delivery around here. :)

Harbison85
02-12-2010, 03:13 PM
Hey quick question on the 2.0 Buggy, do i need the alluminum servo saver to race?

Grimlock
02-12-2010, 03:52 PM
From everyone I talk to, yes it is required.

Todd Hodge
02-12-2010, 10:03 PM
Hey quick question on the 2.0 Buggy, do i need the alluminum servo saver to race?

Is it a must have? NO. Will you eventually want to get one once you have put a few gallons through your car? YES.

Grimlock
02-13-2010, 05:26 PM
Got my two bodies done. One is wrapped, and the other got a quick paint job for practice.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n317/bbechtold/2010-02-12/IMG_0872.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n317/bbechtold/2010-02-12/IMG_0871.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n317/bbechtold/2010-02-12/IMG_0870.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n317/bbechtold/2010-02-12/IMG_0903.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n317/bbechtold/2010-02-12/IMG_0902.jpg

Vallee25
02-14-2010, 07:12 PM
I have a couple of questions on the Losi 8ight-B 2.0 (LOSA0804) Does this come pre-assembled? and where do you find a list of what the kit includes i.e: Adjustable Front & Hinge Pin Brace w/Inserts, Center HD Lightened Differential Outdrives, Front/Rear HD Lightened Outdrive, Aluminum Front Spindles & Carriers, Split Center Diff Mount alum. and etc. I would like to know what I would need to purchase besides the kit, except the basic i.e servos, transmitter, engine for racing. I live in the middle of no where and the nearest hobbie shop is 5 hours away and they only specialize in 1/10 trucks. So all my shopping is done online and would like to get everything needed in one purchase. Thanks

Grimlock
02-14-2010, 07:21 PM
It comes as a "Racer Roller" meaning it is a pre-assembled rolling chassis. All you need to run it are the engine, exhaust, and electronics. Every one of the specific parts you listed are upgrades you would need to buy separately (Adjustable Front & Hinge Pin Brace w/Inserts, Center HD Lightened Differential Outdrives, Front/Rear HD Lightened Outdrive, Aluminum Front Spindles & Carriers, Split Center Diff Mount alum. and etc.)

Here is the parts list: http://losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/LOSA0804_PartsExplosion.pdf

griz066
02-15-2010, 12:51 AM
Post any questions about the 3 time National Championship winning Buggy here

Hi Casey, I am in Australia and new to the sport, just bought a Losi 8ight 2.0 with the 350 engine. I want to fit a roto start to it as the bump box is cumbersome and charging the battery's is another chore.
I have a good quality cordless drill that I assume will be ok to do the starting, I just need the long starter bit to go in the drill.

My question is could you please tell all me the specific parts and part numbers of the bits I will need to make the conversion.

Cheers Todd

Vallee25
02-15-2010, 05:03 PM
Grimlock, Thanks for the info!

Jeff-

Token
02-16-2010, 07:40 AM
Hi Casey, I am in Australia and new to the sport, just bought a Losi 8ight 2.0 with the 350 engine. I want to fit a roto start to it as the bump box is cumbersome and charging the battery's is another chore.
I have a good quality cordless drill that I assume will be ok to do the starting, I just need the long starter bit to go in the drill.

My question is could you please tell all me the specific parts and part numbers of the bits I will need to make the conversion.

Cheers Todd
Im buttin in here, but I dont think that there is a roto start that would fit it. Plus roto starts cause way to many problems. Air leaks, one way bearings ect, I would suggest buying a lipo battrey for starter boxes. I get 2 days of use on one charge.... Starter boxes are the way to go..... Just MO

1fastdude
02-16-2010, 08:27 AM
Go to the shock mod post.

Where is the "shock mod" post? :confused:

Grimlock
02-16-2010, 09:13 AM
Where is the "shock mod" post? :confused:

You can see it here: http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/303832-losi-2-0-shock-mod.html

Toughtrax
02-18-2010, 12:10 PM
Just wanted to post a quick pic of my new 2010 ride, Got some work to do still but I can almost smell the nitro now.

Grimlock
02-18-2010, 12:16 PM
Just wanted to post a quick pic of my new 2010 ride, Got some work to do still but I can almost smell the nitro now.

Quit showin' off, I just saw it on RC Tech. :p

Toughtrax
02-18-2010, 12:56 PM
LOL at Grim, I have to show it off, I was a big (unspoken brand around these parts) guy for a long time now and decided it was time for me to return home

Not sure why I ever stopped using Losi's but glad to be back that's for sure.

Grimlock
02-18-2010, 05:17 PM
I was kidding, I think I posted pictures in both threads on Saturday. :p

1fastdude
02-19-2010, 04:11 AM
I would like to get some input please. I hear that the buggy is hard on servo's? What would the recommendation be for steering and throttle servo's? :confused:

Grimlock
02-19-2010, 10:05 AM
I don't think buggy is any more hard on servos than any other 1/8 scale off road vehicle. It is probably the punishing since it has smaller tires. I use two Hitec 7955tg servos.

Batman
02-22-2010, 10:22 AM
Anyone have a good trick for popping off the ball links on the shock and sway bar connections? These are alot tighter and burlyer than the 10th scale stuff I'm used too. Thanks.

Grimlock
02-22-2010, 11:05 AM
I just push them out. They are more annoying to get back in and properly aligned. I will often use a hex wrench in the hole to line things up. Tighter is better since it helps with slop.

Losi_Racer
02-22-2010, 12:08 PM
Im buttin in here, but I dont think that there is a roto start that would fit it. Plus roto starts cause way to many problems. Air leaks, one way bearings ect, I would suggest buying a lipo battrey for starter boxes. I get 2 days of use on one charge.... Starter boxes are the way to go..... Just MO

just adding my .02 cents here, me and my pops raced the nitro challenge at the nitro pit this last weekend, we charged it tuesday night, i ran two classes so did he, and i plugged it in to check the voltage on sunday and it was at 3.90 per cell. lipo is the way to go

macro junkie
02-28-2010, 12:24 AM
just adding my .02 cents here, me and my pops raced the nitro challenge at the nitro pit this last weekend, we charged it tuesday night, i ran two classes so did he, and i plugged it in to check the voltage on sunday and it was at 3.90 per cell. lipo is the way to go

i got a SMD starter box.Powered by twin 7.2v stick packs or what im using is 7a 12v battery.this lasted me days and days.i didnt charge it for 1 week.im not sure how long it would last at race meetings as i havent started racing yet but im very impressed by the starter box..

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii245/macrojunkie/IMG_7869g.jpg

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii245/macrojunkie/IMG_7871g.jpg

Neobart
02-28-2010, 07:50 AM
If you don't have tuning issues, you won't use your starter box that much during a race day.

macro junkie
03-22-2010, 01:32 PM
my current summer 2010 set up.Thanks to adam drake for all his guidance and info on various sights and utube.

i set up what adam said 40 front 25 back for a starting point and stock camber.It raced perfect on grass and dirt but son as i got it on carpet astroturf the thing was so easy to rol and tip over.so i set 25 on front and 25 on back.sat camber to -5 :eek: and this seemed to be alot better.

is any you familiar with carpet astroturf?if so what settings do u use,shock oil and tyres?

im using this track for now

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/4451189489_664c416ba1_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4454553241_c0de8b8300_o.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4058/4454599213_7fed1b1fbf_o.jpg

macro junkie
03-22-2010, 02:21 PM
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/4455512810_5924f9ffda_o.jpg

su3zero
03-23-2010, 06:42 AM
nice picture...

next weekend i'll be my first race on 1/8 and first wiht 8ight.

first runing (pratice)

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c143/su3_zero/my%20losi/IMG_0220.jpg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c143/su3_zero/my%20losi/IMG_0264.jpg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c143/su3_zero/my%20losi/IMG_0292.jpg

macro junkie
03-23-2010, 05:26 PM
love what you have done with black spoiler..black wheels and black and orange shell..great colour scheme.somthing i might copy ;)

Grimlock
03-23-2010, 05:57 PM
love what you have done with black spoiler..black wheels and black and orange shell..great colour scheme.somthing i might copy ;)

IF he had black or orange rims it would really stand out! Also maybe some pin stripes/shading between the flames and rest of the body. Yeah I am totally nit-picking. :p

macro junkie
03-25-2010, 12:28 AM
IF he had black or orange rims it would really stand out! Also maybe some pin stripes/shading between the flames and rest of the body. Yeah I am totally nit-picking. :p

u could take the wheels off and spray the rims.but yer..your being picky :D

Grimlock
03-25-2010, 09:50 AM
u could take the wheels off and spray the rims.but yer..your being picky :D

Actually you would probably want to use Rit Dye. Otherwise the paint would come off fast. That is why I designed my paint schemes around yellow rims. If I match the color of a standard rim, then I don't have to worry about dying them to look good. :D

1fastdude
03-29-2010, 04:38 AM
Need some advice:

I have the Losi 8ight 2.0 buggy with a Dynamite XP .21 and running indoors. I can't seem to get enough clutch to jump like others. What would be the most aggresive clutch? I am running the aluminum flywheel.

4 alum shoes with gold springs or
4 carbon shoes with gold springs??? :confused:

chadmillikan
03-29-2010, 07:54 AM
What would be the most aggresive clutch? I am running the aluminum flywheel.

Here is a ling from the 8ight 2.0 manual with all the different clutch setups.

http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/8ight2Manual.pdf

1fastdude
03-29-2010, 09:11 AM
Thank you, I never noticed it in the manual..........duh

Another question would be:
How to break-in a new clutch? I here different senario's.

stanton
03-29-2010, 02:15 PM
Thank you, I never noticed it in the manual..........duh

Another question would be:
How to break-in a new clutch? I here different senario's.

Allways dremell your clutch bell will a coarse drum sander and then clean it with simple green. make sure to get all black marks off and if the springs have dug a groove, you should replace the bell. Also, the high endurance bells grab better than the standard bells.

Use the dremell on the blue shoes too. Just enough to take the blue anodizing off then bevel all edges. Use an exacto to bevel all edges of the carbon shoes. Clean everything with simple green and blow dry. I use gold springs on alum and green on carbon. All LOSI.

Bearing should be cleaned out and spun w/compressed air. I leave the bearing in the clutch bell and spin the bell. Much easier than spinning the bearing on a chop stick or bearing blaster. After the bearings are clean put one drop of light oil and spin again. Wipe everything down with simple green.

Your clutch will only take a couple of laps to break in.

FYI-I run my Dynamite XP's indoor with the LOSI RE10 pipe and love it.

Hope this helps.

chadmillikan
03-29-2010, 04:44 PM
I have heard a lot of top drivers say to just Hold the car down on the ground the to go about 75% on the throttle for maybee ten fifteen seconds

Grimlock
03-29-2010, 05:35 PM
Yep, that's what I do.

Trevor Clement
03-30-2010, 12:48 PM
I'm not sure what clutch setup you're running but if you want more snap start with a 2 alum (silver) / 2 carbon (gold) setup with the standard clutch bell. The high endurance bell actually slips more than the standard. You shouldn't really need anything more aggressive than that.

As for break-in, hold the car down firm and give it about 75% throttle for only 3-4 seconds. Repeat this process 2-3 times and you're good to go.

macro junkie
03-31-2010, 12:10 PM
how can i change the tubing out of the fuel tank as i was reading its not race legal the way i have it from stock?u got to put that nipple thing in the tank and connect it that way ect?

can someone tell me how to do it..maybe a pic or somthing?as i want to add more tubing to the fule line and its currently to short.i also want it race legal

Grimlock
03-31-2010, 12:33 PM
Check your local track. At my track the stock fuel line setup is totally legal. Of course I am not racing on a national level, and I never will.

macro junkie
04-01-2010, 01:30 AM
Check your local track. At my track the stock fuel line setup is totally legal. Of course I am not racing on a national level, and I never will.

how do i exstend the fule line?i cant figer it out?

also what do u use to spray your shells?

Grimlock
04-01-2010, 10:53 AM
Not sure about the fuel line, I haven't had to swap mine out yet. I seem to remember it is in the manual though.

As for spray, I assume you mean paint. I use Tamiya "rattle can" paints.

frankhodits
04-06-2010, 03:49 PM
Need some advice:

I have the Losi 8ight 2.0 buggy with a Dynamite XP .21 and running indoors. I can't seem to get enough clutch to jump like others. What would be the most aggresive clutch? I am running the aluminum flywheel.

4 alum shoes with gold springs or
4 carbon shoes with gold springs??? :confused:

Try leaning your low speed one hour. If everyone else is jumping no problem and you can't your most likely to fat on the bottom...4 alum. with gold would hit harder than 4 carbon with gold, although, that is way to much clutch and you should never need that much...

macro junkie
04-09-2010, 11:49 AM
tuning guild for losi 8 2.0 pdf file http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/8IGHT_Tuning_Guide.pdf

Vicdeth
04-10-2010, 03:47 PM
Im having a problem with my CVD's... They all have a slight wobble, Center & F/R.
I went and bought some aftermarket CVD's and thes are worse, Im bidding on Center new ones on Ebay to see if that will fix it...
Do they all have a wobble? Am I just being to picky or what...
Thanks for any info, this is driving me nuts, I would think this is something that should be true, not wobble even a little, ty guys

Robert "Wick" Wickham
04-12-2010, 07:52 AM
Im having a problem with my CVD's... They all have a slight wobble, Center & F/R.
I went and bought some aftermarket CVD's and thes are worse, Im bidding on Center new ones on Ebay to see if that will fix it...
Do they all have a wobble? Am I just being to picky or what...
Thanks for any info, this is driving me nuts, I would think this is something that should be true, not wobble even a little, ty guys

They have a little wobble should not effect the performace of the car, Don't worry about it.

Lapper
04-12-2010, 07:12 PM
They all (Losi's) have a lil bit of slop in them...actually helps free things up a bit IMO.:D

macro junkie
04-12-2010, 10:54 PM
yep mine has slop as well.i rember asking adam this qestion when i joined and how to fix it,he said somthing like not to worry about it,so i didnt.:)

JBURCH
04-14-2010, 10:23 AM
my current summer 2010 set up.Thanks to adam drake for all his guidance and info on various sights and utube.

i set up what adam said 40 front 25 back for a starting point and stock camber.It raced perfect on grass and dirt but son as i got it on carpet astroturf the thing was so easy to rol and tip over.so i set 25 on front and 25 on back.sat camber to -5 :eek: and this seemed to be alot better.

is any you familiar with carpet astroturf?if so what settings do u use,shock oil and tyres?

im using this track for now

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/4451189489_664c416ba1_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4454553241_c0de8b8300_o.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4058/4454599213_7fed1b1fbf_o.jpg

To me that is not off road racing more like carpet racing, for some reason I just dont think I would enjoy that kind of racing. Give me dirt or give me death

Adam Sippel
04-24-2010, 05:58 AM
Instead of replacing the whole CV shaft, could i use this:
http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodID=LOSA3518
and just replace the pins? I hope so because this would save me a bunch of cash that I don't really have!!

Edit: After more investigating it appears I will have to replace the whole CV. Can't just press the pin out and press a new one in.

Mad Shark
05-04-2010, 06:56 PM
Hello my friends, I'm new here and I live in Brazil. I bought a Losi 8ight RR, but do not know which use battery (LiPo) and can not find the charger for it.
What do you use?
I have several rechargable batteries, but do not serve
Thanks :cool:

frankhodits
05-05-2010, 12:07 PM
Is the LOSA9376 the same collet that comes in the LOSA9105???????? I hope so because while going through my spares i noitced i have 2-LOSA9376 and i don't own a XXX-NT anymore. :confused:

S. Culbert
05-06-2010, 01:16 PM
Instead of replacing the whole CV shaft, could i use this:
http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodID=LOSA3518
and just replace the pins? I hope so because this would save me a bunch of cash that I don't really have!!

Edit: After more investigating it appears I will have to replace the whole CV. Can't just press the pin out and press a new one in.

You can replace the pins using the 3518 kit. Tools are available for easy removal of the pin. I just heat the end of the cv with a torch then tap the pin out hurry and tap the new one in center it and your good to go! A drop of red thread lock helps also but may not be neccasary. Be careful though! obviously the cv will be hot!

DeadmanCourt
05-07-2010, 11:01 PM
how long does a glow plug usually last for you guys?

TheFcuddy
05-11-2010, 09:47 PM
how long does a glow plug usually last for you guys?

That's a broad question. I have gone three gallons on one in a Mach 427. Only reason why I changed it was because I "thought" it might be effecting my tune. I have lost a plug as quickly as 45 seconds when I was breaking in my Big Red.

macro junkie
05-12-2010, 03:20 AM
Hello my friends, I'm new here and I live in Brazil. I bought a Losi 8ight RR, but do not know which use battery (LiPo) and can not find the charger for it.
What do you use?
I have several rechargable batteries, but do not serve
Thanks :cool:

i dont use lipo.im using venom 1600MAH and getting a 3hour run time from it.i will go to lipo one day.when i can afford it :o iv ran a extension going from the servo to the battery box so when i have to change the battery it takes 5 seconds instead of threading it through the servo case and taken ages.the extension cable was a great idea i got from a forum member here,.

1fastdude
05-12-2010, 04:22 AM
I noticed in the instruction manual that it has set-up help for the rear (rear squat) but nothing for the front! What does more or less anti-squat in the front do?

thenova70ss
05-21-2010, 10:51 AM
Guys i have the Losi Toe/Anti-squat Pivot Brace on the front and back what number Inserts do i need to add to the back to put it at the stock setting like it comes out of the box. And what number Inserts do i need to add to the front for the stock setting.

THANKS guys i have changed it so maney times trying to find a set upi that works for me i need to go back to the Stock Set up and go from there

Neobart
05-24-2010, 01:46 PM
I believe that it's 0's all around in the front.

1's up and 0's in the rear.

Darrin Quinn
05-27-2010, 11:13 AM
Question is the CVD's and drive shafts the same on both the 1.0 and 2.0 buggies? I need the 1.0 center front drive shaft and it is on back order...!!!

MikeFriery
05-28-2010, 01:02 PM
I noticed in the instruction manual that it has set-up help for the rear (rear squat) but nothing for the front! What does more or less anti-squat in the front do?

In the front its acutally called kickup, not anti-squat. Raising the front kickup (inclining the hinge pins upwards on the front brace) Will generally give you more off power steering and should be better though bumps. The best thing to do is to try drastic changes so you can feel it for yourself. Try max kickup, (1's up, 1's down front to rear) , stock (0 , 0) and minimum kickup (1's down, 1's up)

T-MAN
05-28-2010, 01:17 PM
Hey Darrin, see you're from St. Thomas. Did you check with Peter at Amazing Hobbies on Wellington St. in London? He's got tons of LOSI parts

LVBaja
06-01-2010, 12:32 PM
You can replace the pins using the 3518 kit. Tools are available for easy removal of the pin. I just heat the end of the cv with a torch then tap the pin out hurry and tap the new one in center it and your good to go! A drop of red thread lock helps also but may not be neccasary. Be careful though! obviously the cv will be hot!

I replace the pins in my center CVDs and use the Bone Saver tool to press the old pin out and press the new one in. It works great. It's available from A Main Hobbies.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/4355/n/Innovative-Designs-Bone-Saver-Micro-Press

LVBaja
06-01-2010, 12:35 PM
Question is the CVD's and drive shafts the same on both the 1.0 and 2.0 buggies? I need the 1.0 center front drive shaft and it is on back order...!!!

I have had both buggies and have interchanged the front center CVDs without any problems. The rear center CVD is longer on the 2.0 than the 1.0 though, so those aren't interchangable.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/9515/n/Team-Losi-Center-Front-CV-Driveshaft-Assembly

LVBaja
06-01-2010, 12:37 PM
i dont use lipo.im using venom 1600MAH and getting a 3hour run time from it.i will go to lipo one day.when i can afford it :o iv ran a extension going from the servo to the battery box so when i have to change the battery it takes 5 seconds instead of threading it through the servo case and taken ages.the extension cable was a great idea i got from a forum member here,.

For even more run time, you may want to check out the new Orion 1,900mAh NiMH receiver pack.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_61_127/products_id/163725/n/Team-Orion-Marathon-XL-1900mAh-Hump-Receiver-Pack

su3zero
06-01-2010, 01:03 PM
i have 1700 mAh Orion. And work great.

I have 24kg and 30kg servos

Darrin Quinn
06-01-2010, 05:10 PM
I have had both buggies and have interchanged the front center CVDs without any problems. The rear center CVD is longer on the 2.0 than the 1.0 though, so those aren't interchangable.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/9515/n/Team-Losi-Center-Front-CV-Driveshaft-AssemblyThanks LVBaja, much appreciated!!!!

Darrin Quinn
06-01-2010, 05:12 PM
Hey Darrin, see you're from St. Thomas. Did you check with Peter at Amazing Hobbies on Wellington St. in London? He's got tons of LOSI partsThanks T Man, I already ordered one from some where else...

Cappy
07-05-2010, 06:09 AM
I bought one of these and dont have to worry at all about charging on raceday.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/18753/n/Stickman-RC-5-Cell-1-8th-Scale-NiMH-Receiver-Pack-60V-2500mAh-Losi-Style

ahunt84
07-12-2010, 04:23 AM
I recently got a 2.0 upgrading from a 1.0 and in 3 races I have put 2 bodies on it because they keep cracking in the back where the body mount goes through and then break off up front behind the body mount hole and then go flying and have to end up finishing the race without a body. Anyone had any problems with this or know how to keep this from happening? I think I am gonna try some good velcro on my next one and see how it does.

Briguy
07-12-2010, 06:21 AM
Make the rear body mount hole more oval and slotted to allow movement when the chassis flexes . The 2.0 flexes more then the 1.0 and is putting a lot of force on the body .

ahunt84
07-12-2010, 07:08 AM
I tried that on my second body which helped keep the back from cracking but the front still broke off but thanks for the info.

Briguy
07-12-2010, 08:12 AM
Not sure what your doing wrong then cause that solved it for everyone I know that races them .

loweredram
07-12-2010, 03:07 PM
I'm just wondering what's going on with the 2.0 and in general some of the product quality of the Losi 8ight 2.0. I race at revrace and myself and several other racers have been having the same issues. Turnbuckles not holding up because of a maufacturing issue, plastic stripping out, having to buy a 1.0 servo saver because the 2.0 does not function properly, front adjustable hinge pin brace plastic inserts breaking, and the real kicker I purchased a brand new RE-10 exhaust put it together just to find out the header was manufactured backwards!!!! I called losi and they admitted there was an issue with the headers. They told me to send it in and they would replace it. and 2 out of the three Items I mentioned above they did handle. I'm just wondering what the problem is. When I had my 1.0 I would have challenged any mugen owner to question its strength. Now I couldn't help but laugh with them as I watched my buddies brand new 8ight 2.0 come off the track with a stripped camber tie rod that was a built kit. He called right then and they agreed to replace them but again I ask whats going on. I've raced losi for 15 years and this is the first time I've considered switching brands.....................IDK

Briguy
07-12-2010, 03:21 PM
I`ve never has any issues with the 2.0s I`ve had or my buddy`s I race with .

plack75
07-12-2010, 07:33 PM
should i go up weight in shock oil when the temp goes over 85 degrees? or should I just leave it

Neobart
07-14-2010, 08:55 AM
Some go up by 2.5-5wt, but no more than that. Over here temperatures stay within 15-28c through spring, summer and fall so I don't change oil for temp.

losini
07-15-2010, 04:10 AM
anyone ever run a square diff setup in the losi on astro, i have been in posts on other sites were i have seen people talk about it , what would be the difference noticed with a square setup like 5000 diff oil all round. when would it be used

nova110
07-16-2010, 06:59 PM
What weight do you guys run in the rear diff on every turn the back of my buggy slides way to much or should i change another thing on my set up for all my diffs I run 7000.
thanks.

cdbias
07-20-2010, 07:00 PM
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Please remove this spammer. Can't be good for the site.

losiNYCGEO
07-26-2010, 09:54 PM
Anybody know what is the correct setup with the Aluminum Hinge pin braces? Front and back

Vicdeth
07-26-2010, 10:51 PM
How many turns should you do on the servo arm spring.. I think it calls for 1 1/2 or 2 turns tight.. But when I bought the 1.0 buggy it had no tension on the spring at all..

cdbias
07-28-2010, 07:59 PM
Most guys just run them almost flush with the chassis or 1mm above.

Blint
08-12-2010, 01:28 AM
Hi there!

I am about to buy a 2.0 buggy.
Can you help me that this is the race roller or the RTR version on the pictures?

http://rcpilot.hu/users/951/3434/b_201004231610479467.jpg
http://rcpilot.hu/users/951/3434/b_201004231610574614.jpg
http://rcpilot.hu/users/951/3434/b_201004231611019589.jpg
http://rcpilot.hu/users/951/3434/b_201004231611037970.jpg
http://rcpilot.hu/users/951/3434/b_201004231611052403.jpg


The owner couldn't tell me.
Thanks in advance.
Regards!
Balint

Briguy
08-12-2010, 07:22 AM
That is the race roller .

su3zero
08-12-2010, 07:44 AM
what the diference between RTR and RR hinge pins?

thx

Cappy
08-12-2010, 12:34 PM
what the diference between RTR and RR hinge pins?

thx


Shock towers is the giveaway !! ;)

Blint
08-13-2010, 02:23 AM
Ok, thanks!
Balint

wayward wheelnut
08-19-2010, 12:52 PM
Hi Guys

Just a Quicky I wont to get some feed back on hop ups. More so at what point do hop ups start to take away from the car rather than improve your cars race ability .Can adding to many hop ups be a good thing or bad and if so which are the hop ups that get a big must have and the ones that get the big no. Look forward to your feedback The car is the buggy 2.o

Cappy
08-20-2010, 01:36 AM
Hi Guys

Just a Quicky I wont to get some feed back on hop ups. More so at what point do hop ups start to take away from the car rather than improve your cars race ability .Can adding to many hop ups be a good thing or bad and if so which are the hop ups that get a big must have and the ones that get the big no. Look forward to your feedback The car is the buggy 2.o


The Aluminum incline spindle set. Everything else is pretty much eye candy.

Kazzamoto
09-04-2010, 10:44 AM
:)

Is the Alu inline spindles the only thing I shoud get when I build?

Kazz

AdamDunley
09-05-2010, 01:26 PM
This has probably been asked before, but what do you guys use to secure the nut on the servo saver?? Mine keeps unwinding itself, even with loads of threadlock, usually full wound down after a race :confused:

Can you put an o-ring or an e-clip under the screw to stop it moving down??

Thanks

Kazzamoto
09-05-2010, 02:58 PM
So far, I see I need to get

Alu inline front spindles
Smart diff, (front only)

Can't wait! Nitrotech motors look great! Never really looked at them before until now...

Luca Canini
09-10-2010, 06:50 AM
Hi friends!
I live in Italy and I love 8ight!
Let me show you some pictures of my model dressed in stars and stripes!
Thank you all!
Ciao!
1849

1850

1851

1852

1853

Kazzamoto
09-16-2010, 11:30 AM
Looks great! Keep postin'. Looks kinda quiet here. Need to wake up this post!

Don Vinkemulder
09-22-2010, 08:58 PM
This has probably been asked before, but what do you guys use to secure the nut on the servo saver?? Mine keeps unwinding itself, even with loads of threadlock, usually full wound down after a race :confused:

Can you put an o-ring or an e-clip under the screw to stop it moving down??

Thanks

Take the saver apart then grind the sharp ends of the spring. Smooth them out. They could be digging into the nut and causing it to un-screw.

losipedrodias
09-26-2010, 07:48 AM
Hi,
I would like to help on one that relates to fuel thank, I wonder how to put the part that is not fitted to be the link between the interior and exterior of the thank you can paste and place or not.
can someone explain me how to put the piece in the thank?
thanks

Rob Hamm
10-04-2010, 09:51 PM
Bear with me, 1st post. My buggy is steering like crazy off power. On power it's nice since it can be controlled with the throttle. Off power it rolls nicely around the tightest corners literally will turn on a dime. My challenge is getting it out of a corner since appling the slightest throttle turns it around the ring instantly. Getting it out of a tight corner and making it to the point when the thing unloads on the front tires is nuts. Once the fronts start spinning it is a very nice driving machine. It was crazy loose all over the track so the changes i made that seemed to help alot are moving rear shocks to outer pos. on tower, went from 25 to 27.5 on rear shock oil, moved rear upper camber link out 1 hole on hub and believe it or not the change that tamed it the most was changing from 2.3 to 2.5 swaybar in rear. This is one cat quick responsive buggy and if i could get it out of the slow tight corners better it would be perfect. The Adam Drake 2008 Thunder Alley setup looks intriuging. Any tips will be much appreciated.

daviddwilson
10-09-2010, 03:38 AM
I have had mine now for almost 8ight months and still hav'nt had this issue. I guess I don't crash much...;)

I am new to racing buggies and have a question regarding setting up to race on loose dirt tracks with loads of loose stones when dry. The problem I have is when exiting the corner my buggy spins 360 deg without too much effort. What adjustments should I look at making to reduce the spin outs.

Cappy
10-10-2010, 05:39 PM
I am new to racing buggies and have a question regarding setting up to race on loose dirt tracks with loads of loose stones when dry. The problem I have is when exiting the corner my buggy spins 360 deg without too much effort. What adjustments should I look at making to reduce the spin outs.


try going to a thinker oil in the rear shocks.

S. Culbert
10-11-2010, 06:26 PM
If you have alot of loose stones on the track, a set up change may not help... it would be like driving on marbles!.... may just want to jump in with some of the other guys and prep the track before the heats , mains ect....

stanton
11-03-2010, 04:55 PM
I am new to racing buggies and have a question regarding setting up to race on loose dirt tracks with loads of loose stones when dry. The problem I have is when exiting the corner my buggy spins 360 deg without too much effort. What adjustments should I look at making to reduce the spin outs.

David,

The inclined spindles will help control out of corners and probably the best solution would be a center smart diff or go to 5k in the center diff. You should be able to wood it out of any corner. I personally would run 553 or a center smart diff on a dry loose track like you refere to. Also, make sure everything in your suspension is working correctly. No bent shock shafts, hinge pins, bent a-arms, droop screws are set and so on. I'm sure you have all that set though. right?

Angelo D
11-05-2010, 08:30 PM
Are you having your problem when u get on throttle coming out of the turn or are u spinning out cause ur sliding the car through the turn? to me it sounds like you want more forward bite.. things to do..stand up your shocks on the rear tower, go to 56 piston 30 wt... you also can try a softer rear sway bar.. but more than likey you have the wrong compound tires..

garryclark1
11-08-2010, 05:35 PM
I am a rc racer of twenty years and have drifted away from it the past couple of years I need to know what I can do to make my brand new 8ight upgraded to a 2.0 buggy. I have less money these days to just buy a brand new one like I would before due to the construction industry being in the toilets. Any help what be appreciated. Thanks Garry Clark

Spreugschat
11-09-2010, 04:21 PM
I would at least get the 2.0 chassis and the rear driveshaft. With this you will need the 2.0 radio tray and throttle linkage. Then you can just replace the parts like rear hubs, arms, towers as they wear out

sweber76
11-14-2010, 07:15 AM
I've just purchased two new sets (4 caps) of aluminum shock caps for the Losi 8ight buggy/truggy. Now the problem I'm having is that they will not screw onto the shock bodies. I can only get about an 8th of a thread to start before they get very tight. All four of the new caps are like this so it's not just one being machined incorrectly. The shock bodies are off an older buggy so did they change the thread pitch over the years?

chadmillikan
11-14-2010, 07:59 PM
I had that same problem with one of my shock caps, but they worked on all the others. So I bought another shock body and it worked fine. So what I can say is try all the caps on all the shocks. Thats costly if none work

khannibal
11-18-2010, 05:08 AM
hello - noob question here!

. I recently got a new 8 2.0 and got the aluminum rear hub as a hop up. However, I am having difficulty disassembling the stock hubs from the dog bones, pins etc. Could anyone give me some guidance on this? I would like to use the parts from the stock hubs and transfer them to the aluminum ones - I am new to the hobby and I have been following the manual but it's still not clear to me.

Thanks in advance!

Kid Racer
11-24-2010, 06:57 PM
First you need to remove the wheel from the hub. Then the metal pice that ataches to the wheel has a big hole on the end. In the hole is a screw that you need to lossen. After that you push the pin out and remove the pice. Then you remove the other screws and nuts then it should come out.

camiloro
02-01-2011, 07:51 AM
Hello, i have two questions.

Who knows the hardness of the sock spring, please rate for color an hardness.

my track is very small and technical, to dry, much dust, recomend me a tire please...

1BLADE1
02-02-2011, 03:59 AM
for the 1/8 scale 8IGHT and 8IGHT-T shocks

for the 2.3 (buggy fronts)
RED 4.1
Silver 4.4
Green 4.7
Black 5.0
White 5.3
Grey 5.6

for the 3.1 springs
RED 2.5
Silver 2.8
Green 3.1
Black 3.4
White 3.7
Grey 4.0
Purple 4.3


hope this can help everyone.....:)

"The Losi Boy"
02-07-2011, 02:04 PM
hello, I can recommend a configuration for a buggy Losi 8ight 2.0, the track where I run is:

-very smooth
-the track is not loose the soil is compacted
is dry-

I can recommend silicone for shocks (on the track is very hot), also the height of the buggy, the number of mm that should have the shocks back and front, stabilizer bars to be used and finally the color shock spring.
please answer me the buggy Losi 8ight 2.0 is walking very badly on the track.
thanks.
Greetings!

Harbison85
02-08-2011, 10:08 AM
Hey guys, im so confused now with the manuals and hop up parts list on the new website. i race all the so cal tracks and need the alluminum front spindles and carriers. I was looking on the site and now theres a 2.0 buggy race roller and a TLR 2.0 buggy? whats the difference now one comes not built? well i know i need the 10 degree carriers but which spindles now? theres like 3 different ones. im guessing the Losa1729 ? Thanks this is what part numbers i think i need and what i wrote down after looking at the hop up list. Losa1734 and Losa1729.

1BLADE1
02-08-2011, 06:59 PM
yes, one comes "Assembled" one is just a "Kit"

well you'll hear many say they "Need" the 10 deg carriers? but just "Try" the car "First Stock"......some Do not like the carriers,some "Do"
if you find you Do not like them? then it is a 120.00+ investment you may not like?
but they can help in Varing "Conditions" "Depending on the Driver" and track conditions......

but from a "Personal Standpoint" i like them on some of the California tracks,and others i like the "Stock Deg" ones.......that is just for "Me"

if you "Already Have the 2.0" then you already "Know" what you'll need, etc.
but if it is your "First Losi 2.0" try it "Stock First" you'll be really Suprised !! :)
if your really Consistant, and looking to shave a little here or there over the corse of a race, yes, a good investment,takes a little getting "Used to"

i just mention this as i see "So many People" buy brand car A, or B, or Z etc.
get all the hop ups and Bling-Bling and the car doesnt seem to perform like they thought it would??
just hate to see someone get the car and not be happy with it :(
in it's "Stock Form" be suprised how Strapped it is !! :D:D


the numbers are 1729 and the 1734 :) for the 10 deg :)


but here is some General guidelines on "Caster", it doesnt "Always Apply" but a general guide....:)
generaly you'll use a "Steeper" (More Vertical) on Slipery,rough and Inconsistant and "Rough" surfaces.......

and a more Shallower Angle, (or more Inclined) on more "Smooth" and High Grip Surfaces.......and good on "Bumpy" surfaces.......
and someone asked me what is the difference between Rough? and Bumpy..??
best i can discribe rough would be a like "Pot-Holes" where the tires would go "Into"
and Bumpy would be what the tires "Roll-Over" :):)
inclined ones work really good on "Bumpy surfaces too....


but again it is just a general Guideline, but doesnt always "Apply"
for Example? for "Me" i use the stock angle carriers at "Revelation" and Thunder Alley and ARC and use the Inclined ones at West Coast,OCRC and Hot Rod
and sometimes when the track is pretty Smooth at Rev, i'll put on the inclined ones...:):)

ChrisL
03-01-2011, 06:09 PM
1Blade1, just a heads up that caster and inclination are not the same thing. I think there are some good posts explaining the differences already on here.

1BLADE1
03-01-2011, 11:08 PM
Caster Description

The primary functions of caster are to improve directional stability and returnability.
Incorrect caster angles can cause excessive steering effort and tire wear.
Caster is defined as the forward or rearward tilt or "Inclination" of the steering axis as compared to a vertical line and viewed from the side.
Caster is measured in degrees.
Caster is positive when the top of the steering axis is tilted rearward or "Inclined" leaning back.
Caster is negative when the top of the steering axis is tilted forward.
or more Vertical

"Or"

if anyone like the Technical terms.

Caster Inclination in general is the angle between a reference plane and another plane or axis of direction.


now what does that all mean....??
really nothing ...????
considering there are 6 billion people on the planet....???
and like all things there are as Stated from
ChrisL there will always be 6 billion "Opinions"
and like al things i used what could be considered terms in which it could be easily "Understood"
i could get "Techincal" but what good does that do to anyone trying to get the "General Idea"
if you like to be "Techincal"
one would need to ask....."What Is Caster"

i could use this again?
Caster Inclination in general is the angle between a reference plane and another plane or axis of direction.

or i could say........
Caster is the Inclined Angle of the Hubs........
or i could say........and i think this is pretty close to the Definition from most Dictonaries....??

the slight usually backward tilt or "Incline" from vertical of the axis of the steering mechanism of an automobile for giving directional stability to the front wheels

so what i said
"IN GENERAL" was i use the Inclined Spnidles as "LOSI calls them"
isnt that "Easier"........LOL

see no one ever "Sees"
"In General"
meaning it makes neather Right or Wrong......

and Correct, there are some 7,634,245 (+/- 100,000) some odd Definitions for the said "Subject" of Opinon Differences"
as always what i was trying to Convey and to help in the

"General Idea"

for the time and Posting so as the Individual did not have to look all over the "Web" for a Particular Answer to his Question......
yes, i am sure thay could have looked someplace on the Fourm?? but it is Easier for most to look in the area where they looked for a "Particular Answer to there Question"

ChrisL
03-13-2011, 10:38 PM
Sorry mate wasn't having a go at you, Just pointing out to others that there are the 10 degree castor standard kit spindles and the 10 degree inclined spindles - both have 10 degrees castor so it is important for them to realise that it is another area of geometry which has been changed.

I think the terminology can be a little confusing as inclination can refer to both castor (as you rightly mention) or kingpin angle. In Losi speak though, lets consider that inclination is refering to the kingpin angle or we will all end up confused.

Cheers

ChrisL
03-13-2011, 10:45 PM
Here is a little article and diagram explaining kingpin inclination. Think of it as being in perpendicular plane to caster ie viewed from the front not the side.

http://www.tpub.com/content/armyordnance/OD1007/OD10070026.htm

Team ASA (Xray & TLR)
03-29-2011, 06:50 AM
New to Losi and just done assembling my TLR 8eight 2.0...in 3 days my car is going to hit the dirts for our local series races here in ME. I would like to know a few suggestions on set ups i.e. suspensions (shocks, springs, shock oil, shock location with respect to towers), diff oils F/C/R types of tyres etc. Our track's surface is loose (sands), very bumpy, 60% technical (curves ), 30% straingts and 10% jumps.

Appreciate your feedbacks

Cheers

Adrian

Token
04-06-2011, 12:56 PM
Just start from stock and see where you need to go from there.

Jordanm36
04-07-2011, 11:48 PM
Im new to the whole rc world but i just bought the losi 8ight rtr buggy i was running it today and it ran good for awhile then it stoped the engine was still running but the buggy would not go so i cut the engine off put it on the starter box and the flywheel is spening but the piston is not turning over but if i take the glo plug out the piston will turn over any ideas what this could be?

Mike Kendall
04-08-2011, 06:50 AM
The clutch nut has come loose. You need to take the engine out, remove the clutch bell. from there you can check the collet and flywheel. If there is to much wear on them they should be replace, if not then just tighten and put everything else back together and go.

buggyman
04-16-2011, 04:45 AM
New to Losi and just done assembling my TLR 8eight 2.0...in 3 days my car is going to hit the dirts for our local series races here in ME. I would like to know a few suggestions on set ups i.e. suspensions (shocks, springs, shock oil, shock location with respect to towers), diff oils F/C/R types of tyres etc. Our track's surface is loose (sands), very bumpy, 60% technical (curves ), 30% straingts and 10% jumps.

Appreciate your feedbacks

Cheers

Adrian

Look at the set-up page on TLR Racing

Tarimon
04-26-2011, 12:16 PM
@ChrisL:

Look here, I hope, this will explain something... ;)

ChrisL
05-25-2011, 05:53 PM
Great graphics and thanks for highlighting my point that there are a range of carriers (which must be used with the corresponding spindles) with 10 or 12 degrees of caster and 0 or 5 degrees of "kingpin" inclination. :)

fernandomi2001
06-22-2011, 02:58 PM
Hi, i just looking some Drake's set ups, and i saw he used the Losi Aluminum Inclined King Pin Spindle & Carrier Set (12°) (LOSA1728). this option give to the truggy some advantage in the truck ride.

what is the effect of the (king pin inclination)??


Here in Argentina the tracks are very dusty and have lost dirt

Big Puddin
07-02-2011, 05:19 PM
Hi, i just looking some Drake's set ups, and i saw he used the Losi Aluminum Inclined King Pin Spindle & Carrier Set (12°) (LOSA1728). this option give to the truggy some advantage in the truck ride.

what is the effect of the (king pin inclination)??


Here in Argentina the tracks are very dusty and have lost dirt



They are easiers to drive and better in the bumps.

John Sullivan
07-03-2011, 12:26 PM
Has anyone had trouble with tie rods pushing through the tie rod ends i had three do it to me yesterday. I tried brand new losi tie rods and tie rod ends and still happened:confused:
Thanks John

John Sullivan
07-04-2011, 07:01 AM
"tie rods pushing through the tie rod ends"..... how do you manage that?

I dont know thats what i am asking for. A friend of mine had the same problem Saturday. The camber link in the front and rear would push through the plastic rod ends and change camber dramatically from 2 degrees to 5 degrees in one run.