Strike SCT

[cbass722]

when you say weak idler gear. Is the steel one the way to go or is it worth buying all the harden steel gear set

[D_FAST]

yes. supposenly losi fixed the material issue used from there supplier awhile back. but i went threw 4 plastic, idlers and 6 aluminium ones. with a well maintianed slipper clutch.

So just get the Robinson Racing Products Harnder steel idler, stick with the steel gear diff, use a good sticky grease, and harden those out drive cups.
Again Losi supposenly fixed the issue but i have not yet found a set that you dont have to harden yourself if you want more then 10 cycles before replacment is required.

[dentonmac]

when you say weak idler gear. Is the steel one the way to go or is it worth buying all the harden steel gear set

CHANGE OUT THE IDLER! I have both the Hot Racing Hardened gear set (using stock diff), and the Robinson hardened steel idler. Both have performed flawlessly, but I prefer the Hot Racing set. You also get the hardened top shaft. To me it just completes the setup.

I love my Strike. I have progressed to a converted XXX-T in the mod class, but I love racing the Strike in the stock class - too much fun. And letting the kids have a little fun with it, without worries.

Do a couple mods, and it is a very fine truck.

Hope this helps!

[DBacon]

I am new to this thread, but carefully read and took notes on the first 1000 posts. Then I skipped to the end, so I could post my opinion.
(EDIT 12/3/2010-I finally finished the whole thread, every post is worth reading, and that should be required reading for all new here.)
My experience is that I bought 5 Strikes so far, one still in the box. Some were RTR some were BND. Some have silver dog bones, some have black dog bones.

My two boys set up a plywood jump that would make the cars fly at least 2-3 foot high and land 10-15 feet away on my front lawn. Rarely did they land properly, mostly doing end-ohs and had to send my grandson to flip them over.

We run 3s LiPos, first Turnigy 2200 30C, then got some 2650 30C, now running 3000 30C.
We noticed the motor was hot so we dropped the 20t pinion to a 16t pinion, and now they do wheelies on carpet, and on pavement if you back up first.

Everything was stock, except I installed headlights and taillights, but they beat the crap out of them, and I had to re-install a bunch of times. I finally got some screw-in LED holders that stayed in place.

Along with the new LED holders, I installed a simple 2-transistor circuit that changes three blue 3mm LEDs on the top to (2) red ones when the 3s LiPo discharge limit of 3V per cell is reached. As you know the stock speed controller is only for 2s LiPos so we need this indicator.

We suffered no damage, other than I felt like I was going to have a heart attack every time I saw this carnage. Now my boys email videos back and forth, but won't let me see them. One of them has developed the double flip and land on wheels (every once in a while...) Still no breakage. The bodies have developed a lot of splits and cracks.

One son let kids loose with his Strike, and the motor burned out, but instead of buying a $24 one, I found an identical unit used as a starter box on Tower Hobbies for $9. It has a "flux ring", which I must trim a bit to get the 16t to mesh the stock 90t spur gear.

They got together at the LHS to practice on this great track (Larry's Performance RC in Utica) and did come back with broken front shock lower plastic mounts, and a bent front camber link.

Thanks to this great forum, we learned to move the top of the shock to behind the tower, and completely solved this problem. I ordered four more motors from Tower before you guys find out about this great deal, and we did burn out one more, one of the brushes wore down to zero.

I am not happy about the thin brush holders, but the rest of the motor is fine. I wish I had a bunch of end bells, but at $9 a motor, and they last at least 25-30 3s lipos and a lot of abuse, I have no complaint.

I am sorry for all the broken parts when innocently driving in a parking lot, perhaps you should bash them into everything like my sons do.

We did have to replace one front control arm, due to flat-out run into a mailbox post, but that is normal enough...

Only for the humor aspect, I must ask the parking lot drivers; "Do you wait for the passenger cars to clear out first?" No offense meant, just couldn't resist saying that.

I will go inspect for worn out drives and snapped pins tomorrow, but I don't expect any disasters...

[DBacon]

For those burning out motors, I use a 3s Lipo, but I get away with it (sort of) by using 90t/16t which just barely meshes. If you try any numerically lower ratio I am sure you will fry something. Don't use a 3s LiPo if you expect everything to last forever. In fact if that is your expectation, don't use any battery at all.

New motors are available from Tower LXMTY8 $8.99 They have a "flux ring" which is supposed to help handle the extra magnetic field for greater torque. But you have to shave it a bit with tin snips so the 16t gear will mesh with the 90t gear.

Mount it with the positive pole up, so that the trimmed portion of the flux ring will be positioned where it would otherwise bump the tranny and interfere with the gear adjustment.
Too bad the red wire will be long and the black will be short, big deal.

Buy a good quality allen wrench for the set-screw, and a drop of red locktite on assy.

The motors are not serviceable, the brush holders are thin "springy" copper alloy, not the square tube holders we are used to seeing. The commutator can get glazed, and if you really are determined you can get it apart and clean it up by hand, lots of work. Next time this happens to me I will see if I can clean it through the vents.

When ppl say to "oil it after cleaning", they mean the bushings, NOT the commutator.

Hope this helps.

[dragontrs]

well got a 10t brushless in my strike now and this thing is fast but also have the xxx-sct with stock set up and it will out run it for the first 200 feet. did some speed runs and had a cop hit it with the radar and the top speed was 69mph that is flying. the only problem was the idler gear in it was new when i started and went out in 20 runs so now i'm stuck waiting for new one from hot racing and hope it will make it last. other than 3 idler gears and 1 set of out drives and 2 sets of dog bones. hardened the out drives on 2 set and got the hardened dog bones and it's holding up good other than idler. if looking to go brushless need to upgrade the idler or you'll go through many of them.

[DBacon]

Well, after enough running of the stock Losi Strike motor on 3s lipos, they are finally failing. My family has 4 of these SCTs now, and 2 of them has had to have 2 motor changes each. Now they both are 3600 kva brushless, one with a 60A ESC, the other with a 100A ESC. We started with a 35A ESC, but it failed. I still don't think it failed due to overcurrent, because the output semiconductors did not burn out, the fried part was in the controller section before the outputs. We dis run it on 3s, and it was made only for 2s, so we got what we deserved.

I found some brushed replacements at Tower, used in a starter box for nitro cars. They look identical, but not quite as fast. They are 1/3rd the price, however...

My boys put the most time on their cars, and also subject them to the greatest abuse, sometimes I can't even watch, but I still must fix them, so I made a part that may be helpful to others to strengthen the two back parts, above the motor, that we have broken.

I could only add five pictures, so I'll describe what follows after the plate has been assembled:
6-Put an allen wrench through the access hole you drilled to tighten the two screws to the trans mounting pad.
7-put screws in two of the four spots for the bottom rear frame into the floor pan, the ones that go in from the top. You don't have to tighten these yet, but they have to be there because you will cover them up with the next step.
8- Install the new assembly on top of the floor pan with four screws, leaving the two access holes for the screws described in (7) to be reached.
9- Install the back part of the frame to the floor pan, with the two screws from the top as described above, then with the two from the bottom.
10- Install the two screws that go horizontally in the top tab of the assembly to hold the back part of the frame and the upper part which is a body mount and shock mount.
11- Go race.

I can provide a template if anybody likes, just say so.
If these photos don't load right away, close the pop-up and try again, it comes right up for me, I run Win7 which is freaky like that...

[dragontrs]

Well, after enough running of the stock Losi Strike motor on 3s lipos, they are finally failing. My family has 4 of these SCTs now, and 2 of them has had to have 2 motor changes each. Now they both are 3600 kva brushless, one with a 60A ESC, the other with a 100A ESC. We started with a 35A ESC, but it failed. I still don't think it failed due to overcurrent, because the output semiconductors did not burn out, the fried part was in the controller section before the outputs. We dis run it on 3s, and it was made only for 2s, so we got what we deserved.

I found some brushed replacements at Tower, used in a starter box for nitro cars. They look identical, but not quite as fast. They are 1/3rd the price, however...

My boys put the most time on their cars, and also subject them to the greatest abuse, sometimes I can't even watch, but I still must fix them, so I made a part that may be helpful to others to strengthen the two back parts, above the motor, that we have broken.

I could only add five pictures, so I'll describe what follows after the plate has been assembled:
6-Put an allen wrench through the access hole you drilled to tighten the two screws to the trans mounting pad.
7-put screws in two of the four spots for the bottom rear frame into the floor pan, the ones that go in from the top. You don't have to tighten these yet, but they have to be there because you will cover them up with the next step.
8- Install the new assembly on top of the floor pan with four screws, leaving the two access holes for the screws described in (7) to be reached.
9- Install the back part of the frame to the floor pan, with the two screws from the top as described above, then with the two from the bottom.
10- Install the two screws that go horizontally in the top tab of the assembly to hold the back part of the frame and the upper part which is a body mount and shock mount.
11- Go race.

I can provide a template if anybody likes, just say so.
If these photos don't load right away, close the pop-up and try again, it comes right up for me, I run Win7 which is freaky like that...

the 3s lipo makes this truck run fast but i did one better with the stock esc tonight i tryed it with 2 7.2v making 14.4v and i burned the back tires off the truck and had the radar for a speed run and got 55mph on the stock system not as fast as my brushless system but thats fast for a bone stock setup. the back peace the you show broke has broke on me last night but i have 3 backups and now after seeing your way of fixing it i'm going to do it

[DBacon]

I am flattered that you like my fix. When you build it, bolt the two pieces together and make a template by putting it on your flat bed scanner with the lid wide open. I used some brushed aluminum I had around, it was soft enough to bend without cracking.

Go buy a Whitney punch it is the best tool bargain in the world!

Make sure the bend fits the part tightly, as it adds space to the assembly and makes it difficult to pull the chassis together to put the bolts in between the floor pan and the bottom rear frame part.

Also note it is not symmetrical, so be aware of this, or it might not fit well. Also if you replace the "captive nut" with a regular nut, make sure it is thin so it will clear the motor.

Trim the metal closely so it doesn't overhang, or it won't fit in the floor pan.

Good luck with it.

[harrisshawn4455]

what is the best brushless setup to get for the losi strike to do some good wheelies and good jumps around the yard

[DBacon]

I would try for a 3500 or 3600kva motor and a 60Amp or greater controller.
I put a 3600 kva moto/35A ESC package from HK in my Son's Strike, but it was made for 2s and we ran 3s, it burned up. I don't think it was overcurrent, but I re-used that motor with a 60A ESC from HK and put it in his twin brother's car, using 3s, works fine.

In all cases please remove the stock 20T pinion and install a 16T pinion, to reduce the load (& heat) on the motor. This requires a little Dremel drum sander work to the front of the gearbox to get clearance for the motor, as it must get closer to provide good gear mesh.

The first son is running a 100A ESC/motor package he bought from HK, using the 16T and 2s, runs great. Our LHS does not allow 3s lipo in competition, but we don't know why, and we also just race during "open" racing, no competition. Anybody know why 2s not 3s?

[dragontrs]

what is the best brushless setup to get for the losi strike to do some good wheelies and good jumps around the yard

well this is a good esc for a cheap price http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-60a-brushless-esc-for-1-10-car.html with the tacon 3200kv motor http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m25-car-3650-3200.html i use these in my strike and get good speed but for brushed i have a way to get over 50 and use stock motor and esc http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m8t5dc2lwzs&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

[DBacon]

That's a good reference, nice line of parts at this hobby shop, thanks for a great reference.

[kincer]

Im runnin the EZRun 4300kv brushless system in my Strike and it rips on 2s! I also wanted to post a pic of my Strike, I dont race I bash and Ive done a few wheel,tire and body mods let me know what you think.

[DBacon]

Did you reduce the size of the stock 20T pinion?

[kincer]

All stock except motor and esc!

[DBacon]

That's a lot of RPMs, I would think you would have to gear it down to keep from overheating the motor. Any trouble with heat?

[kincer]

No trouble at all my buddy is running the same combo no issues with his either.

[DBacon]

Must be the 2s battery. I have been running 3s in mine, and my two Sons, and all motors we have had would overheat with the 20T. Not real bad, but we got better performance with the 16T pinion, and the motors stay nice & cool.

I had to sand away a bit of the front of the trans for clearance so I could get a proper mesh, but that was easy with my Dremel.

We have run 4 motors, the stock brushed, a replacement from Tower that is almost identical, a 3500kva BL and a 3600kva BL in our Strikes.

I guess we need to switch to 2s, that is what the LHS wants if we run in a race.
Does anybody know why 3s would be disallowed? Is this normal at other tracks?

[kincer]

My Slash 4x4 can run 3s but not long with out heating up too, IMO if you wanna run 3s without issues you are better off upgrading to something in 2650kv range like a mamba monster or something like that, these are both fast enough for me on 2s so I'm quite satisfied with them. How do you like my wheels and tires and body lift?

[DBacon]

Yes I agree the lower kva is much better, but most are offered in higher kva numbers.

As far as your body and wheel clearance, it looks like you solved a big problem we have with our Strikes with the wheels hitting the inside of the wheel wells. We have trimmed them a bit, but don't want to trim it all away.

We have lowered two of the three Strikes with spacers in the shocks, and tightened the springs all the way we can, this makes it corner better. I also added sway bars, front and back, it was easy to do, and helped a lot. Didn't lower mine, as I run it in the grass in the summer.

The problem has been amplified by me putting LEDs in for headlights, tail lights etc. In the front, I had to move the LED holders forward to clear the tires, and I am worried they will get bashed off. My Sons are pretty aggressive drivers, not to others, but to the jumps and barriers in the track.

So what did you do to get all that clearance? IT LOOKS GREAT...

[kincer]

The wheels and tires are 2.2 Axial beadlocks with Rock Lizard tires they came on another rig I bought on Ebay and I fabbed up new body mounts out of steel banding used to secure items on pallets I"ll take some pics and post tomorrow, the front is raised about an inch and the rear is about an inch and a quarter. I really hated the look of the strike body before but I think its decent now although I do have plans to put the Jconcepts Bajr body on it eventually, This thing actually goes pretty decent in the snow not as good as my 4x but decent with the ground clearance and tires.

[DBacon]

That is the type of mods I should make on my Strike, as I use it in the grass, I am the official "Goose-Buster" for our manicured beaches on a small man-made lake.

My two boys need it as low as it can go, as they race at an indoor track. The stock tires have plenty of traction, so the car flips on a tight turn. We have improved the condition a lot with a new (lower) battery location, extension limiters in the shocks, and sway bars front and rear.

[Weaponx]

How do you mount axial beadlocks on the strike. Have two sets one axial and one rc4wd biohazards.

[kincer]

You pull the wheel bearings out of the stock wheels, install the hex bearing in the axial wheel and countersink the outside of the wheel to fit outer bearing and a few washers to get a tight fit and the back you will just need a few washers for a tight fit.

[DBacon]

I mounted the battery below the chassis, as my Son requested. He says it corners much better now on the indoor track at Larry's Performance RC in Sterling Heights.

I made it from fiberglass circuit board material, made plastic ends, and carbon fiber tubes for the hinge and latches. Note that I don't trust the epoxy, so the tubes are wired to the fiberglass in addition.

The first try had a cf tube for the latch, but that cracked, so I made a brass replacement and soldered it to the 4-40 captive nut. The Kit is for my other Son, I just used brass tube for all three segments of the latch.

You don't want to do this if you run on grass, too low to the ground.

[KingdomRacer]

Yo Bacon, nice mod!

[DBacon]

Almost as nice as your Avatar, thanks.

[kincer]

Here is the pics of the brackets I made for body mounts,there is velcro on top holding the body on.

[kincer]

Heres a body on pic again! Oh and one of my snow cover too!

[DBacon]

That mounting method is neat, simple and effective, I like it.
How did you attach the Velcro to the body? I can't get any glue to stick to that slippery silvery interior.

Wow, that snow really gets everywhere, but it looks like you have it foiled! Is that Coroplast from one side to the other?
It looks very effective.

[kincer]

Wipe down inside of body where you wanna apply velcro with rubbing alchohol then let it sit in the house at room temp for 24hrs after you apply the velcro, and use a good quality 3m velcro. The plastic is corrugated from work dont know what its called though but it works well I have it held on with velcro too.

[DBacon]

I scrubbed and scrubbed with 91% rubbing alcohol, then used hot glue to hold LEDs and the wires for headlights and taillights, but the glue keeps failing. I finally got some threaded holders for the LEDs, and that was better.
I now use the nozzle of the hot glue gun to melt the silver coating a little before I squeeze the glue out, but it is still "iffy".

Btw, now that you say "corrugated" I am sure it is Coroplast. I made a few airplanes out of that stuff, they end up looking like the airframe of the Ford TriMotor

[kincer]

I don't think hot glue is the ticket for what you want to do, you should try 3m automotive grade two sided tape
It works great for that kind of stuff, its expensive but well worth it and a big roll will last you years that velcro I put on my strike is stuck on there good I can pick the truck up with just the body.

[DBacon]

I have a big roll of that, it is now about 8 years old, but I keep it away from dust in a big manilla envelope, and seems to work as well as it ever did.

But for some things, such as holding an LED in place, it seems a little awkward... I will put strips across my wire bundles to hold them to the body, that should work.

Thanks for the tip.

[dragontrs]

well had a bad day with my truck. was running in the sand next to the house and with the tires i have hook to good in the sand. well long story short my front is in 2 pieces. just hit my shed like many time before but heard snap and then went to back up and the front of the body hit the ground.:mad: this is my first big brake in 9 months of having it. i had so many guys make fun of my sand tires because they are from a toy grade rc but they work great and send the sand flying in the air. so no racing this weekend hope to have fixed soon.

[dragontrs]

here is the pics of what happened

[DBacon]

I wonder if that 4 or 5" drainage pipe that comes in big rolls, cheap, could be placed around these spots to cushion the blow? I have seen pictures of race tracks where that was used to define the roadway.

[harrisshawn4455]

ya but im having some problems with my strike, like i can turn it on and the esc light usuallly flashes red like 3 times then turns green and is ready but it just flashes like twice and then shuts off and then when it does turn on the reciever does not turn on so then the esc is on and the reciever is off and nothing works could you help me out

[DBacon]

You may not be able to tell that the receiver is off just because it does nothing. It will also do nothing if it doesn't receive a valid signal.
Also I will go get my manual and find out what the three flashes are...

Well, I tested one and it flashes 4 times after turn on. Then, since I run "Practice Mode" for slow acceleration, it flashes green slowly.
Yours probably stays steady green, that would be the normal mode. Green= NiCad, if it is red it is setup for LiPo, does yours match your battery type?
If it flashes red for you, it sounds like you have it set for LiPo, is this the battery you use?

Possibly you have to "Bind" the receiver to the transmitter. The transmitter sends out an identifying code that no other transmitter has. Your receiver must be taught that this is the code to listen to, no others. For this reason, you must "Bind" it when there are no other transmitters close by.

To "Bind":
1. Both transmitter and receiver must be OFF'
2. Insert the flat, three-position "Bind" plug into the receiver binding port, the bottom one of the four connector spots.
3. With the wheels up, turn on the receiver with the ESC switch. The LED should be blinking.
4. Turn on the transmitter, an LED on this should be blinking too.
5. Wait for the LEDs to stop blinking, meaning the job of "Binding" is done
6. Turn off the ESC switch, then turn off the transmitter.
7. Remove the bind plug, and test it.

I just noticed a note in the manual that says if you are low on battery power, the receiver may shut off. Possibly you should charge the battery...

[DBacon]

Hopin' to find that this helped you...

[DBacon]

Two days later... I still hope it helped...

Five days now, must have helped or you would ask for more help... (maybe)

[rockstarstrike11]

hello all I just purchased a stike xxx-sct and I need some help as far as suspension settings and springs go. the truck is stock except i added a sidwinder sct brushless motor and speed control. thanks in advance for the help!!!

[Sno]

Are there anyother bodies that will fit the strike? I just got mine but i want to know if anuther body from maby pro-line, jconcepts, ect. will fit??

[DBacon]

These last two questions are hard to answer.
1. Your suspension mods are made according to what you intend to do with it.
2. Any body will fit, if you modify it enough. You need to measure one at your LHS, and see!

[dragontrs]

Are there anyother bodies that will fit the strike? I just got mine but i want to know if anuther body from maby pro-line, jconcepts, ect. will fit??

i have the pro line desert rat on mine if you do get other bods you need to mod the rear post with ones from tower hobbies. you can run any body if you do the mod i have pics some where but they should still be around on here

[NAMOR]

NEW BODY
http://img5.rajce.idnes.cz/d0507/3/3395/3395800_c795f7c7bcdc2166545e6cc7d992a8eb/images/hummer_II.jpg
http://namor40.rajce.idnes.cz/HUMMER_H3_RC_model_Dakar/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zRbAJ1HgoBc

[rob84]

When selecting LiPo mode when the speed control quits flashing red it switches back to green, is this normal? is it in LiPo mode?
Thank You

I've been wondering the same thing.

[jeffchere]

hi i have a strike and are all ways breaking the turnbuckles is the a hop up option or what can i do to fix the problem and what options are there for wheels as i found the frounts are
hard to find something to fit cheesr jeff

[haz]

hi, not much action here these days, but thought I'd post a vid I made:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15lX6bqrPe0&feature=feedlik

[Chris Wolfson]

hi i have a strike and are all ways breaking the turnbuckles is the a hop up option or what can i do to fix the problem and what options are there for wheels as i found the frounts are
hard to find something to fit cheesr jeff

Go for the lunsford turnbuckles.

[Barry009]

Hi. New to this site. Bough a Losi Strike for my son in July of 2010. It is a great truck. Did have to replace the motor in the fall as something got inside it and did some damage, LHS sold us a Titan 530 12T which works great in it. After not using the truck for a few months, we now cannot get the motor to run. The steering works, the battery is charged but, when the throttle is applied, a red light comes on on the ESC. I have done the "bind" process and re-programmed the ESC. It still won't run. The light on the ESC goes red when applying throttle. Any help would be appreciated.

[Chris Wolfson]

Assuming nothing is bound in the drivetrain and the motor spins freely by hand, it would either be the electronic speed control or the motor. Try to borrow a different motor and see if that works. If not, I'd say the speeder went bad... Fortunately, I think you can find the speeders and motors from the strike/xxx SCT pretty plentiful on e-bay for a good price...

[jeepman57]

i just started in the r/c world i have two cars one of them is the losi strike im not a very good driver but i was wondering how to make the losi grip a little better it slides all over the place can anyone help

[Casper]

Better rear tires always helps. Are you running the stockers?

[meatpupet]

what pinion/spur gearing should i run with a 19t motor

[meatpupet]

i guess this is not a good site to get help with a losi thanks for all the help NOT!!!!!

[Chris Wolfson]

Run the stock spur gear and start around a 22 pinion. Check temps and acceleration. Gear down if the motor temp is very hot. Sorry for the delay and thanks for your patience.

[meatpupet]

thanks for the gearing answer i will try it sunday at the track right now it has 90 spur and a 20 pinion i will go to 22/90 and work from there or should i change my spur gear. i also have a 88 and a 86

[Chris Wolfson]

I think I ran the 86 on my Strike.

[meatpupet]

thanks i will give it a try

[meatpupet]

are you from the ohio area,i saw some pics you posted and the track they are from looks like the track in medina ohio

[RacerST]

I am currently running a 86/24 but my temps are less than 100F. I am using a 17T brushless setup. I am thinking about buying a 26 and 28. It is a little colder right now but I think moving up a few should still be OK.

[Chris Wolfson]

are you from the ohio area,i saw some pics you posted and the track they are from looks like the track in medina ohio

I'm from PA, but have raced in Ohio here and there. I've been to Medina once or twice.

[Doug Darby]

I sure need some help repairing a fellows Strike bind and drive. He broke the main frame and front end parts and thinking he could fix it he bought the parts and got half way through the repair and decided he did not have the skill to finish the repair so he brought it to me and asked if I could fix it for him. I have run losi before and some on road and off road so I said sure.

I have it mostly done other than the servo saver and steering apparatus assembly is kicking my rear end. All I found was an exploded view of the servo saver assembly and my problem is that I cant figure out how the long steel pins that run through the servo saver and the link on the other side of the steering mechanism are captured. On the bottom they seem to fit into a plastic piece that is attached to the frame pan but I can't figure out what holds the pins in place and hence the servo saver and link on the other side from the top.

Maybe I am missing something simple but this is embarrassing at this point. As many cars, trucks, and buggies as I have run over the years with an engineering degree to boot and I am stumped. I was hoping someone could help me. A better assembly drawing would be helpful but I could not find any additional info on the web site that I don't already have.

Thanks in advance for your help... And if I posted this in the wrong forum I would appreciate being pointed in the right direction for some help..

Thanks again..

[Doug Darby]

Figured it out... Ends up I was missing a couple of parts and when I tore it down (again) i found that the pins are captured by the block on the frame and then the parts under the front skid pan mount...

Now I have parts on the way so it should go back together with out too much turmoil.

[skippyg22]

I've been out of R/C's for about 13 years and recently traded my buddy two xbox 360 games for his BND Strike he replaced with an SC10. It was stock when i got it aside from the fancy blue motor plate thing. Two weeks later, it now has the needed Slash parts on it to run Slash front wheels to match the Jconcepts that were mounted in back. The less than attractive stock body has been replaced with a Jconcepts Raptor SVT body (hadn't painted anything for 15 years) and an EZRUN 8.5t brushless combo. All i hear are people knocking this thing, but it is all kinds of fun. As long as the weather holds up, i'll get to run it at the track this weekend. I can't wait. Now I gotta get my RC10T and B2 road worthy again.

http://www.mediafire.com/i/?b9bswa8lc8ux8q9

http://www.mediafire.com/i/?3y3om5m54je2993

[nckmat]

wow you havt read much have ya. the die hard racers will tell ya its junk.

1> its not roar legal.
2> weak dogbones
3> weak out drive ups.
4> weak idler gear
5> bad front shock geometery
6> weak turn buckles
7> i could go on,and on,and on

But i find my strike an awsome truck after you work them kinks out.
yes there is some TLC that needs to be done with the strike, but that just like every other rc car/manufature i know of. And for the price these days 129$ compared to 250-300$ for a slash/blitz/or rc10 you cant go wrong.

I beat the leaving snot out of mine. the track racers cant beleive i beat my truck the way i do and it just keeps coming back to beat them on the weekends. :P but ive done alot of mods to mine to make it a nice jumper/speed demon.

Im now being paid to build my mods into other strikes @ my club. i even have one freind that dumped his strike to get on the xxx-sct bandwagon and now is having me out my mods onto his old strike because its beating the snot out of his new xxx-sct :P

Read any and all info you an find on the strike mods/upgrades and so forth and im sure youll be extremely happy with it.

i can take 12-14ft jumps, reach speeds up to 70mph and all i break these days are front a-arms, 6$ and 2 c-clips later and bak and running. :)

if anyone is interested i an post all my hand crafted/store baught upgrads/mods i have done to make this truck pretty muh bullet proof and still beat your compeditors!

If you are still around it would be great to hear what you have done to keep the Strike going. And how the **** do you get it to corner at speed without rolling or wearing a groove in the body?

[rockdwg]

been in the rc hobby for awhile, but new to Losi. Is the Losi strike the same or close to the sct or any other Losi truck? Is it still a good rig for racing? someone from the local rc club is trying to sell me a strike Roller for $75 would that be good or should i try to go lower with it?

[Casper]

The strike was not Losi's best effort. It is not a bad truck but more of a basher then a racer. Parts will be hard to find as it was discontinued. I would look for a used XXX-SCT if you plan on racing at all.

[rockdwg]

k thank you very much, only reason i was looking at it figured it my be a good beginner one for my kids 10 & 6. figured it would be good for the local rookie class.
Does it share parts with either the Sct or xxx? or are the Sct and xxx the same thing?
cause i see parts that are listed for both the strike and sct? so just curious

[Casper]

k thank you very much, only reason i was looking at it figured it my be a good beginner one for my kids 10 & 6. figured it would be good for the local rookie class.
Does it share parts with either the Sct or xxx? or are the Sct and xxx the same thing?
cause i see parts that are listed for both the strike and sct? so just curious

The strike and the "XXX-SCT" do not share any parts other then screws. I honestly would step up to a XXX-SCT. He will have a lot more fun with it and parts availability will be a big part of that.