XXX-CR 2WD Buggy

[Casper]

If you have any questions or need setup help for the XXX-CR or any XXX buggy. Here is the place to ask. Share setup tips, hop-up modifications that help make you go faster!

[Curtis May]

What is the current setup for the xxxcr?

[Casper]

Here is my setup.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/setuptriplexcr/TripleXCR_Casper_OCRCRaceway2009.pdf

You can find a ton more here.

http://www.petitrc.com/view_news.php?id=5256

Matt should be by soon to post his setup.

[Chris Wolfson]

I pulled Matt's setup from the Nats off of R/C Tech...

Hope it helps...

FRONT:
Toe: 0
Ride Height: 24mm
Camber: -1 degree
Caster: stock
Sway bar: no
Oil: 27.5wt
Piston: 56
Spring: Orange
Limiters: none
Spindle Height: bottom
Axle Spacer: narrow
Steering Type: Bellcranks (**outer hole)
Bump Steer: none
Camber Link: 3-B with 3 washers
Shock Location: 2-Outside
VLA: Long
Front Wing: no
Notes: Unscrew front shock bottom 3 full turns

REAR:
Toe: stock
Pivot Support: 3 degrees (.020" washer under front of block) (** XXX pivot, BK2 arms and hubs)
Ride Height: 23mm
Camber: -1.5 degrees
Rear Hub Spacing: Middle
Driveshafts/Outdrives: steel/steel
swaybar: no
Oil: 20wt
Piston: 57
Spring: White (1.8 rate)
Limiters: .060"
Camber Link: 2-A
Shock Location: 2-Inside
VLA: short

Wing Position/mount: Forward/middle
Body & wing type: XXX-CR
Losi 5000mah LiPo
Battery Position: forward
Notes: 1/4 oz weight on each side of steering servo, 3/4 oz in front bulkhead + alum front bulk.

[Curtis May]

Thanks Chris...Hey how do i get junior member from under my name?..Thanks

[Dan Ross]

I pulled Matt's setup from the Nats off of R/C Tech...

Hope it helps...

FRONT:
Toe: 0
Ride Height: 24mm
Camber: -1 degree
Caster: stock
Sway bar: no
Oil: 27.5wt
Piston: 56
Spring: Orange
Limiters: none
Spindle Height: bottom
Axle Spacer: narrow
Steering Type: Bellcranks (**outer hole)
Bump Steer: none
Camber Link: 3-B with 3 washers
Shock Location: 2-Outside
VLA: Long
Front Wing: no
Notes: Unscrew front shock bottom 3 full turns

REAR:
Toe: stock
Pivot Support: 3 degrees (.020" washer under front of block) (** XXX pivot, BK2 arms and hubs)
Ride Height: 23mm
Camber: -1.5 degrees
Rear Hub Spacing: Middle
Driveshafts/Outdrives: steel/steel
swaybar: no
Oil: 20wt
Piston: 57
Spring: White (1.8 rate)
Limiters: .060"
Camber Link: 2-A
Shock Location: 2-Inside
VLA: short

Wing Position/mount: Forward/middle
Body & wing type: XXX-CR
Losi 5000mah LiPo
Battery Position: forward
Notes: 1/4 oz weight on each side of steering servo, 3/4 oz in front bulkhead + alum front bulk.

i've been running this set up for a month or so now, it's really good.

[Curtis May]

Ok cool,i just want to make sure about the weight, i know alot of people are using a crazy amount of weight to make of the difference from NiMH to lipo,just making sure that all the weight Matt is using is the wieght in the front...Thanks

[Chris Wolfson]

Curtis -

That's it for the weight. Matt runs the car pretty light.

For awhile it was only a 1/4 oz. on each side of the servo.

As far as the Jr. Member tag - mine said that for a day or so until they got around to changing it for me. They did it automatically. I'm sure they will get to it soon.

[Curtis May]

For those who are running the Xcelorin systems,i need to know a good starting point for timming,drag brake,etc. with a 7.5 motor...I'll be running on a high bite tight indoor track for the most part...Thanks

[Casper]

For those who are running the Xcelorin systems,i need to know a good starting point for timming,drag brake,etc. with a 7.5 motor...I'll be running on a high bite tight indoor track for the most part...Thanks

I tend to like a decent amount of drag break. I run in the 15-20%. If you are running in a tight track keep the timing in the lower ranges as this will give you better bottom end. Running lower timing with modifieds is generally a good practice as well as it keeps motor and ESC temps lower. If you want to go faster just gear up a little more. The stock guys tend to use the higher timing settings more as they usually push there motors a little harder but with the lower current draw the ESC's don't tend to get as hot. With the mod motors high timing can get the ESC and the motor hot so the lower motor timing can keep everything cooler.

Hope this make sense.

[Curtis May]

Thanks Casper...That helps

[Matt Chambers]

Hello everyone.... My Nats setup was posted above.

Also, here is a link to my standard XXX-CR setup.
http://losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/XXX_CR_MattChambers.pdf

Matt

[Curtis May]

Matt,was the nats track a high bite track or loose?

[Matt Chambers]

Curtis,
The Nationals track was dusty and loose. It also broke apart a bit making it pretty bumpy. I can't take credit for that setup though... Dyno Dan was the brains behind that one :)

[Chris Wolfson]

Curtis,
The Nationals track was dusty and loose. It also broke apart a bit making it pretty bumpy. I can't take credit for that setup though... Dyno Dan was the brains behind that one :)

Matt - what kind of changes would you make for a smoother outdoor track that doesn't break up and get as bumpy?

[Matt Chambers]

The only things I would change would be maybe going a tad thicker in rear oil to maybe 25wt and maybe going to 3-B rear link. I experimented with the rear link a lot and it seemed like the 2-A was better on the bumpy track in that it didn't catch as many ruts/bumps. However when I drove the same link on a smooth track it seemed a bit "floaty" and the rear end didn't want to take a set into the turn as well.

[toybreaker]

thanks guys! these threads will be so valuable just getting a peak into your conversations.

[Showtime]

I've seen a few setups that say use XXX pivot and BK2 rear arms. Could anyone expand on this a little more. I have an alum pivot block from (I believe) a XXX. How can I tell which is which. Same with the arms. How do the arms and block differ. And also, what is the effect of changing this?

Thanks!


PS: Also, what about running this block on the XXXTCR?

[Casper]

The XXX-TCR block is the XXX block. The CR block is noticably wider. The narrower block and longer arms make the car more stable and is better in high traction smooth tracks. The CR rear end is better on bumpy tracks but that is not what a lot of the big races are run on. Most of them are smooth blue groove type tracks that the XXX with BK2 arms makes the rear end more stable.

[NM8T]

Hello there Casper. I have a BK2 and changed the front out to the VLA arms and gonna do the rear since i got a set extra with the buggy. I am guessing the rear pivot blocks will work with this setup. It has cvd's. thanks.

[Tyreman]

Casper have any of you tried the xxxcr with the atomic conversion, as this is what the uk team are running.

Here are some pictures of my car.

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/euros2009/day2photos/OOP_7629.html
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/euros2009/day2photos/OOP_7629.html

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/euros2009/day3photos/OOP_9128.html
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/euros2009/day3photos/OOP_9128.html

[Casper]

The BK2 had VLA already? What tranny do you have. Grey case or black case?

[NM8T]

It has the black trans on it now but also have the grey one.Is one better than the other . I guess it most be just a xxx. 3 have almost all the parts to convert it and getting the pivot block and rear blocks today.

[Reid Glover]

I pulled Matt's setup from the Nats off of R/C Tech...

Hope it helps...

FRONT:
Toe: 0
Ride Height: 24mm
Camber: -1 degree
Caster: stock
Sway bar: no
Oil: 27.5wt
Piston: 56
Spring: Orange
Limiters: none
Spindle Height: bottom
Axle Spacer: narrow
Steering Type: Bellcranks (**outer hole)
Bump Steer: none
Camber Link: 3-B with 3 washers
Shock Location: 2-Outside
VLA: Long
Front Wing: no
Notes: Unscrew front shock bottom 3 full turns

REAR:
Toe: stock
Pivot Support: 3 degrees (.020" washer under front of block) (** XXX pivot, BK2 arms and hubs)
Ride Height: 23mm
Camber: -1.5 degrees
Rear Hub Spacing: Middle
Driveshafts/Outdrives: steel/steel
swaybar: no
Oil: 20wt
Piston: 57
Spring: White (1.8 rate)
Limiters: .060"
Camber Link: 2-A
Shock Location: 2-Inside
VLA: short

Wing Position/mount: Forward/middle
Body & wing type: XXX-CR
Losi 5000mah LiPo
Battery Position: forward
Notes: 1/4 oz weight on each side of steering servo, 3/4 oz in front bulkhead + alum front bulk.

The front shock mounting position may have been misprinted..... MC? I think that it maybe 3-outside, instead of the 2-outside that was posted?

[Showtime]

The XXX-TCR block is the XXX block. The CR block is noticably wider. The narrower block and longer arms make the car more stable and is better in high traction smooth tracks. The CR rear end is better on bumpy tracks but that is not what a lot of the big races are run on. Most of them are smooth blue groove type tracks that the XXX with BK2 arms makes the rear end more stable.

Ok, thanks, I see now. So when running the XXX block, you would need BK2 arms, and would this require a XXX pivot plate or will the XXXCR plate work?

Thanks!

[Reid Glover]

Ok, thanks, I see now. So when running the XXX block, you would need BK2 arms, and would this require a XXX pivot plate or will the XXXCR plate work?

Thanks!

Both plates will work. The only XXX-* plate that won't is the one found on the BK2.

Edit: Even the XXXT t-plates work, so the MF2/BK2 t-plates are the only ones that won't work....

[Casper]

Ok, thanks, I see now. So when running the XXX block, you would need BK2 arms, and would this require a XXX pivot plate or will the XXXCR plate work?

Thanks!

The XXX and CR t-plate are the same. The pivot that attaches the arms is different. To use the BK2 arms you need the XXX pivot or the rear end gets too wide and you are illegal and the bones won't fit in the outdrives anymore.

GenII stuff only works with GenII stuff. T-plate, rear pivot supports, tranny all work together you cannot mix any of that with the GenI tranny.

About any combo the XXX, XXXBK1, XXXCR rear ends will work. (you cannot use VLA hubs with none VLA hubs but you can use none VLA hubs with VLA arms.)

Bascially we have made a XXX rear end with the VLA. The CR rear hubs give us verticle ball studs so we can adjust roll centers. Basically we have gone back to the original rear end but added a lot of adjustability to the car.

[Showtime]

The XXX and CR t-plate are the same. The pivot that attaches the arms is different. To use the BK2 arms you need the XXX pivot or the rear end gets too wide and you are illegal and the bones won't fit in the outdrives anymore.

GenII stuff only works with GenII stuff. T-plate, rear pivot supports, tranny all work together you cannot mix any of that with the GenI tranny.

About any combo the XXX, XXXBK1, XXXCR rear ends will work. (you cannot use VLA hubs with none VLA hubs but you can use none VLA hubs with VLA arms.)

Bascially we have made a XXX rear end with the VLA. The CR rear hubs give us verticle ball studs so we can adjust roll centers. Basically we have gone back to the original rear end but added a lot of adjustability to the car.

Sounds good, I'll have to try it.

Is there an easy way to tell the BK2 arms from other XXX arms? (just sifting through my boxes of Losi parts collected over many years, wondering if I already have some or if I have to go buy them...) Did the BK2 have only 2 mounting holes? And were they VLA?

[Heavy B]

Casper have any of you tried the xxxcr with the atomic conversion, as this is what the uk team are running.

Here are some pictures of my car.

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/euros2009/day2photos/OOP_7629.html
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/euros2009/day2photos/OOP_7629.html

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/euros2009/day3photos/OOP_9128.html
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/euros2009/day3photos/OOP_9128.html


I've tried to get one of those, but Jonathan hasn't been able to arrange it yet. Are you using the new version tranny, or the original?

[Casper]

Sounds good, I'll have to try it.

Is there an easy way to tell the BK2 arms from other XXX arms? (just sifting through my boxes of Losi parts collected over many years, wondering if I already have some or if I have to go buy them...) Did the BK2 have only 2 mounting holes? And were they VLA?

BK2 arms are have the VLA in the outer. LOSA9800

http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo/LOS/450/LOSA9800-450.jpg

[Curtis May]

Casper what about the question that was asked about Matt's setup.Is the front shock mounted location correct or is it 3-outside?Thanks

[Casper]

I am not sure. I know Matt likes the outside on the arm but can't remember the top location. I don't run his setup so I don't remeber off the top of my head. I have it in an e-mail at home.

[Dan Ross]

i pretty much run his nats set up, and i run 3-outside.

[Curtis May]

Thanks Casper,maybe Matt will answer that one...i think i'm going to start out on your setup the first weekend out with the car...Thanks again..

[mr chop]

how do you guys run the outside hole on the shock on the rear arm the cars got zero down travl. :eek:

[Casper]

I don't run the outside hole on the rear arm. The buggy has a ton of rear travel. I run #2 inside on the arm. Almost too much droop. You can always unscrew the bottom shock eyelet a a couple turns.

[NM8T]

Okay i want make sure i have this correct lol getting confused. I have a grey trannie and rear plate for the bk2 sitting in a parts bin. Gonna mount those up and sway in now for the rear pivot i need to get the XXX-cr stuff? i saw on your setup that you say a xxx-tcr will work is that correct. I also gonna do the rear tower. Sorry for all the newb questions.

[Casper]

If you are starting with the BK2 rear end with the gray tranny you need to replace everything behind the shock tower but the arms!

If you already have the CR going to the XXX rear end only requires the rear pivot and arms.

[NM8T]

ok no problem. Time to make a parts list.Those that include the tranny? I have a black case one and the grey one that was attached to the bk2 rear plate. thanks for all the help.

[Casper]

Casper what about the question that was asked about Matt's setup.Is the front shock mounted location correct or is it 3-outside?Thanks

His standard setup was 2-outside. Not sure about his nats setup.

[kevin starr]

you use the black tranny the grey one is bk2

[Casper]

Kevin-- The gray tranny is for the BK2 and is also know as the GenII tranny

[Matt Sunderlage]

Lots of tasty info here thanks alot guys. Going to have to dust off the CR.;)

What type of a track would you actually use the CR piviot and arms?

[Casper]

The bumpier the track the better the CR will work.

[Matt Sunderlage]

The bumpier the track the better the CR will work.

hmmm.. that makes sense then because the local indoor track I race at is rather smooth.

Going to have to try that set-up.

[Matt Chambers]

This may be a bit late but on my nats setup I ran 3-outside. The difference between top shock mount locations isn't huge. More or less changing the top shock mount will change how the steering "feels". Basically #1 or 2 locations will feel like they steer smoother into the corner and have a lil more steering exiting the corner. #3 or 4 will be more aggressive entering the corner. I feel like moving the shock in or out 1 hole is similar to going to a slightly softer or stiffer spring rate. Hope this makes sense.

[Briguy]

I pulled Matt's setup from the Nats off of R/C Tech...

Hope it helps...

FRONT:
Toe: 0
Ride Height: 24mm
Camber: -1 degree
Caster: stock
Sway bar: no
Oil: 27.5wt
Piston: 56
Spring: Orange
Limiters: none
Spindle Height: bottom
Axle Spacer: narrow
Steering Type: Bellcranks (**outer hole)
Bump Steer: none
Camber Link: 3-B with 3 washers
Shock Location: 2-Outside
VLA: Long
Front Wing: no
Notes: Unscrew front shock bottom 3 full turns

REAR:
Toe: stock
Pivot Support: 3 degrees (.020" washer under front of block) (** XXX pivot, BK2 arms and hubs)
Ride Height: 23mm
Camber: -1.5 degrees
Rear Hub Spacing: Middle
Driveshafts/Outdrives: steel/steel
swaybar: no
Oil: 20wt
Piston: 57
Spring: White (1.8 rate)
Limiters: .060"
Camber Link: 2-A
Shock Location: 2-Inside
VLA: short

Wing Position/mount: Forward/middle
Body & wing type: XXX-CR
Losi 5000mah LiPo
Battery Position: forward
Notes: 1/4 oz weight on each side of steering servo, 3/4 oz in front bulkhead + alum front bulk.

What track conditions was this used for ?

[jrxt]

Can someone tell me if there is some kind of bennefit with running aluminum pivot blocks in the CR Buggy or T

Thanks
PS very cool forum

[kevin starr]

hey casper , i thought i said it right. grey is bk2 , or gen ii and black gen 1 /cr

[Casper]

JRXT-- Alum pivots are stronger (the plastic parts are not problem areas) but I use them for weight as well.

[Dan Ross]

What track conditions was this used for ?

i've been using on medium to low bite, and it's really good. only thing i changed was 22.5wt oil in the rear.

[jrxt]

Casper Thanks so much,

Casper if you use them for weight in ozs. how many would the front block be.

[Casper]

To be honest I don't know how much more the alum one is. I wish I had a spare as I would weigh them for you since I have a scale now. I would add a 1/4 weight if you are running the plastic. This should be close.

[Matt Chambers]

Briguy- the track was low to medium bite. Hard packed with a fine layer of dust on top. Also pretty bumpy.

[mr chop]

what spare parts should i have on hand?

[Briguy]

Thanks Matt !


Chop , I keep at least one set of spindles/carriers , front arms , shock towers , hardware assortment , and a spare wing . I seem to go through spindles and carriers the most , but that is probably because I am no where the driver I was 10 years ago .

[Briguy]

What effect does it have when putting the XXX rear pivot with BK2 arms and hubs on the buggy ? Isn`t the arms the same , just different material ? Will the XXX pivot bolt up to the CR T-plate ?

[RcWorkShopp]

There is a lot of information here and it's very easy to get confused.

I have been running my XXX-CR for the first time this season with a Novak 10.5. The track I run at is smooth with a lot of turns. Most of the time you need to run step pins with hard foam.

When I built the car I went box setup. I had to install red springs in rear and silver in front and I think 35 oil. I can handle the jumps much better and even carry more speed in the turns. My question is what adj can I do to take the turns sharper. When I go into a turn it's like I am making a wide turn and take up the whole area. There are guys that are whipping right around. Some guys the own the B4 say Losi is better on rough tracks but B4 are better on smooth tracks with better steering. I don't know. But what can I do to help myself turn better and faster.

Sorry for the long post.

[Chris Wolfson]

What effect does it have when putting the XXX rear pivot with BK2 arms and hubs on the buggy ? Isn`t the arms the same , just different material ? Will the XXX pivot bolt up to the CR T-plate ?

Bri - alot of guys like the feel of that rear end - it would be an older rear end as far as geometry goes. The t-plate on the CR is the same. You just need the XXX pivot and the bk2 arms and hubs. The material is different and the size of the arms is different. The CR pivot is wider, so the arms are shorter.... Watch mixing and matching because you can end up with a bunch of parts that don't fit or are not legal...

[Chris Wolfson]

There is a lot of information here and it's very easy to get confused.

I have been running my XXX-CR for the first time this season with a Novak 10.5. The track I run at is smooth with a lot of turns. Most of the time you need to run step pins with hard foam.

When I built the car I went box setup. I had to install red springs in rear and silver in front and I think 35 oil. I can handle the jumps much better and even carry more speed in the turns. My question is what adj can I do to take the turns sharper. When I go into a turn it's like I am making a wide turn and take up the whole area. There are guys that are whipping right around. Some guys the own the B4 say Losi is better on rough tracks but B4 are better on smooth tracks with better steering. I don't know. But what can I do to help myself turn better and faster.

Sorry for the long post.

I'm thinking you first need to make sure you have the correct tires - front especially. Tires are generally 80% of your setup. They make a big difference. Make sure you are running the same tires as the guys whose cars are "whipping" right around. If you are doing that, and still having problems, then we need to look at your setup...

[mr chop]

ok so i try reading the back the book! and that has made no since to me at all it was to confusing!

i have a xxx-cr with the bk2 rear end on it!

what dose moving the vla pins in and out on the front and rear the car do?

[Matt Sunderlage]

I believe moving the pins out makes the suspension softer and moving them in makes the suspension stiffer. I think I read that in a previous post......

rc workshop: to make the Losi car "whip through the turns" at my home track(I'm essentially the only driver who still runs a Losi every one else went to AE) I had to shorten the front camber link and go to the bellcranks instead of the rack. Also be sure to see what tires they have because that is huge.

[RcWorkShopp]

I was reading that in the manual and I also made a few small changes. I put the stock front tires on to see how she does for next race. We are having a challenge in to weeks that is two days of racing so I have to wait. I am running with a Lipo battery with no weight do you think that could be some of my problem?

[Heavy B]

I was reading that in the manual and I also made a few small changes. I put the stock front tires on to see how she does for next race. We are having a challenge in to weeks that is two days of racing so I have to wait. I am running with a Lipo battery with no weight do you think that could be some of my problem?

I run 1/2 oz under the front bumper and another 1 oz behind the battery just to make legal weight. A lot of other drivers run even more weight for the stability. The lightweight cars don't seem to like a lot of pack, it just throws the car around. So, the addition weight helps with that. I can't believe your legal with no weight added, but I run a 3200 mah battery and they are really lightweight.

[RcWorkShopp]

I run 1/2 oz under the front bumper and another 1 oz behind the battery just to make legal weight. A lot of other drivers run even more weight for the stability. The lightweight cars don't seem to like a lot of pack, it just throws the car around. So, the addition weight helps with that. I can't believe your legal with no weight added, but I run a 3200 mah battery and they are really lightweight.

At our club we follow most of ROAR rules but not on the weight.

[discostu]

hey fellas

ive had a cr for a few weeks now im racing on polished floor at the moment just looking for some setup ideas.

stu

[Casper]

What tires you running? I ran on polished floors once. Traction was a nightmare. Look over some setups for loose dirt and start from there. I would soften up the rear end some with a lighter rear spring and some lighter oil to get the car to squat and roll more to try and get some traction. That is unless you guys have found tires that stick to that stuff.

[JonnyWachter]

Does anyone know where I can get a set of 0.5 deg xxx hubs?

[Matt Sunderlage]

At our club we follow most of ROAR rules but not on the weight.
We run ROAR wieght rules where I race.
I've added a brass plate that adds 45 grams under the battery and also added 1/2oz on the front of the bulkhead. Adding the wieght is huge!!!

[Casper]

You guys must all have light lipos. I have was running my car with only 3/4 oz addes (21g) and it was making weight with the losi 4400 battery.

Also when putting the BK2 arms on the rear of the CR you can still use the CR rear hubs!!!!!!

[mr chop]

man you guys make my head hurt i thought nitro was complicated

[gsrman4885]

I just got a used xxxcr of fleabay, I was wondering what gearing I should use with a novak GTB w/ 6.5 velocity motor.

[fastinfastout]

a 6.5 is undriveable in a 2wd

go for a 8.5 or 10.5

[Matt Chambers]

gsrman4885- If your for sure going to run a 6.5 try 21-22/78. But you'd probably be better off with 7.5 or 8.5

[fastinfastout]

I tried the matt chambers set up, but still think its not much better then standard kit set up.

Can someone give me a set up that will get the CR to turn, and hold its line, like a B4?

[grapejuice]

I tried the matt chambers set up, but still think its not much better then standard kit set up.

Can someone give me a set up that will get the CR to turn, and hold its line, like a B4?

Takes more then just the set-up sometimes.....what kind of track are you running on and what tires are you using?

[Casper]

What motor class you running?

[discostu]

What tires you running? I ran on polished floors once. Traction was a nightmare. Look over some setups for loose dirt and start from there. I would soften up the rear end some with a lighter rear spring and some lighter oil to get the car to squat and roll more to try and get some traction. That is unless you guys have found tires that stick to that stuff.

we run shu yellow full spikes to be honest softning the car doesn't work is it obsorbs all the energy in the weight transfer to be honest im just wanna bounce some ideas my 4wd drive is pretty unstopable the 2wd drive is ok could be better.

[fastinfastout]

Takes more then just the set-up sometimes.....what kind of track are you running on and what tires are you using?
med traction hard packed clay, twisty, lots of 90 and more degree turns. Majority of drivers using x2000 and holeshots, 8175 fronts

What motor class you running?
stock at the moment

[RcWorkShopp]

I tried the matt chambers set up, but still think its not much better then standard kit set up.

Can someone give me a set up that will get the CR to turn, and hold its line, like a B4?

Join the club. I am having the same problem. I just made some changes to mine and waiting until the weekend to see if they helped. Check the back of the manual it tells you what every adj you can make and why.

[Casper]

Try out my setup.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/setuptriplexcr/TripleXCR_Casper_OCRCRaceway2009.pdf

I run super stock and I feel my setups are a little better for stock classes where you don't need all the rear traction for mod motors.

If you are running pink x-2000, try pink fronts. I like the X-3000's as well. They have a little shorter side wall which I feel make the tire more consistant. The X-2000 is better in bumpy conditions but if your track is smooth then the 3000's might have a more consistant feel. It really comes down to personal preference though. I know poeple who still like 2000's but I like the 3's.

Are you running BL and if so what do you have it greared at?

[RcWorkShopp]

I myself run a Novak BL 10.5 I just changed my gearing 78/23. The car takes off nice with out alot of wheel spin or crazy speed. My first problem with my steering was I was pushing real bad with the stock front and rear tires.
I put pin spike in the front and that has helped. I have a set of Panther Lynx ties going to give them a try. WIth all the rain we had this year the track has been very damp and eveybody is running step pins in the rear and doing very well.

[Heavy B]

I tried the matt chambers set up, but still think its not much better then standard kit set up.

Can someone give me a set up that will get the CR to turn, and hold its line, like a B4?


Rear
Try the short arms with 0 deg pivot add 1 washer to the front for 1 deg of anti-squat. Use 3-D with 4 washers on the link. Hubs forward. Shocks 3-middle. VLA short.

Front
25 deg blocks. 3-B with 0 washers. Rack. Shocks 2-middle. VLA long.

[fastinfastout]

thanks for the set up guys! Will try them when we get some consistent weather.

by the way, I have some xxx front arms, and the normal cr arms. Are the xxx arms the same specs, besides the material?

[fastinfastout]

I myself run a Novak BL 10.5 I just changed my gearing 78/23. The car takes off nice with out alot of wheel spin or crazy speed. My first problem with my steering was I was pushing real bad with the stock front and rear tires.
I put pin spike in the front and that has helped. I have a set of Panther Lynx ties going to give them a try. WIth all the rain we had this year the track has been very damp and eveybody is running step pins in the rear and doing very well.
are you like way undergeared with the 78/23?

I thought you should be up around the 78/26-28 for a 10.5

Just about to put a 10.5 in mine, so any input to this would be appreciative!:)

[fastinfastout]

Rear
Try the short arms with 0 deg pivot add 1 washer to the front for 1 deg of anti-squat. Use 3-D with 4 washers on the link. Hubs forward. Shocks 3-middle. VLA short.

Front
25 deg blocks. 3-B with 0 washers. Rack. Shocks 2-middle. VLA long.

suprised to see the rack with your setup.

I assumed the bellcrank was the way to go!

will find out as I broke the rack today:)

[fastinfastout]

Try out my setup.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/setuptriplexcr/TripleXCR_Casper_OCRCRaceway2009.pdf

I run super stock and I feel my setups are a little better for stock classes where you don't need all the rear traction for mod motors.

If you are running pink x-2000, try pink fronts. I like the X-3000's as well. They have a little shorter side wall which I feel make the tire more consistant. The X-2000 is better in bumpy conditions but if your track is smooth then the 3000's might have a more consistant feel. It really comes down to personal preference though. I know poeple who still like 2000's but I like the 3's.

Are you running BL and if so what do you have it greared at?
im running 17.5 brushless, geared at 65/35

moving onto a 10.5 now though.

x2000 reds seem to be 'the' tire to use, dont like the 3000's though, less side bite, for me anyway.

[RcWorkShopp]

are you like way undergeared with the 78/23?

I thought you should be up around the 78/26-28 for a 10.5

Just about to put a 10.5 in mine, so any input to this would be appreciative!:)

My temps are low at 103. The track is not that big it has alot of quick truns so top speed is not realy needed. We have one long section but I do very well with keeping up with guys running 8.5 Novaks. Check out our track and you will see. DirtRunners.com

[Heavy B]

suprised to see the rack with your setup.

I assumed the bellcrank was the way to go!

will find out as I broke the rack today:)

That's my 1/10th scale track set-up. I have a different set-up for 1/8th scale tracks, but both use the rack. I like the aggressive feel of the rack over the bellcrank.

[Y2KGTP]

What are some good spares for the buggy, besides the arms front and rear? I just picked up one used and wanted to get a few items.

This buggy may get reconfigured similar to my truck as well :D

[Casper]

im running 17.5 brushless, geared at 65/35

moving onto a 10.5 now though.

x2000 reds seem to be 'the' tire to use, dont like the 3000's though, less side bite, for me anyway.

Are you runing indoor or out door? That stock gearing is pretty tall for hot weather so be careful. You running the turbo hub or how did you get the 65 on the car?

Like I said people have favorites in the x-2 vs x-3 tires. I don't like how tall the X-2000 are. I figured out ways to make them work for me but I feel the tire has too much side wall flex but again preference.

Y2KGTP-- I would have a rear t-plate just in case. A spare set of rear tie rods and ball cups just in case.

The car has been really durable for me. Really have not broken much. I will find a track everyonce in a while with a bad pipe on a high speed corner that can take out caster blocks but it is pretty rare.

[fastinfastout]

Are you runing indoor or out door? That stock gearing is pretty tall for hot weather so be careful. You running the turbo hub or how did you get the 65 on the car?

Like I said people have favorites in the x-2 vs x-3 tires. I don't like how tall the X-2000 are. I figured out ways to make them work for me but I feel the tire has too much side wall flex but again preference.


I run outdoor only.

yeh I'm always temping to check it runs below 150f. The gearing might seem tall, but im actually pretty conservative compared to some who run 1 or 2 more teeth on the pinion!

and yes, im using the turbo hub:)

[Y2KGTP]

Y2KGTP-- I would have a rear t-plate just in case. A spare set of rear tie rods and ball cups just in case.

The car has been really durable for me. Really have not broken much. I will find a track everyonce in a while with a bad pipe on a high speed corner that can take out caster blocks but it is pretty rare.

Thanks....I have been thinking of getting the graphite T-plate for my truck as well. Might get a set of caster blocks just in case....

[Casper]

I run outdoor only.

yeh I'm always temping to check it runs below 150f. The gearing might seem tall, but im actually pretty conservative compared to some who run 1 or 2 more teeth on the pinion!

and yes, im using the turbo hub:)

Really you are are about the same as those guys since you have a 2.43 tranny and the other buggies all have 2.6 trannies.

As long as your temps stay there you are good. I was 34/72 in my buggy for the shootout but outside temps were around 100 so my motors were starting hot! :p

[fastinfastout]

2.43....ah yeh I forgot about that.

been running the b4 and rb5 mostly,

just jumping back aboard the losi lately

[Showtime]

Are you runing indoor or out door? That stock gearing is pretty tall for hot weather so be careful. You running the turbo hub or how did you get the 65 on the car?


What is a "turbo hub"?

Is 65 the smallest spur for the xxxcr?

[fastinfastout]

turbo hub is an adapter which allows you to use spurs without the slipper assembly. I simply bolt the spur onto the adapter with 2 screws, and thats it!

60 is the smallest spur I have used, but 65-72 would be the preferred range.

[Showtime]

turbo hub is an adapter which allows you to use spurs without the slipper assembly. I simply bolt the spur onto the adapter with 2 screws, and thats it!

60 is the smallest spur I have used, but 65-72 would be the preferred range.


Ahhh! I actually have that, but didn't know it what it was called, obviously!

Thanks!

[Casper]

Due to the losi internal ratio I was able to get down in the 5.0 FDR with the AE 72 spur and slipper pads. Still used the Losi plates. If you switch between 17.5 and 13.5 this may be a good option for your guys. The B4's and RB5's of the world do not really have this option as they need to go smaller on the spurs to get good 17.5 gearing! ;) The bad news is I am not a fan of the AE spur gear. It is holding up fine but kind of noisy.

[underway]

What is the pitch of the spur/pinion gears and what range is recommended( i.e. 18-25 tooth) to have in the arsenal for the xxx-cr and xxx-t cr

[Casper]

Offroad uses 48 pitch gears.

The range of gears depend on the classes you plan to run and the type of motor. Brushless motors use much tall gears then what we used to run with brushed motors.

[Y2KGTP]

This might help a bit to get you in range...

Spur/pinion x final drive ratio....

http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/brushless/br_gearing.html

[Casper]

Although that chart is a great place to start I feel most of there recommendations are 2-3 teeth too low. It is always better to start low and work your way up though as gearing too high can fry stuff!:eek:

[Y2KGTP]

Although that chart is a great place to start I feel most of there recommendations are 2-3 teeth too low. It is always better to start low and work your way up though as gearing too high can fry stuff!:eek:

Well, 2-3 teeth low is prob better than 2-3 too high, at least. :D

[Casper]

I totally agree. I stated that. My point was be prepared to have gears to go higher! ;) Keep an eye on motor and ESC temps. You don't want the motor above the 140-160 range. 180 is the upper limit but not a good place to keep it at.

[Y2KGTP]

I totally agree. I stated that. My point was be prepared to have gears to go higher! ;) Keep an eye on motor and ESC temps. You don't want the motor above the 140-160 range. 180 is the upper limit but not a good place to keep it at.

Glad I got a DX3S now to have the temp sensor on the motor. Cool toy to have... :D

[Matt Chambers]

Although that chart is a great place to start I feel most of there recommendations are 2-3 teeth too low. It is always better to start low and work your way up though as gearing too high can fry stuff!:eek:

When I started running the Xcelorin system I noticed I could gear 1-2 teeth higher than with the novak system. Power was better and temps not too high.

[Mike Thomas]

2.43....ah yeh I forgot about that.

been running the b4 and rb5 mostly,

just jumping back aboard the losi lately

Welcome Back!

[Casper]

I have not run novak stuff but the xcelorin stuff runs stronger then my SP stuff did. More punch that is for sure.

[neondreamz8]

I have not run novak stuff but the xcelorin stuff runs stronger then my SP stuff did. More punch that is for sure.

ive ran alot abd love the power ond punch of my xcelorin 3.5.... down side is you can say later to your lipo cause you have to pay a price for power:D

[mr chop]

the worest car i ever driven in my life i dont think adam could make this thing look good!

i have a new cr with bk rear arms and hubs on it!

the problem it has zero steering to the point that it hit the other tube be4 it turns!
and no be4 you ask it not a push! it a will not turn!

low speed turning is noting it wont evan make a 8 foot cricle between the tubes! the servos new servo saver tight enought and i try ever set front tires jcon proline and losi has!

so tell me what to do?

[Justme]

Hey Casper,

While in the gearing train of thought, what is the difference/effect between running a XXX-CR, stock brushed motor with a 72/24(3.0 ratio, 7.29 FDR) vs a 84/28(3.0 ratio, 7.29 FDR)? Same FDR, but how would this effect the speed? I am trying to figure the difference in pinion sizing, not the ratio for now.

Thanks.

[discostu]

it sounds like your setup is way off the mark i run my standard xxxcr on a dusty wooden floor running with the 4wd and was only 0.5 sec a lap slower i felt the car doesnt have enough ackerman angle and in the standard postion it pushed like a dog on lino through the sweepers also i was running a high and short front top link and 75grams of weight up front 50grams in front of servo 15grams in front bulkhead and 10grams above steering rack. i will post full setup soon when i have more time.

stu

[Casper]

the worest car i ever driven in my life i dont think adam could make this thing look good!

i have a new cr with bk rear arms and hubs on it!

the problem it has zero steering to the point that it hit the other tube be4 it turns!
and no be4 you ask it not a push! it a will not turn!

low speed turning is noting it wont evan make a 8 foot cricle between the tubes! the servos new servo saver tight enought and i try ever set front tires jcon proline and losi has!

so tell me what to do?

What setup are you running. What kind of track and what tires you have on it. There are lots of ways to get steering out of these cars. Don't write it off yet unless you put some effort into the setup. Once I got my buggy dialed in I just change tires for conditions and the buggy works great. Tell us your starting point and we can help you get dialed in! ;) Also have you set your steering end points to make sure you have full throttle throw left and right?

Hey Casper,

While in the gearing train of thought, what is the difference/effect between running a XXX-CR, stock brushed motor with a 72/24(3.0 ratio, 7.29 FDR) vs a 84/28(3.0 ratio, 7.29 FDR)? Same FDR, but how would this effect the speed? I am trying to figure the difference in pinion sizing, not the ratio for now.

Thanks.

If you have the same FDR then there should be no change in speed. Is what you do though is move the motor. The 72 spur will move the motor forward. The 84 spur will move the motor back. Motor forward is usually best as it keeps the weight of the motor more in line with the axles. Moving the motor too far back can make the cars rear end feel like a pendulum and swing around in the corners. The car should feel a little more nimble with the motor forward.

[mr chop]

What setup are you running. What kind of track and what tires you have on it. There are lots of ways to get steering out of these cars. Don't write it off yet unless you put some effort into the setup. Once I got my buggy dialed in I just change tires for conditions and the buggy works great. Tell us your starting point and we can help you get dialed in! ;) Also have you set your steering end points to make sure you have full throttle throw left and right?



If you have the same FDR then there should be no change in speed. Is what you do though is move the motor. The 72 spur will move the motor forward. The 84 spur will move the motor back. Motor forward is usually best as it keeps the weight of the motor more in line with the axles. Moving the motor too far back can make the cars rear end feel like a pendulum and swing around in the corners. The car should feel a little more nimble with the motor forward.
casper i dont feel like typing it all again cheek rctech

[discostu]

no helping some people your on your own

[mr chop]

no helping some people your on your own
it fine i really dont care i am over it at this point worst 300 dollor for a car i ever spent

[RcWorkShopp]

I know it can be a pain trying to get the setup right but to me it's part of the fun of having a RC car. Just put it aside for a few days let your head clear.
Put the buggy back to stock spec and go from there. Make one adj at a time and see if it helped or hurt what your trying to do. If you make more then one adj at a time you will just get all messed up again.

As for retyping your setup just go to the page where your setup is and copy then past to this forum.

Good luck

[mr chop]

I know it can be a pain trying to get the setup right but to me it's part of the fun of having a RC car. Just put it aside for a few days let your head clear.
Put the buggy back to stock spec and go from there. Make one adj at a time and see if it helped or hurt what your trying to do. If you make more then one adj at a time you will just get all messed up again.

As for retyping your setup just go to the page where your setup is and copy then past to this forum.

Good luck
yeah but there more then just one post there two page stuff about i not really good at expling what wrong with but my buddy did for me as he drove it to

[Justme]

Mr Chop,

Instead of bashing a great car, and while you are on the appropriate web site, look up the set up sheets for the stock specs on your car. I would start there and like suggested above, Reset your car to stock and try it. I too had a car that I could not get to handle to my liking, but some one else drove and it worked out to being my driving that needed to change. It's a toy car, don't let it stress you to death!

Best of luck!

[RcWorkShopp]

yeah but there more then just one post there two page stuff about i not really good at explain what wrong with but my buddy did for me as he drove it to

OK then no problem. If you have more questions just relax and ask and someone will try to help you.

[Otto]

Mr chop, here is a few things i do to get steering, put washers on the front screws between the bulkhead and front pivotblock to get less kick up. This will give a more aggressive steering and more steering coming in to a turn.

Rear Run a long wheelbase, and rear camberlink 6-C with two washers.

front No washers under front ballstud. Short vla, 27.5wt orange springs, red piston, middle on arm and 2 on tower, unscrew 2turns, spindle low.

Bk2 rear end will give alot more steering during acceleration and a more forgiving car over bumps. Havent had any luck with it when running on low bite tracks but works good on astro turf.

[Otto]

And i forgot the most important put 30-35g of lead in the bulkhead

[Mike Thomas]

One problem with a Losi that I have found and especially with the 2wd that nobody talks about is the shocks. One thing about the Losi shock is that the oil causes the "o" ring to swell and it pinches the shaft. This makes the car appear to have a heavier damping which changes to handling dramatically especially making the car push like a dump truck. Have you ever noticed that when you first build a Losi, especially box new that it handles awesome and after a month or so, it does not handle so good? Every static change you try does not work or help the car. That is because the "o" rings have swelled and even if you change the oil, it still feels the same. About every 3-4 weeks if not more, you need to put dry "o" rings in the shocks. They do not have to be new but they have to be dry. I soak my swelled rings in motor spray for a day to pull out the oil and let them air dry and they are good as new. I also coat the new "o" rings in a petroleum based grease like green slime. Compare for yourself, take a shock apart and with the cartridge in place, slide it up and down the shaft and feel the resistance. Then, put new coated rings in and try again and feel the difference. This will make the car feel like new and will be more accepting of adjustments. I have helped dozens of local racers with this tip and they all say the same thing...OMG. Don't give up on Losi so quick, they are awesome vehicles. Try this tip.

[TFrahm]

One HUGE problem with a Losi and especially with the 2wd that nobody talks about is the shocks. ...... I also coat the new "o" rings in a petroleum based grease like green slime.

Hmm... I have to say I have NEVER had this sort of problem with my LOSI shocks, and I've been using them since the days of the Pro-SE and LXT... HOWEVER, I have to also say that I DO use the Green Slime on my shock o-rings every time I build a new shock cartridge, so maybe that's why I haven't this problem... Another factor is that I ONLY use LOSI silicone oil, which is not supposed to affect O-rings, so...?

[Briguy]

Hmm... I have to say I have NEVER had this sort of problem with my LOSI shocks, and I've been using them since the days of the Pro-SE and LXT... HOWEVER, I have to also say that I DO use the Green Slime on my shock o-rings every time I build a new shock cartridge, so maybe that's why I haven't this problem... Another factor is that I ONLY use LOSI silicone oil, which is not supposed to affect O-rings, so...?

Same here .

[Mike Thomas]

I also only use TL silicaone and I also always use Green Slime but I still have this problem and see a noticable difference when I change them. As stated previous, try them for yourself. Just for the record, I also have been using Losi shocks since the JRX-T.

[fastinfastout]

One problem with a Losi that I have found and especially with the 2wd that nobody talks about is the shocks. One thing about the Losi shock is that the oil causes the "o" ring to swell and it pinches the shaft. This makes the car appear to have a heavier damping which changes to handling dramatically especially making the car push like a dump truck. Have you ever noticed that when you first build a Losi, especially box new that it handles awesome and after a month or so, it does not handle so good? Every static change you try does not work or help the car. That is because the "o" rings have swelled and even if you change the oil, it still feels the same. About every 3-4 weeks if not more, you need to put dry "o" rings in the shocks. They do not have to be new but they have to be dry. I soak my swelled rings in motor spray for a day to pull out the oil and let them air dry and they are good as new. I also coat the new "o" rings in a petroleum based grease like green slime. Compare for yourself, take a shock apart and with the cartridge in place, slide it up and down the shaft and feel the resistance. Then, put new coated rings in and try again and feel the difference. This will make the car feel like new and will be more accepting of adjustments. I have helped dozens of local racers with this tip and they all say the same thing...OMG. Don't give up on Losi so quick, they are awesome vehicles. Try this tip.

I thought motor spray swells up O rings, but not as bad as oil!

[Briguy]

It does and when the motor spray evaporates it can dry out the o-rings .

[Y2KGTP]

Hmm....I have all Losi Oil's....maybe I should get some green slime?

[Briguy]

Hmm....I have all Losi Oil's....maybe I should get some green slime?

Green slime works great for many things and should be in every racers pit box , next to the shoe goo of course . :D

[Mike Thomas]

I did not intend to cause a whirlwind of controversy here. I simply wanted to post a tip that I have found useful in the hopes it would help a fellow racer, especially a fellow racer who is struggling with a Losi. If your ride is dialed every time you hit the track then no need to use this. If you and your car are struggling, give it a try. It's called a tip, not a mandatory. ;)

[Y2KGTP]

Green slime works great for many things and should be in every racers pit box , next to the shoe goo of course . :D

I don't have shoe goo either, but I do have Welder Glue :D

[Matt Chambers]

In my experience I do everything I can to keep motorspray AWAY from all shock parts. Most motorsprays actually make o-rings swell to nearly double their original size. I wish I had a picture to post for comparison. Green Slime can help make the o-rings feel smoother but I think its not as good as some fresh new ones.

[Ashley Williams]

I agree motor spray is harmful to O rings. Ther dirt cheap i replace mine atleast once a month.

A

[neondreamz8]

In my experience I do everything I can to keep motorspray AWAY from all shock parts. Most motorsprays actually make o-rings swell to nearly double their original size. I wish I had a picture to post for comparison. Green Slime can help make the o-rings feel smoother but I think its not as good as some fresh new ones.

i dont even know how much slime is but is it cheaper the new o-rings????? and ive never had this problem with shocks hanging up.... but hey if it works maybe a quick fix in the fields when you cant find new o-rings. But i got a sweet new tip not for speed but for cleanin that we all hate.... this works best for nitro.... Eagle one makes this new wheel keep clean, spray it on your car let is sit for 30 min before driving and the dirt, grime, and nitro fuel dont stick.... to clean air or just a light spray of water and its like new, the best part it last for like a month before you have to do it again

[Briguy]

I`ve never had any problems with the O-rings causing any problems , but I always have used Green Slime to coat them when building my shocks . If I am out of slime I use shock oil .

O-rings are cheap .

Mike if your method works for you , great . But you are doing more harm then good to the O-rings . You are swelling them at first with the motor spray and then when the spray evaporates it dries them out . Motor spray evaporates rapidly which causes the o-rings to dry out .

[grapejuice]

In my experience I do everything I can to keep motorspray AWAY from all shock parts. Most motorsprays actually make o-rings swell to nearly double their original size. I wish I had a picture to post for comparison. Green Slime can help make the o-rings feel smoother but I think its not as good as some fresh new ones.

Yeah, I used to clean out my shocks with motor spray, till Matt showed me how big my o-ring swelled to.......and I only sprayed out the shock bodies.

[underway]

Are the losi firm foams comparable to Trinity Bomb one foams?

[Casper]

Losi foams are just a little softer but the bigger deal is they are not as wide or tall. They work great on bumpy loose tracks but traction comes up Bomb one work better.

[Y2KGTP]

Just got a used xxx-cr today. It has the rack steering installed. Is it me is is there not much steering throw available ? It seems lilt it should be much more than what it has.....

[Y2KGTP]

Just got a used xxx-cr today. It has the rack steering installed. Is it me is is there not much steering throw available ? It seems lilt it should be much more than what it has.....

Never mind...I found the missing servo block wedged in the steering rack :eek: Throw is much better with it removed. :D

[Briguy]

LOL , ya that usually helps . Mine was shipped today and will be here Thursday .

[Y2KGTP]

LOL , ya that usually helps . Mine was shipped today and will be here Thursday .

Caved in and got it? :D

[Briguy]

LOL , ya . I caved in even more and bought a xx-4 . Not gonna be able to have both running right away .

[Y2KGTP]

LOL , ya . I caved in even more and bought a xx-4 . Not gonna be able to have both running right away .

Maybe I'll borrow it.....just make it bind and drive :D

[Briguy]

Did you buy that xcelorin 6.5 system ?

[Y2KGTP]

Did you buy that xcelorin 6.5 system ?

Sure did :D I like to have a little too much power for a vehicle, and just dial it down a bit.

I used to get alot of flack back in the day for running 15 doubles when everyone else told me to run 17 tripples :D

"15d is too much motor" LOL

JRX2 held up just fine.....:D

[rob martin]

Can u use the xxxt cr aluminum pivot block on the buggy??i'm assuming this aluminum plate on the truck is the same as the original xxx pivot?

[Eric Clark]

Can u use the xxxt cr aluminum pivot block on the buggy??i'm assuming this aluminum plate on the truck is the same as the original xxx pivot?

Yes, it is the same and use losa9800 for the rear arms.

[underway]

Whats a decent servo for the 2wheel?

[Casper]

If you don't need one right now and can wait till the end of the month I would strongly consider the New Spektrum digital high speedo servo for only $79.99. It has way more torque then you would need but for the price you can't beat it.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPMSH6040

I don't know of any other servo out there that can meet these specs for that price.

I run the Orion 1007 in my buggy and truck right now and love them. They are $99.99 on horizon's site

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ORI68001

Basically I would look for something with speeds of .10sec or faster and 100oz or more of torque.

What is your budget?

[Briguy]

I`m gonna need a servo for my XXX-CR and XX-4 and might wait for the Spektrum one .

[underway]

I've been running the ACE servo's for a few years and really like them. I ran a 1015 last year and was happy with it. Just didnt want to shell out the 100 bucks for it though. I ended up buying a 1313 and will see if the speed of it is a turn off. But I always turn my dual rate down as it is... I'm old with slow reaction time!!!!

[Casper]

Dual rate does not slow down the servo. It equally limits the throw. It will make the car less sensitve to counter steering or over steering. It does not actually slow down the servo though.

I am super excited about the new Spektrum servo. As soon as they come in I am putting one in my strike! ;)

[Y2KGTP]

I'm cheap and just run Z590's as I had a few of them laying around.

[Justme]

I like the Airtronics 94357 servos, but there are newer ones that work just as good or better.

[mr chop]

ok i am dumb founded queston for you guys

what dose shim the spindals up or down to

in my case there up is that my car has zero turn lol?

[RcWorkShopp]

I don't know myself but I am sure someone will answer.

[Casper]

This is not a change I have really every played with. Stock setting is the spindle down. (spacer on top). Raising the spindle should effect the bumpsteer as well as have some other effects I am not sure of. I have not thought about all the impacts as it is too early in the morning. I am not really aware of many people to use the up position though. I would lower it to the stock position. I doubt this would take away ALL steering though.

[Matt Chambers]

raising the spindles to the up position requires using a .030 gold washer under the ballstud on the spindle. This will keep the bump steer the same. 'Spindles Up' basically acts like adding limiters to the front shocks if you think about it. In my experience it does the exact same thing... Has more on power steering and tends to feel more aggressive in low speed corners when reaching the apex. Of course you also sacrafice a little bit of jump handling as you have less overall shock downtravel in the front end.

I would say 90% of the time I run Spindles down (stock location). Only a handful of times have I been on a track where I needed the extra steering out of the corners.

As far as Servos go... I saw someone had mentioned something earlier on this page... Casper is right about the specs, if your in that ballpark you should be fine with whatever brand you get. Personally I like the JR 8800S in all my electric cars because they are very fast, precise, and SMOOTH.

[Curtis May]

+1,like Matt said,i think you lose to much of your jump handling when running the spindles in the up position,I fill you benefit more from making a shock adjustment(limiting).I think that limiting your shock is more precise

[Casper]

Matt-- I am not sure the 8800s is still being made. I can't find it on the JR site or the horizon site.

[MikeFriery]

The 8800s is indeed discontinued.. however There is a spektrum servo listed on horizons site with the exact same specs as the 8800s.. hmm? :D

*Edit* I Lied, its got alot more torque than the 8800s.
http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/TechnicalSpecs.aspx?ProdID=SPMSH6040

[discostu]

hey fellas

im looking for a starting setup for grass can anybody help.

stu

[Showtime]

Matt-- I am not sure the 8800s is still being made. I can't find it on the JR site or the horizon site.

Not sure if they are being made, but they still have them, I just sent in servos for repair to JR/Horizon and I got back z8800s.

And wow... they are awesome. JR servos, IMO, are the best...

If your looking for servos, the 4750, 4850, 8800, 9000, &9100 are all GREAT servos. check around ebay and the message boards, I'm sure you can pick up a couple servos for $100.

[Casper]

They are still selling the T but not the S. You can still get gears for them as well. I don't know why?

[Y2KGTP]

Amusing project ...we just had a new baby, so my free time is cut way down.

(No I did not paint the body, came with the used vehicle :D)

http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/2386/img4706o.jpg

[mr chop]

+1,like Matt said,i think you lose to much of your jump handling when running the spindles in the up position,I fill you benefit more from making a shock adjustment(limiting).I think that limiting your shock is more precise
will mr smart guy you can fix my car tmo :D

[NM8T]

I'm cheap and just run Z590's as I had a few of them laying around.

Your not the only one. I love that servo in my buggy. Gonna step up thought to digital so i can run my hrs mode on the 3pks.

[Briguy]

There will be a 590 servo in both my xxx-cr and xx-4 . I do have a 9100s in my xxx-t cr but only reason that is in there is because I had one sitting around . Had to do some dremel work so it would fit though .

[discostu]

hey fellas

im looking for a starting setup for grass can anybody help.

stu



has anybody got a link

[Casper]

Check here

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/SetupSheetsLosiTripleXCR.html

[mr chop]

casper curt may eric clark and matt chambers i would like to thank all of you for the help to get my to wheel working :)

i got it dialed!

till i broke it lol stupid metal fench poles

has any one notice that this car jumps higher and farther then anything eles out right now! i notce it today we had a dubble to a triple and i could easly make clean in the air pass with the car!

[Casper]

Losi cars have always jumped well. Setup can effect how high/far the car jumps so it may be setup some but glad you got the car dialed in! ;)

[mr chop]

Losi cars have always jumped well. Setup can effect how high/far the car jumps so it may be setup some but glad you got the car dialed in! ;)
it could use a lil more weight i had to peice fall out but it was very good

[Curtis May]

Chops,i'm glad to hear that your car is working good,Now go lay it down and win some race's..Cya soon.

[RcWorkShopp]

I would like to thank the team drivers for helping with my setup. I did very well at our challenge on Sunday. I had to make a lot of changes and I can't believe what a difference making the smallest change can make. It's such a big impact on performance.

With my now increased steering fix I would like to take some rear tracking away. How can I do this without messing up my changes I just made to the front end? What I am looking for is a little less sensitivity in the rear. I would like the rear to slide a little.

Thanks again

[mr chop]

Chops,i'm glad to hear that your car is working good,Now go lay it down and win some race's..Cya soon.
let me find 2 sec a lap on the track and will see about wining some races :eek:

[Y2KGTP]

I'm getting bored waiting to get to the track in a few weeks.....I'm starting to tinker with my CR buggy now.....:D

http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/5996/img4715p.jpg

[NM8T]

hmm intresting.. Is there a writeup on that?

[Y2KGTP]

hmm intresting.. Is there a writeup on that?


Not yet, a few things I would like to improve first, and want to get some track time as well.

[Y2KGTP]

Does anyone have a nylon wing that fits the cr buggy? Thunder tiger used to make a 160mm wide wing (ST1 I believe) but I can't seem to find this anymore.

Just looking for something more durable than a lexan wing.

[Casper]

I think kyosho has one from there DBX or something like that. I would look at all the mini truggies (ofna etc) and see what is out there.

The losi guys have been using a extra strip of lexan under the wing to stiffen it up some which seems to help with wing longevity. I will take a picture if I remember when I get home tonight.

With the CR wing you basically cut the "inner" wing down so it is flat and put it under the main wing as a support. The wing will not crack as easy but the sides will still split over time but wing is better supported.

[Ashley Williams]

Personally dont seem to break wings very often. Plus there only 6 quid or so not an expensive part to replace every now and again.


A

[Ashley Williams]

I'm getting bored waiting to get to the track in a few weeks.....I'm starting to tinker with my CR buggy now.....:D

http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/5996/img4715p.jpg

Very nice car.

Over here in the UK a company has made a conversion kit for the cr....

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/euros2009/day3/otto/OOP_9119.jpg


The atmoic carbon cr2 i should have mine anyday now wwwwoooo


Here is my build blog...

http://mycr2.blogspot.com/

A

[Heavy B]

Where do you get a brass front pivot plate (bulkhead)? In the states we use the aluminum one from the XXXT. Would brass be heavier, definately softer than aluminum. Nice blog look forward to updates.

[Otto]

Very nice car.

Over here in the UK a company has made a conversion kit for the cr....

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/euros2009/day3/otto/OOP_9119.jpg


The atmoic carbon cr2 i should have mine anyday now wwwwoooo


Here is my build blog...

http://mycr2.blogspot.com/

A




thats mine Euros b-main car :)

[Otto]

Where do you get a brass front pivot plate (bulkhead)? In the states we use the aluminum one from the XXXT. Would brass be heavier, definately softer than aluminum. Nice blog look forward to updates.

Mine is from www.ghea.se be sure to try out their pistons.

[Y2KGTP]

I do like that atomic. I like how they got around the reverse motor rotation with the extra idler gear. I will be running on a indoor clay track, so not as worried about the reverse rotation of the motor causing issues. The brushless motors we have these days have less rotating mass than a brushed motor.

Holding the buggy in the air you give it throttle, the front end kicks up, give it brake, it dives down.....as expected.

I however am very frugal, and only bought a 11$ battery mount plate from a Axiel crawler to make mine + a little dremel work. I just copied what I did to my Speed-T :D

The battery mount also can adjust forward 1/2" or so for balance adjustments, if needed.

No clue where to mount the ESC switch yet. Might have to swap in my longer one.

Tires did have tread before I ran the buggy for about 5 minutes. :D

http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/2059/img4717w.jpg

[Ashley Williams]

thats mine Euros b-main car :)

Yea your car is nice otto. Really like your idler gear mod. Im struggerling a bit to get mine to work.

A

[Otto]

Y2KGTP: atomic carbon have a gearbox conversion that will flip the motor it will fit yours too, the idler gear is my own creation, you get noticable more car control in the air when rotor and wheels spin in the same direction.

[Otto]

Ashley: thanks what seems to be the problem?
If you have the losi xxx idlergear and bearings it should be upt together like this:
from motorplate: .5 mm schim|ballbearing|1.5mm schim|ballbearing|

very important that you use the 1.5mm schims between the bearings to get a "crushtube"

[Ashley Williams]

I just seem conserned by the tight mesh with the pinion.

Also what motor are you running with a 20t pinion?????

A

[Briguy]

Why is it that I can not find the conversion kit on their website or online store ?

[Ashley Williams]

http://atomic-carbon.gforceimages.net/cr2/index.html

If you want to order one you have to e-mail jonathan.

A

[Otto]

Ashley, i run 20T piniong and 78T spur on a LRP X12 8.5 and gearing and mesh is perfect.

it might be a little more tight than ordinary piniong/spur mesh but mine runs great.

[Ashley Williams]

O thats ok then. Ive currently got a 7.5 ill see how it runs.

A

[Briguy]

http://atomic-carbon.gforceimages.net/cr2/index.html

If you want to order one you have to e-mail jonathan.

A

Thanks for the info .

Wow ! Converts over to $272 USD . Think I`ll be trying Eric`s conversion .

[Y2KGTP]

Thanks for the info .

Wow ! Converts over to $272 USD . Think I`ll be trying Eric`s conversion .

LOL Brian... :D

[Briguy]

You better get to the track and show me your truck/buggy before you put a patent on them . :D

[Chris Wolfson]

Cool looking car...

[Otto]

Ashley, regarding your tight gear mesh, i use the xxxcr idler but i think the bk2 is slightly bigger in case you might of those instead.

[Ashley Williams]

Ive bought two brand new idler gears which are the cr ones for sure ill try them and see.

A

[Chris Wolfson]

Any other good setups floating around out there with the BK2 rear arms/hubs on the car?

[Casper]

Which ones have you tried?

[MikeFriery]

Here's what i've been running on my car for old arm:
(Scottsdale R/C Speedway *Medium Traction wet track*)

Front
Toe Zero
Ride Height Level
Camber -1
Camber link 3-b w / 1 washer
Spindles down
No bump or bellcrank washers

Shocks
2-Middle
25 weight, standard 56's, Silver spring 0 limiting

Rear
2 antisquad
Bones Level
-1 Camber
Hubs back
Steel dogbones/outdrives
2-B Camber link

Shocks
2- Middle
22.5, standard 56's Yellow or White spring, 0 limiting.

Battery forward
3/4 oz under front kick plate
1/2 oz in front of servo
1/2 oz on servo

[Casper]

Old arm meainging BK2 arms?

What VLA settings you running?

[MikeFriery]

yeah bk2 arms,

short/short vla settings sorry.

[Chris Wolfson]

I've been running a setup that Eric Clark shared with me that I believe originated from something Todd Hodge was running.

Basically, it's the Jesse Robbers CR front end with bellcranks. Rear is 27.5/56/.060/Yellow springs with 2B camber link. Everything else is pretty standard. 3 degrees antisquat, hubs middle. Shocks located in 2 - inside.

Car is pretty good - just looking at other things people are trying.

[Revlimit]

I might have missed this earlier but why would you guys switch from the cr arms to the bk2 arms? Just because they are graphite or what? Any real performance increase?

[Casper]

Longer rear arms. (overall width is the same just moving the inner pivot in board more and useing longer arms to maintain overall width) I feel this change stablizes the rear end and give more control on power in corner exit. The CR rear end with the shorter rear arms really excels on bumpy tracks where lots of camber gain is desireable but I have found the car with the longer rear arms on it much easier to drive for me.

[jeffreyd1965]

has anyone tried running the gear diff from the desert truck in their buggy, i was thinking of trying it since i only plan on running in the stock class

[Casper]

The gear diff will be heavier which is bad for stock class and it will allow for the tire with the least power to unload easier which will lead to less predictible handling. Gear diffs are neat as they are more durable but unless you can fill them with some type of fluid they do not handle as well as a ball diff. Ball diffs do require some more maintaince but they are light weight and work really well to control power to both tires while still allo the diff to work in the corners.

Although you can do this I would recommend against it unless you are putting huge power in the car for bashing and handing is not as much of a concern and you don't want to worry about the diff and slipper settings.

[Revlimit]

So you are changing the whole rear end of the car from the shock tower back, including tranny? Will the cr hubs still work, along with the cvds? On another note I really have missed out on this site, there aren't many sites that the team drivers will come on and help other people.

[MikeFriery]

All you need to change is the Rear pivot, the rear pivot brace, and the arms.

The CR hubs will work however they will space the CVD's/Dogbones out slightly further than the BK2 hubs. I personally run the MF2 Rear hubs on my car which are the same as the BK2 rear hubs except for an extra hole for the camber link.

[Casper]

Yeah if you use the CR rear hubs I have my shocks limited about .060 to keep the droop from getting the bones out to the edge of the outdrives. I have not had them pop out with no limiting but it was too close for my own comfort.

[tmaxx]

any one know if their isa new 2wd buggy yet to replace the xxxcr

[Chris Wolfson]

any one know if their isa new 2wd buggy yet to replace the xxxcr

Sorry tmaxx - no new 2wd buggy...

[Ashley Williams]

4wd?????

A

[TFrahm]

any one know if their isa new 2wd buggy yet to replace the xxxcr

WHY? Out of the box it is competitive, change a few parts on the rear suspension and you have a totally different buggy that can be changed back just as easily. It can be "dialed" to any track or conditions... The XXX-CR "works" -- it will do just fine as-is...:confused:

[Trev15B]

Hey Casper what sort of gearing do you recommend for the 13.5 in the buggy?

[JustWill75]

Yeah Casper, I need to know this one also. I just ran my Xcelorin S 13.5 yesterday for a few laps but it was on a very small carpet track. Ive been hearing 30+ tooth pinions and 70 range spurs for normal tracks.

[Casper]

31/76 is what I have my 13.5 geared at.

[bshack]

WHY? Out of the box it is competitive, change a few parts on the rear suspension and you have a totally different buggy that can be changed back just as easily. It can be "dialed" to any track or conditions... The XXX-CR "works" -- it will do just fine as-is...:confused:

We want a new buggy because it's more fun to be the first one at the track with that "new car". I wish that there was a new design about every 3 years. Latest and greatest is what most of us want. Some of us just like to throw money at our hobby shops. R/C is addictive and I'll do crazy things just to race on Sunday.

[Curtis May]

Brad,are you ready for some indoor?...lol.....The track is just about ready to go...

[Y2KGTP]

What is a good FDR\gearing to shoot for with a Xcelorin 8.5T? Picked one up and the 6.5T Xcelorin is going in my XX-4 when it shows up. :D

[Casper]

I would differ to Chambers or someone else on that one. I know the mod motors are not geared very high. Keep an eye on motor AND ESC temps with mod motors. A 8.5 should be no problem for the ESC without the fan. The 6.5 will get the ESC a little warm.

[Y2KGTP]

I would differ to Chambers or someone else on that one. I know the mod motors are not geared very high. Keep an eye on motor AND ESC temps with mod motors. A 8.5 should be no problem for the ESC without the fan. The 6.5 will get the ESC a little warm.

Oh, I plan on keeping the fan on it.....never really considered not running it......

[grapejuice]

What is a good FDR\gearing to shoot for with a Xcelorin 8.5T? Picked one up and the 6.5T Xcelorin is going in my XX-4 when it shows up. :D

I'm geared at 78/22 with an Xcelorin 8.5, I think Matt and Dustin are right around the same, maybe a 23 (we all race at the same track which is on the small side)

[Trev15B]

31/76 is what I have my 13.5 geared at.

Thanks Casper

[Y2KGTP]

31/76 is what I have my 13.5 geared at.

5.95 FDR? :eek:


I guess I still don't gear high enough....

[Casper]

Gear up until it gets hot! 140deg is where I target for. They will just keep getting faster! I am around 5.0 for 17.5! ;)

If you are using an advance timing speedo you cannot gear this high. For normal speedo's though this is where you will get the max performance!

[Y2KGTP]

Gear up until it gets hot! 140deg is where I target for. They will just keep getting faster! I am around 5.0 for 17.5! ;)

If you are using an advance timing speedo you cannot gear this high. For normal speedo's though this is where you will get the max performance!

I use Xcelorin ESC's...... :D

[JustWill75]

Hey Casper, the smallest LOSI spur I found is the 78 tooth Kevlar. Are you using a aftermarket gear?

[Casper]

This is what I am using.

http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA3980

It is a losi 76 kevlar spur for the buggy.

[JustWill75]

This is what I am using.

http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA3980

It is a losi 76 kevlar spur for the buggy.

Thanx for the part number.

Do you have any good xcelorin setups for 13.5 with that gearing? I looking forward to swatting some Bee4's ;)

[Casper]

You mean for the speedo? Run the initial aceleration high and timing at 4. 20% drag brake.

If you are talking chassis setup then my standard setup.

[bshack]

Brad,are you ready for some indoor?...lol.....The track is just about ready to go...

I'm still working out of town on the Lear Jet but we test fly on Friday. I will be there on Sunday.

[Justme]

What is the difference between the Xcelorin 17.5 BL system and say the 4800Kv BL system? Is there a Kv motor that is the same as a 17.5?

[Briguy]

17.5 is sensored and 4800 ia not .

[Y2KGTP]

What is the difference between the Xcelorin 17.5 BL system and say the 4800Kv BL system? Is there a Kv motor that is the same as a 17.5?

4800Kv is more like a 9.5T equivalent....it's what comes with the Speed-T truck out of the box.

[Matt Sunderlage]

You mean for the speedo? Run the initial aceleration high and timing at 4. 20% drag brake.

If you are talking chassis setup then my standard setup.

Is your set up like Matt Chambers if not could you post yours???
That would be great.:)

[Justme]

Thanks for the motor info, much appreciated. I was trying to decide which way to go with my new XXX-CR. Looks like the 17.5 is going to be it, no more brushed.

[murderone]

What batteries are you fellas using with your brushless set ups? Also- Does anyone here use or prefer the desert truck diff in the cr's for racing?

[rob martin]

What batteries are you fellas using with your brushless set ups? Also- Does anyone here use or prefer the desert truck diff in the cr's for racing?

Im running Orion's and trakpower's. I wouldnt recommend the desert diff especially for racing.

[Casper]

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/setuptriplexcr/TripleXCR_Casper_OCRCRaceway2009.pdf

Here is a link to my setup. It is pretty far off the chambers setup.

I run Losi 4400 30C batteries. They seem to be underrated as they keep up with the 40C's out there no problem.

For racing don't put the gear diff in the truck. It will last longer then a ball diff that will require some maintance but the gear diff will make for incosistant handling as it does not do as good a job of keeping rear end from "diffing out". This is when the tire with the least traction gets all the power.

If you are just bashing and not as worried about performance the gear diff is not a bad way to go.

[Justme]

Seeing that I have been out of work for a couple months, I am going to have to wait on the BL system. I am going to use a brushed motor and esc I have for now. Reading that Casper is at 5.0 FDR with a 17.5BL, what should a brushed FDR range be? I looked in the XXX-CR manual, but it suggest running a 22-23/78 which is an 8.something. Is that right?
Casper; I race at Pegasus for now, if that helps.

[Briguy]

Your FDR is going to change with each different turn motor . For running brushed the chart in the manual is a good starting point .

[Casper]

22-23 will get you in the right range for brushed. Talk to Mike Guzman. He still runs brushed and will get you in the right range.