XXX-CR 2WD Buggy

[liam]

Just a quick question

Do the xx cvd's fit the xxx because ive got some of these

I notice on my xx manual they are listed for xxx to!

Im new to the xxx and i know there was some parts across the models that dont mix (or something!)

cheers

[Casper]

What made you change the rear end from wide cr pivot to the old narrow one? Would be nice to hear the reason in the same way Frant explained the rear shock tower.

Short rear arms with a wide pivot help the car go through bumps and rough stuff better. It increases camber gain and shorter arms do not have as much leverage for support of the rear end. The longer arms support the rear end more and make the car more stable. You loose some rough track handling but you gain consistancy and stablity on higher bite flowing tracks that we run most of our bigger events on. The CR rear end was designed for rougher tracks like they saw at the worlds in Italy a few years back. The XXX rear end has proven to be a better general setup for most conditions we see here at the states.

Just a quick question

Do the xx cvd's fit the xxx because ive got some of these

I notice on my xx manual they are listed for xxx to!

Im new to the xxx and i know there was some parts across the models that dont mix (or something!)

cheers

Yes XXX and XX share the same length drive shafts. The BK2 or Gen II rear end uses different drive shafts.

[Razer]

Not saying anything in here is right or wrong, just what I have learned in my experiences and how I go about setting up my vehicles.

In Off-Road handling dynamics are slightly different from On-Road and can sometimes seem backwords. I came from On-Road and found out the hard way. In On-Road, you work with pretty much always having traction, were in off-road, you are usually working around somewhat of a slide/drift most of the time. If you go softer in the rear for TC, you will generally develop more rear grip thoughout a turn. If Off-Road, this same change will generally help the rear end to dump on the outside rear tire, over load it a bit, and help it to slide which will help the car rotate. Obviously, this is a general example, and can easily be different depending on grip less and if you are coming from the soft or stiff end of the setup medium.

We had started to go softer and softer with spring and oil, increased camber gain and static camber all to increase the general roll of the CR, which was beginning to produce more grip, and make the car easier to drive. Unfortunately, the setup package had become too soft to allow of good balance, and forgiveness with jump/obstacles. This is when we began to look into ways to produce more roll without need such soft spring and oil. That is when we raised the pivot. Although the chassis is relatively "lowered", the big change is really in the relationship between the outdrive and pivot height. When the chassis is lowered, you will still reset the ride height to the same number (23.5mm in my case). Thus the outdrive and hub are still maintaining the same bone angle and relatively the same bone plung thoughout the travel. Then the only effective change was the raising of the pivot, which produced more roll. This ended up a being enough roll, we felt that we needed a slightly high inner camber link position and this is when the tower was raised. Throughout the process, I have adjusted the shock limiting to have the correct amount of down travel, but with the standard height tower, and raised pivot, we had lost some up-travel which was an added bonus for raising the tower.

Hope that all makes sense!

Frank

Wow, thanks for a long and well written answer Frank! Really appreciate it!

The only thing I don't get, is how heightening the pivot means more roll :p In theory, this will on any car onroad or offroad, create less roll. won't it?

I myself come from being a Corally factory driver, running Mod TC, so I guess I'm going through something similar to what you did:p

Again thanks for invaluable answers and help from all Team Losi guys, reading this forum made me better in all aspects this season!!!

EDIT: Yay, this is post number 1000, and I did it! :P

[liam]

thanks for the reply

will the xx/xxx cv's ive got still work with the 9800 rear arm mod im going to do?

thanks again!

[Casper]

Yes the CR bones and axles work with the XXX pivot and BK2 rear arms. The only car that has different bones is the Gen II tranny.

[Frank Root]

Wow, thanks for a long and well written answer Frank! Really appreciate it!

The only thing I don't get, is how heightening the pivot means more roll :p In theory, this will on any car onroad or offroad, create less roll. won't it?

I myself come from being a Corally factory driver, running Mod TC, so I guess I'm going through something similar to what you did:p

Again thanks for invaluable answers and help from all Team Losi guys, reading this forum made me better in all aspects this season!!!

EDIT: Yay, this is post number 1000, and I did it! :P

When you raise the pivot, you also raise the roll center, which will increase roll. For example, in TC, on carpet (especially foam tire), we would always run pivots much lower than for Asphalt (rubber tire) setups.

Frank

[liam]

Right Im nearly done asking questions!

Did all the xxx's have a 2.43 and use the same internals? My Diff has 50 teeth i think, not sure if that means much to anyone but im trying to establish what internals i have

also sorry if this has been covered before but when my hydra drive is fitted there isint much room left for a nut at the end of the slipper shaft. the black plastic "washer?" is already flush with the end of the slipper shaft

thanks again and who can say losi service is 5h1t when you can get help like this

[Casper]

The BK2 used a gray tranny case and had an internal tranny ratio of 2.56.

If you have a gray tranny case you have a GenII tranny. If you have a black tranny case you have a Gen I 2.43 tranny. You cannot mix and match them.

[Razer]

When you raise the pivot, you also raise the roll center, which will increase roll. For example, in TC, on carpet (especially foam tire), we would always run pivots much lower than for Asphalt (rubber tire) setups.

Frank


I had to doublecheck my knowledge now. I have based all my onroad setups on the knowledge of that a low RC gives more roll, and the high RC gives less. But reading the explanation of your setup made me a bit puzzled. But here goes:

A higher roll center will give less initial roll, and more load on the tires when entering a corner, giving it an aggressive feel. Lowering the roll center gives you more initial roll, and the car will also roll a lot "deeper", less initial load on the tires and less traction rolling.

I've used this knownledge a lot in touring racing, and also this summer with the buggies, so I'm glad I haven't got it all wrong according to theory.

Here's a few sources for those wanting to learn more about roll center:

Todd Hodge interview
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Articles/Article.aspx?ArticleID=1562

A guide going deeper into this topic
http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/c2/index.htm

[Kamikaze]

Hi, my first post here.

Is there anyway to make the Geardiff LOSA2930 from the desert truck to fit in the XXX-CR?

I don`t get along with the balldiff, but i like geardiffs.

[jrxt]

Tight fit may need a little dremeling fits better in T.

[Kamikaze]

oki, my friend put one in his Speed-T, whats the difference between these 2 cars??

[Razer]

Hi, my first post here.

Is there anyway to make the Geardiff LOSA2930 from the desert truck to fit in the XXX-CR?

I don`t get along with the balldiff, but i like geardiffs.

No problem at all. You need the diff set, gearbox housing, two sets of LOSA3034 and some dremeling where the box is bolted to the tower. Actually I just cut out some material with an Exacto knife.

I have run it a bit on high grip carpet, but it does make the car a bit harder to drive.
It's a it more inconsistent, and the outdrives get worn quite fast. On a low grip surface I wouldn't ever consider it, and the Losi ball diff can last a looooooong time in that car...

What is cool, is that it makes it a rocket on carpet, IF both tyres are on the ground while you exit the corner.

[RC John]

I had to doublecheck my knowledge now. I have based all my onroad setups on the knowledge of that a low RC gives more roll, and the high RC gives less. But reading the explanation of your setup made me a bit puzzled. But here goes:

A higher roll center will give less initial roll, and more load on the tires when entering a corner, giving it an aggressive feel. Lowering the roll center gives you more initial roll, and the car will also roll a lot "deeper", less initial load on the tires and less traction rolling.

I've used this knownledge a lot in touring racing, and also this summer with the buggies, so I'm glad I haven't got it all wrong according to theory.

Here's a few sources for those wanting to learn more about roll center:

Todd Hodge interview
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Articles/Article.aspx?ArticleID=1562

A guide going deeper into this topic
http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/c2/index.htm

Thanks for posting the links. Very informative.

[Nitrius]

Got the Losi Xcelorin S 6.5T combo in my XXX-CR, haven't really had the chance to drive it around much, but am just wondering if the diffs/gears in the XXX-CR will hold up with this combo? Only plan to run 2S lipos.

Been recommended to go over to a 7.5 or 8.5 turn version, since the 6.5 got a bit to much power for this car, or something like that.

[Briguy]

You have a whole lot of motor there ! The gears will be fine if you break-in the diff correctly , maintain it , and never let it slip .

[Nitrius]

Thanks for the answer. Got one more question though, what do you mean with "never let it slip?" You thinking of the slipper clutch?

[Casper]

Never let the diff slip. Always have the slipper set so it gives before the diff. If you have it set right your diff will last a good long time!

[Richard]

I'm trying to find some sand paddle tires for my buggy. I've only found truck or crawler sand tires for 2.2 wheels. Any help?

Richard.

[liam]

does anyone know if the 1123 25degree spindles are marked different to the 30deg?

cheers!

[Chris Wolfson]

does anyone know if the 1123 25degree spindles are marked different to the 30deg?

cheers!

I'll check - I have a package in the garage.

[Chris Wolfson]

does anyone know if the 1123 25degree spindles are marked different to the 30deg?

cheers!

OK! I should get a pat on the back, btw - I had to go out to the garage which is detached and across the parking lot from the townhouse through rain and cold tonight just to check this part! hehe ;)

Yes - there is a distinguishing mark. Look between the VLA holes on the carrier portion. If there is a tiny drill bit mark between and slightly below the two VLA holes then it is the 25 degree spindle set. That's the only distinguishing mark.

Chris

[liam]

Thanks Chris thats dedication for ya! (pat on back)

I dont have any of them so ill order up. Any body use them at all?

[Gitsum]

I know this has been posted before but for the life of me I can't seem to find it. I need ballpark gearing for a 13.5 and 8.5 for the CR. Current electronics are SXX Stock Spec and X12 13.5. Also have a SXX TC v2 and a 8.5. Thanks in advance!

[Chris Wolfson]

Thanks Chris thats dedication for ya! (pat on back)

I dont have any of them so ill order up. Any body use them at all?

I can't say I've ever had the 25's on my car...

[Casper]

The 13.5 will depend on how agressive you are with your ESC settings. I would start in the 28/76 range and adjust from there based off motor temps and feel.

8.5 with no boost. 26/76.

liam-- I have tried 25's and was not a big fan. They should give more high speed exit steering if that is something you are looking for. They did not work well with my setup but give them a try and see what you think.

[Briguy]

Is anyone shimming the rear tower and rear pivot like on the buggy ?

[Frank Root]

Is anyone shimming the rear tower and rear pivot like on the buggy ?

Unless I am mistaken, this is the buggy forum. Which vehicles are you asking about?

[Briguy]

Unless I am mistaken, this is the buggy forum. Which vehicles are you asking about?

Sorry , meant to have XXX-T CR in that post .

[Frank Root]

Sorry , meant to have XXX-T CR in that post .

Yes:
Here is the setup I ran at OCRC for the Surf City Classic.

FRONT:
Toe: 0
Ride Height:29mm
Camber: -1 degree
Caster: stock
Sway bar: no
Oil: 27.5
Piston: 57
Spring: silver
Limiters: .210
Spindle Height: bottom
Axle Spacer: outside of wheel (narrower track width)
Steering Type: Bellcranks (**inner hole with .060 under ballstud)
Bump Steer: .090
Camber Link: 2-B with 1 washers
Shock Location: 1-inside
VLA: short

REAR:
Toe: stock
Pivot Support: 2 degrees (raised .040" front and .030" rear)
Ride Height: 29mm
Camber: -1 degrees
Rear Hub Spacing: back
Driveshafts/Outdrive: xxx-t universal dogbone
swaybar: no
Oil: 30
Piston: drilled 55
Spring: White (1.8 rate)
Limiters: none, unscrew bottoms 2 turns
Camber Link: 2-b (MF2 hubs with quick change adapters)
Shock Location: 4-middle
VLA: short

Other -
Raise the rear tower .060"
Tires: Pink Truck BK Bar Rears, Pink Taper Pin Fronts
Body & wing type: XXX-T CR
Losi 5000mah LiPo
Battery Position: middle
Notes: 1/4 oz weight on each side of steering servo. and 3.5oz along battery. I weight the ESC, zero the scale, then use the PT and RX and add weight until it zeros out and place that weight on the rx side, then share the rest evenly. *****MF2 plastic hubs with quick change adapters**** Be sure to use XXX axle and narrow the quick change adapters .100" for the correct track width.

[Briguy]

Yes:
Here is the setup I ran at OCRC for the Surf City Classic.

FRONT:
Toe: 0
Ride Height:29mm
Camber: -1 degree
Caster: stock
Sway bar: no
Oil: 27.5
Piston: 57
Spring: silver
Limiters: .210
Spindle Height: bottom
Axle Spacer: outside of wheel (narrower track width)
Steering Type: Bellcranks (**inner hole with .060 under ballstud)
Bump Steer: .090
Camber Link: 2-B with 1 washers
Shock Location: 1-inside
VLA: short

REAR:
Toe: stock
Pivot Support: 2 degrees (raised .040" front and .030" rear)
Ride Height: 29mm
Camber: -1 degrees
Rear Hub Spacing: back
Driveshafts/Outdrive: xxx-t universal dogbone
swaybar: no
Oil: 30
Piston: drilled 55
Spring: White (1.8 rate)
Limiters: none, unscrew bottoms 2 turns
Camber Link: 2-b (MF2 hubs with quick change adapters)
Shock Location: 4-middle
VLA: short

Other -
Raise the rear tower .060"
Tires: Pink Truck BK Bar Rears, Pink Taper Pin Fronts
Body & wing type: XXX-T CR
Losi 5000mah LiPo
Battery Position: middle
Notes: 1/4 oz weight on each side of steering servo. and 3.5oz along battery. I weight the ESC, zero the scale, then use the PT and RX and add weight until it zeros out and place that weight on the rx side, then share the rest evenly. *****MF2 plastic hubs with quick change adapters**** Be sure to use XXX axle and narrow the quick change adapters .100" for the correct track width.

Thanks , what rear camber link should I run using the QC hubs ?

[Casper]

You can't quite run this setup as you need to use the upper inner hole (doesn't exist on the QC hub!) to get your hub roll center the same as running the MF2 hubs. I would run the B hole with 4 washers though should get you really close to the camber link setting he is running.

[Frank Root]

Thanks , what rear camber link should I run using the QC hubs ?

I am not really sure, I don't run the QC (XXX-T CR) hubs, as they don't have the ideal bone plunge.

Frank

[Nitrius]

Got a question, how do i go about mounting the bellcrank steering, instead of the rack type steering? Had the whole front disassembled, but i must be missing something... If anyone have a picture of a assembled bellcrank that would make me very happy =)

[Casper]

Instructions can be found in the BK2 manual. Actually about any XXX manual other then the CR

http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/BK2Complete.pdf

You need an extra set of short ball studs and a couple extra mini locknuts as well.

[Nitrius]

Thanks, i knew i was missing something, hehe.

[Briguy]

I am not really sure, I don't run the QC (XXX-T CR) hubs, as they don't have the ideal bone plunge.

Frank

Could you or anyone explain what "bone plunge" is ?

[Casper]

It is the amount that the bone moves into or out of the outdrive as the suspension travels. For most cars the bone will slide in and out of the outdrive as the rear arms go up and down. The BK2 was designed to minimize or eliminate this effect by adjusting the length of the bone and it's position relative to the pivot points on the arm.

[Nitrius]

Got a question here, i got the 6.5 turn Xcelorin motor/esc combo in my CR, and am running it with a 78T spur and 21T pinion, should that be fine?

And what gives better acceleration? And what gives better top speed? Thinking if i would either go up or down on spur/pinion. If i've got it right i think a higher gear ratio means a lower number, and lower gear ratio means higher number? And atm my final gear ratio is 9.02 i think.

[Chris Wolfson]

Got a question here, i got the 6.5 turn Xcelorin motor/esc combo in my CR, and am running it with a 78T spur and 21T pinion, should that be fine?

And what gives better acceleration? And what gives better top speed? Thinking if i would either go up or down on spur/pinion. If i've got it right i think a higher gear ratio means a lower number, and lower gear ratio means higher number? And atm my final gear ratio is 9.02 i think.

21 might be a little small. Depends on how hot it's coming off the track and if you are getting the powerband you want for the track you are on.

Smaller pinion and/or larger spur gear give better acceleration, more run-time, and usually cooler temps.
Larger pinion and/or smaller spur gear give more top end, less run-time, and usually hotter temps.

[Nitrius]

Thanks =)

Well so far i've only been driving on a indoor course, carpet. Haven't been driving the motor on full power yet, have it limited to 85% throttle on my transmitter, been gradually going towards 100%. Temps seems to be fine, or i haven't measured it, but i just came home from the track, where i did about 200 laps, ofc not in one go, but through the day, and no overheat problems so far(Motor timing is normal).

The course consist of mostly turns, but there is a pretty decent straight on the track, and i feel that the car could probably have gone a bit faster, but since i haven't driven at 100% throttle yet, those 15% i have left may be what am looking for.

Beside that, i really like how durable the car is, am not the best driver yet, so i've had some pretty awful crashes, mostly from the jumps on the course, am really astonished of how much of a beating the car can take, feel lucky that i didn't break anything today, hehe.

Another thing, through out the day today, i noticed that after a decent amount of runs, the motor seem to be giving of a different sound/noise when i pull the throttle, it seems to be working fine, but am pretty sure that it sounds a bit different now(Not 100% sure it's from the motor, but i only hear it when i give gas). Can this mean something?

[Chris Wolfson]

Thanks =)

Well so far i've only been driving on a indoor course, carpet. Haven't been driving the motor on full power yet, have it limited to 85% throttle on my transmitter, been gradually going towards 100%. Temps seems to be fine, or i haven't measured it, but i just came home from the track, where i did about 200 laps, ofc not in one go, but through the day, and no overheat problems so far(Motor timing is normal).

The course consist of mostly turns, but there is a pretty decent straight on the track, and i feel that the car could probably have gone a bit faster, but since i haven't driven at 100% throttle yet, those 15% i have left may be what am looking for.

Beside that, i really like how durable the car is, am not the best driver yet, so i've had some pretty awful crashes, mostly from the jumps on the course, am really astonished of how much of a beating the car can take, feel lucky that i didn't break anything today, hehe.

Another thing, through out the day today, i noticed that after a decent amount of runs, the motor seem to be giving of a different sound/noise when i pull the throttle, it seems to be working fine, but am pretty sure that it sounds a bit different now(Not 100% sure it's from the motor, but i only hear it when i give gas). Can this mean something?

Check your differential and slipper settings. The diff can loosen up as the day goes on. Make sure the slipper clutch is slipping and not the diff.

[Nitrius]

Well am pretty sure the slipper and diff is set properly, since if i hold the wheels and give full throttle i hear the slipper slip and not the diff, though i may be wrong as am not to experienced yet. Anyway the sound am talking about is really only noticeable when am holding the throttle at very low speed, as i crank the throttle into higher/full speed it sounds like it should.

It may sound a bit like a growl.

[Paul Holmes]

Probably only an extra 60% or so on top of what standard walking does.

Less than standard walking when going downhill, and more than the 60% extra when going uphill.

[lv4sndz]

Does anyone have a setup for RC excitement in Fitchburg MA. I know that they just had the J concepts race there and im pretty sure a couple of team drivers were there. Thanks in advance.
Mike G.

[magnus]

Is the front tyre 7204s discontinued? I can't find it anymore.

[Jason Haas]

Does anyone have a setup for RC excitement in Fitchburg MA. I know that they just had the J concepts race there and im pretty sure a couple of team drivers were there. Thanks in advance.
Mike G.

There was only one team driver and two other losi's at this event. We all ran the same set up which was the root set up with oranges up front and whites in the rear and only 2 washers up front.

[MattK43]

I've recently unretired from RC racing and pulled out my original BK1 with the trinity blue rear hubs on it. I tried to simulate Caspers setup and ran OK for the first time out. Although I ran the BK-1 front end and rear arms with Trinity hubs. I struggled with the car being tight on power.

Can I run the original front hubs and arms on the front or change?

Should I be changing from the BK-1 rear arms to the 9800?

I checked with the local racers at trackside and they told me to run pink pre scrubs on the front and pink BK bars on the rear so I think I was OK there. Should I be treating these tires? Cleaning between runs?

The other option they are running are green Rounders and Blue Bar codes.

Was also thinking of trying the other setup with raised tower also.

Any advice would be appreciated.

thanks

[Casper]

My setup will go right on your car. Your arms and VLA settings are the same locations to what I am running so don't worry about that. Just adjust camber and shocks. For rear camber I would start with the inner hole for more traction off power. If the rear end is locked in off power then you can go to the longer linke (outside on the hub) and let the rear end rotate a little more.

[TFrahm]

Casper -- What's the story on the XXX-CR being discontinued...???

[Casper]

I don't know! ;):p

[lv4sndz]

There was only one team driver and two other losi's at this event. We all ran the same set up which was the root set up with oranges up front and whites in the rear and only 2 washers up front.

Are you talking about this setup?????

Here is the setup I have been running lately. Let me know what you think. Items in ( ) are suggestions to dial in the car at your local track, or somethings other drivers on the team are/have run(ning).

FRONT:
Toe: +1 (0)
Ride Height: 24mm
Camber: -1 (-1.5) degree
Caster: stock-30*
Sway bar: no
Oil: 25wt (27.5 w/ Orange spring)
Piston: 56
Spring: Red (Orange w/ 27.5)
Limiters: none, unscrew shock bottoms 5 turns
Spindle Height: bottom
Axle Spacer: narrow
Steering Type: Bellcranks with outer hole. Shorten the drag link .060”
Bump Steer: none
Camber Link: 3-B with 3 (2) washers
Shock Location: 3 (2)-Outside
VLA: Long
Front Wing: no

REAR:
Toe: stock
Pivot Support: 3 degrees .060" washer under front of block; .050” washer under rear of block using XXX Alum pivot and BK2 arms-LOSA9800 and hubs
Ride Height: 23.5 (23) mm
Camber: -1 (-1.5) degrees
Rear Hub Spacing: back + .030” further back
Driveshafts/Outdrives: steel/cvd
swaybar: no
Oil: 27.5wt
Piston: 56
Spring: White (Grey)
Limiters: .060"
Camber Link: 3-b (4-5 washers with Trinity hubs)
Shock Location: 1 (2)-Inside
VLA: short

Wing Position/mount: Forward/ low
Body & wing type: XXX-CR
Losi 5000mah LiPo moved all the way forward
Battery Position: forward
Notes: 1/4 oz weight on each side of steering servo, 1/2 oz in front bulkhead with aluminum pivot ( which is an additional 1/4 oz over plastic) 1/2 oz under servo arm and 1-1/2 oz next to RX across from ESC.
If you use a Trinity or old XXX front tower, you only need the front shocks unscrewed 3 turns
Raise the rear tower .060”

Part Numbers....

LOSA9800 - BK2 Rear arms
LOSA9700 - XXX Graphite Fr Arms (optional)
LOSA1620 - Steering Assembly (Bell cranks)
LOSA4149 - XXX Alum Pivot
LOSA2128 - BK2 Rear Hubs
LOSA99201 - Lead Weight
MIP08131 - XXX-CR CVDs

Front to back description of changes (to the best of my ability)

The bellcranks have a solid plastic drag link that runs between the two bellcranks. You need to make a new link using two ball cups and either a long set screw or short tie-rod that is .060 shorter. This results in more low speed steering.

"Lipo moved all the way forward" refers to grinding a small amount of material off of the back side of the servo brace. This is done to allow the battery to sit flush with the front of the battery channel of the chassis.

".060" washer under front of block; .050” washer under rear of block using XXX Alum pivot" - This is done to soften the roll of the rear of the car with out softening the shocks too much that it would hamper the handling of the car over jumps.

"Raise rear Tower .060" - This is done to maintain the correct up-travel due to the pivot support being raised. In order to raise the tower you must dremel down the slot for the long screw that runs through the back of the tower into the transmission case. It does not take much.

"Rear Hubs an additional .030 back" - When you get the alum pivot it allows you to grind the front of it down .030 in order to move the rear arms back. This results in a small reduction in forward traction while making the car more forgiving. In addition when "swinging" the car around 180's the car feels much more stable and less prone to over rotation.


Cause this is what i started with the other day. It kind of suck cause i love the Losi product and no one runs these cars any more.
mike G.
__________________

[MattK43]

Ran my car for the second time with the Root setup in a BK1 with the Trinity rear hubs. The car was actually pretty good. I was the weak link in the system after being retired from RC racing for 9 yrs I was pretty inconsistent.

My only complaint is the car was a little tight on medium throttle. Most noticable on 180's that were a little wider. Any suggestions. Would taking one of the washers out of the front camber link help that? Currently running 3 per the setup posted.

Also, should I be cleaning the tires after each run? Running pink pre scrubs and BK bars.

Thanks

[mapplegate]

For Truhe's setup which rear pivot is he using? the stock cr one or the aluminum one? thanks!

[Chris Wolfson]

For Truhe's setup which rear pivot is he using? the stock cr one or the aluminum one? thanks!

The original XXX pivot. LOSA4149 for aluminum or LOSA4126 if you want plastic. Either one is the correct geometry.

[Dan Ross]

The original XXX pivot. LOSA4149 for aluminum or LOSA4126 if you want plastic. Either one is the correct geometry.

make sure if you go with plastic, to get the aluminum brace too. LOSA4138

[TFrahm]

I'm probably not the first to try this, but I haven't seen anyone else post about it, so...

When I first saw the pictures of the TLR22 (before any specs were published), I instantly saw it was longer than the CR... Then I saw the YouTube interview with Todd and heard him comment on how the longer WB gained corner speed...

So... I took my CR and "stretched" it by swapping out the chassis for a Gen1 XXX-T chassis (NOT the longer TCR or SpeedT version)... The wheelbase stretched to 11 1/4"...

Then I saw the specs for the 22 -- Wheelbase - 11 1/4"...

The finished buggy needed a new body -- I mounted a new Phobia with the front hole moved forward 3/8" -- worked like a charm. On the track, it DOES corner better, and I am very happy with the performance. Now I have stretched a second buggy (essentially a VLA BK1)...

Pics are of my long CR next to my TCR, the chassis/electronics layout, and the bottom view of my long CR next to my long/VLA BK1...

[E-Dog]

I'm probably not the first to try this, but I haven't seen anyone else post about it, so...

When I first saw the pictures of the TLR22 (before any specs were published), I instantly saw it was longer than the CR... Then I saw the YouTube interview with Todd and heard him comment on how the longer WB gained corner speed...

So... I took my CR and "stretched" it by swapping out the chassis for a Gen1 XXX-T chassis (NOT the longer TCR or SpeedT version)... The wheelbase stretched to 11 1/4"...

Then I saw the specs for the 22 -- Wheelbase - 11 1/4"...

The finished buggy needed a new body -- I mounted a new Phobia with the front hole moved forward 3/8" -- worked like a charm. On the track, it DOES corner better, and I am very happy with the performance. Now I have stretched a second buggy (essentially a VLA BK1)...

Pics are of my long CR next to my TCR, the chassis/electronics layout, and the bottom view of my long CR next to my long/VLA BK1...

Nice custom :)

[lv4sndz]

I'm probably not the first to try this, but I haven't seen anyone else post about it, so...

When I first saw the pictures of the TLR22 (before any specs were published), I instantly saw it was longer than the CR... Then I saw the YouTube interview with Todd and heard him comment on how the longer WB gained corner speed...

So... I took my CR and "stretched" it by swapping out the chassis for a Gen1 XXX-T chassis (NOT the longer TCR or SpeedT version)... The wheelbase stretched to 11 1/4"...

Then I saw the specs for the 22 -- Wheelbase - 11 1/4"...

The finished buggy needed a new body -- I mounted a new Phobia with the front hole moved forward 3/8" -- worked like a charm. On the track, it DOES corner better, and I am very happy with the performance. Now I have stretched a second buggy (essentially a VLA BK1)...

Pics are of my long CR next to my TCR, the chassis/electronics layout, and the bottom view of my long CR next to my long/VLA BK1...

Hey when you did this did you have to change anything about your setup? And what setup are you running on your car currently. I just got a second XXX-CR and am thinking about running the long chassis version to try igt.
Mike G.

[TFrahm]

Hey when you did this did you have to change anything about your setup? And what setup are you running on your car currently. I just got a second XXX-CR and am thinking about running the long chassis version to try igt.
Mike G.

Initially I didn't change anything. I believe in "one change at a time" so I know what the change did... The stretched buggy was simply more stable, seemed to jump more consistently, and had better corner speed... My 'short' setup had the battery all the way forward -- in the 'long' setup, I ran the battery "centered" (on thick spacer on each end of the LiPo). I still need just a bit more steering in some of the tighter, more technical areas and will be moving the battery forward next raceday... If my guess is right, I will also gain some high speed steering (the buggy gets very light on the front end when accellerating through high speed turns even with a 17.5 or 13.5)...

[whoajoe]

I tried this a few weeks back with the truck chassis. It works surprisingly well and still has a legal wheelbase. The biggest drawback to this setup, I found, was a significant loss of forward bite. I started with the old standard Evans setup and liked the battery all the way forward. Seemed to whip more predictably than with the battery in the middle. The only changes I ended up making were going to red front springs and yellow rears. With the longer chassis the car carries a lot more corner speed. Now I'm back to the short chassis because I don't think the long chassis is any better than the standard, it's just a different feel. Good luck with it.

[fastinfastout]

I have found that CVD's will increase entry steering, and forward bite. When a track is bumpy and loose, there is much more a tendency to need to drive square, and CVD's will help do this quicker.

Also, because the CVD will bind a bit, it helps keep the car for 'falling' in bumps, most importantly, helps the rear end stay up when laying jumps on throttle.

Not saying this is 100% correct, but just my experiences.;)

Hi, I have heard cvd's in general provide more rear grip by 'binding' more than uni's.

my question is, how does a cvd 'bind' when under acceleration, and how does the 'binding' action provide more forward traction?

my understanding is when a car is under acceleration, the rear will squat just a little bit, but the cvd will still be at its most 'free' position, which is nearly completely horizontal.

this question isn't directed at Frank himself, just anyone in general who can explain the physics!

[Casper]

They bind under load not under bending. So when you twist the CVD they kind of lock up and don't want to bend anymore. Since the bone will not want to bend it is like adding a stiffer spring to the car for side roll or wieght transfer. This is part of why the super soft springs work with the CVD's.

[M.Boos]

Will the gear diff from the XXX-SCT be a direct fit in the XXX-CR Buggy?

[Briguy]

Will the gear diff from the XXX-SCT be a direct fit in the XXX-CR Buggy?
No , you will need the gear diff tranny case .

[M.Boos]

Thank you! So anything else from the XXX-CR tranny will fit or do I need something else?

[jpucci13]

OK, lets start off with some basics. I just got a xxx cr from someone and its in real good shape and is running a Dynamite Tazer 15T esc and a Trinity speed Gems pro motor. I am gonna use this for a few weeks until I get a brushless setup (if i wanted more maintenance I would have got another nitro). Anyway, This is my first electric and I do not have any experience with the batteries and motors. I want a 10.5 or 13.5 set up and was wondering which brand I should go with, and how do I go about choosing the batteries for it? For the most part I will just be hitting bmx tracks and running in the desert. I am also thinking that a sensored setup would be preferred since I would do not want to have spikes in the speed when I am not just pinning the throttle.

[M.Boos]

I just wanted to know, if the LOSB2131 aluminum rear hubs from the SCT have the same dimensions as the BK2 rear hubs except the third hole? And so, will they fit on the XXX-CR Buggy with LOSA9800 rear arm?
Thanks!

[TFrahm]

I just wanted to know, if the LOSB2131 aluminum rear hubs from the SCT have the same dimensions as the BK2 rear hubs except the third hole? And so, will they fit on the XXX-CR Buggy with LOSA9800 rear arm?
Thanks!

I believe you mean LOSB2132, right?

[jpucci13]

I have read through about 54 pages of this section and have come up with yet another question. I was wondering which parts I should just start buying as replacements and to have on hand since I am waiting for my buggy to arrive? Graphite or aluminum, which is better for this buggy, as well as any part numbers of the hop up parts if anyone knows them off the top of their head? Once again sorry for another ignorant post, but as I have said, I have ZERO experience with electric and would like to start off on the right foot by taking advantage of the collective wisdom of present xxx cr racers :)

[M.Boos]

I believe you mean LOSB2132, right?
Yes, that one,too. So will LOSA2131 and LOSA2132 fit on the buggy?

[M.Boos]

Sorry, I mean LOSB2131 and LOSB2132.:o

[Chris Wolfson]

Sorry, I mean LOSB2131 and LOSB2132.:o

They should - they look like aluminum MF2 hubs...

[Casper]

They should - they look like aluminum MF2 hubs...

They are alum MF2 hubs! ;)

[jpucci13]

Ok, lets start off with saying that I scored a xxx cr for $120 with a 15t trinity. only marks on this thing are fingerprints, so I have to say I scored. I now want to set this up, so I am going to buy a LOT of parts for it. Rx, so I can bind to my DX3 and xcelerin 10.5. With a 10.5 sensored motor what should I go with for gearing? I also run a lot in dry low traction conditions. With this in mind, does anyone know what I should run for tires and setup? Would it be worth me swapping to this Bk2 setup I see everywhere? We really dont have tracks here except one outdoor and one indoor, so If one wants to see what type of track I would be going to, then look at this link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjMwgD0CQS4.. As far as indoor tracks, this is the only one around http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxrkLD3jbRQ. Since I did get this xxxcr used, how would I go about checking my clutch to make sure it is healthy? Any other input someone has would be great, this is my first electric and I am in the dark so any input would be valuable input.

[Casper]

10.5 I would gear around 28/76.

Slipper clutch. Hold the tires on the table and the front tires should just come off the table at full throttle. Just blip the throttle to see if the tires lift don't hold it for a while!

Tires. The outdoor track. Maybe a X-2000 or Green DD for rears or M3 Holeshots. Silver 7202 or green Rounders for the front.

Indoor track I would ask what hooks up best there. I would imagine a pink BK bar or Gold barcodes, or MC Suburbs for the rear and pink tapers, Gold barcodes for the front.

[jpucci13]

Thanks Casper, I will look into those parts. Any thought on the BK rear end set up?

[Casper]

I would do it. You just need arms and a pivot block and brace. It is a pretty cheap upgrade and worth it I feel.

[jpucci13]

Thanks again, and I will wear out my welcome with this final jeopardy question! What are the odds of someone...(Casper)...knowing the part numbers for BK2 setup? I went to Losi.com and did a search and just made it worse on myself.

[Casper]

http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA9800


http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA4149
or
http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA4126

http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA4138

[jpucci13]

You rock. Good to go, list is done except for a Rx, thanks for the help in spending the $600 on this car :) Now to blow a few hundred on the 10T...

[TFrahm]

http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA9800


http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA4149
or
http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA4126

http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA4138

I hesitate to question Casper, but when I did my "BK2" XXX-CR conversion, I also needed to change the rear hubs to:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA2128

(the stock CR hubs have some extra offset in them and they made the end of the dogbone almost pull out of the outdrive on the workbench -- changing to the LOSA2128/BK2 hubs moved the pin on the dogbone back in to where it needed to be...)

[jpucci13]

Sweet, another part for the list, thank you both for the info.

[Casper]

I hesitate to question Casper, but when I did my "BK2" XXX-CR conversion, I also needed to change the rear hubs to:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA2128

(the stock CR hubs have some extra offset in them and they made the end of the dogbone almost pull out of the outdrive on the workbench -- changing to the LOSA2128/BK2 hubs moved the pin on the dogbone back in to where it needed to be...)

I limited the rear shocks .030 and used the CR hubs. Never had a bone pop out using losi universals although I agree it does not look good! :eek: They work but lots of guys use the BK2 hubs. Both are options. You need to cut down the axles but it will fit in the box with the CR hubs as well. If you don't race where they tech then you can leave the full axles.

With CVD's they are a touch shorter and I had one popout but I don't run CVD's so have not run into that problem again.

[jpucci13]

For now I think I will run with the BK2 hubs. At the moment I do not race, and the next four months are going to be busy as **** while I finish my last semester of school, and than apply to med school. So the most I will do is hit those two tracks that I posted, and just some running around with a friend. Once school is out I will have lost of free time and find out the rules and regs at those two tracks and readjust accordingly. BTW which setup sheet should I use as a base to set my car up? Other than those tracks I run in the desert...great traction as long as I am on salt flats, but I try to stay off those since that salt corrodes everything it touch's. So if I am not on the salt, I am on hard packed, no traction, loose material...two extremes it blows.

[TFrahm]

I limited the rear shocks .030 and used the CR hubs. Never had a bone pop out using losi universals although I agree it does not look good! :eek: They work but lots of guys use the BK2 hubs. Both are options. You need to cut down the axles but it will fit in the box with the CR hubs as well. If you don't race where they tech then you can leave the full axles.

With CVD's they are a touch shorter and I had one popout but I don't run CVD's so have not run into that problem again.

Thanks for clearing that up -- I was just afraid to try it, but I also like to run more droop than some, so that contributed to the situation. Even then, the bones "sort of" fit, but the pin was right at the edge of the outdrive and I wasn't comfortable -- it's good to know that I could go back to the CR hubs if I wanted to. (I hated to give up the vertical ballstud on the rear hubs.)

Thanks again.

[Casper]

For now I think I will run with the BK2 hubs. At the moment I do not race, and the next four months are going to be busy as **** while I finish my last semester of school, and than apply to med school. So the most I will do is hit those two tracks that I posted, and just some running around with a friend. Once school is out I will have lost of free time and find out the rules and regs at those two tracks and readjust accordingly. BTW which setup sheet should I use as a base to set my car up? Other than those tracks I run in the desert...great traction as long as I am on salt flats, but I try to stay off those since that salt corrodes everything it touch's. So if I am not on the salt, I am on hard packed, no traction, loose material...two extremes it blows.

Here are too good setups to try.

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Files/LOSA0032_Setup_Truhe-2010Nats.pdf

or

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/setuptriplexcr/TripleXCR_Casper_OCRCRaceway2009.pdf

Both kind of approach things a little different but both work great. Depends on driving style as to which one will work better for you.

[jpucci13]

Thanks again. I am ordering all my parts on next Thursday, once they all arrive I will set the car up while I am putting all the goods on. Will let you know how I make out.

[jpucci13]

Well here I am bored...so why not get some more input. Does anyone have any experience with Tekin motors and ESC? I was going to run with an xcelorin system until I read all the horror stories on the boards. Thinking I am going to run with a Tekin 10.5 brushless sensored combo, anyone have some thoughts on this?

[Briguy]

All I run is Tekin and IMO the best out there . They are very reliable , adjustable , and fast . Xcelorin systems are good , but since they do not offer any support after the warranty. Is done tells me they do not believe in their own product . Tekin supports their systems no matter the age .

[jpucci13]

Thats good to hear, thank you Bri.

[squarehead]

Do you guys all run the Losi diff with the bronze slip shims in it or old school with the diff rings glued to the outdrives and the slack shims on the outside of the diff unit? I have not ever seen a "slip shim" in a diff like that (I'm new to the CR), and I'm not sure I like anything intended to slip in a properly built diff.

TIA,


doug

[Casper]

There are lots of diffs that don't lock the main ring. I use a little clear grease between the outdrive and brass shim and the brash shim and the steel ring. Works great.

[magnus]

I run my old xxx on carpet with foams. After about five runs the diff breaks down. Anyone had simular problem? Would it help with the xxx-cr diff? Can I put the copper shim and diffplate on my old outdrive?

[Briguy]

I run my old xxx on carpet with foams. After about five runs the diff breaks down. Anyone had simular problem? Would it help with the xxx-cr diff? Can I put the copper shim and diffplate on my old outdrive?

What do you mean breaks down ? Are you melting the diff gear ?

[Casper]

Yes you can put CR diff rings on your old outdrives.

You need to make sure you slipper is set to give before the diff does. On high traction surface like carpet it is super criticle you get the diff and slipper setup properly. That much power to the ground and you will eat through diffs without the slipper there to protect it.

[magnus]

Well, it doesn't melt. It just feels dry and noisy, or not smooth. However it only takes 10 minutes to rebuild it, new grease on the balls :D and it's like new again. I'm pretty sure the slipper is set looser than the diff.

I'll give the cr rings a try, maybe the diff will run a bit longer then. Thanks for the quick reply.

[lv4sndz]

So does anyone have a setup for a mid motor XXX-CR or a good starting point??? Im at a loss as to what to start this car out with for a setup....its a PSI chassis car if that makes a difference.
Mike G.

[Razer]

So does anyone have a setup for a mid motor XXX-CR or a good starting point??? Im at a loss as to what to start this car out with for a setup....its a PSI chassis car if that makes a difference.
Mike G.

Actually, the setup used for the rear motor works really well for mid as well, but you'd want to play around with the weight distribution. A buddy of mine is really quick even on loose surface with his CR2. He runs an alu chassis, and weighs in at a monstrous 1850-1900 grams.....

[lv4sndz]

So wich one would you suggest then??????
Mike G.

[lv4sndz]

Actually, the setup used for the rear motor works really well for mid as well, but you'd want to play around with the weight distribution. A buddy of mine is really quick even on loose surface with his CR2. He runs an alu chassis, and weighs in at a monstrous 1850-1900 grams.....

The other problem is im the only one racing a XXX-cr at my local track. I've been out of the off road game for alittle bit and having a little bit of a problem trying to get this car to handle well. Plus not having anyone to bounce ideas off sucks also cause every one is running pretty much running the same cars. So any help at all will be much appreciated

[AnthonyF]

I would start with this setup, Makes the car come alive IMO


FRONT:
Toe: +1 (0)
Ride Height: 24mm
Camber: -1 (-1.5) degree
Caster: stock-30*
Sway bar: no
Oil: 25wt (27.5 w/ Orange spring)
Piston: 56
Spring: Red (Orange w/ 27.5)
Limiters: none, unscrew shock bottoms 5 turns
Spindle Height: bottom
Axle Spacer: narrow
Steering Type: Bellcranks with outer hole. Shorten the drag link .060”
Bump Steer: none
Camber Link: 3-B with 3 (2) washers
Shock Location: 3 (2)-Outside
VLA: Long
Front Wing: no

REAR:
Toe: stock
Pivot Support: 3 degrees .060" washer under front of block; .050” washer under rear of block using XXX Alum pivot and BK2 arms-LOSA9800 and hubs
Ride Height: 23.5 (23) mm
Camber: -1 (-1.5) degrees
Rear Hub Spacing: back + .030” further back
Driveshafts/Outdrives: steel/cvd
swaybar: no
Oil: 27.5wt
Piston: 56
Spring: White (Grey)
Limiters: .060"
Camber Link: 3-b (4-5 washers with Trinity hubs)
Shock Location: 1 (2)-Inside
VLA: short

Wing Position/mount: Forward/ low
Body & wing type: XXX-CR
Losi 5000mah LiPo moved all the way forward
Battery Position: forward
Notes: 1/4 oz weight on each side of steering servo, 1/2 oz in front bulkhead with aluminum pivot ( which is an additional 1/4 oz over plastic) 1/2 oz under servo arm and 1-1/2 oz next to RX across from ESC.
If you use a Trinity or old XXX front tower, you only need the front shocks unscrewed 3 turns
Raise the rear tower .060”

Part Numbers....

LOSA9800 - BK2 Rear arms
LOSA9700 - XXX Graphite Fr Arms (optional)
LOSA1620 - Steering Assembly (Bell cranks)
LOSA4149 - XXX Alum Pivot
LOSA2128 - BK2 Rear Hubs
LOSA99201 - Lead Weight
MIP08131 - XXX-CR CVDs

Front to back description of changes (to the best of my ability)

The bellcranks have a solid plastic drag link that runs between the two bellcranks. You need to make a new link using two ball cups and either a long set screw or short tie-rod that is .060 shorter. This results in more low speed steering.

"Lipo moved all the way forward" refers to grinding a small amount of material off of the back side of the servo brace. This is done to allow the battery to sit flush with the front of the battery channel of the chassis.

".060" washer under front of block; .050” washer under rear of block using XXX Alum pivot" - This is done to soften the roll of the rear of the car with out softening the shocks too much that it would hamper the handling of the car over jumps.

"Raise rear Tower .060" - This is done to maintain the correct up-travel due to the pivot support being raised. In order to raise the tower you must dremel down the slot for the long screw that runs through the back of the tower into the transmission case. It does not take much.

"Rear Hubs an additional .030 back" - When you get the alum pivot it allows you to grind the front of it down .030 in order to move the rear arms back. This results in a small reduction in forward traction while making the car more forgiving. In addition when "swinging" the car around 180's the car feels much more stable and less prone to over rotation.

[Casper]

So does anyone have a setup for a mid motor XXX-CR or a good starting point??? Im at a loss as to what to start this car out with for a setup....its a PSI chassis car if that makes a difference.
Mike G.

Check out www.oople.com

A lot of euro setups in the forums over there. You will find many more people on there forum that run mid motor XXX cars there.

[sheldo13]

I am looking for some setup help on my CR, here is a video link do you can see what the track looks like http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mtoaj07r3qw

I am getting some wicked push and general understeer that then suddenly changes to oversteer. The car is just plain hard to drive fast, but does jump well. Most everone uses m3 hole shots with ribs up front. I am working of the kit setup but havent found any improvment yet. Any help would be great

Thanks,

[Razer]

I am looking for some setup help on my CR, here is a video link do you can see what the track looks like http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mtoaj07r3qw

I am getting some wicked push and general understeer that then suddenly changes to oversteer. The car is just plain hard to drive fast, but does jump well. Most everone uses m3 hole shots with ribs up front. I am working of the kit setup but havent found any improvment yet. Any help would be great

Thanks,

The setup posted by AnthonyF is what you want to try:) Works everywhere.

[vicdamone11]

got a question for you guys, im wiring up speedo to my xxx right now. How are you guys running the esc wire to the reciever. Still using the route under the battery? I mocked that up and it feels like my lipo is going to be hitting it really hard. I guess i can just run it over, it just looks real sloppy.

[whoajoe]

Get a wire extension and run the wires up and around the battery, behind the servo, under the servo brace. Gets the wires to look nice and parallel on either side of the battery too :D

[Casper]

got a question for you guys, im wiring up speedo to my xxx right now. How are you guys running the esc wire to the reciever. Still using the route under the battery? I mocked that up and it feels like my lipo is going to be hitting it really hard. I guess i can just run it over, it just looks real sloppy.

A little expensive and some parts with it you don't need but the SCT comes with some neat little wire router parts that allow you to route the wire along the rear shock tower mounts.

http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSB2454

I route the wire under the battery but put some thin foam on top to protect he wire and the batter from moving around in the car.

[lv4sndz]

So i tried the setup that Anthony F posted on the last page and the car is so much nicer to drive. Know my only problem is i have a wicked push coming off the main straight. What would you suggest to remedy this problem. One last thing is i didn't do any weight in the car like the setup says to, not sure if that will make a difference.
Mike G.

[Frank Root]

So i tried the setup that Anthony F posted on the last page and the car is so much nicer to drive. Know my only problem is i have a wicked push coming off the main straight. What would you suggest to remedy this problem. One last thing is i didn't do any weight in the car like the setup says to, not sure if that will make a difference.
Mike G.

The weight will make a big difference, I would try that for sure. 100lbs in a Nascar is equal to less than 2oz in an RC car, it makes a huge difference.

[lv4sndz]

The weight will make a big difference, I would try that for sure. 100lbs in a Nascar is equal to less than 2oz in an RC car, it makes a huge difference.

So you think even though its a mid engine XXX-CR i should put all that weight in the chassis???
Mike G.

[AnthonyF]

You should def put the weight in the front imo, big difference in turning

[Frank Root]

So you think even though its a mid engine XXX-CR i should put all that weight in the chassis???
Mike G.

I am not too sure about a mid engine setup...I really don't have any experience with it.

[Razer]

Originally Posted by lv4sndz
So you think even though its a mid engine XXX-CR i should put all that weight in the chassis???
Mike G.

Definitely. It calms down the car a lot, but you will have to work a bit on weight distribution though. One of my race buddys stays true to a AC CR2 kit, his has an Alu chassis and weighs in at 1800gr :S:S:S But it works REALLY well!!

[vicdamone11]

This may sound dumb, but how do i know which washer is .50 & .60. I dont own a caliper, are the gold washers .60s? Im about to raise my pivot & rear shock tower.

[Briguy]

Buy a caliper , they are one of the many tools that make setting up a car easy . You can buy them for around $20

[lv4sndz]

So the tune that Anthony posted on the other page worked like a charm. I added weight to the front end per the setup sheet and that seamed to make the pushing at the end of the straight to a minimum. What servo that's a decent price would you recommend for a 2wd buggy? Thanks again for the help guys again.
Mike G.

[Casper]

For ball stud spacing we almost always use the small gold washer. They are .030. The large gold washer is the same thickness by the way.

For the plastic spacers. they come in all sizes from .030, .050, .060 and larger for the shocks spacers.

I use this nice 4" digital calipers from Harbor Frieght. $15

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-digital-caliper-47256.html

If you want to go super cheap they have 6" plastic vernier calipers. A little harder to read but get the job done. $1.99

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-utility-caliper-7914.html

[jpucci13]

Does anyone make an all gear differential for the xxx buggy? I am well over this ball diff stuff and want it out. If there is something out there that I can use, please toss the part numbers up for everything that it will take to convert this abomination.

[TFrahm]

Does anyone make an all gear differential for the xxx buggy? I am well over this ball diff stuff and want it out. If there is something out there that I can use, please toss the part numbers up for everything that it will take to convert this abomination.

The losi XXX transmission, including the ball diff is one of the better trannys in RC racing, so you must be doing something wrong if you are having that much trouble..?

However, if you want to go to a gear diff, the best way would be to go on eBay and look for a complete tranny for either the LOSI Desert Truck or the LOSI XXX-SCT -- both of these have the gear diff and the special tranny case required. You should be able to pick up a complete tranny for around $25-30 -- MUCH less than the cost of all the parts to build your own...

[jpucci13]

Good to know thank you for the information. As far as this tranny being one of the best, that may very well be, but the constant service required to keep it smooth is not cost effective in the least bit. I am going to buy another set of parts to rebuild it and if I can get more than 2 weeks out of it this time than I may not change, otherwise hello gears. The problem I am having is with this tranny chewing up thrust bearings. It is not being over tightened, I am breaking it in before driving it, and checking the tightness after my first run; however, I have gone through 2 sets of thrusts and dont like the looks of the carbides after 2 runs. In the carbide area it seems like there is a lot worn material mixed with the grease, and the thrusts disintegrated. If anyone has advice I am all ears.

[Trevor Williams]

dont EVER swap the ball diff out :D just order some B-Fast RC pro driver kits.....Fred's parts will outlast stock pieces 10-1 hands down.


http://www.bfastrc.com/

[Briguy]

dont EVER swap the ball diff out :D just order some B-Fast RC pro driver kits.....Fred's parts will outlast stock pieces 10-1 hands down.


http://www.bfastrc.com/

+1 , The best diff setup there is !

[Razer]

My diff tackled 440 laps of high grip carpet racing yesterday and about 350 on Thursday... With an 8,5, that ain't too bad.

Slipper, diffadjustment, and having balls to match your rings, and it's never really a problem.

[jpucci13]

Ahhh, some good input, better than telling me I am screwed up when it comes down to the stock parts being pos. Thanks for the info and I will order a setup, give it a shot, and have the gear diff that is in the mail as back up.

[Casper]

Nothing wrong with the stock parts but Bfast stuff is nice.

[Razer]

Ahhh, some good input, better than telling me I am screwed up when it comes down to the stock parts being pos. Thanks for the info and I will order a setup, give it a shot, and have the gear diff that is in the mail as back up.

The most important part is to build it and adjust it right. Build it wrong, and the B-fast stuff won't help you at all;)

When you're done rebuilding, and put the diff in the car, tighten the slipper all the way. Tighten the diff to the point where you can feel the diff action get slightly harder, then hold one wheel and the spur. You should not be able to rotate the other wheel, if so, the diff is too loose.

I nice rule of thumb is to have the diff as loose as possible, but without slip. If the diff slips just a bit, and your slipper doesn't, then your diff is gone in a jiffy...

When you're done with the diff, the slipper is next. Loosen it all out, and then tighten it after the following tests. Hold both rear wheels with your feet, and with a punch of throttle, it shouldn't be able to lift the nose off the ground. That's a good base adjustment for me, anyway.

[jpucci13]

Sounds like a plan, and that is how I set the last 2, but the thrusts died fast. Only difference is that when I held my right tire I could turn the left, but it was difficult. As far as the slipper, I brought it in 2 full turns and started to bring it in slowly, marking the spur and slipper pad to ensure that it was the slipper slipping when it started getting close to being set.

[liam]

Hello All.

How do I fit the hydra drive to my xxx-cr as there does not seem to be enough room on the shaft for a bolt?

Thanks for the help

[magnus]

First of all you need a different gearcover. The old original one to the xxx in plastic. Then I think not sure though, you need the old motorplate to go with the cover. Regarding the spring you need a short silver spring. But when you have all that, it should work;)

[Briguy]

You also need a hydra-drive spur gear , at least remove half the slipper if not all of it . Been to long to remember the exact parts .

Why in the world would you put the hydra-drive when the double slipper is so much better ?

[liam]

Cheers for the help

Found the short spring and have now installed the hydra on the XXX.

Should be good :)

[jpucci13]

Well I am once again in need of assistance. I brought my xxxcr buggy body and wing to the closest hobby shop around, which is about 1 hour round trip. I asked the owner if he knew any painters and he said that he paints them himself. Well he painted my buggy and it looks like crap so he did not charge me; however, I would like another body painted. It looks ok for the little crappy shop I run at, due to there never being anyone running when I am there. Anyway, I am looking for someone to paint a body for me. Just pm me with the price you are asking and the phone number of the hobby shop closest to you. At that point I will buy the body and you can pick it up, paint it, then put on ebay with a buy it now price (including shipping) and I will buy it once you tell me when you plan on putting it up. Sorry for all the drawn out post, but I really need a body to put on this bugger. Also an update, thanks to all with the advice and part numbers, I now have a xxxcr with BK2 rear end setup, xxxsct gear diff (which rocks), and a mamba max pro with a castle 5600 motor. My 10t now has the 8t tires and rims, m2c clutch, alum towers and shock caps, traxxas carb, and no more owb problems. I also got my rc10t4 with full carbon fiber chassis, factory team shocks, mamba max pro esc and neu castle 5600 motor and I also have titanium turnbuckles for the xxxcr and t4. Once again thank you all and please let me know if any painters are interested.

[BUG]

Does anyone have a ozite/carpet setup??

[dragon26]

Hi, I saw on a web site the other night a carbon fibre plate that sat between the gearbox and the motor plate which moved the motor over to the right by a couple of mm(center's the motor). I forgot to bookmark the web site.

Has anyone seen them or know where they are available?

Thanks.

[Razer]

Does anyone have a ozite/carpet setup??

Depends on the tires, really. I run the setup from the Roar nationals, but with 40wt oil front, 35 rear, green springs front, yellow rear. Works really well with the mods from the team. I have a big infomail if you give me your adress by PM.

On carpet we run cut minipin(slick) with additive, also works quite well with uncut pins and no additive.

[BUG]

Razer u have pm. Thx

[bill k]

i see set ups for loose or dirt by the hundreds but my track and the only one i attend is indoor clay. everyone is running pink compound tires as am i usualy bar codes or suburbs. the track usualy has it all big jumps, little ones,fast strait and lots of hard turns. i find as i am running box setup that the xxx-cr buggy doesnt want to steer well off throttle going in and never realy wants to put the power down and never realy sticks. the car feels like im runing on dust everywhere yet so many of the long timers seem to keep their buggies planted. i see losi's that pop weelies but the stock box setup would never it would just spin like a thrashing machine and im not even running much power compared to say mod buggy. where should i start

[bill k]

as i cruise the pit at my local track i gaze over all the xxx-cr's looking to see what springs they are running and its no use they all seem to be running an aftermarket shock. looks fancy dark color with black springs even a losi guy that runs for the team has thes shocks any idea what these are

[Briguy]

Bill ,sounds like you run on the same type of track I do . Go to www.petitrc.com and click on setup , then Losi and you will find clay setups and I suggest trying Casper's setup .

[bill k]

Bill ,sounds like you run on the same type of track I do . Go to www.petitrc.com and click on setup , then Losi and you will find clay setups and I suggest trying Casper's setup .

thanks alot bud that site has tons of useful info.

[Briguy]

No problem , hope you get your car dialed in .

[Cutlass454]

I just picked up a used CR a couple days ago and managed to get some track time. I'm coming from using an SC truck, so wheeling a buggy is new to me. I've been back into RC for a little over a year now and having a blast. Currently, I'm running the buggy with an MMP and a Fantom 17.5 motor and plan on running stock buggy until I can get some more wheel time.

Can someone suggest a good starting point for gearing? I run at Proving Grounds Raceway, which is a high bite indoor track. Also, does anyone have a good starting point from a setup standpoint?

I'm looking forward to trying something that's not an SC truck.

[scdriver]

I just picked up a used CR a couple days ago and managed to get some track time. I'm coming from using an SC truck, so wheeling a buggy is new to me. I've been back into RC for a little over a year now and having a blast. Currently, I'm running the buggy with an MMP and a Fantom 17.5 motor and plan on running stock buggy until I can get some more wheel time.

Can someone suggest a good starting point for gearing? I run at Proving Grounds Raceway, which is a high bite indoor track. Also, does anyone have a good starting point from a setup standpoint?

I'm looking forward to trying something that's not an SC truck.

do you have the set-up sheet from the manual? thats usually a good starting point.

[TFrahm]

I just picked up a used CR a couple days ago and managed to get some track time. I'm coming from using an SC truck, so wheeling a buggy is new to me. I've been back into RC for a little over a year now and having a blast. Currently, I'm running the buggy with an MMP and a Fantom 17.5 motor and plan on running stock buggy until I can get some more wheel time.

Can someone suggest a good starting point for gearing? I run at Proving Grounds Raceway, which is a high bite indoor track. Also, does anyone have a good starting point from a setup standpoint?

I'm looking forward to trying something that's not an SC truck.

Without boost, I'm running 32:76 on my CR...

For a setup, try:
http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Files/LOSA0032_Setup_Truhe-2010Nats.pdf
or
http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Files/XXX_CR_MattChambers.pdf

I'm running pretty much the Truhe setup on my CR -- Or I should say I WAS running that setup -- this weekend is my first weekend with my 22... :)

[ammo_dawg_1]

Just got a xxx-cr and would like some help with the set up. I am running a sidewinder sct with 3800kv 4 pole motor. would like some gearing options and TIRE selection. Im running on an indoor clay mix track at 702 raceway in vegas. thanks guys for your help.

[budget_bob]

looking for hop up rod ends.... differnt colors other then the losi black/grey

[magnus]

Will the new aluminium 4 deg toe in block for SCT fit right in to my xxx? Still inch screws etc...?

[DannyDodge]

hey guys i just picked up a xxx xxb?

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqEOKikE3C3GbS7KBN0PbCF!zQ~~_12.JPG

i know its a older model but was wondering what current parts crossover?


and will the transmission hold up to brushless power?

[cannondale1974]

Hey guys, just picked up a XXX Spec buggy and had a few questions on tire wear. The track we run on is very dusty, rutted and fairly hard due to the lack of rain recently.

I bought a set of Big shots (red) and Goosebumps (Green- super softs) and ran them tonight. Buggy handled absolutely awesome with the new tires, I think the Big shots actually gripped better as it had a little bit of push with those. After 2 batteries with each set of tires (about 30 minutes run time on each set of tires) I could tell they didn't handle as good, the buggy was actually getting loose again and sort of hard to drive.

Is it common for tires to only last 30 minutes or maybe our track surface is super hard on tires? Also, I really don't drive it that aggressive and spin up the wheels on exit. Just curious what you think, thanks guys!

[L@gger]

Hello guys. I have measured my drive height and found out that its 5 mm bellow my config. Could it be caused by aging process of springs? Or by new o-rings that are little closer than older ones? (arms are running great). Thank you.

[magnus]

Yes, 30 minutes on bigshot is about the time you can expect. Try prolines caliber they last longer although they might not be as fast as bigshot. We run them a lot in sweden on simular tracks to yours. I run a setup simular to the ROAR national setup but with medium wheelbase. Works great even with worn tyres.

[L@gger]

Hey guys, just picked up a XXX Spec buggy and had a few questions on tire wear. The track we run on is very dusty, rutted and fairly hard due to the lack of rain recently.

I bought a set of Big shots (red) and Goosebumps (Green- super softs) and ran them tonight. Buggy handled absolutely awesome with the new tires, I think the Big shots actually gripped better as it had a little bit of push with those. After 2 batteries with each set of tires (about 30 minutes run time on each set of tires) I could tell they didn't handle as good, the buggy was actually getting loose again and sort of hard to drive.

Is it common for tires to only last 30 minutes or maybe our track surface is super hard on tires? Also, I really don't drive it that aggressive and spin up the wheels on exit. Just curious what you think, thanks guys!

That depends on tyre used on surface. I can tell you if you get calibers you will be able to train hours on them with a relatively same grip level. But you wont be as fast as with studs or bow ties. I personally havent found any situation where are calibers better but as they are wearing very slow its ideal training tyre.

[ChrisL]

Hi guys

I haven't raced electric off road for over ten years and need some advice on the XXX for high grip conditions. When I raced last night, the weather had been a bit wet and the clay was very tacky to say the least (the tires were caked in clay at the end of a run (so I guess it was clay on clay action). Running as close as I could to the Truhue/Root setup, the car lacked steering particularly on throttle where as the 22 guys seemed to be turning inside me easily. In the dry dusty conditions I think it will be great however if anyone has any ideas for the high grip it would be appreciated.

Thanks

[Chris Wolfson]

Hi guys

I haven't raced electric off road for over ten years and need some advice on the XXX for high grip conditions. When I raced last night, the weather had been a bit wet and the clay was very tacky to say the least (the tires were caked in clay at the end of a run (so I guess it was clay on clay action). Running as close as I could to the Truhue/Root setup, the car lacked steering particularly on throttle where as the 22 guys seemed to be turning inside me easily. In the dry dusty conditions I think it will be great however if anyone has any ideas for the high grip it would be appreciated.

Thanks

Pm me your email addy and I will send you a setup I ran on high bite. Tire choice is huge and you might not have the right tires as well.

[65BAJA]

I just picked up a XXX-CR and want to start racing buggy. Is the Nano tech 6600 65C a good battery or will it be too heavy? Should I get something a little lighter like the 5300 50C Nanos?

[Casper]

either will be fine but IMO lighter is better in this application. I ran the short pack for the last little while before my 22 came and I really liked how that handled and it is about 200g ligther then most current std stick packs. runtime will not be an issue with either batter.

[Jumpinj]

I run a 5000 65c in mine for stock class xxxcr (need all the punch I can) and it handles great. The xxxcr is my favorite buggy so far, but my 22 should be here today so we will see. I had to ditch my red headed stepchild b4.1 for mod buggy class.

[Frank Root]

I run a 5000 65c in mine for stock class xxxcr (need all the punch I can) and it handles great. The xxxcr is my favorite buggy so far, but my 22 should be here today so we will see. I had to ditch my red headed stepchild b4.1 for mod buggy class.

Let us know how it goes!

[BUG]

I need help for carpet setup. Like the car to be more nimble with less push on power.

[Casper]

Check out this link. there are some carpet setups a little past half way down the page in the "indoor" section. Most of us have not run much if at all on carpet.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/SetupSheetsLosiTripleXCR.html

[mxturd]

I just bought a buggy from a guy and from what i can tell its a BK1, it has the blue ball caps, blue wheels, and some other blue stuff. My question is that I have seen the BK2 arms upgrade on here and before I order I wanted to make sure i got the right stuff. First is the LOSA2129-CR Rear Hubs, the LOSA9800- BK2 Rear Arms, and the LOSA 4126- Pivot Blosk set. If there is anything anyone else can think of for me to upgrade this old buggy let me know. Thanks in advance. Doug

[Briguy]

Those are the right parts . The BK2 is a great buggy and still very competitive .

[Casper]

I just bought a buggy from a guy and from what i can tell its a BK1, it has the blue ball caps, blue wheels, and some other blue stuff. My question is that I have seen the BK2 arms upgrade on here and before I order I wanted to make sure i got the right stuff. First is the LOSA2129-CR Rear Hubs, the LOSA9800- BK2 Rear Arms, and the LOSA 4126- Pivot Blosk set. If there is anything anyone else can think of for me to upgrade this old buggy let me know. Thanks in advance. Doug

If you have a BK1 All you would need is the hubs and arms. Is the tranny a black or gray case?

[mxturd]

Black Case

[Casper]

then all you need is the arms and hubs. If you do use the CR hubs the bones will be quite close to coming out of the outdrives but really never had an issue with the bones poping out. I put .03 internal limiters in my shocks. If you use BK2 or MF2 rear hubs you don't have this happen. The CR hubs move the axle out about .070

[mxturd]

Thanks guys. This thread has been great

[O.G.]

then all you need is the arms and hubs. If you do use the CR hubs the bones will be quite close to coming out of the outdrives but really never had an issue with the bones poping out. I put .03 internal limiters in my shocks. If you use BK2 or MF2 rear hubs you don't have this happen. The CR hubs move the axle out about .070

I have a few similar questions about my buggy I bought about 8 years ago and have sitting in the closet.

Based on the posts above I think it's a BK-1: all stock it has blue engine guard, front skid plate and other parts, the trans case is black. It appears to have all graphite chassis and a-arms.

I want to race this in novice class this year. Is there anything else I should do to get it ready? Will the transmission handle BL power? It still has the old Trinity green monster in it. So far I've rebuilt the shocks. Any advice is appreciated.

[Frank Root]

I have a few similar questions about my buggy I bought about 8 years ago and have sitting in the closet.

Based on the posts above I think it's a BK-1: all stock it has blue engine guard, front skid plate and other parts, the trans case is black. It appears to have all graphite chassis and a-arms.

I want to race this in novice class this year. Is there anything else I should do to get it ready? Will the transmission handle BL power? It still has the old Trinity green monster in it. So far I've rebuilt the shocks. Any advice is appreciated.

Car should be fine. You will enjoy a BL systems, but other than that, have fun. Then once those skills start coming back, you can upgrade to the TLR 22 :D

[O.G.]

Car should be fine. You will enjoy a BL systems, but other than that, have fun. Then once those skills start coming back, you can upgrade to the TLR 22 :D

Should I replace the A-arms and hubs with BK-2 ones, or does that matter? Some of the parts listed in an above post aren't available at my LHS.

[Casper]

We normally ran the stock setting so no real need to upgrade unless you break a stock arm.