Covered Wheel Nuts for 8IGHT/T 2.0 and LST XXL

[Todd Hodge]

Check out our new covered wheel nuts. These covered aluminum 17mm wheel nuts are designed for Losi's 8IGHT™ 2.0 Buggy, 8IGHT-T™ 2.0 Truggy and LST XXL™ Monster Truck, or any other 1/8-scale off-road buggy or truggy that uses a traditional 17mm wheel nut/axle design. The covered design eliminates dirt from getting into the axle. They also have a knurled design on the back that helps lock the nut to the wheels which eliminates the use of loctite.

LOSA3538BL-Black Wheel Nuts (http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA3538BL)

LOSA3538R-Red Wheel Nuts (http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA3538R)

LOSA3538-Hard Anodized Wheel Nuts (http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA3538)

LOSA3538B-Blue Wheel Nuts (http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA3538B)

[dsl]

Those look great!

[Alan]

Those look sweet, green ones would be nice to

[allen71457]

Purple would be nice......

[losifiend]

I wanted to get the OFNA ones but thought it would look dumb on a Losi. These look awsome!!

[Pascal Robichaud]

those look good, I'm gona get the reds!!!!:D

[TillRodsFly]

Those look sweet, green ones would be nice to

I second the green!...:D

[Todd Hodge]

I hear the green as it is my favorite color too.

Btw, all 4 colors will be in STOCK later this week.

[dakotah97]

Dakotah wants the anodized ones.Too bad they don't come in orange!!!!

[Casey Peck]

Yeah I'm with ya Orange Is the new red! Or so they say in those stupid girl fashion magazines

Those wheel nuts are awesome we ran them at the Nats. They are not like the "other" brand knurled ones that run out of thread after you take them off and back on a bunch of times and eat some of the wheel away.

[KennyPetty94]

When are they going to be shipped

[Phillip Atondo]

Hi Guys! Can't wait to get my hands on some green ones or how about matching wheel color ones so they blend in?

[Mac]

I just received my red ones and they are so coooooooooool!

[Frank Root]

These are a must. I have heard more than 1 person tell me they made a mistake and only fingure tightened them...and they stayed on!!

[KevinM]

Dakotah wants the anodized ones.Too bad they don't come in orange!!!!

I second the orange need more color options.

[Lapper]

Hi Guys! Can't wait to get my hands on some green ones or how about matching wheel color ones so they blend in?

Sweet...semi gloss yellow or white....I like it !!!! You can always paint em.:D

[amd]

Alright yall. This CAN be dangerous but here it goes(danger from chemicals)

Get any color alluminum that you know can be anodized.... if it is already...obviously it can be.

YOU will need.

1 a acid prrof container with a lid prefferably

2 battery acid from car part store.

3 12v power supply(selectable amp very advised)

4 DISTILLED WATER IN A NEW STORE BOUGHT GALLON JUG(NOTHING CAN BE INTHE WATER BUT WATER!!!!!!!!!!!)

5 ORGANIC dye( rit powder dye works, some colors better than others.

6 aluminum TIG wire or other aluminum rod or such

7 gloves and saftey equiptment

8 denatured alcahol

9 boiling water

10 aluminum foil

11 sandpaper and CLEAN rags

12 and EASY OFF brand oven cleaner.


OK,,,, to do this ya gotta know whats goin on.
the color is actually a dye that gets into pores and is kept on by aluminum oxide, the oxide is a "rust" that aluminum fors in minutes when exposed to oxygen

so to make your own color.
AAA--- ALWAYS ADD ACID, reason is if anything goes INTO acid it can cause heat, boiling or splatter of acid, also the splash back will be very strong.
add about 1 gal of water to container, then add 1 pint or qt of acid (10-20% acid)
make an electrode plate from alum wire then cover in foil. this will be a floor on the bottom of tank. you need rod from it coming up out of solution to clip power to.
easyoff your parts, the color comes right off, a lil cleaner and a scotch pad or snadpaper works well. THIS MUST BEE DONE VERY PRIOR TO ACID DIP!!! cuz of oxide.
Now dip part from a alum wire that will NOT touch other plate on bottom. May need to weight the bottom,as air makes the plate wanna float.
as your very clean part is susspended in the tank add possitive teminal to bottom plate and neg to part you are annodizing.
add power at low amperage.... bout .25-2amps at 12volt DC
30-40 minutes is good, there will be tiny bubbles that come off it after a short while and will slow down/stop usually when close to done( not always the case though!)the part will be grey dull and look sandblasted. these are the micro poeres that ONLY ORGANIC ACID SALT DYES WILL SEEP INTO. LIKE RIT
Now while waiting, add a pack of dye to warm distilled water less than 140*(very important less than 140!!!! ferrenheit)
after a few min to an hour the color will take.(ps black dye makes a very cool olivey/ttianium color) then directly dip into boiling water to form oxide layer.
Your done..... keep acid stored safe and NOT AIR TIGHT but well covered away from all valued items and pets!!! clean very small spills with bakin soda but NEVER GET EVEN REMOTELY closeto the vat of acid with anything powdery let alone very strong base.!!!!

This was my experimental trial, I used a peice of aluminum(type unknown) and it was about the size of a d battery. smaller peices use less amps to do so use low amps on this part, anything larger requires more..... and not asmuch mass of teh item as surface area determines amps(i dont know enough to figure how to figure amps) EX: a solid slug 1.5" diameter by 2" long solid and smooth - or smaller will work well with a cheap 110 to red=12v yellow 5v Desktop PC powersupply(pc's use regulated 12volt AND 5 volt for opperations of the processor fan speeds and other items. but they are 110v ac Plug in and do convert to 12 and 5 v DC Know the difference in AC AND DC or dont even try this!!!!. A 1.5x2" glow head with all the surface area that teh fins have will probably need a HUGE amp supply, like a high end batt charger for RC or a car charger..

I did tiny stuff, I had fun doing it and yall will to.... IF YOU ARE SAFE AND HAVE COMMON SENCE!!!! even still accidents happen, and very few of yall work with this kinda thing or even know bout the process, plus theres chemistry involved...

[amd]

THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR, DO OR DONT DO/ BEING OVERSAFE (mainly cuz I dunno and dont wanna get anyone hurt..............
1 acid has low # pH.
2 pH is a number 1-(12 or 14 cant remember)
3 7 is nuteral like plain water( well within 6-8)
4 acid is 1-3pH
5 Bakin soda and LYE( part of easy off) is very high(bout 10-14)
6 DONT SPRAY ANYTHING OR HAVE DUSTY STUFF ANYWHERE NEAR
rust will set off acid, so will oven cleaner(over big area) and bakin soda so DONT USE THESE ITEMS IN OR EVEN CLOSE OR SAME ROOM as acid(diluted acid will be lessss likely to do anything but thats the OVER SAFE part!)
7to clean up spills if nessesary bakin soda and water mixed strong will nuturalize acid but if you need it concider this !!!
(close top to container if you need it near acid tank and mix in distilled water to assure no dust comes from it. never nutrilize OVER OR ANYWHERE ABOVE acid, only on gorund/ table or whatever.... and never be near insect infested areas..:IE, flys all over, tons of bees nearby or ants crawling in container....(they wont come near once power on though)
8 The vapors are very minor but close to tank the fumes can react(not violently tho) with very close items that can be hurt by it like cloth or painted items....(we talkin like 2ft-3ft) or your lungs so a LIGHT breeze/ fan far away or a respirator is a good idea. I did mine outsidwe on calm day)
9 as you privide acid/distilled h20 an electrical current that produced trans-electrolite current(ex; batt chargin or this procedure you make hydrogen gas that is flammable and in right conditions/concentrations/compression or sealed area explosive, so no smokin and power on and or off with power source to your supply like at wall or switch... not at contacts near tank as they spark a tiny bit when energized(like all electricity does)
10 at very low amp(my setup) there is tiny to no risk of sudden H(hydrogen) production, heat or arcing. if you use anything(ANYTHING) to do this with....have a remote plug.....
THIS MEANS IF YOU TURN ON OR OFF YOUR POWER SUPPLY, CHECK ALL LEADS ARE NOT TOUCHING ANYTHIN, TURN ON/OFF AT WALL PLUG OR ATLEAST 3-4FT AWAY FROM TANK(FURTHER THE MORE AMPS OR SMALL SPACE) AND HAVE TEMINAL CONNECTED OR DISCONNECTED FROM ELECTRODES BEFORE POWERING ON OR OFF!!! This does a few things....1 no sparks can cause probs... 2 YOU ARE AWAY FROM TANK WHEN IT HAPPENS, so if it boils or flashes(very unlikley) you are atleast safe distance and 3 altho its less than 60vDC(dry or wet) there is NO chance of shock(burns in DC)

AC WILL SHOCK YOU ANY TIME ANY WHERE!!!! that means Alternating current.... meaning there are 2(or more) leads both are hot, they swithc witch is hot wire @60Hz(one wire is hot 60 times a second. then the other is, they go pos-neg-pos-neg120 times a sec total. this is why ac things like powerfull chargers, large fans, tv's, refrigerators... make a HUM under load.) It takes approx .06 MILLI AMP to cross heart and die. at any voltage.
AC also tenses muscles so it is hard/impossible to let go on your own.

DC (Direct Current) has a contant HOT or NEG. they dont "shock you" they burn like ****!!!!!! it takes 62v DC to shock you while dry (40ish wet and alot less on toung/eyes/other) so be safe yall

Lemme know if I missed an IMPORTANT somthin.... like saftey or somethin.

[KevinM]

i think i would go with the colors that they have now. I dont need my kids or dogs causing a mishap here at the house. You could go to a metal shop that does change the color of anodizing and they have all the stuff and its alot safer.

[Casper]

If you really want other colors contact a local plating coating house and round up a bunch of hardware do to at once. They usually charge a "Basket" fee so you can do all your alum supports, screws, what ever all at once for a real reasonable price and just about any color you want.

[HEFFAE]

Dakotah wants the anodized ones.Too bad they don't come in orange!!!!

Dakotah/Nancy I picked-up some Mazda "orange" touch-up paint for you, see you guys soon.
HEFFAE

[dakotah97]

Awesome! Are you coming to the King of Kings race?

[michel smith]

Mechanic broke them? I'd find a new mechanic. The plastic ones should just snap into the cover and then you can screw them onto the lug nuts. Be sure not to over tighten or you will be back to square one. I usually hand tighten them until I hear or feel them click twice.

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[sonic692]

Look great!

Cheap as chips :) lol

[Losilstxxl2012]

Check out our new covered wheel nuts. These covered aluminum 17mm wheel nuts are designed for Losi's 8IGHT™ 2.0 Buggy, 8IGHT-T™ 2.0 Truggy and LST XXL™ Monster Truck, or any other 1/8-scale off-road buggy or truggy that uses a traditional 17mm wheel nut/axle design. The covered design eliminates dirt from getting into the axle. They also have a knurled design on the back that helps lock the nut to the wheels which eliminates the use of loctite.

LOSA3538BL-Black Wheel Nuts (http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA3538BL)

LOSA3538R-Red Wheel Nuts (http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA3538R)

LOSA3538-Hard Anodized Wheel Nuts (http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA3538)

LOSA3538B-Blue Wheel Nuts (http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA3538B)

Do they fit the XXl because on my XXL six screws hold the chrome stock covers on.