XXX-T CR 2WD Racing Truck

[Casper]

If you have any questions or need setup help for the XXX-TCR or any XXX-T truck. Here is the place to ask. Share setup tips, hop-up modifications that help make you go faster!

[Mac]

I just picked up this truck and plan to run indoors for the first time this winter. Any parts that I should upgrade to right away?

[Casper]

The truck comes pretty fully loaded. I would recommend titanium ball studs for the rear hubs, rear shock tower and front inner camber link locations.

Although many have had luck with the EA3 T plates I prefer the graphite one. Run the EA3 one until it wears out or breaks and then put a graphite one on. That is pretty much it. Put some track appropriate tires on it and go have some fun!

[Chris Wolfson]

I second the Ti ballstuds for the rear hubs. Make sure those are always tight and you shouldn't have an issue with breakage.

[Casper]

Yeah for the rear hubs use some blue threadlock.

http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA99202

If you can let it set for a couple hours so it cures and it should lock the ball stud in place. If you can't let it set for that long make sure you check the ball studs after every run to make sure they don't back out. If they get loose they will break. If they stay in there tight they will last a long time!

[Mac]

Awesome - I will get the parts on order!

Thanks Guys!!

[Casper]

You will want short neck long ball studs for the rear shock tower.

Long and med normal neck for the rear hub

Long normal neck for the inner front camber link.

Here is a link to the losi ball studs for part numbers.

http://search.horizonhobby.com/index.jsp?sid=12314C627CB3&Ne=500&Ntt=ball+stud&N=685

long = .380
med = .250

[Matt Chambers]

Here is a link to my XXXT-CR setup. http://losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/XXXTCR_MattChambers.pdf

I think it is a good starting point for most tracks.

If anyone has questions please don't hesitate to ask.

Matt

[BigBlock61]

What's the difference between long and short for the VLA arms? How does it make the truck handle? Oh by the way, mines an MF2.

Also I've always been taught that you hold you're throttle position during a jump, so now it's second nature to me. The problem I'm having is that I've gone from a stock truck class to the mod truck class. With a 6.5 motor in the MF2, holding the throttle in a jump sends the nose skyward and it flips over before I have time to react. Is there a way to setup the truck so it won't do this? I was thinking about using heavier springs in the rear. going from a yellow to maybe a red or orange spring. I'm thinking that this will cause a donkey kick situation that might counteract the torque of the motor and keep it level. What would you guys suggest?

[MikeFriery]

Really, the only way to prevent the nose skying while on throttle is to let off. Accelerate up the face of the jump, let off, then blip the throttle right as you take off.

Long VLA arms basically makes the suspension softer, and short VLA stiffer.

[obzelite]

honestly i'd suggest practicing to not keep your throttle position the same.
changing your car setup to fix a bad habit could mean a bad handling/slow car for the rest of the track.

running mod and doing big jumps means nailing the landing and learning throttle/brake control to change the cars pitch in the air is all part of that.

don't mess with a setup thats working, just practice jumping.

[Casper]

holding the throttle in the air will usually cause a the nose to stay up. In mod you really need to learn throttle control in the air. More thorttle will keep the nose up (you learned this already), hitting the breaks should bring the nose down. I tend to let off just as the car goes airborn. Try to get the nose down. IF the nose is too far down blip the trottle a little to bring it back up. Play with the throttle in the air to see how the car reacts. Practice hitting the break just as you come off the jump and see what happens. hit the breaks at different times through the jump to see how it effects things. Different jumps will cause the truck to do different things in the air so you need to play around with different approaches and throttle control in the air to get the truck to land a little nose down. Have fun with it and play around. Soon it will become second nature.

[LOSIGUY]

If you are having a nose up problem in the air I have found a few ways to help. If you have a good run at the jump, just let off the throttle about 3/4 up the jump face and the truck will launch nice and level. If the jump is right out of a corner you can accelerate all the way up and stab the brakes as soon as the truck is air born and the results will be the same. If you are racing on carpet it is important to do it this way because corrections right before you land will not work because the foam tires are so light.

Losiguy.

[Justin Doyle]

How about when you land a jump nicely and the whole truck kind of squats and spins out, doesnt stay planted. What adjustments can prevent this?

[teamcarpetfire]

hey guys when i use reverse on my xxx-t mf1 the front wheels turn side to side by them selve:confused: whats worn out? the ball cups and ball studs?

[Casper]

With the car on (servo powered) is there a lot of slop in the front end?

It is not all that uncommon for a ball stud to back out and this can cause a lot of slop. The ball cups to ball studs will cause a little slop and the bell crank that rides on the hinge pin can get sloppy as well and all this adds up. I would look real close at all the ball studs and see if you can find a loose one.

[Casper]

How about when you land a jump nicely and the whole truck kind of squats and spins out, doesnt stay planted. What adjustments can prevent this?

What pistons and oil you have in the back. This tends to be a pack thing? If the rear shocks don't have enough pack to absorbe the landing the chassis will bounce that this can cause the condition you have described.

[BigBlock61]

For everybody, thanks for the replies. I'm sort of relieved that the problem is with me. I've been running stock truck forever and I learned how to drive that way. Now I'll learn how to drive a mod truck. Again, to everybody, thanks. Now, time to go have some fun! :D

[LOSIGUY]

How about when you land a jump nicely and the whole truck kind of squats and spins out, doesnt stay planted. What adjustments can prevent this?

That usually happens because the rear of your truck is slapping the surface hard. you can use thicker shock oil, or sometimes if you stay on the throttle the truck will drive thru it. I like to use the throttle because if you stiffen up your rear suspention the truck may not work right on other parts of the track.

[Justin Doyle]

What pistons and oil you have in the back. This tends to be a pack thing? If the rear shocks don't have enough pack to absorbe the landing the chassis will bounce that this can cause the condition you have described.

I am running 30 wt with Orange pistons

[Casper]

30 wt is too light for the orange pistions. Either go up to at least 35 (I am running 37.5 to 40 wt with orange in my truck depending on weather and track) or use the red (56) piston and this should help out with this problem. The truck should handle better as well. That light in the rear shocks will allow the rear end to roll too much.

[Showtime]

The truck comes pretty fully loaded. I would recommend titanium ball studs for the rear hubs, rear shock tower and front inner camber link locations.

Although many have had luck with the EA3 T plates I prefer the graphite one. Run the EA3 one until it wears out or breaks and then put a graphite one on. That is pretty much it. Put some track appropriate tires on it and go have some fun!


Casper, I was just wondering why you recommend the Graphite Plate. Is it merely a strength issue, or does it somehow affect the truck's handling?

[neondreamz8]

need some help from the pros, im lookin for some indoor setup sheets for our upcoming carpet truck series i took second last year with my now xxx-t cr... im runnin green foams and have a xcelorin 3.5 sencored system.... need some tips cause i cant let the T4`s keep runnin away:(

[Casper]

Casper, I was just wondering why you recommend the Graphite Plate. Is it merely a strength issue, or does it somehow affect the truck's handling?

Purely for strength. I have had a lot better luck with graphite t-plates then I had with EA3.

[Showtime]

Purely for strength. I have had a lot better luck with graphite t-plates then I had with EA3.

Gotcha, strangely enough, I broke the EA3 plate and replaced it with Graphite about a month ago! I guess I'll just have to claim I did it on purpose... :cool:

[Y2KGTP]

I bought a Used Speed-T cheap to try out a few things. I figure if it looks like it will work well, I'll pick up a XXX-T CR and perform a similar mod.

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/825/img4686z.jpg

[Justin Doyle]

Was Truhe running Matt's setup when he ran truck? What brought on the stack of washers under the rear hub ballstud and the rear upper hole? How does this affect the handling of the truck?

[Briguy]

Y2KGTP , you have a pm .

Also , how do you like the truck with the mod ?

[Y2KGTP]

Y2KGTP , you have a pm .

Also , how do you like the truck with the mod ?

Replied to the PM. So far so good on the truck. but the real test is when I can finally get it out the track for some 13.5T racing......will be a few weeks, we have a kid on the way any week\day now. My luck I get to the track and have to pack up to go to the hospital. :D

The nice thing is that I only needed to buy a 11$ part to do the mid motor conversion. With the exception of the B-fast RC ball diff parts of course.

[Matt Sunderlage]

Here is a link to my XXXT-CR setup. http://losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/XXXTCR_MattChambers.pdf

I think it is a good starting point for most tracks.

If anyone has questions please don't hesitate to ask.

Matt

I thought I was the only person to run the "huge stack of washers".

Our set-ups are very close...

:D

[Briguy]

30 wt is too light for the orange pistions.


I have a question then . I looked at Matt`s setup that he posted and he is running 30 with orange pistons . Why is 30 too light ? Is this just your opinion or is it something most find out when trying ? I`m just curious as I been away from 1/10 for a while and getting back into it .

http://losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/XXXTCR_MattChambers.pdf

[Casper]

On a track without large jumps this might be fine but I feel there in not enough pack with this rear end. I am sure it is preference but if the truck is bouncing more pack will help with this.

[underway]

Will the MF2 body fit on the CR? If not what is the part number for the CR body.

[Casper]

Yes the MF2 body will fit on the TCR but you need to drill the front two holes further forward on the body. Truhe still runs the MF2 body on his TCR.

Here is the TCR body if you wanted to run that as well.

http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA8031

[underway]

thks casper

[jrxt]

Can someone please tell me piston size small to big ala color.

Thanks

[Briguy]

Small to big as follows:

Natural - #60
Black - #57
Red - #56
Orange - #55
Blue- #54

[neondreamz8]

the main problem im havin with my truck on the carpet track is comin into a fast 90 degree corner that has a fast exit is when i comein i have a push on exit i loop out... i tried driving style but im way to slow then everyone else ive tried detups and and i cant find one to work.... the tire i run are by a guy who makes the tires for all the guys who race with us so not much i can do there... the only thing were aloud to do to the tires is paragon:confused:

[Briguy]

What track do you race at ? It`s been many years since racing on carpet and I`d love to carpet race again . What setup and tires are you running ?

[Casper]

Have you tried sway bars on the truck yet?

[Heavy B]

I was thinking roll bars would make the chassis stay too flat. I've raced on a track this summer that had 5 180's and found something that worked really well. Try using short camber links to allow the chassis to roll quickly, and a lot of washers under the ball stud to decrease the camber gain while rotating. Maybe, outer/upper VLA with 6+ washers and camber link 3-D. I've never raced carpet off-road, but a lot of 1/12th & TC. Paragon makes a huge tuning difference. Just as much as a 1/4 of the tire can make huge impacts on the track. But, try to get the chassis working first as Paragon loses it's effect thruout the run, then use as a fine tune.

[Casper]

Extreme high bite we tend to use sway bars to take away traction. Staying flat is a good thing for high bite so it will not traction roll.

More washers under the outside ball studs results in MORE camber gain as the suspension compresses. You have basically gone the complete oppsite I would have gone. I would have tried to stiffen up the suspension to keep the truck as flat as possible and added steering as needed.

[Heavy B]

Well, I don't know but it worked. The car/truck would actually rotate, while rolling, around the 180 rather than whipping around; drive around the 180. I think the stiff set-up would just make it whip around corner and take the control out of it. I'm always experimenting with geometry changes, just one thing at a time though you can get a vehicle out whack in a hurry making too many changes at once.

[Casper]

Very true. If you found something that worked for you then that is great. That is what it is all about. I think you are taking the right approach in trying stuff. Carpet with offroad cars is not all that popular so you are kind of your own to come up with a good setup.

[neondreamz8]

Very true. If you found something that worked for you then that is great. That is what it is all about. I think you are taking the right approach in trying stuff. Carpet with offroad cars is not all that popular so you are kind of your own to come up with a good setup.

yeah but here on the wisconsin illinois border when winter gets here we gotta find somewhere to play.... i would try the sway bars but they were on back-order for like 6 months and i gave up on them.... but ill give some more things a try..... if you ever around monroe, wi in the winter on a saturday come to cheese city xtreme rc for some indoor stadium truck, sedan, sct, and oval

[Briguy]

I`d be interested in coming up that way to do some racing . My local track [LH] is turning the indoor track into oval for a bit until indoor starts . What tires are you guys running ?

What time does the track open and race start time ?

[murderone]

does anybody prefer the graphite parts to the ea3 generally or do you run both? what parts do you have of each?

[jrxt]

Hey Casper can you thro up your XXXT-CR setup sheet please.

[neondreamz8]

I`d be interested in coming up that way to do some racing . My local track [LH] is turning the indoor track into oval for a bit until indoor starts . What tires are you guys running ?

What time does the track open and race start time ?

https://cheesecityxtremerc.com/ theres are site we have a nice outdoor track also and a dirt oval you can also check out our indoor tracks on you tube, just look under gilleytv.... for indoor we run green compound foam for our truck.... indoor has not started yet were still outdoor

[jrxt]

I've been useing the Dt gear diffs in my XXXT and CR and going back to ball diffs.
What i could use is some diff rebuild tips and and or pointers for the best results and butter like feel.

Thanks,

[Y2KGTP]

I've been useing the Dt gear diffs in my XXXT and CR and going back to ball diffs.
What i could use is some diff rebuild tips and and or pointers for the best results and butter like feel.

Thanks,

I use and recommend Bfast RC stuff...I have the carbide balls, conditioned diff rings and the caged thrust bearing. super smooth.....

http://www.bfastrc.com/

[Heavy B]

I use and recommend Bfast RC stuff...I have the carbide balls, conditioned diff rings and the caged thrust bearing. super smooth.....

http://www.bfastrc.com/


I use them too. Amazing difference from the kit hardware. Sometimes it hard to spend a lot of money on extras like the diff hardware, but bfast stuff is definately worth money.

[Robg]

I also have the Bfast ringd and carbide balls. What else should I replace when rebuilding? Should I change the diff nut and spring? Do I replace them with a stock nut and spring or are there better aftermarket parts for them? Thanks

[Casper]

The sping is fine. I replace my diff nut with every rebuild to make sure it holds it setting. They are cheap and can be purchased separate.

[Nickosclan]

Does any one have any onroad set ups for the XXXT-CR. I sometimes race at hobby town usa on there onroad track when i cant make it out to srs.

[jrxt]

Ok I could really use some input. I race SuperStock Truck and i could use some setup help.
Small tight hibite track. Any (buddy) please chime in.

Thanks,

[Casper]

I take it you race at MHOR? Dustin and Matt arn't around to help? Have you tried there setups. (based off the kit setup?)

You can always try my setup. My cars always worked pretty good when I used to go out that way to visit.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/setuptriplextcr/XXXTCR_Casper_StandardSetup200905.pdf

If you don't want to go those routes. Give us your setup and let us know what the car is doing right and not doing good at!

[Briguy]

Incase some don`t know , there are some good setup tips in the back of the manuals . Goes into detail of what some changes will do . I would start with a base setup like either the kit or one of the pro`s that is closest to your track conditions and go from there .

[jrxt]

Casper Matt and Dustin are very helpful and always there when one needs help.
When you had mentioned you run SS 13.5 i was thinking since that's what i run your setup could be better then matt's mod setup.
If i have been reading correct OCRC is close to the same type of racing.
It's really a drag a few weeks back my son and i with our junk in tow were looking and hoping we would find OCRC but turned off PCH at Beach not Bolsa Chica and missed it.

Casper Thank You,

[Casper]

No problem. MHOR is much tighter then OCRC but I think traction is pretty similar. Give my setup a try and see how you like it. I didn't mean to sound mean or anything in refering you to Dustin and Matt but those guys are pretty good with setups as well.

[murderone]

Does any one have any onroad set ups for the XXXT-CR. I sometimes race at hobby town usa on there onroad track when i cant make it out to srs.
i run yellow rears and green fronts or sometimes pink and either 2.2 rear with gladiators(run down).....speed hawgs hare too small and just spin with my gearing.or speed t wheels with dirt hawgs the soft grippy tires and springs with 40wt fluid are good for on road and mixed surface bashing.....**** knows what its like for racing but the stiffer the springs the less fun IMHO

[Mike Thomas]

I use and recommend Bfast RC stuff...I have the carbide balls, conditioned diff rings and the caged thrust bearing. super smooth.....

http://www.bfastrc.com/

I agree. Bfast has top notch equipment and Fred and Brenda are awesome.

[RcHippie]

I run black pistons in all 4 shocks 40w the front 20w in the rear on the carpit .all the rest is box settings .it works awsome.proline strikers!

[Briguy]

Anyone running the aluminum pivot mounts ? Just curious if they make a difference in handling

[Casper]

I run the XXX-TCR alum pivot on both my buggy and truck as well as the alum front pivot on both cars. They are obviously stonger but they also add weight in good places for the cars. Other then that no real performance difference I know of.

[underway]

Part number for these parts?

[Casper]

Front pivot block

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA4148

Rear pivot. (XXX pivot for the XXX, all gen1 XXX-t and XXX CR with BK2 rear arms.)

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA4149

[Briguy]

Casper beat me to it .

[Y2KGTP]

Can someone please tell me what the ground clearance is for the xxx-t cr truck at full suspension extension?

[Casper]

That will depend on if you have your shock eyelets unscrewed and what shock locations you are running. Can I ask why you are asking?

[Y2KGTP]

That will depend on if you have your shock eyelets unscrewed and what shock locations you are running. Can I ask why you are asking?

This is my Mid-Motor Speed-T that is converted for Off-Road. Different Shocks, different shock towers, Bfast diff, etc. I'm just curious on what I currently have for ground clearance compared to the production truck.

[Casper]

If you have the same arms and hubs/spindles it should have very similar down travel.

[Bajaleo]

Question, I break Titanium balls all the time. I now use captured balls with losi eight steering ends. I space them up with washer and it works awsome. Just FYI:)

[Casper]

Which studs are your breaking? All of them or ones in a specific spot?

[Y2KGTP]

If you have the same arms and hubs/spindles it should have very similar down travel.

Arms and hubs/spindles the same, but the shock towers are different, and the shocks are slightly shorter than a standard xxx-t.

I am keeping upgraded parts to a minimum as this is a test truck, but have graphite front & rear arms ready to go on.

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/825/img4686z.jpg

[Briguy]

Anyone know of any editable setup sheets online ?

[kevin starr]

casper. my codriver and i are in ontario lining up a rental car. we plan on racing at ocrc tonight . dont know if u can make it . but if u do just look for the large guy in black and orange tied dyed shirt with gray beard. hope to see you there. oops just realized jbrl at pegusus today . we will go there instead and race there. cya there

[Justin Doyle]

Editable Sheet

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/setuptriplextcr/TripleXTCR_EditableSetupSheet.pdf

[Briguy]

Thanks ! :)

[BradP]

Just found the Editable sheet also.

[kevin starr]

casper was a pleasure meeting you. thanks for the tips. maybe next time we'll make it to the oc and race there. cya

[Casper]

It is always great to be able to put a face to a name! Glad I could help out a little. Hope you guys had fun at your first JBRL event. Have a safe trip back home and I hope to see you at the track out here again soon!

[murderone]

Does any body have any pics? particularly of the front and rear camber they run as i started running foreign rods and ends for availability reasons. that'd be great.

[Casper]

What do you want to find out with the pictures? What setups we are running? What kind of foreign rods and ends are you using. Did you go with captured ends?

[murderone]

they are losi with captured ball ends. what model? I forget.but very similar length to xxx-t but not quite. so quoting hole positions is hard.
i have made my truck up from a speed t and replaced all parts as i went along with ea3 or graphite so I'm winging it. any tips on tie rod posi's would be good. thanks.

[Casper]

You have all the same holes on that truck we do. Camber link positions will all be the same. The only issue you will have is where there is a verticle ball stud the link height may change just a little due to the captured end versus the ball studs when adding/removing washers to adjust roll centers.

Run the links in all the same places as the setups you are staring out with and then go from there.

[neondreamz8]

so for off road dirt what is the best tire front and rear (and foams) to run on clay with a blue groove and med. to heavy dust outside the racin line

[Briguy]

on clay when wet we run pink slicks then as it dries up 1/2 to full taper pins .

[Heavy B]

I just made the 4th hole in my rear hubs. Anyone out there that runs this hole are you using red or blue locktight to hold the screws in place in the hub?

[bigron]

WOW:eek: Kevin, You took a trip out west huh? Sweet!!

Question for Casper or anyone that can answer:
- Is there a way to put the quick change axles on the front?

[Casper]

As in levers for releasing the front wheels? It would not be easy. I have been thinking about is a while and it would be a completely custom job. So not really.

If you were asking if you can put QC wheels on the truck the CR has this already.

[bigron]

No, I'm talking about having the quick change axles on all four wheels. Thanks

[Briguy]

That would be sweet and been trying to think up an easy way to mod it to do so .

[murderone]

you'd be probably just as good off running a magnetic socket tip in a cordless if you wanted to save time

[Briguy]

I`m not gonna lug around a drill for two nuts . I make too many trips to my car to bring everything in as it is .

[Y2KGTP]

I`m not gonna lug around a drill for two nuts . I make too many trips to my car to bring everything in as it is .

I have a nice little black & decker li-ion screwdriver I use for everything
With Ofna hex drivers. I need to get the wheel nut size still.

[Y2KGTP]

The hex bits are Ofna, and got them from Amain, the drill bits and the screwdriver itself came from Wal-Mart. It's light, compact and strong enough to put a 3" screw threw drywall and a stud to mount wall shelves. I use this for everything.


http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/4752/img4722i.jpg

[zhudlin]

Hey guys, I just got a XXXT-CR. It already has titanium ball studs, all graphite body, Futaba remote, Tazer 12 turn ESC, and a I just put in a new motor. It had a Venom fireball modified 15d and i replaced it with a Speed gems pro 17 turn double i just need to know where to go next, i have been thinking about going brushless. What do you guys think

[murderone]

The hex bits are Ofna, and got them from Amain, the drill bits and the screwdriver itself came from Wal-Mart. It's light, compact and strong enough to put a 3" screw threw drywall and a stud to mount wall shelves. I use this for everything.


http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/4752/img4722i.jpg

I have a bosch one the same,IRWIN have 5/8" socket bit. perfect. fits right in my pocket :D
those hex tips look handy.do ofna sell them? part no?

[TFrahm]

Hey guys, I just got a XXXT-CR. It already has titanium ball studs, all graphite body, Futaba remote, Tazer 12 turn ESC, and a I just put in a new motor. It had a Venom fireball modified 15d and i replaced it with a Speed gems pro 17 turn double i just need to know where to go next, i have been thinking about going brushless. What do you guys think

?? You said your truck has an "all graphite body" -- doesn't sound likely, as a graphite body would be a hand-built one-off sort of thing..? Did you mean graphite CHASSIS? -- if so, then your truck isn't a true XXXT-CR, as the CR's use a longer (about 0.2") chassis that is only available in the new EA3 material...?

But back to your question...

Brushless is almost always a good idea -- low maintenenance, long life, etc.. I would also strongly encourage you to look into LiPo batteries -- better performance, etc..

A key question is what does "go next" really mean? Are you going racing offroad? -- that is a relatively fixed class structure, etc... Or - are you just "bashing" on open dirt or going for "speed runs" on a parking lot...? Every different purpose will have different needs...

[zhudlin]

Good to know. I am just going off of what the kid I bought it from told me, I would assume that it is just the chassis. As far as what I am doing with the truck, I am really only bashing and doing speed runs. What would you suggest as far as a LiPo setup.

[TFrahm]

For bashing and speed runs, You can go with a good sensorless brushless setup (you don't need the smoother low speed performance a sensored unit offers) -- if you think you might race it, then you should go ahead and get a sensored unit "just in case"... Don't go crazy on motor -- even an 8.5 will be very quick (we normally race with 13.5 or 10.5's)...

For LiPo, I personally like the SMC 5000mAh/28C 2S packs... I've not tried the LOSI LiPo packs (wrong balance connector for my charger)...

[murderone]

for brushless i had a sidewinder 5700kv and now prefer the novak 4000kv with 78t spur and 25t pinion and am grinning from ear to ear. I also only run cost effective integy intellect cells and trinity gp nimh cells it seems to be the best gearing ratio i can find and is quick all-round #basher only#

[Briguy]

If you can afford it , get a Tekin RS brushless system . Many good features and you can run sensored or in dual mode .

[Robg]

I finally had time to try and put a new kickplate on since I broke a ballstud off in the middle hole, but 3 out of the 4 screws on the bottom are stripped. They haven't really been wrenched on so don't know how that happened. None of my tools would get the screws out. Any suggestions?

What tires and setup should be used at OCRC? I have a GTB and Novak 17.5. Thanks for any info.

[Briguy]

I finally had time to try and put a new kickplate on since I broke a ballstud off in the middle hole, but 3 out of the 4 screws on the bottom are stripped. They haven't really been wrenched on so don't know how that happened. None of my tools would get the screws out. Any suggestions?

What tires and setup should be used at OCRC? I have a GTB and Novak 17.5. Thanks for any info.

Take a dremel and cut a slot in the screws so you can use a small flat blade screwdriver to get them out .

[murderone]

I finally had time to try and put a new kickplate on since I broke a ballstud off in the middle hole, but 3 out of the 4 screws on the bottom are stripped. They haven't really been wrenched on so don't know how that happened. None of my tools would get the screws out. Any suggestions?

What tires and setup should be used at OCRC? I have a GTB and Novak 17.5. Thanks for any info.

also next time try to use good quality hex keys. ESPECIALLY those little countersunk screws in the rear pivot. pain in the *** if they strip.

[Casper]

Run gold bar codes all around on the truck. Start gearing at 30/78.

[Robg]

Thank you for the responses. I will give the suggestions a try, i'm sure they will work.

[murderone]

also solder iron on the metal hex head to soften plastic around thread can help screws back out easier

[zhudlin]

I was wondering what the advantages are to the different turn counts on pinion and spur gears.

[Briguy]

Are you talking about the different pitch for gears ?

[zhudlin]

I am wondering about both.

[Casper]

64 pitch are smaller teeth so you can adjust your ratio closer but the smaller teeth require a more precise gear mesh or you will strip the gears.

Going up or down can effect the speed of the motor. Gear too high you can over heat and damage the motor. Gear too low and you could not be getting full potential out of the motor.

[zhudlin]

thanks, i just got a 48p 88t spur gear and a 18t pinion to go with my speed gems amber 17t double.

[Casper]

That may be a little undergeared but not a bad start.

[murderone]

i've started running smaller spur and bigger pinion (with same ratio's ) as the mesh seems to be better to see on average,particularly when you get below 17t.

[zhudlin]

what would you suggest for gearing

[rob martin]

what would you suggest for gearing

what motor?

[Briguy]

Jumping to a 88 spur I`d look at starting around a 23 tooth pinion and go from there .

[zhudlin]

It has a speed gems 17t. what do the different counts control, i am looking for more torque rather than speed

[Casper]

A 17X1 will have more torque then a 17X3.

Higher wire counts tend to make the motor smoother on the bottom and give a little more top end then low wire count winds.

[RcHippie]

How about when you land a jump nicely and the whole truck kind of squats and spins out, doesnt stay planted. What adjustments can prevent this?

more pac in the back! Heaver oil or a smaller hole piston. I run black pistons all the way round 32.5 in the front 17.5 in the rear try it.

[BradP]

more pac in the back! Heaver oil or a smaller hole piston. I run black pistons all the way round 32.5 in the front 17.5 in the rear try it.

What springs are you running with this?

[phtaber]

I have been running a MF2 this year and love it just pick up a BK2 and put it together and will be running it this week end for the first time can't wait :D

[murderone]

throw on some pics. thats what this thread is missing,,,i'll show you mine if you show me yours.

[Chris Wolfson]

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j171/cwolfson30/RC%20Racing%20Miscellaneous/HPIM1288.jpg

[sluggoman]

How do you secure your switch? Looks like glue, but then how do you clean the car

[jrxt]

Servo tape 3M makes the best buy it at walmart paint dept. look for the red covered stuff sticky is grey.

[Y2KGTP]

throw on some pics. thats what this thread is missing,,,i'll show you mine if you show me yours.

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/825/img4686z.jpg

[Briguy]

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i260/Briguy_01/014.jpg

[Briguy]

Y2KGTP , I`ll stop by and pick up that truck next Thursday on my way to LH so I can see how that thing runs compared to stock . :D

[Y2KGTP]

Y2KGTP , I`ll stop by and pick up that truck next Thursday on my way to LH so I can see how that thing runs compared to stock . :D

I can have my stuff ready and call it a kidnapping..... :D

[Briguy]

There ya go , now your thinking . LOL

[Mike Thomas]

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j171/cwolfson30/RC%20Racing%20Miscellaneous/HPIM1288.jpg

Hey,
I beat that truck before.....but then again, it's beat mine before.:D

[Chris Wolfson]

Hey,
I beat that truck before.....but then again, it's beat mine before.:D

Nah - that truck is "Thomas" free. You beat my old truck. :D So when does this one get a chance to get whipped by you? :)

[Mike Thomas]

Nah - that truck is "Thomas" free. You beat my old truck. :D So when does this one get a chance to get whipped by you? :)

Depends on where you been racing? I know Classic in Akron is building an indoor dirt track. Also, Hobbytown in Boardman is putting in an indoor dirt track. Ashtabula is a bit far and then there is always Doug's and Have Fun Hobbies. I am getting the 1/12th scale ready for the Halloween Classic at the Gate and then I will be back into dirt. What about you? Still going to Washington?

[Chris Wolfson]

I haven't been to Washington in quite awhile, but I'm intending on starting to practice down there every Wednesday and get a few Friday nights in down there racing. I'm going to race McCullough's on Saturday mornings and try to get out to Boardman and Classic a few times. I think there is supposed to be a race on Nov. 7th out at Classic. I'm hoping to mostly run 2wd Mod, 4wd Mod, and Strike this winter.

[rob martin]

cELL PHONe pics but u get the idea.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/shhiknow/img1254007415108.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/shhiknow/img1254007339164.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/shhiknow/img1254007255218.jpg

[Cooperd82]

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs226.snc1/7324_1174148647526_1642355276_464171_1165432_n.jpg

Got mine 9/19. This is last shot i took of it before putting a few decals and scuffing it up getting it dialed in.
1st Kit Ive done in about 16-17 yrs. Last kit i built was a Losi LXT.
I put the LOSB9574 Xcelorin 4800kv combo in it. Just matter of getting the right Pinon on it. got a 20T on at the moment.

Dad and I are gettin back in to these after 20 years. playing catchup with a better idea this time around.

[sluggoman]

Casper - please share a pic of your ride.

[sluggoman]

I have a 2 cell lipo. One cell is 4.19 and the other is showing 4.20. Is that considered "balanced". It never seems to show the same number, but 1/100th doesn't seem like a big amount. Thoughts?

[Casper]

Casper - please share a pic of your ride.

I will post something up when I get home tonight.

Body on or body off?

[Chris Wolfson]

Let's keep it G rated... ;)

[sluggoman]

Naked, of course!

Put the body on too, as I'm sure its a work of art

[murderone]

NICE TRUCKS slick tires look like they'd stick on asphalt well. **** i-photo needs to be installed before i can post pics:mad:

[Casper]

Here you go.

Not the best pics but I think you get the idea. Is there something in particular you wanted to see?

[zhudlin]

I was wondering how you do the mid motor conversion for the xxxt cr like Y2KGTP did. also what are the advantages to it

[murderone]

Here you go.

Not the best pics but I think you get the idea. Is there something in particular you wanted to see? no not really i just like looking. also paint jobs and set ups like tires and tracks etc

[Casper]

I had my tires on it from Hot Rod Hobbies just back from the Reedy Truck Race.

[Justin Doyle]

Here is some of mine!

[dirtracer]

Casper i was just woundering if you have any ideas on a good setup on a xxxt mf i just bought one and i am hoping to find a good setup this is my first truck for racing (everybody has to start some where ) i have been running a desert truck at the track but it was clearly not made for racing. :D

[TFrahm]

Casper i was just woundering if you have any ideas on a good setup on a xxxt mf i just bought one and i am hoping to find a good setup this is my first truck for racing (everybody has to start some where ) i have been running a desert truck at the track but it was clearly not made for racing. :D

I used to race a MF1, and I had great success with the setup Matt F. used at SRS -- LOSI used to have that setup available, and I have the pdf, but it is too large -- this forum won't let me upload it... PM me with your email address and I'll forward it to you...

[Casper]

Try this setup.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/setuptriplextcr/XXXTCR_Casper_StandardSetup200905.pdf

The XXX-T and XXX-TCR really are pretty close trucks. We are running basically the old VLA settings. The only other change you can't make is the rear camber link due to only having the three holes in the rear hub.

Run 1-A rear camber link to start.

Other then that this setup should work great on your truck.

[Y2KGTP]

Isn't the xxx-t cr chassis about 1/2" longer than the older xxx-t Truck?

[Cooperd82]

i think my dads MF1 is 1/4" shorter then my CR and its just in the chassis.
oddly i put the exact same setup on his MF1 that my CR has and his MF is just over 1/8" higher off the ground then mine. handles nearly the same atleast.

[Casper]

Yes the CR is longer. Just means the XXX-T has a little more steering! I have run this setup on XXX-T, MF2 and TCR now and it has worked great on all three platforms with minor tweaks.

[Mike Thomas]

My truck looks like a stool sample so no pics til I get her cleaned up!

[rob martin]

Here goes a short cell phone vid of my first time out with the truck. Truck seemed to work really well for the stock setup. Only thing i changed was the front camber link. Pink tapers and gold barcodes seemed to work good for me. Tapers were a little better though. The track is mcculloughs in pittsburgh.

http://pictures.sprintpcs.com/share.do?invite=qEcrPqJN2h5XoYvzU7v8&shareName=MMS&messageState=RETRIEVED

[Casper]

Looking good. Quite impressive for a first time out!

[Chris Wolfson]

Rob - looks pretty good - I can give you what I was running last year setup-wise for McCullough's if you want.

[Chris Wolfson]

My truck looks like a stool sample so no pics til I get her cleaned up!

LOL - That's great...

[Justin Doyle]

Truck looks good. Pretty impressive cell phone camera!

[rob martin]

Rob - looks pretty good - I can give you what I was running last year setup-wise for McCullough's if you want.

Yea that would be a good start. I Had a weird day in truck. I broke every qualifier and started last on the grid. I beleive there were 8-9 trucks. I Did manage in the main to do ok and went from last to second.

You could pm me your setup here or send it to my email. Ill try it out.

deepdishstanggt@aol.com.:D

In 2wd my buggy was going awesome. better than i could ask for. I qualifed 4 seconds behind shawn and i was pretty happy with that considering he's very fast i didnt wreck at all in my 2wd qualifer. It was a good way to start the indoor season.

[Chris Wolfson]

Here are the two setups I played with inside last year at McCullough's...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j171/cwolfson30/Setup%20Sheets/WolfsonXXXTCR.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j171/cwolfson30/Setup%20Sheets/WolfsonXXXTCR2.jpg

[rob martin]

ok cool. my truck was ok at best but i didnt have the right tires either.
I think i might like the 2nd setup being a lil stiffer. I'll give it a try

[robale]

My ball cups keep popping off at the inside location #2, rearly do they pop off at the hub. I change the ball studs and cups, same problem. I tryed captive rod end from Dubro #2160, no good not strong enough. Now I'm trying Dubro #259's this coming Satuaday, I'll have to see if they work. Any suggestions.:(

[Cappy]

My ball cups keep popping off at the inside location #2, rearly do they pop off at the hub. I change the ball studs and cups, same problem. I tryed captive rod end from Dubro #2160, no good not strong enough. Now I'm trying Dubro #259's this coming Satuaday, I'll have to see if they work. Any suggestions.:(

Well if you drove as good as you predict the weather.. then you wouldn't have this problem..;)

[robale]

Your a funny man cappy:D

[Cappy]

Your a funny man cappy:D

I do my best !! At least you didnt take your car home in 2 pieces.:eek:

[robale]

Yea that was bad, I just can't figure why this is happen all the time. It has me stuped

[Chris Wolfson]

My ball cups keep popping off at the inside location #2, rearly do they pop off at the hub. I change the ball studs and cups, same problem. I tryed captive rod end from Dubro #2160, no good not strong enough. Now I'm trying Dubro #259's this coming Satuaday, I'll have to see if they work. Any suggestions.:(

What surface are you running on? Is it the same side each time? Gear cover side?

[robale]

yes, it's that side must of the time, but the last one is the other side:confused:

[Chris Wolfson]

That's very strange... I really don't know what to suggest to you on that one... I've never had an issue like this with my truck...

[robale]

Sorry I forgot about the type of surface I'm running on, it is hard, dusty, and rough.

[Briguy]

I get the left one popping off once and a while , but that is from driver error . Like a bad landing or truck cartwheels .

[Chris Wolfson]

Sorry I forgot about the type of surface I'm running on, it is hard, dusty, and rough.

I was only guessing if it was really high bite, then it might be putting a ton of pressure on it. Still no idea...

[Casper]

Are you using short neck ball studs? You should be.

That is weird. Are you using white or gray ball cups?

[robale]

I was using the losi gray long ball cups, but now I'm trying captive rod ends. Dubro #2160 or ok in the front but not in the rear, they keep braking right were the rod ends on the left side or the right side but mostly on the left side.:confused:

[Chris Wolfson]

I was using the losi gray long ball cups, but now I'm trying captive rod ends. Dubro #2160 or ok in the front but not in the rear, they keep braking right were the rod ends on the left side or the right side but mostly on the left side.:confused:

I'm assuming they are breaking during crashes? Can you give me an idea of under what circumstances they are breaking? Hitting walls? Crashing after jumps?

[rob martin]

Sounds like your wrecking pretty hard:eek:

[robale]

We have a 4' double and some time I'll do cartwheels after landing wrong, that's what happen on the last brake. Or I'll hit the wood walls hard for what ever risen. Now other losi trucks do the same thing and they don't pop or brake their ball cups. This one driver as a XXXT MF2 with the long gray ball cups and he wrecks just like I do and he never pops or brakes any ball cups.

[Casper]

It is odd that you replaced the ball stud and the cup and still have the problem. The studs themselves will wear over time and may need replacing but if you replace both and still have the problem that is unusual.

[robale]

That's why I'm stuped on this problem:confused: Oh by the way, you know the 2 cap screws that go into the chassie in front of the rear shock tower. I took out the 4-40's and put in 5-40's because one was striped out, I thought maybe that was causeing the problem. No such luck.

[Casper]

I would guess the new balls stud is a little undersized and replace it again. You can try and go captured as well but this is a tight space for a beefy captured option.

[Cooperd82]

i was runnin my CR over the weekend and busted 3 turnbukles and 3 ball studs. one was prob from bein to tight i think. the turnbuckles are Lunsford and they have a if break or bend send them in for free replacement. ill wait till i have more then a few to ship.
One break was bad landing and doin a tumble which also broke the CV joint didnt think i landed that hard.

2nd was i got hit by a T4 on a landing. ( then accidently broke his Rear a-arm with my b3. he spun out and i ran over em)
3rd i have no idea how it broke noticed it while in the air durin a double double.

last few weeks my dad and i have been breakin some weird things on our XXXT trucks. think i might talk em in to goin over to the buggys. i dont remember much issues with them 20 yrs ago.


and the Lundsford racing url on the guarantee save some searching for those who need the info
https://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=bb764cb31b831c5f0beb58adad dc8221&Screen=GUARANTEE&Store_Code=LUNS

[robale]

I think I found what the problem is, where the captive cap screws are located. I just changed them to #3-C, now there is no binding or bending of the captive rod end when the suspension is compressed. The suspension feels normal now. Will see what happens on Satuaday. Thanks everybody for your help on this problem.:)

[Chris Wolfson]

I think I found what the problem is, where the captive cap screws are located. I just changed them to #3-C, now there is no binding or bending of the captive rod end when the suspension is compressed. The suspension feels normal now. Will see what happens on Satuaday. Thanks everybody for your help on this problem.:)

Did you get it solved?

[sluggoman]

How often do you all change your front ribbed tires? I'm not sure if I know how you can tell if they're worn

[Briguy]

I rarely run ribbed tires up front so mine are all still new . Are you having steering issues ?

[Chris Wolfson]

How often do you all change your front ribbed tires? I'm not sure if I know how you can tell if they're worn

They start to round off on the sharp edges - compare them to a new set. Sometimes a worn tire is more what you want. Sometimes you need freshies - it's all in the track conditions...

[JeromeK99]

Tire hookup is all relative to the way you drive, the track conditions and what your rear tires are doing as well. If you have somewhat old and worn tires and new rears that are biting hard, then you might need a fresher set up front... or you'll push in a corner.. but if you have new fronts that are working well, you will also need rears that match the amount of traction or the rear will tend to come around on you when turning. I know that as long as both front and rear tires are having similar traction, you can get away with even running worn rears and still hookup. So even if you do get some new tires, it is always a good idea to keep the worn ones too!

Tire selection is about the most important thing to consider in 1/10th scale racing. As long as your setup is working moderately well and your maintenance is kept up reasonably.. tires choice is going to make or break you! The fastest motor isn't going to win if you can't get the power to the ground. Likewise you can tweak your setup all you want and it won't matter a bit if your tires can't get enough traction.

Jerome :cool:

[kevin starr]

converted my mf1 with vla arm and buggy cr hubs wow what a difference. its rocked.

[cyclone]

Is there a different number / part for the rear pivot block on xxxt-cr to the standard xxxt or do i just order LOSA4126???:confused:

[Briguy]

Unless you want the aluminum one , that is it .

[rob martin]

Some cellphone pics from last night before going to race!:eek:

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/shhiknow/img1255132971239.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/shhiknow/img1255133452182.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a332/shhiknow/img1255133348235.jpg

[robale]

Well as I said in a prior post, I moved from 2-b camber link position to 3-C position in the rear and that solved the problem of my ball cups popping of all the time. Plus I put on Dubro #259 captive rod ends and that made it even better. Now if I do a jump bad and do cartwheels nonthing pops off.

[Casper]

Is there a different number / part for the rear pivot block on xxxt-cr to the standard xxxt or do i just order LOSA4126???:confused:

That pivot will work for any XXX-T truck other then the MF2 which uses the grey tranny case.

[nearlyinvisible]

I have been out of the hobby for quite a while. I'd like to get back into stadium truck racing and think I'd like to get a xxx-t cr.

I've noticed some changes regarding tires. Some people are running rear tires (taper pins or hole shot) on the front and some people are running what look likes slicks on the front and rear. Can anyone update me on the tire options for the xxx-t? Why run rears on the front? Why run slicks?

I'll be running on an indoor track that is loose when dry (track is usually dry) or high bite when wet. Any suggestions for what tires and tire compounds to run?

Does the xxx-t cr come with titanium ball studs? I've been reading a lot about ball stud issues.

[Casper]

You tend to run pinned front tires when you want the steering response smoothened out. It tends to take away some initial steering but gets you middle exit. Pinned front tires will not catch ruts like a ribbed tire will which will make the truck more stable. We tend to use them on tracks that are low dust. If the track has a lot of loose dirt on top or is wet a ribbed front will tend to be better.

The XXX-TCR comes with heavy duty ball studs. They are a stronger steel then the old style ones but we still suggest upgrading to titanium for inner front camber and for both ends of the rear camber links.

[jharris]

So in my return to racing I will be sticking with my BK2. Once I have that running the way I want I will be looking to bring my Truck online and am wondering if I should replace my XXX-T MF with a CR?

Thanks...

[Casper]

The TCR with the quick change rear tires and some other small tweaks is a great truck. The geometry of the truck compared to the MF1 are very similar although the TCR has a longer chassis. I would upgrade the truck but stick with the BK2 buggy for now. As you get stuff back on the track let us know if there is anything we can do to help get you back up to speed faster! :D

[nearlyinvisible]

Casper, thank for the reply regarding tires. What compound (red/pink) seems to be best for loose indoor dirt? Why are some using "slick" (no pins) tires? Thanks!

[jharris]

Thanks for all the help. It's starting to come back a little faster now, I can remember being fast but it is only a memory at the moment.

I'll let you know how it goes. Last weekend I went from a brushed stock motor up to a brushless 13.5 with Lipos, needless to say I was a little bit too fast for my own good. With a heavily reduced drag brake I suppose a broken arm isn't too bad all things considered. A few more tweaks and back at it on Wednesday.

[Casper]

indoor clay usually favors pink. I would run what the locals run though. At least to start. Slicks are used when the clay is super tacky. If the dirt provides all the traction then you don't need pins and can run slicks. One super sticky clay this will provide amazing traction were pin tires will just clog up. Most of the time you will find if there is any dust on the track you will want a least a small pin tire on the car but there are a few tracks were slicks work.

[nearlyinvisible]

Lunsford sells short, medium, and long ball studs. What length is best for the rear camber links?

Also, any gearing tips for the xxx-t cr with an 8.5 motor and 2s lipo?

[sluggoman]

What is the part number for replacement Tie Rods? It shows nothing on the parts diagram.

[Chris Wolfson]

Losi doesn't sell the turnbuckles (tie-rods) as replacement parts. These are made for Losi for the kits. You want to order a XXXT tie rod set from Lunsford. Just go to Horizon Hobby and do a search for Lunsford turnbuckle sets...

[Casper]

Lunsford sells short, medium, and long ball studs. What length is best for the rear camber links?

Also, any gearing tips for the xxx-t cr with an 8.5 motor and 2s lipo?

Losi sells titanium ball studs as well. They sell them in short, med and long as well and they also have "short Neck" ball studs as well with the ball not as high off the thread as a standard ball stud.

I run .380 losi titanium ball stud for the front inner location.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA9947


I run .25 for the outside rear
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA9946

I run .380 short neck for the inner rear camber length
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA9949

I run the kit ball studs in all other locations.

Gearing. I was at 20/82 with my 8.5 at the Reedy. IT is a good starting point.

[sluggoman]

Casper - you mention they do sell titanium tie rods; do you have a part number?

btw - nice pics of your ride. It's fun to "see" how everyone has pimped their ride, inside and out.

[Chris Wolfson]

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LNS5170

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LNS1076

[jharris]

Go with the Lunsford... best stuff around and it is guaranteed for life.


https://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=db77cf211c35f85aa456390124 e3e8f2&Screen=GUARANTEE&Store_Code=LUNS

[Casper]

Casper - you mention they do sell titanium tie rods; do you have a part number?

btw - nice pics of your ride. It's fun to "see" how everyone has pimped their ride, inside and out.

I typed that wrong and fixed it. I meant losi makes titanium ball studs. Like other have stated they do not have a part number for the XXX kit tie rods. Get a lunsford set for replacements. AE ones work well also if you like blue.

[Robg]

Casper, are Pink Taper Pins still working at OCRC or are the JC Gold Bar Codes better? And same question for WCRC when it opens if you have any knowledge about that track. Thanks

[Casper]

Gold bar codes were way better when he first put in the new dirt. I have not tried pinks on my truck on the new layout. I think pinks will come back as the new dirt gets turned into the old. Right now golds seem to be the ticket though. I have some proline MC suburbs to try out to see how they work. I have heard they work pretty well with the new dirt as well.

WCRC does not have the traction OCRC does. I was running green double dee's out there as they seemed to be the best. M2 holeshots might be good as well but did not try them. We will have to wait and see how they work the dirt after they open to see if they keep more moisture in the track. That might change things but DD's are a safe bet.

[Cappy]

Ok..... Its as the title says.. When i go to push the Hex Pin through the axle the whole hub turns very crunchy.. But im not thinking its the bearings because its super smooth to spin the axle in the hub before the hex pin goes in. Its been driving me nutz ..tryin not too spend too much money..only one more race till the seasons end.

[Casper]

This issually means there is too much side load on the bearings and they may have some dirt in them. Do you have any axle shims installed? There should be a slight amount of lateral play for the axle in the hub when the pin is installed. My guess is a bearing is going bad and should be replaced.

[Cappy]

Yea i think your right !! Thank you sir

[Showtime]

i was runnin my CR over the weekend and busted 3 turnbukles and 3 ball studs. one was prob from bein to tight i think. the turnbuckles are Lunsford and they have a if break or bend send them in for free replacement. ill wait till i have more then a few to ship.
One break was bad landing and doin a tumble which also broke the CV joint didnt think i landed that hard.

2nd was i got hit by a T4 on a landing. ( then accidently broke his Rear a-arm with my b3. he spun out and i ran over em)
3rd i have no idea how it broke noticed it while in the air durin a double double.

last few weeks my dad and i have been breakin some weird things on our XXXT trucks. think i might talk em in to goin over to the buggys. i dont remember much issues with them 20 yrs ago.

the info
https://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=bb764cb31b831c5f0beb58adad dc8221&Screen=GUARANTEE&Store_Code=LUNS

I had bad luck with the XXXTCR when I first got it too. Several missing parts, few that were not molded right. emails went unanswered.... oh well. Also, Lunsford does not guarantee the Tie-Rods that come with the Losi kits. :mad:

Oh well, still the best truck I've ever owned... :D

[Briguy]

Also, Lunsford does not guarantee the Tie-Rods that come with the Losi kits. :mad:



That is because according to Lunsford the turnbuckles in the kits are not Lunsford turnbuckles .

[Cappy]

QUICK TIE-ROD HINT !!!

Go Straighter.....:D

Sorry..Couldnt resist

[Chris Wolfson]

Yea - I'm not exactly sure if Lunsford makes the tie-rods for Losi or not, but they definitely don't warrant them. I remember sending a bag of tie-rods back to lunsford and getting most back replaced, but a small bag of my bent ones explaining that they were Losi tie-rods and not Lunsford tie-rods. :(

[Ansel]

I belive Lunsford makes them for Losi but the Losi ones have longer threads than Lunsford's do.

[RayKindstrom]

So I've spent the last 2 hours reading through this thread and I am left with more questions than when I first started. I've always been a huge fan of Losi products. (my first was a xxx-s G+, best sedan I've ever driven) I've recently started to get serious about racing again, but this time racing off-road instead of sedan. I have a friend who is a team driver for the "other team" so my truck selection was made with haste due to needing setup advice. The problem is I don't wanna run "blue" stuff! Since I have no idea where to start I'm relaying on all of you to help point me in the right direction.

If I purchased a xxx-t cr what else would I need to make it work? I run at the same track as Briguy, which is Leisure Hours Raceway. It's an indoor clay track. Sometimes it's high bite and sometimes it's dusty.

Sorry for the super long post, but thanks in advance for your help.

[kevin starr]

run caspers setup with clay panther switches on rear and vrib front panthers in soft . when dusty run soft panther rapters. tires make the most important choice. u could run losi tires there but i havent tried them on that track. i have only been there once but worked for me

[Briguy]

Ya ! Another Losi driver at LH ! Not many Losi fans there . Panthers don`t work well at LH with 1/10 , tapers do a much better job .

Ray , you will want at least three sets or Losi pink taper pins . One set full tread , one half and other slicks . We rarely run ribs up front , usually tapers . Some guys been running Gold Bar Codes as well but tapers work great . The track starts out wet and normally need to change to a tire with tread by the end of the night . 19T/13.5 class is the biggest stadium truck class there . So either a 19T motor or 13.5 brushless system if you plan to run that class .


I started with a stock setup and made changes which my truck seems to get around pretty good with current setup . I`ll be there Thursday for practice as well Saturday practice and of course Saturday night to race . If you need any help come on over to my pit . I stick out like a sore thumb as I`m usually the only Losi racer there . Once and a while a few others show .

Ray , I worked up by your neck of the woods for the past 13 years . Youngren`s , Artlip and Son`s , RJ Khun .

[kevin starr]

briguy lets not start a flaming war. i havent yet raced there but have practiced. my panthers hooked up just fine. if they dont when i do get chance to race there. i'll run my pinks. im running a mf1 with cr arm and buggy cr hubs it was dialed . but as a team, losi that is , we need to stick together.

[RayKindstrom]

Ya ! Another Losi driver at LH !

Briguy, I am already racing the 13.5 truck class and was there last Thursday nite and raced Saturday. Have all the equipment to race....just not thrilled with my current "ride". My questions weren't related to tires (got bar codes and pink tapers). My question was what I needed in addition to the xxx-t cr. Like what springs, shock pistons, etc that I need to make the truck work.

I have never been a fan with "it's what the fast guys run". The fast guys will always be fast :rolleyes: Think people are missing out at LH. Everyone knows of Losi quality....just no support in our neck of the woods. (yet......hint hint nudge nudge....shameless plug)

I'm already looking for a used CR...let the quest begin!

[Briguy]

briguy lets not start a flaming war. i havent yet raced there but have practiced. my panthers hooked up just fine. if they dont when i do get chance to race there. i'll run my pinks. im running a mf1 with cr arm and buggy cr hubs it was dialed . but as a team, losi that is , we need to stick together.

Flaming war ? Where is this coming from ?

:confused::confused:

[Briguy]

Briguy, I am already racing the 13.5 truck class and was there last Thursday nite and raced Saturday. Have all the equipment to race....just not thrilled with my current "ride". My questions weren't related to tires (got bar codes and pink tapers). My question was what I needed in addition to the xxx-t cr. Like what springs, shock pistons, etc that I need to make the truck work.

I have never been a fan with "it's what the fast guys run". The fast guys will always be fast :rolleyes: Think people are missing out at LH. Everyone knows of Losi quality....just no support in our neck of the woods. (yet......hint hint nudge nudge....shameless plug)

I'm already looking for a used CR...let the quest begin!

My bad .

What is your current setup ? What is the truck doing that you want to change ?

[RayKindstrom]

Briguy, Sorry...wasn't trying to rub you the wrong way.

It isn't what the truck is doing..it's the brand of truck I'm running....

[Briguy]

Sorry , I totally misread your first post .

I would get a few different springs and pistons as might change to your liking .

My setup is


Front


Toe- in 1*
Ride Height - 34 mm
Caster - stock
Oil - 35
Piston - 56
Spring - Orange
Limiters - .210"
Spindle Height - bottom
Axle spacer - Wide , stock size
Steering type - Bell crank , inside holes with 2 washers
Bump Steer - 3 washers on spindle ball stud
Camber Link - 2,B w/ 1 washer on bulkhead
Shock Location - 1 , Inside
VLA - Long

Rear

Toe - 3*
Pivot Support - 2*
Ride Height - 35 MM
Camber - -1*
Rear Hubs - Forward
Oil - 27.5
Piston - 56
Spring - White
Liniters - no
Camber Link - 2 , B w/ 4 washers
Shock Location - 4 , Middle
VLA - Long , Upper hole on hub
Battery - Middle

Tekin RS Pro 13.5
23/82 gearing

I`m gonna try running the outer holes on bell crank Thursday to see if I like it .

[Casper]

Are you looking for hop ups or just tuning stuff. If you just want tuning stuff, I would have white to pink springs for the back. I would have silver and blue buggy springs for the front.

I woud have 57-55 pistons. Other then that some gold washers for adjusting roll centers.

25-40 wt oil.

Is this what you are asking?

If you are looking for hop ups? Really not much is needed from what is in the kit. Ti ball studs are one item that will help with strength. I like the lunsford shock mounts as you will never need to worry about a bent shock screw. (more common on buggies then trucks from my experience since body protects the truck shocks.)

I would recommend a graphite t-plate. They have proven to be much stronger then the EA3 plates to me.

[Briguy]

I agree the graphite t-plates are stronger . But the indoor track at LH usually doesn`t have big jumps and never had problems with EA3 .

[Casper]

I recommend that people use the graphite t-plate when the EA3 one does break. That is all.

I run a full graphite truck and buggy other then the chassis. I like the stiffer suspension of the graphite but it is a feel thing. A lot of guys like EA3 and there are pro's and cons to both.

[Drusillus]

Hello.

I just assembled my new XXX-T CR and would like to know if can use the quick-release hubs on the front?

I was putting around on the online RC stores but was unable to find the parts online.

Any help would be great, thanks!

[Casper]

The rims are the same front to rear. If you are asking if you can have quick change levers instead of a nut for the front tires. No. This cannot be done.

[Drusillus]

The rims are the same front to rear. If you are asking if you can have quick change levers instead of a nut for the front tires. No. This cannot be done.


Yeah, that is what I was asking.

I appreciate the quick reply ;)

[RayKindstrom]

What's the difference between the MF2 and the CR? I'm passing my day away looking for a truck asap (on a budget tho). The track I race at has a trophy race on Nov7th.

[Casper]

They have different trannies. The CR is .2 longer. The CR is EA3, MF2 is graphite. The CR has the XXX rear end with QC rear hubs. The MF2 has the GEN II rear end which is a little narrower in the pivot block and the offset is in the axle outside the hub. (both use the same rear arm).

Most of it is little stuff. Both trucks work great bu the TCR is the latest and greatest. I have had really good luck with the TCR and the Quick change rear tires are awesome.

[kevin starr]

briguy , my bad just like the way my panther tires work for me. thats all.

[Briguy]

briguy , my bad just like the way my panther tires work for me. thats all.

No big deal . Your making this more then what it is .

[Y2KGTP]

I agree the graphite t-plates are stronger . But the indoor track at LH usually doesn`t have big jumps and never had problems with EA3 .

I just cracked my Graphite T plate in 1/2 last week, but that is just me. Guess I'll go back to the EA3 and see how that lasts.

[Briguy]

Gotta land the jumps somewhat correctly to avoid that :D

[Chris Wolfson]

We've all broken T-Plates - it happens.

[Y2KGTP]

We've all broken T-Plates - it happens.

Yeah, I just need to revise it a bit to make is stronger\more durable. I have this sheet of G10 sitting here.......:D

[Chris Wolfson]

Yeah, I just need to revise it a bit to make is stronger\more durable. I have this sheet of G10 sitting here.......:D

Unless you're running on some crazy huge tracks, I still think the stock plate would be fine for you... I run the EA3 plate on all my cars...

[Briguy]

Yeah, I just need to revise it a bit to make is stronger\more durable. I have this sheet of G10 sitting here.......:D

I wonder if it broke because of the mod you did ? All the stress is now at the end of the plate instead of front and middle . I`ve landed that jump wrong many times and never had any problems .

[Casper]

The graphite one will not keep you from breaking. It just requires more effort to break. We had a big jump at my local track when I first got my truck. Went through 3 EA3 ones plates in 3 runs. Put a graphite one on when I was out of EA3 plates and went a couple months without another breaking. All I am saying is the graphite one is stronger then the EA3 one. It really only shows up with big jumps and hard landings though.

[Drusillus]

Hello.

I need some advise regarding Spur and Pinion gearing.

I just built my CR and have a Novak 17.5 Brushless Ballistic motor and ESC. I'm running the stock Spur (86 I think?) and a 22 Pinion (was just one I had lying around)

Without knowing how to word what I am looking for in a google search, can someone point me to an online resource that can help me on gearing?