XXX-4 G+ 4WD Buggy

[tkge]

Figured I would start a XXX4 G+ posting to see what everyone was running as far as setups and tech tips.

[tkge]

Does anyone every run the 41T pulley up front? The book says it will give it more steering going into and exiting a turn, but makes it "wander" down the straights. Just wanted to see how this worked for everyone else.

[2fast4u]

i have been running the 41T in mine for a while, most of the wandering can be taken out with a bit of toe in, it gets bad with some toe out, any 4wd does though. it does seem faster cornering.

[Briguy]

Is anyone making the aluminum pivots for the buggy again ? The last time I had a XXX-4 Losi stopped making the aluminum inner and a few outer pivot supports . IMO the plastic ones suck and got tired of breaking them .

[krisnryan]

Here are some durability tips.
1. MIP bones and axles with red ring. (PROBLEM IS THEY DO NOT HAVE THE AXLES IN STOCK.THERE IS A WAY TO MAKE THE OLDER XX4 AXLES WORK ON THE FRONT) It involves turning them down on a lathe.

2. Lunsford super duty tierods with the super duty ends.

3. Aluminum front and rear pivot mounts. The inside pivot mounts need to be alluminum too but they are hard to find. Im looking in to having them made. Ill post them when there available.

4. Cut some rubber tubing (fuel line from my jet ski) slice down the center line and fit it over the front shock tower with small zip ties. No need to do the rear, when it rolls over it hits the wing first.

5. The slipper needs to be very tight if your running brushless. The only way to mke it real tight with out stripping the fine threads on the nut is to remove one of the shims that sandwichs the spring, this way you use all of the threads. and use a couple drops of thin ca glue.

6. Rebuild your diffs after every race outing.

7. These cars werent meant for lipo, so you need to balance the car in race trim. Thats what the alluminum bar is on the side of the battery tray.

8. last but not least get better at driving the car, for some reason that also helps durability:) Hope this helps.

[Briguy]

Good tips ! I hoping there will be a new 1/10 4wd buggy , hopefully soon .

[Briguy]

ooops double post .

[Alan]

Any reason why you didn't choose the aluminum front castor blocks krisnryan?

[krisnryan]

Alluminum castor blocks would probably be a good idea, though i have only broken a couple of them since ive owned the car 8 months. The spindle arms break alot, not sure why i just keep a stock of them. One thing I did forget to mention, When I started using The MIP Bones in the front the molded graphite outdrives in the front broke almost imediatley, so i switched to using the metal outdrives like the rear and its been fine since. Im not sure if any one sells the metal outdrives, I have 2 kits and used the rear out of that one. It is actually well worth 275 from AMAIN hobbies to buy another kit to use as parts.

[Daniel Yachnin]

Heres a few more tips

1) The thrust bearing wears really fast so replace it with the HD thrust bearing from the JRX(losa301). fill the thrust bearings case that holds the ball with a thick grease such as tamiya AW. This will help make the diff smoother and prolong the life of the thrust bearing.

2) the monster diff screw and square spring(losa2908) helps alot and lets the diff get thicker without the chance of over tightening the screw.

3) If you have insane brushless power the HD drive belt kit(losa3277) reduces friction and belt skipping and is a great upgr8ade.

4)The LCD just need the pin on the end of the dogbone shortened beacuse it binds on the diff blade rings and pulls on the driveshaft causing the joints to tear

5)Instead of adding weight to your car to balance it move the electronics closer to the inside of the chasis or on the side of the belt chamber beacuse the less weight you add to the car the less force there is when you crash and you may not break as often.

These are the only changes to my car and i have about 1 and a half season on carpet at fastcats with my xxx4.

[krisnryan]

How do you move the electronics closer to the middle? My Speed control Novak gtb Barely fits as it is. it is as close to the tunnel as possible as is the reciever, and you cant move the servo? Are you refering to a brushed setup? Thanks for any info

[Alan]

3) If you have insane brushless power the HD drive belt kit(losa3277) reduces friction and belt skipping and is a great upgr8ade.

X-Factory were using a heavy duty black belt of their X5 at the Euro champs a few weeks ago, don't know if anything is on the market yet

[Daniel Yachnin]

The GTB is a little bit porky so it may be harder. Try moving it beside the tunnel and right behind the servo because that spot is actually closer to the centerline of the car than behaind the motor. I have the lrp in mine and i have it moubted on the side of the tunnel. I have also a really lightweight servo in the car so that helps to balance it out.

[2fast4u]

one of the businesses in my area builds Xray booths, they have sheets of lead 1/16" thick, i have been running that under the lipo for a while, works great, the first run on a fresh piece molds it to the chassis, then it takes all the abuse the bottom of the battery would have gotten and balances the car out at the same time. try looking in your area for some sheet lead, nothing wrong with handling it if you take precautions like gloves and hand washing, of course kids cannot play with my car, the only one at the track with more lead than Chinese paint!:)

[Briguy]

Anyone have a good setup for med bite clay tracks ?

[Pascal Robichaud]

Anyone have a good setup for med bite clay tracks ?

Is it a fast track, a jumpy, or low speed tecnical. Do you drive on off, are you a drifter, do you push a lot or you like it smouth and constent.

if you like to swing the back of your car, ad some camber up front, loose a little your front diff, tight the rear, put some 25 oil in your front shock and 30 or 32.5 in the rear one. I ratter play whit my differential than slipper on hard clay. so tight it up.

the best tire on clay was inside job, but it's hard to find those day, so i probably try m3 boe tye rear and m3 hole shot up front.

if you can program your esc, i'm not a big drag brake fan but if you put a 20 or 30 % the car will be more reactive off power.

If your a smouth driver I can't help you.... I'm not:D

PS on hard pack soil, put the softer rubber, but on loose soil like yellow heart, try some pink, you will love it. Softer isin't always the better

PPS Have some finger control, punch control is good as long as you dont need your power....

[losifiend]

Why do people keep asking for a new buggy? The XXX4 G+ is an awsome buggy. STILL! Yes, it doesnt get cool points for having carbon fiber this and that, but all in all its great. I'm not the best driver and I can swing it around the track just as well as the guys running AE and Kyosho at the local track.

[JeromeK99]

Why do people keep asking for a new buggy? The XXX4 G+ is an awsome buggy. STILL! Yes, it doesnt get cool points for having carbon fiber this and that, but all in all its great. I'm not the best driver and I can swing it around the track just as well as the guys running AE and Kyosho at the local track.

I think its just we want something new... I had one back when they first came out.. raced it for a year or two.. but back then, there was really only the XXX-4 and XX-4 that were really race worthy.. and the XXX-4 was like a dart compared to the heavy XX-4... but times have changed... I picked up another XXX-4G+ about a year and a half ago.. slapped a brushless set up in it.. OMG! What a difference. My 7.5 brushless feels like a 9T brushed back in the day!

There are so many 4wd now.. between mod and SuperStock at our local track, they are just as popular as any other 1/10th scale out there!

Most of the people putting the XXX-4 down are people that have never driven one, haven't had one in years... or they are what I call "Net Parrots" squawking about what they've heard on the net... lol..

I love mine.. but still would like a new car to play with sometime soon... I could care less about the carbon fiber chassis.. lol.. they are butt ugly to me, not to mention so generic these days. They are hard to tell apart at first glance without a body except for the "bling" aluminum they have.

Jerome :cool:

[2fast4u]

i still get people putting down my xxx-4, even after they get a good spanking! let them squawk all they want, it is a great buggy to run, once you install the aluminum hinge pin parts! i like seeing variety, went to a JConcepts Super Cup race here in Florida and there was about 40+ 4wd buggies there, 80% AE, 2 Losi and a few CATs and Kyosho. most of them are running AE because they saw a popular racer with that brand, so they have to have it, if they could strap some wheels and electronics on a pile of horse manure i am sure everyone there would switch cause they think that manure makes them a better driver.:rolleyes:

[Briguy]

The XXX-4 is a great buggy , on smooth tracks . Not so much on rough and/or bumpy tracks though . Which even then never used to be a problem because Losi used to make the aluminum pivot supports for the front . They still have a few left but not the inner mounts which is the weakest point on these cars . I remember reading a post I believe on here that someone is trying to get these aluminum pivots made .

[2fast4u]

I saw a post on RC Tech about front end parts, hub and knuckles all cnc'ed. i lucked out and found a hobby shop with older parts. they were happy to sell them, i was happy to buy them! i still cringe when the xxx4 cartwheels or lands at a slight angle, but it has been holding together so far!:)

[HeatMiser]

I used to break the spindles and carriers fairly regularly. More spindles than carriers, and almost always on the right side. Those haven't been a problem for a while, and I'm actually more concerned about snapping a CVD axle. I have the alum front pivot, but haven't had a problem with the plastic inner mounts. I've hit hard enough to bend the shaft a few times, and yet the mounts are fine. I just replace the little red thing as needed. Have yet to break a graphite arm, too. Most recently, my biggest issue has been cracking front rims. They crack in the center and then wobble, so I need to replace them, even when the tire is still good.

My understanding was that a guy on RCTech is making the alum front pivots in 7.5deg like people want, but the inner mounts were too costly to do.

[gcurrier]

I just have one question, I have got my car all up and together and now I'm installing electronics, I have the Xcelorin motor/ESC and a servo jammed into the little space they've given me, I doesn't look to bad at all but getting the motor to fit under the body is almost impossible with the directions the wires go from the back. Any tips or suggestions? I've been out of RC for a while and this is my first XXX-4 so any thing I should know helps.

[jeffreyd1965]

just put the wires through from the front i have the same set up in mine, buy up some lcd rebuilds your gonna need them

[rc heaven]

wow neat man
i just finished mine and was testing it on the track today before it got dark

i had the same problem earlier this week and got some advice in the 1/10 excelrion section
but you need to get your motor mount turned so that the motor is low as posible with the wires facing forward.
if you have interferance with the frame or the belt touching the motor shaft you need to be handy with a dremel or something
the wire cover is what was touching the frame for me, i took it of the motor and glued the two parts together then groung the cover down until the first wire so it clears the frame

then check your belt to be sure, the shaft is most likely close or touching the belt.
cut the end of your motor shaft to shorten it.

my motor is far enough down now but the battery strap hold up the body a little.

oh yah by the way this kit rocks man, i was zipping around the track as fast as i ever drove anything ,
and i was just taking it easy to get a feel for it.
had to stop because something loose with the front axle at the wheel end.
i was running a 7 cell and started getting some wicked speed,
it handles the bumps great and is set up fantastic with the instruction set up.
i found it realy easy to drive. great choice of car man!!

[gcurrier]

Thaks for the help. I took the wire cover off entirely and tilted it inward and upward toward the rear. it should be sturdy and safe there it seems. The shaft and gear are clear of the belt I guess I got lucky. Will any aftermarket bodies solve my clearance issue?

[rc heaven]

for sure a truck body would look awsome and eliminate clearance but
i don't know what to try and you wound need to make some mounts.
i'm sure it's been done.
i had the idea of tring it when i saw it fliing aroung the track
it would look good as a stadium truck

[gcurrier]

I was thinking something like the slash bodies. Those are still a new thing to me, what are those called?

[JeromeK99]

There are only 2 bodies that I'm aware of for the XXX-4, both are from Losi. The Intruder, which was the original XXX-4 body and the sleeker, Aurora. The Intruder has the most clearance and will allow you to fit most brushless ESC with a fan and large prong brushless motors. I run one with a GTB and a Velociti motor. I tried with an Aurora body, but just too many wires jam packed under the lid.

The only down side to the Intruder body with a XXX-4G+ is that the wing isn't made for running the rear shocks behind the tower. It was made for the original layout with the plastic shock towers and forward mounted back shocks. No biggie.. just change the wing or cut out some notches..

Jerome :cool:

[gcurrier]

I just put some spacers under the front body mounts and BAM problem solved. I even put the wire protector back on my Xcelorin.

[V-Liqour]

Hope someone can point me in the right direction on this, i have just rebuilt a xxx4g+,
it is brand new, never had a motor in it until now ,( someones unwanted toy) ,
I have followed the manual in setting up the slipper and adjusted it accordingly, but it :confused::confused:continues to loosens it self after about 5min or less of running I understand that it has to have some slip but this is excessive,
I am running 10.5 b\less
ANY SUGGESTIONS
the chap who owned it before me just built it wrong very wrong
on the up side what a great buggy this is my 1st 4wd LOADS more fun :Dthan my B4 or cyclone
RGD
Scott

[zippy_91]

I had the same issue with mine. I ended up using blue loctite on the slipper nut. I haven't had any issues since.

[M.Boos]

Today I bought a newly rebuild XXX4-G+ from a team driver and multiple german championship winner!
It comes with all the aluminum suspension mounts, cvd´s, front oneway, Trinity parts, Lunsford Titan screws, spare parts, clear body, wings, tires and wheels...

Can´t wait to get this machine running!:D

[krisnryan]

Hey v-liqour You can Take one of the shims out that clamps the small spring on the slipper, this allows you to use all of the threads on the slipper nut. Also use loctite or ca glue on the threads. you should run your slipper pretty tight with a BL. Brushless motors tend to be a little violent on those slippers they were designed for brushed motors.

[JeromeK99]

If you run your slipper too loose on the XXX-4, even for a couple a laps.. you will glaze your slipper pads. It will never tighten enough to work correctly. You just have to replace them and start over.....

Jerome

[2fast4u]

i use 600 grit sandpaper on mine when they glaze up, usually once a year or so. only on the slipper pads, have not tried it on the aluminum parts yet. the nut usually needs to be replaced once a year too.

[Briguy]

I usually use a knife and scrape the glaze off . No sense in buying new ones just because they are glazed over .

[M.Boos]

Does the Excelorin ESC fit behind the motor?

[JeromeK99]

I usually use a knife and scrape the glaze off . No sense in buying new ones just because they are glazed over .

I do this too on the regular XXX pads.. but the XXX-4 has the little eraser nubs.. they do get squashed too. Mine are going on 2 years of racing.. no problems!

Jerome :cool:

[Daniel Yachnin]

What you can do if your pads get squished and you can't find any more at the track you can give them a squeeze with pliers then press them into the spur.

[rc heaven]

Does the Excelorin ESC fit behind the motor?

mine fit's fine, got it held on with high strenght velcro with the capacitor held to the side of the belt tunnel just behind that as close to the body as possible to be further from the axle.

[V-Liqour]

Kris Zippy Jerome
Many thanks, slipper sorted,yes I removed the outer shim (closes to the nut side) a little bit of nut lock, deglazed the pads and presto
Ran four 5000mah 40c packs through the xxx4 with the 10.5 Lrp wore out a set of front taper pins had an absolute blast, and just the normal chirps from the slipper was all I heard
This is what its all about FUN in a big way have to give up onroad now (maybe?:eek: cutback)
Rgds
SCOTT:D:D:D

[Chris Wolfson]

Nothing better than 4wd Modified offroad!

[Daniel Yachnin]

Nothing better than 4wd Modified offroad!

+1 on that!

[gcurrier]

Where can I get stronger spindles and carriers? The losi factory ones are just weak.

[Briguy]

I have a set of aluminum carriers I might be willing to part with .

[Rara]

Does anyone run a one-way diff? I got a used xxx-4 of ebay and it came with an unassemblied one-way. If it worth the effort to track down instructions on how to assemble it?

[losidriver77]

My buggy has never broke I'm using it completely stock the way the manuel told me to build it and have not had any problems I am winning right now with it at a place called mikeshobbyshop and most of the time I get 1st place

[gcurrier]

I have a set of aluminum carriers I might be willing to part with .

How much? ;)

[Briguy]

Not sure how much they are worth .

[Chris Wolfson]

No doubt the car can win. I have been working with mine quite a bit lately. What is everyone running in terms of rear arm/hub combinations? I'm currently running BK2 arms and Trinity Aluminum hubs. I have seen people utilize the CR rear arms and hubs on the car. Any insight into how people are doing this in terms of spacing and legal widths?

[krisnryan]

Here are some pics of the first set of rear inner pivot mounts fresh of the CNC. Still working on the CAD drawings for the front. These are 7075 Aluminum and are absolutley bullet proof. They have the same specs as factory and bolt right in. I would be willing to do a batch of these to sell if there is enough intrest.

[JeromeK99]

Does anyone run a one-way diff? I got a used xxx-4 of ebay and it came with an unassemblied one-way. If it worth the effort to track down instructions on how to assemble it?

The one-way is a good option if you run a 2wd buggy. It makes the XXX-4 handle a lot easier "off-power" in the corners. It disengages the front wheels when you let off of the throttle. The wheels free spin. This rids the car of all the drivetrain drag letting the car turn very tight without power. The car has no problems "on-power" as the tires pull you around the corners. There are times however that you want to be off power and unfortunately the XXX-4 pushes like a dumptruck with the stock diff up front whenever you let off the throttle. If you have lots of tight turns it helps a lot.. or if you are just getting old like me.. lol..

There are a couple of downsides... first braking... with both front and rear diffs, the car stops on a dime! With the one-way, you only have the rear locking up... so it can get a little squirrely until you get used to it.. Second, in the air it becomes a little harder to bring the nose down on a big jump... luckily, the XXX-4 is one of the most stable in the air anyways.. jumps a lot like a 2wd buggy and usually needs little attitude adjustment to begin with. Just don't over power your jumps and you're good!

All-in-all, I would recommend you trying it if you have one!

Jerome :cool:

[gcurrier]

Today was my first time actually test running my new XXX-4. The front right joint of the CVD tore right at the pin. The pin was nowhere to be seen, the CVD is pretty toast. I was just getting on the track on the straight away. It was the bare minimum throttle I could give, maybe 1/8th of the way? I don't think it was something I did but maybe I set it up wrong? any ideas?

[JeromeK99]

Maybe the pin got loose... If it did, then it might have been putting all the force of the drive train on one hole in the CVD.. being aluminum... it can't take much.

Jerome

[krisnryan]

Today was my first time actually test running my new XXX-4. The front right joint of the CVD tore right at the pin. The pin was nowhere to be seen, the CVD is pretty toast. I was just getting on the track on the straight away. It was the bare minimum throttle I could give, maybe 1/8th of the way? I don't think it was something I did but maybe I set it up wrong? any ideas?

Are you using the LCD's that came with the kit? If so there no good. You can check my post on the first page of this thread. Use the mip cvd with red ring.

[Chris Wolfson]

Maybe the pin got loose... If it did, then it might have been putting all the force of the drive train on one hole in the CVD.. being aluminum... it can't take much.

Jerome

Agreed - just make sure your CVD's are assembled tightly at all times...

[gcurrier]

The nut was tight. It was about a full rotation passed flush with the screw hole, just the same as all the others. In fact today I looked and part of the pin was in there so I assume it snapped when it fell out of the car. I don't kow what it could have been but these CVD's seem pretty flimsy.

[HeatMiser]

Still not sure what you have...
LCDhttp://www.rcplanet.com/v/vspfiles/photos/LOSA3228-2T.jpg
or
CVDhttp://www.rcplanet.com/v/vspfiles/photos/MIP1568-1.jpg

I hear so many bad things about the LCD's, it really makes me wonder...

[Rara]

The LCD is a horrible design. I've blown both the fronts on my xxx-4 in under 10 packs. I had a hard time finding some MIP CVDs for the front. I ended up having to bid on some auctions on ebay to get a set. I even emailed MIP, but still no response.

BTW, Thanks Jerome for the detailed reply about the one-way.

[gcurrier]

I guess I had the LCD..

[gcurrier]

So today I dremeled a small allen key to the length I need for the pin and used the other set of holes. It works well as a temp fix.

[gcurrier]

Am I the only one who exsists in this forum? Anyways I got ahold of Losi, they're sending me a brand new CVD set. They said they're not LCD's, LCD's are a type of screen on electronics.

[JeromeK99]

Am I the only one who exsists in this forum? Anyways I got ahold of Losi, they're sending me a brand new CVD set. They said they're not LCD's, LCD's are a type of screen on electronics.

Cool deal! They need to learn their own product though.. lol
They named them LCDs....

http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA3228

http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/LOS/250/LOSA3228-250.jpg

Jerome :cool:

[Chris Wolfson]

Am I the only one who exsists in this forum? Anyways I got ahold of Losi, they're sending me a brand new CVD set. They said they're not LCD's, LCD's are a type of screen on electronics.

LCD is a driveshaft for the front of the Losi 4wd cars. A pair of them came in my last XXX4 G+ kit I built.

Here's a link from the Horizon Hobby website. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA3228

[HeatMiser]

Am I the only one who exsists in this forum? Anyways I got ahold of Losi, they're sending me a brand new CVD set. They said they're not LCD's, LCD's are a type of screen on electronics.
Maybe you'll luck out and the guy will send you the real deal... LOSA9968

[Rara]

Are the 9968 the steel shafted MIP CVDs?
I have a set of new 9966 which are the rear aluminum and 9967 (front aluminum).

I also have a LCD rebuild kit, but I don't even think I will bother rebuilding something that won't last.

[krisnryan]

Are the 9968 the steel shafted MIP CVDs?
I have a set of new 9966 which are the rear aluminum and 9967 (front aluminum).

I also have a LCD rebuild kit, but I don't even think I will bother rebuilding something that won't last.


Maybe one of the team drivers could give some advice on how to make these LCD shafts work?

[HeatMiser]

Are the 9968 the steel shafted MIP CVDs?
Yes, they are, or were....:( At least the rears are still available from MIP.

One thing I just found out about the fronts has to do with the axles. I've broken two of them in crashes, and of course, can't get new ones. However, the ones from a TC3 will work, and they are still available. I guess it's thanks to Team A for keeping my Losi going. :eek:

[azjeep]

Just put in the Mamba 5700 in my XXX4 G+. Holy crap! Thats fast. Only ran it for a min since its dark outside...but tomorrow will be fun. :D

[Y2KGTP]

Thought this might be of interest. when I had my XXX-4, I took some front body mounts from a 1/18th Late model (prob any similar type mounts would work) and made an adjustable battery hold down, as some of my LiPo's were thicker than others. They just
screwed in place where the stockers used to be.

I had to cut down the front post a bit to clear the body, but still had several layers of adjustability.

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/4849/img4289small.jpg

[Briguy]

Good idea .

[V-Liqour]

Yes Great Idea, I just put a couple of orings under the battery post to adjust them up a bit to take the ip5000 works a treat,
Bolted a 5.5 in wow that was insane.andwas just too faaaassssstt for me:eek:only had the buggy for 2 weeks, so an 8.5 seems to be plenty fast enough and controlable and does not kill the tyres too quick,

ANY one played with ackerman angles on there xxx4, what was the result?

great info on this thread helps a grat deal

Scott

[Y2KGTP]

I have a few sets of posts left if anyone is interested, just send me a PM. :D

[HeatMiser]

I need to do more in order to keep the batt in the car during crashes. So, here's what I do. One hardcased lipo attached to a piece of alum bar stock with thin double-sided tape and large diameter heat shrink tubing that is drilled for the mount points. This way, the car can cartwheel halfway down the track in into the wall at top speed, and not eject the batt. Works great.

[Chris Wolfson]

Nice solution, Heat...

[JeromeK99]

Yeah.. I noticed the problem too when I first went LiPo... landed a big jump and the battery came flying out!!!

All I did was take an old school servo block and screw it to the chassis along side the battery... this way it cant fly out. Five minute fix and I can use multiple batteries.

Jerome :cool:

[2fast4u]

i used velcro to attach the battery to the bar, never falls out anymore!:)

[M.Boos]

Do you run the servo saver that comes with the kit or just a servo arm without a saver?

[HeatMiser]

Do you run the servo saver that comes with the kit or just a servo arm without a saver?
I currently run a metal-gear servo with a plastic arm and no saver. When I had one on there, I'd swear it caused me to break spindles more often. It should be interesting to find out if there is a range of opinions on this subject...

[Chris Wolfson]

Do you run the servo saver that comes with the kit or just a servo arm without a saver?

I run the servo arm from the XXX 2wd buggy. That is in conjunction with the longer servo tie rod that goes to the other side of the bellcranks - steering mod...

[M.Boos]

The indoor season is coming and I´m loking for a indoor setup to start from.
Is there a basic indoor setup for carpet you guys are starting from?
Thanks!

[Chris Wolfson]

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j171/cwolfson30/RC%20Racing%20Miscellaneous/1003091005a.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j171/cwolfson30/RC%20Racing%20Miscellaneous/1003091004.jpg

[rob martin]

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j171/cwolfson30/RC%20Racing%20Miscellaneous/1003091005a.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j171/cwolfson30/RC%20Racing%20Miscellaneous/1003091004.jpg

Looks good. I should have one here veryyy soon~:D Ive been thinking about getting a corr truck also. Seems like it should be a low cost alternative to another class to run. Gary and a couple of other guys had strikes last saturday.

[Chris Wolfson]

Looks good. I should have one here veryyy soon~:D Ive been thinking about getting a corr truck also. Seems like it should be a low cost alternative to another class to run. Gary and a couple of other guys had strikes last saturday.

I'm waiting on the CORR truck also - just waiting for the next batch of them to come in...

[gcurrier]

So I still have no CVD or LCD from losi yet. I called and explained to whomever I spoke with that I called a few weeks ago and still had no product as promised. He said he's sending out LCD's tomorrow. I thought it was funny because after the big deal the original Tech made about "LCD is a screen on your clock not a car part". Anyways hopefully this works out.

[Chris Wolfson]

Try to find yourself a set of front CVD's from MIP... They work great on the front of the XXX4...

[Y2KGTP]

I thought this might be of interest to the xxx-4 guys....I would think it should fit as it's intended for a xxx-s

it's 20.95$ shipped. I believe it comes from overseas. I ordered a set of rear hubs a while back, and came quickly, and were made pretty nice.


http://www.asiatees.com/display.php?id=3445&brand=Team%20Losi&model=XXX-S&pid=1

http://www.asiatees.com/pic_loader.php?size=2&large=1&w=530&h=410&id=4208&html=1

[Daniel Yachnin]

Chris Wolfson- do you have a setup for carpet? what tires do you like on the car?

[Chris Wolfson]

Sorry - can't say I've ever run the car on carpet...

[Chris Wolfson]

Got to run my XXX4 yesterday at McCullough's Offroad in Sarver, PA on the high bite surface. We ran pink compound slicks with zip free. I will post my setup from yesterday as soon as I get a chance - hopefully it can help people out. Car ran very well for first time out. Some things I had to do for brushless and lipo - Dremel out area around motor so BL motor and sensor wire fit - dremel bumps on chassis in battery area to get lipo battery to sit flat. Still looking for a good way that I like to keep the battery in on big crashes. I saw a few options on here, but have to find something I like the way it looks.

[rob martin]

Got to run my XXX4 yesterday at McCullough's Offroad in Sarver, PA on the high bite surface. We ran pink compound slicks with zip free. I will post my setup from yesterday as soon as I get a chance - hopefully it can help people out. Car ran very well for first time out. Some things I had to do for brushless and lipo - Dremel out area around motor so BL motor and sensor wire fit - dremel bumps on chassis in battery area to get lipo battery to sit flat. Still looking for a good way that I like to keep the battery in on big crashes. I saw a few options on here, but have to find something I like the way it looks.

Yea like you said it seemed to get better as the day went on.

[marcusbrodie]

Anyone have issues with the Slipper Hub Flange touching the Pully Tensioner Arm? Rebuild my slipper plenty of times and seems fine. Getting lots of heat from the friction and has melted the belt tunnel a bit where the slipper shaft touches the graphite. Replaced the whole slipper hub but still getting contact. Flange doesn't seem to be parallel to the spur gear, any ideas?

[gcurrier]

Two weeks later, I've talked to two reps for losi, one treated me like an idiot, and then was horribly wrong, the other seemed like a "You can trust me" kinda guy. I still don't know if they were sent but I do know I don't have my LCD's. I base my support of hobby products strongly on customer service and support. Is losi usually on that ball with these things or has it always been experiances like mine?

[Chris Wolfson]

marcusbrodie - make sure you haven't cross-threaded the flange. Can you possibly just push/bend the flange away from the belt tensioner a little? I haven't had that issue.

gcurrier - my experience, even before I was a team driver was that customer service was pretty good. I'm not sure what the deal is. The only thing I can say is call back and stay with it until you get what you want. I've never known Losi customer service to not be fair.

[2fast4u]

Got to run my XXX4 yesterday at McCullough's Offroad in Sarver, PA on the high bite surface. We ran pink compound slicks with zip free. I will post my setup from yesterday as soon as I get a chance - hopefully it can help people out. Car ran very well for first time out. Some things I had to do for brushless and lipo - Dremel out area around motor so BL motor and sensor wire fit - dremel bumps on chassis in battery area to get lipo battery to sit flat. Still looking for a good way that I like to keep the battery in on big crashes. I saw a few options on here, but have to find something I like the way it looks.

put a strip of velcro on the hold down bar, and a piece on the battery, once i did that the lipo stayed in the tray even in the car breaking cart wheels!

[2fast4u]

Anyone have issues with the Slipper Hub Flange touching the Pully Tensioner Arm? Rebuild my slipper plenty of times and seems fine. Getting lots of heat from the friction and has melted the belt tunnel a bit where the slipper shaft touches the graphite. Replaced the whole slipper hub but still getting contact. Flange doesn't seem to be parallel to the spur gear, any ideas?

mine did that too, i think i took out one of the thin washers and then had to tighten the slipper up a bit more than i like.

[Chris Wolfson]

mine did that too, i think i took out one of the thin washers and then had to tighten the slipper up a bit more than i like.

I actually run the slipper locked. When you tighten it that much it must clear out of the way...

[Officespace]

I recently put a Mamba 6900KV motor in my car and now for some reason (???) I keep blowing the rear diff within 5-6 packs. The plastic diff pully keeps melting and the carbide diff balls get stuck in it. I've rebuilt it several different times now and have tried several types of diff grease, but it still keeps happening. Anyone have any suggestions or advice on how to stop this from happening?

[M.Boos]

I had the same problem with my XXX-CR, the diff was to loose and it slipped.

[JeromeK99]

I recently put a Mamba 6900KV motor in my car and now for some reason (???) I keep blowing the rear diff within 5-6 packs. The plastic diff pully keeps melting and the carbide diff balls get stuck in it. I've rebuilt it several different times now and have tried several types of diff grease, but it still keeps happening. Anyone have any suggestions or advice on how to stop this from happening?

Don't forget after you rebuild a diff, run it a few laps and then check it again.. Usually you have to tighten it a tad as everything settles in. Also make sure you change the diff nut every few rebuilds as well.. They do wear out.

Jerome :cool:

[Chris Wolfson]

I had the same problem with my XXX-CR, the diff was to loose and it slipped.

Exactly - you're running the diff too loose. Make sure you tighten it down slowly and follow proper break in, or it will also wear out quickly.

[marcusbrodie]

The snow-line is creeping down the mountains :D So I've been thinking about using my XX4 as a snow-racer :rolleyes: Figure on packed snow with studded tires it would be a blast. Electronics in balloons and velcro the body to the chassis then seal up openings w tape. Think it would work fine. Just wondering if the old XX4 plastic would hold up in the cold. Anyone run their cars in the winter?

[losidriver77]

if anybody has a problem with breaking shock towers the way I completely stoped it was put two shock towers on you will have to get longer screws and the dubro links

[JeromeK99]

if anybody has a problem with breaking shock towers the way I completely stoped it was put two shock towers on you will have to get longer screws and the dubro links

The problem with that is you will tend to start breaking the chassis then... The way to stop breaking shock towers is to land on all 4 wheels! Luckily this year I've only broke a couple of them. I do race modified... so the chance of breaking is always there. Even when a shock tower breaks on a XXX-4, it usually just cracks and you can finish your race. It is also about a 5min fix too! Changing a chassis is far more expensive and time consuming.

Jerome :cool:

[gcurrier]

Got ahold of Losi again, he told me he tried to call me yesterday to tell me they don't make the LCD's or CVD's anymore?! They did say they were working on the problem though.

I kinda wish I went with the CR=(

[Y2KGTP]

Some good tips for the xxx-4

Robert Gruen Shows How To Strengthen the xxx-4

http://www.xfactoryrc.com/rc/Tech/StrengthenXXX4.php

[krisnryan]

Here Are some pics of my xxx-4 doubling as a mod Rally car. Hopefully Rally cars will catch on like SC trucks did. There a blast to race and handle alot better than SC trucks.

[JeromeK99]

I think the XXX-4 got a bad reputation back when it was the only race 4wd available. Back in the day, you threw a mod in it... didn't know how to drive it and you crashed... Well of course its going to break! Now we have even more power available to run with... ya.. if you can't land on all 4 wheels... you are going to break stuff! Duh!

Its been my experience over the last year or so of racing my XXX-4 in modified, that it is one of the most durable out there! The only time it breaks is when I hit something I shouldn't, like a wall or a pipe... or when I land on less than 2 wheels at a time! lol I have only broken a couple of shock towers this last year... 2 arms and finally wore through my belt... I'm on the same set of gears and pulleys... I think other than a few front carriers/spindles.. that's about it! I think it's a tank compared to the other 4wd out there.. the B44 and ZX-5 cars go through front arms and gears all the time! I don't care what the net "Parrots" squawk about. The XXX-4 is far from fragile! You race mod.. you are going to break something. Period..

That X-Factory guy's mod is interesting.. but the only problem is you will still break at some time.. then if your car is all mod'ed out... you won't be able to do a quick trackside fix.

Jerome :cool:

[Chris Wolfson]

I agree - they all break eventually. There are too many moving parts and weak links on all the 4wd's to make them as bullet-proof as the 2wd cars. I found the XXX4 to be pretty sturdy also...

[zippy_91]

+1 on the durability factor for the XXX-4 G+. I just started racing 4wd mod this year and broke 1 shock tower and front hinge pin holder, which was completely my fault (clipped a pipe with the left font wheel). I cracked one other front shock tower, but was able to finish the race without any problems. As it was my first year, I put it through some pretty impressive crashes and it came out in great shape. These were the only broken parts in one season of racing. My friend was running a ZX-5, and for a couple of weekends he would have one race where he would break a front hub or front bulkhead.

[Chris Wolfson]

Had another great weekend racing the XXX4 indoors. Almost knocked off the B44's. Still finished 2nd. Here's the setup I've been running this year. Not originally developed by me, but what I'm using nonetheless...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j171/cwolfson30/Setup%20Sheets/WolfsonXXX4.jpg

[M.Boos]

During the winter season I run my XXX-4 on a high bite carpet track, so I really don´t need a slipper.
Now I just wanted to know what is the best way to do that?
Should I completely tighten the slipper or take all the parts from the slipper out or run the car with the spur from the XXX-S touring car?
Thanks!

[Briguy]

Your still gonna want a slipper on carpet .

[Chris Wolfson]

During the winter season I run my XXX-4 on a high bite carpet track, so I really don´t need a slipper.
Now I just wanted to know what is the best way to do that?
Should I completely tighten the slipper or take all the parts from the slipper out or run the car with the spur from the XXX-S touring car?
Thanks!

Lock it down - I took the stock assembly and used loctite - even CA glue on occasion to lock the nut down. With the slipper locked you will experience a bit more wear and tear on parts, especially on high bite tracks like carpet - but I really haven't found anywhere I needed the slipper. The car always performed much better for me with it locked...

[M.Boos]

Lock it down - I took the stock assembly and used loctite - even CA glue on occasion to lock the nut down. With the slipper locked you will experience a bit more wear and tear on parts, especially on high bite tracks like carpet - but I really haven't found anywhere I needed the slipper. The car always performed much better for me with it locked...

OK, thanks...I will try it.
But is it possible to use the XXX-S spur and run completly without the slipper parts?

[Chris Wolfson]

OK, thanks...I will try it.
But is it possible to use the XXX-S spur and run completly without the slipper parts?

I don't know - I've never tried it or even looked at the XXXS parts. I don't race on carpet...

[vhammer007]

If the carpet course has jumps on it, then you need to run the slipper. Unless you don't mind replacing pulleys now and then!

[losidriver77]

The problem with that is you will tend to start breaking the chassis then... The way to stop breaking shock towers is to land on all 4 wheels! Luckily this year I've only broke a couple of them. I do race modified... so the chance of breaking is always there. Even when a shock tower breaks on a XXX-4, it usually just cracks and you can finish your race. It is also about a 5min fix too! Changing a chassis is far more expensive and time consuming.

Jerome :cool:

I've run mine like that after breaking one of my shock towers and I have never broken my chassis I run the double shock tower setup for a year now and never had problems

[Barney]

Well Howdy Folks, 1st timer on here.
I bought my xxx4g+ used last winter and took it completely apart and totally cleaned and rebuilt it. I used the stock setup but didnt have much luck breaking some a-arms, mounts, & frt diff covers, but not have driven a 4wd in years and crashing badly against concrete brick walls didn't help, no fault of the cars either. BUT come to find out I think the used Novak GTB & 6.5 I put in it was not at all working properly. SO...this year I have an Exceleron 6400kv in it turned way way way down and it seems to be a WHOLE lot better. Did brake a frt spindle carrier and a 1way outdrive and bearing half piece last sat nite scuffing the wall a bit too hard and snagging the frt wheel nut, oops. But it felt a whole lot better. Probably but a diff in the frt and try that till I can get parts for the 1way? I run mostly in Topeka at Jakes RC on a 65x40 tacky clay indoor track, but sometimes go to Kansas City at Fastlane/Real RC indoor track also. Looking at a few different setups here lately, I got some helpful hints from Matt Lee at last years Turkey race at FL/RRC that I might try, his car didnt even look like a normal handling losi, it was wild. We have most other 4wd brands assoc, academy, kyosho, tamiya, even schumacher at Jakes to run against even, the class is starting to pickup interest! Welp I'v'e blabbed way too long. Thanx for some ideas and hints everybody, we'll try some 2mrw nite.
Richard Cantrell

[Chris Wolfson]

Good luck Richard... Let me know if I can help...

[Daniel Yachnin]

During the winter season I run my XXX-4 on a high bite carpet track, so I really don´t need a slipper.
Now I just wanted to know what is the best way to do that?
Should I completely tighten the slipper or take all the parts from the slipper out or run the car with the spur from the XXX-S touring car?
Thanks!

I race on carpet here in Canada at Fastcats every winter and you need the slipper or else you will strip the spur gear or destroy drive shafts in a couple of laps. make sure to lock it down as tight as you can without wrecking the nut so it will not slip. I have melted the spur and pads beacuse it slipped just a little and with the high traction thats what happens.

[M.Boos]

I race on carpet here in Canada at Fastcats every winter and you need the slipper or else you will strip the spur gear or destroy drive shafts in a couple of laps. make sure to lock it down as tight as you can without wrecking the nut so it will not slip. I have melted the spur and pads beacuse it slipped just a little and with the high traction thats what happens.

Thanks! Yes, I heard that from a few other people, so I will definitely use a slipper. Do you have a good setup for carpet that you could post please?
I´m the only one in my club who runs a XXX-4 so I´m happy for every setup tips I can get.

[Chris Wolfson]

You can always start with the setup I posted previously. For carpet I would probably increase the dampening by running some thicker oil so the car doesn't react as twitchy with the high traction of carpet. That would be where I would start...

[Daniel Yachnin]

Thanks! Yes, I heard that from a few other people, so I will definitely use a slipper. Do you have a good setup for carpet that you could post please?
I´m the only one in my club who runs a XXX-4 so I´m happy for every setup tips I can get.

Im still working on a good setup. I will Pm you when i finally get it though.

For now i am running the cavalieri setup with the front and rear shocks leaned all the way in.

[krisnryan]

Sorry [I know this has nothing to do with this thread
Just got the Alluminum shock towers done. Have not tried them out yet. 7000 alluminum CNC machined. 4 mm thick. They wont break but the chassis probably will:(:(:)
They do look sweet though

[Daniel Yachnin]

They look good!

[gcurrier]

So I'm on something like month 2 or 3, All losi has told me is they no longer make the front LCD or CVD so basically there is no part for my car, they ignore my numerous e-mails and daily calls. I'm kind of fed up that they sell products but refuse to help me out. Every one is telling me they have good CS but I fail to see it. I think my XXX-4 is going up for trades..

[Briguy]

So I'm on something like month 2 or 3, All losi has told me is they no longer make the front LCD or CVD so basically there is no part for my car, they ignore my numerous e-mails and daily calls. I'm kind of fed up that they sell products but refuse to help me out. Every one is telling me they have good CS but I fail to see it. I think my XXX-4 is going up for trades..

4wd had died for a while and seems about the time Losi gave up making some very much needed parts for the XXX-4 . 4wd is back and very surprised Losi hasn`t brought out a new buggy to be up to date with the rest as they are the only ones with an old design . I love Losi products but they need to open their eyes and either make the aluminum pivots , cvds and other parts to make it worth racing . I gave up on the XXX-4 and went back to a xx4 , older design but at least the front end stays together .

[Daniel Yachnin]

So I'm on something like month 2 or 3, All losi has told me is they no longer make the front LCD or CVD so basically there is no part for my car, they ignore my numerous e-mails and daily calls. I'm kind of fed up that they sell products but refuse to help me out. Every one is telling me they have good CS but I fail to see it. I think my XXX-4 is going up for trades..

Here is the part you are looking for http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA3228

There are currently unavailable but they are still made!
Any hobby shop will be able to order them and get them once they are off backorder

[Briguy]

I was told by several hobby shops and online stores they are no longer being made .

[Daniel Yachnin]

I am 99% sure they are still available. they are just backordered at the moment

[M.Boos]

What part number do the slipper pads have?
I can´t find them.
Thanks!

[zippy_91]

Here's what you need for the slipper - Team Losi Slipper Rebuild Kit (XXX-4) LOSA3265. I don't think you can buy the pucks seperately.

[gcurrier]

I am 99% sure they are still available. they are just backordered at the moment

I was told by Bill himself their partner who makes them has stopped.

[marcusbrodie]

MIP has a newer front CVD kit with pin capture rings. Also you can still get all the parts for the cvds separately from horizon, amain etc. Losi/horizon are dropping the ball on electric offroad race kits, next season is the last for my xxx4 and after that its Schumacher all the way. XXX4 is still a great car but there are far too many new and exciting 4wds out now, plus I want to support a company that isn't a huge corporate monster. Horizon needs to change Losi's name, it's not Losi anymore, SR and JR are long gone, even JR mom is gone.
My Schuey dream fleet
Mi4
Cat SX
new 2wd due in march.

[Chris Wolfson]

Here's the new CVD's from MIP. Should take care of all the driveshaft/axle issues when a front becomes available.

http://www.miponline.com/MIP/l-a10ccvd-b.html

[kghills]

Chris, thank you for the setup help and posting a setup sheet. I assume you do not have the camber and toe filled in as you adjust that for the track bite just like an onroad sedan. My son races at Trackside in Milwaukee and is the only XXX-4 or Losi to race in the wheeler class. We are new to this so your voice on this forum really helps. Maybe a team driver will be racing one at the Spektrum race in December at Trackside.

It is interesting to see so much traffic on this thread given the age of the vehicle. Maybe Losi will take this to heart.

Thanks again, Keith and Jason.

[Chris Wolfson]

Chris, thank you for the setup help and posting a setup sheet. I assume you do not have the camber and toe filled in as you adjust that for the track bite just like an onroad sedan. My son races at Trackside in Milwaukee and is the only XXX-4 or Losi to race in the wheeler class. We are new to this so your voice on this forum really helps. Maybe a team driver will be racing one at the Spektrum race in December at Trackside.

It is interesting to see so much traffic on this thread given the age of the vehicle. Maybe Losi will take this to heart.

Thanks again, Keith and Jason.

No problem - the car is highly competitive, especially on the right tracks. The drive train is very efficient. Alot of times in 4wd it comes down to driving style. I'm lucky enough that this car suits mine.

Any help I can give you with the car, don't hesitate to ask.

[tinkerbell]

What does someone need to do to get a lipo battery to fit in the xxx4g or is it a direct fit??

[zippy_91]

I use a Reedy 5000 in my buggy, and I used a dremel to grind off the ridges on the chassis for the side by side type batteries. I left a little bit of the ridges on outside of the chassis to help kep the battery from sliding to the side. Once the ridges are removed, the battery fits perfect. I put a little foam in front and behind the battery to keep it fom sliding. I can post a picture if you would like.

[Briguy]

Or you can flip the battery brace .

[hoodeater]

Looking for front CVD's for our XXX4 G+. The LCD's just won't hold up for me.

Is it true that the only option currently being sold by hobby shops is the front CVD's for a TC3?

Thanks...

[Briguy]

If you find CVDs that work , let me know . Been trying to find some for my xx4 .

[HeatMiser]

The TC3 axles will work, but you'll still need bones of the right length.

[hoodeater]

Any idea on what bones are the right length?

[tinkerbell]

that be cool thanks it would help alot thanks

[HeatMiser]

Any idea on what bones are the right length?
About 3.25".

[losidriver77]

If you can buy online they are everywhere the best place is the www.losipartshouse.com every thing you need is there

[losidriver77]

I just posted something about it you can buy them at www.losipartshouse.com

[krisnryan]

Looking for front CVD's for our XXX4 G+. The LCD's just won't hold up for me.

Is it true that the only option currently being sold by hobby shops is the front CVD's for a TC3?

Thanks...

You have to call MIP Moores Ideal Products i believe. They are pretty helpfull. Im pretty sure they have the right size bones, but not the axles. So what you have to do is get the axles for the xx-4. The problem is the diameter is to big. You have to turn them down on a Lathe to .185 ". Unless you can find some axles some were else. The pics show the axles turned down. Hope this helps.

[Y2KGTP]

I believe UltimateHobbies had them in stock as well....

[scrivtwin2]

is there anyway to get a xx4 spur gear setup to work with a xxx4?

[Y2KGTP]

You have to call MIP Moores Ideal Products i believe. They are pretty helpfull. Im pretty sure they have the right size bones, but not the axles. So what you have to do is get the axles for the xx-4. The problem is the diameter is to big. You have to turn them down on a Lathe to .185 ". Unless you can find some axles some were else. The pics show the axles turned down. Hope this helps.

I thought you just had to swap out for a different ID bearing size to make these work?

[krisnryan]

I thought you just had to swap out for a different ID bearing size to make these work?

Yes you can do that. But MIP told me that the xx4 bearings fail because of the bigger id. It made sense to me becasue if the id is bigger and the od stays the same the actual balls in the bearing would be very small. MIP said that is why losi made that change on the xxx4 to beaf up the bearing.

[Y2KGTP]

Yes you can do that. But MIP told me that the xx4 bearings fail because of the bigger id. It made sense to me becasue if the id is bigger and the od stays the same the actual balls in the bearing would be very small. MIP said that is why losi made that change on the xxx4 to beaf up the bearing.

Good point. Sigh....

The hoops you have to jump threw to keep a 10yr old buggy running :D

[krisnryan]

Good point. Sigh....

The hoops you have to jump threw to keep a 10yr old buggy running :D

You are right. Support is running out on this car.

[hoodeater]

Thanks all for the help... I'll give MIP a call and see what they recommend.

Always been a Losi fan but I wish I would have known a bit more about the XXX4 G+ before I bought it. It is going to suck if parts are going to be this hard to get for a buggy I just bought 2 months ago.

[krisnryan]

Maybe our xxx4's arent so outdated after all. The molded carbon chassis on the Hotbodies ve8 looks like an 8th scale xxx4 with out the battery cutouts.

[Briguy]

:confused: Looks nothing like it . Besides being flat and a cut out for the motor .

[krisnryan]

:confused: Looks nothing like it . Besides being flat and a cut out for the motor .

Use your imagination. The xxx4 is molded carbon ve8 is molded carbon. Same Tray design. Im just saying its similar.

[Q Roo]

I just bought one of these cars used and cheap and its surprizingly in good condition. I run on an indoor track with excellent traction and no loose dirt. The track is supercross style and very well maintained as far as I could tell. I am curious what suggestions you folks might have for shock oil. I do not know what is in it, and I am getting ready to rebuild the shocks anyway. Thanks, any info would be helpful.

[krisnryan]

I just bought one of these cars used and cheap and its surprizingly in good condition. I run on an indoor track with excellent traction and no loose dirt. The track is supercross style and very well maintained as far as I could tell. I am curious what suggestions you folks might have for shock oil. I do not know what is in it, and I am getting ready to rebuild the shocks anyway. Thanks, any info would be helpful.

Stock is 30 wt front and rear but if you have a high bite track you could go up from there.

[tpersons311]

Hey guys, I have a xxx4 with a mamba 7500kv in it I run a 5000mah venom lipo. I Geared it down to a 94 spur and 14 pinion like mamba suggested. I am having problem that seems like the slipper is too loose but its not. It whines when you accelerate then stops once it gets up to speed but still doesnt go very fast and accelerates extremely slow. Its also still running pretty hot. If I stop on a jump with on front wheel and one back wheel still touching the ground and accelerate the 2 wheels in the air will spin but the ones touching the ground just stay stopped. Is this a cause of the differentials bein to loose? I need somewere to start. Thanks....

[zippy_91]

Make sure to check your slipper. The slipper on the XXX-4 gets loose very easy. I ended up doing what many have done. I tightened up the slipper and used loctite on the slipper nut. This keeps it from coming loose. If it has been spinning as you described, you most likely will need to replace the slipper pucks. These can become glazed pretty easily if the slipper is loose. Hope this helps.

[tpersons311]

How exactly do you tighten the slipper? Is it the 2 bolts that are on the outside of the chassis? Thanks.

[krisnryan]

How exactly do you tighten the slipper? Is it the 2 bolts that are on the outside of the chassis? Thanks.

There is a special tool to tighten the slipper. go to losi's xxx4 page and down load the manual, i think it shows the tool in there and procedure. Your diffs are to loose if your back wheels sit still and the fronts spin. Its a single belt drive so what ever the front wheels see the rear wheels see. if you ran it that way for a while the diff balls are probaly bad, and need to be rebuilt.

[Daniel Yachnin]

How exactly do you tighten the slipper? Is it the 2 bolts that are on the outside of the chassis? Thanks.

You need to pul the entire slipper assembly out of the car. then you can tighten the nut down with the tool losi supplies but it is a little finicky or you can use a 17mm wrench or socket which will make life a little more easy

[tpersons311]

Ok 17mm socket sounds good, I have no Idea were th slipper wrench went. I've had this car for almost 2 years and it has barely been run and I've forgotten how to do everything. What do the 2 bolts that go on each side of the chasis and hold the slipper in specifically do. The problem seems to happen if those loosen up, but if theyre all the way tight it seems like the spur can't spin freely? Does this mean my slipper is actually to tight? or are those bolts for adjustment on it? Thanks

[Geofiveo]

I just recently got a XXX-4 G+ and looking to buy all electronics. What servo would you suggest? Any other suggetions would be great.

[zippy_91]

Ok 17mm socket sounds good, I have no Idea were th slipper wrench went. I've had this car for almost 2 years and it has barely been run and I've forgotten how to do everything. What do the 2 bolts that go on each side of the chasis and hold the slipper in specifically do. The problem seems to happen if those loosen up, but if theyre all the way tight it seems like the spur can't spin freely? Does this mean my slipper is actually to tight? or are those bolts for adjustment on it? Thanks

A 17mm socket seems to work best, as it has more contact with the slipper nut. The 2 bolts that go in on each side hold the spur gear and act as a pivot point for the belt tensioner. There should be enough shims on the inside and washers on the outside to allow the 2 bolts to be tightened completely without binding.

[kghills]

Looking for some help with gearing. Smaller indoor track with high bite clay. Wanting to run 8.5 brushless with a 92 spur gear. Any suggestions for pinion size?

Thank you, Keith.

[Daniel Yachnin]

Looking for some help with gearing. Smaller indoor track with high bite clay. Wanting to run 8.5 brushless with a 92 spur gear. Any suggestions for pinion size?

Thank you, Keith.

I would use around a 17-18 tooth pinion

[Chris Wolfson]

I would use around a 17-18 tooth pinion

I agree - I think I'm running 17/92 with a 6.5....you might be able to run the 18 or even a 19.

[Darrin Quinn]

Good run @ the Fastcats Christmas Classic Daniel...Your car looked great in the A Main, I ordered the MIP CVD for the rear on my XXX 4... Hopefullly these don't fall off like the stock ones..:)

[Daniel Yachnin]

Good run @ the Fastcats Christmas Classic Daniel...Your car looked great in the A Main, I ordered the MIP CVD for the rear on my XXX 4... Hopefullly these don't fall off like the stock ones..:)

Thanks! Rember to use the red ring mip gives in the package or shrink tubing. This helps to hold the pins in if the set screw backs off a bit.

[SteveM]

I'm just bought a lightly used XXX4g+ and I'm looking for a lexan lower chassis protector to help in keeping the internals clean. Losi doesn't seem to make one for this buggy. Any ideas?

[Briguy]

I'm just bought a lightly used XXX4g+ and I'm looking for a lexan lower chassis protector to help in keeping the internals clean. Losi doesn't seem to make one for this buggy. Any ideas?

You are right , Losi doesn`t make them . I never seen the need to make on . Unless your racing on dry dusty conditions not much gets into the car .

[SteveM]

You are right , Losi doesn`t make them . I never seen the need to make on . Unless your racing on dry dusty conditions not much gets into the car .

Hmm.....still would like something to protect the insides. I suppose the sealed drivetrain helps to a certain degree. I've heard that the one from an AE B44 wrks with some mods.

[Briguy]

I`m not sure if it is wide enough for the XXX-4 .

[Chris Wolfson]

Hmm.....still would like something to protect the insides. I suppose the sealed drivetrain helps to a certain degree. I've heard that the one from an AE B44 wrks with some mods.

You don't need it - the drive train is sealed. The idea is to get additional cooling to your electronics. I used to not like the nimh batteries scraping, but now with the hard case lipo packs, it's not an issue anymore. Just let it fly with a bare bottom! :D

[dano-6807]

I'm ok with leaving the battery tray unprotected as iI run Lipo's. But i'm concerened about the motor opening in the chassis, as I have damaged motors from hard landings, rocks, etc...
Any suggestions on how to protect the motor without losing the cooling effect?

[radar2819]

hello anyone have any set up tips and hop ups ideas for the xxx-4. for set up its for a very high bite track. thanks

[losidriver77]

I'm ok with leaving the battery tray unprotected as iI run Lipo's. But i'm concerened about the motor opening in the chassis, as I have damaged motors from hard landings, rocks, etc...
Any suggestions on how to protect the motor without losing the cooling effect?

if you are using the stock motor mount then the motor should not hit

I put the low center gravity motor mount on mine and it scraped but with the stock it doesn't

[losidriver77]

I run the servo arm from the XXX 2wd buggy. That is in conjunction with the longer servo tie rod that goes to the other side of the bellcranks - steering mod...

I run the servo arm from the xx-4

[default.hostility]

greetings! I've dusted off my brushless g+ after a few months of inactivity and i've been having a problem with the car pulling hard to the right under heavy acceleration.. the car tracks in a straight line when coasting or moderate speed gains.. but mashing the throttle results in pull to right.. i thought maybe my rear diff was too tight and rear tires were getting out from underneath me but that doesn't seem to be the problem. any ideas on what to look at? Thanks!

[edit]under closer scrutiny I noticed the little red ball in my front-right pivot block was missing and the hinge pin had maybe 2-2.5mm of play.. this is probably the culprit

[Chris Wolfson]

When it does something like that, look for things bound up or broken. I had a slight "torque steer" which you technically shouldn't have in a belt driven car and it ended up a loose wheel where the hex was spinning inside and not applying throttle to that wheel - thus the car pulled. Check for stuff like that...

[hitordie010]

Is there going to be a new 4wd buggy in the near future? Will they go back to the saddle pack style like on the xx-4 wce?

[MDogSquad]

I've been scratching my head for the past two days for different tire combos. Not for the life of me can I figure out the front tires. I want to run like a standard 2.2 on the front but the wheel hubs are to thick. Is there something that works for front wheels and tires that aren't just the Losi ones.

I'm running an indoor blue groove track and an outdoor bumpy medium grip clay

I admit defeat!! Any good suggestions?

[hitordie010]

For tires on tracks like that JConcepts Barcodes work well in the front. Usually gold or blue compound is the hot ticket. Maybe a holeshot or double dees might work too if the track gets dusty. I have a local track thats has the same characteristics as you said and barcodes work well if its swept good. Just my two cents. Hope this helped ya:)

[MDogSquad]

yeah that defiantly helps thanks

what wheels can you use? Can the xxx-4 use the jconcepts rulux front wheels? or are we stuck with the losi wheels

[hitordie010]

I don't know abut those wheels, but when I got the b44 I was able to use my losi rims on the associated no problem. So you should be able to.

[MDogSquad]

has anyone run the spur gear and belt gear off the xxx-s

i hate slipper clutches so this one just eliminates the whole thing. but the belt i think is to short.
can i get smaller belt gears on the diffs?

[Darrin Quinn]

I just replaced my belt and now the tentioner want even go close to the to where it needs to....It is about an inch from the adjustment hole... I measured and compared the original I am replacing and it is the same length? :confused: Any idea guy's?

[MDogSquad]

YEAH!! thats what happen to me! im so mad.. i cant figure it out. I tried a new idler pully but couldnt find bearings for it. i spent like 2 hours looking for bearings today :mad:

[MDogSquad]

I've fallen on some hard times and need to sell all my XXX-4. It sucks that it has come to this but it's something that I need to do.

I've got it listed on ebay with the sidewinder setup and all the extras. It's ebay item number 190371016877 if anyone wants to check it out.

if you've got questions or wanna make a deal or something lemme know

[bas217]

does antone know where i can get steel or aluminum outdrive cups for my xxx-4if u do plz send me an email at icessdaddy06@yahoo.com..........thanks

[birdie_in_texas]

I just recently bought a used xxx-4 +g, it looked like a "great" deal of course until I go to try an dget a few parts for it, as the front cvd dog bones are just warped/bent all to ****...and I cannot find any MIP that says it is for certain if it is for the front or rears..

I just read through all 20 pages of this thread (yes, it is that slow at work) and am trying to ascertain just exactly what CVD's I need for the front...I would send the car back to the guy and demand my money back, but he will not even respond to me..I guess I know why now as it seems there is no support at all from LOSI on this..

SO I for sure need front CVD's, but freakishly, there are these huge ourtageous looking universal things on the rear, and the rear has these big square blocky looking hub carriers that have the balls on top..so every manual I have downloaded off the net most certainly does NOT show these as a part for the xxx-4, anyone care to take a guess at just what kind of "mutt" I have here..?

The only power system I have to use is a mamba max with a 5700KV motor, wihch I am told is like stupidly too much power, but it is all I have...

I have never owned a LOSI, and it has been YEARS since I had any r/c cars, I mean my last car was the newly released traxxas 4tec Pro..so that is what, 10 years ago..? So I am like a complete newb again.

Where would you guys start with this..? Just post the thing for sale and go again?

any suggestions would be amazingly wonderful to read..

Thank you,

Birdie :)

[Chris Wolfson]

Sounds like you might possibly have a newer "CR" rear hub carrier and I'm guessing it's just the losi driveshaft in lieu of a CVD. Take a picture for us with a cell phone cam or something and post it up. You need to look for front CVD's for the XXX4 which are hard to find, or you need to find the Losi LCD driveshaft for the front.

Is this the rear hub on the car? http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA2129

How about this for the rear drive shafts? http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA3081

Here are the LCD's you need for the front, although they are out of stock until March - http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSA3228

Hope this helps somewhat. A set of front CVD's for the XX4 or XXX4 would be great but probably hard to find.

[birdie_in_texas]

yes to all three of those..that is exactly what is on the buggy now..

another concern..the front end is so sloppy loose..i mean it oves enough to make steering very difficult I am guessing..

it does have those cool metal hinge pin holders, and I can see the little red things poking out a bit from the backside of hinge pin carrier..so I have no idea what in the world why this is sooo freaking loose..

The rear universal things are VERY short..just setting there is probably not 3 or 4 mm of the dog bone in the carrier..man..it scares me...

It looks like the guy put lunsfords on at least..

Is there any way to tell how many teeth is on the spur without taking the thing apart? it has a **** of a lot of teeth on it..I am guessing at least 80+

[Chris Wolfson]

You may not have the right size of dogbone if it isn't fitting in the outdrive. The BK2 dogbone is shorter - you might have those. They look the same. As far as the spur - what color is it? If it's tan, it should say how many teeth on the side of it. If it's another color, it's indicative to what size it is.

[birdie_in_texas]

the spur is kind of a creamy white, but it is installed and I cannot see any marking on it at all..but it has a buttload of teeth..

I am just going to take the little clear cover off and count them..

i got a message form a few people that are telling me the 4WD class that is "semi local" to me has basically died since the 4WD Slash came out..so it seems I am wasting all this money and effort on something that has died off..

This is very frustrating..but thank you for your help..

[Chris Wolfson]

I can't really speak for your local track, but 4wd has been making a comeback in alot of areas. I would suggest you rebuild the front end to see what is sloppy - it may need new red bushings or things just might need tightened up. I don't know about the longevity of 4wd slash - I wasn't real impressed with the one I saw and it seems like the design isn't real conducive to turning. We shall see.

[birdie_in_texas]

I agree..the slash's are turds..they are like giant toys from wal-mart, but ****ed hard to kill, which is a big plus for all the newbs like me..and with Traxxas absolutely making every call in the industry right now, it will be a long while before this phase is gone I am afraid..

I just cannot see spending $400 on one of the new 4x4 slashes myself..no way..

The front end on the xxx4 is completely worn out..every ball cup needs to be replaced and the steering is garbage...the entire steering system probably needs to be replaced, which is probably not that bad of a job, but I am sick to death over this buggy already..what I got and what the guy advertised are VERY different things..It is going to cost me $100 to get this thing "ship shape"...

I am almost to the point where I am going to chuck it all up on the boards and figure something else to run..it is not the buggies fault..it is my fault for not asking enough questions and not asking for a lot more "close up" pictures..a mistake I will not likely make again..not realizing that it is a "frankenstein" made up of different vehicles etc...

Oh well..it is my luck I guess...

[Pascal Robichaud]

Now I'm done, there no way I can see how to make my xxx4 g+ better. And it's not good at all.

I have try 1 heat with a b44 (very used tire, chinese servo and to much motor) and i have beat my best result by 1.5 laps on a 6 minute heat... And you can't imagine how much I hate to said that.

Look at my signature, I haved always race losi car , But now I am tired.

My first car was a losi and since i haved only race TEAM LOSI car.

just for this season, I haved break so many lcd and hub i can't count.

- The sleeper dont work at all (it's better wiht the xxx-s spur but...)
- no low speed steering on tight curve
- and the front end is so fragile, feel like crystal

Please do something. At least come back wiht the xx4 we, This car was way better.:confused:

My xxx4 was a bad car but the xxx4 g+ is worst, from my point of vue, stop sell it or do someting, you didn't stole me but it's close!!!!

[Chris Wolfson]

I agree..the slash's are turds..they are like giant toys from wal-mart, but ****ed hard to kill, which is a big plus for all the newbs like me..and with Traxxas absolutely making every call in the industry right now, it will be a long while before this phase is gone I am afraid..

I just cannot see spending $400 on one of the new 4x4 slashes myself..no way..

The front end on the xxx4 is completely worn out..every ball cup needs to be replaced and the steering is garbage...the entire steering system probably needs to be replaced, which is probably not that bad of a job, but I am sick to death over this buggy already..what I got and what the guy advertised are VERY different things..It is going to cost me $100 to get this thing "ship shape"...

I am almost to the point where I am going to chuck it all up on the boards and figure something else to run..it is not the buggies fault..it is my fault for not asking enough questions and not asking for a lot more "close up" pictures..a mistake I will not likely make again..not realizing that it is a "frankenstein" made up of different vehicles etc...

Oh well..it is my luck I guess...

I wouldn't call it a Frankenstein. The CR hubs and the dogbones are something alot of people run on their XXX4. Personally, I run the same dogbones in the back. I don't run a CR rear hub, though. I run an aluminum aftermarket hub to get the same vertical ballstuds but keeping the geometry where I want it. As far as the front end, change those ball cups out... As far as what else is worn out, I'm not sure. If the ballcups are just really old, that will probably be the source of all the play. The only other thing I can see is worn front plastics - a-arms, etc... even then, if you just replace the ballcups I bet you will see a big improvement. Sorry you're having a tough time with this buggy. Shoot some pics of the front end. I'd love to see what else is worn out and how beat up the buggy is. What did the seller have to say about all this? I'm betting he's not returning your e-mails or calls...

[Frank Root]

Looking forward to getting my XXX-4 ready for Cactus!

[dano-6807]

Anyone hear anything about a new 4wd buggy yet? The XXX4G+ is a great buggy, but come on, its getting extremely hard to find parts anymore. Ever since I went to brushless, I have broke just about every important part on this thing. These things just werent made to handle even moderate brushless power. The slipper has been garbage since day one, even with brushed motors. Both diffs are junked out and there dont seem to be any more on the planet. And the cvd's snap like twigs. I cant even find the wheels I like anymore. Dont get me wrong, I still think this buggy is the quickest, smoothest buggy I have ever drove, and recommend them to everyone, as far as perfomance is concerned......But please, enough of the cheap RTR's and come out with a new 4wd buggy!!!! ( a new stadium truck would be awsome too! ) Any one know of a good place to buy parts for these things???

[Briguy]

It would sure be nice if they have one in the works , until they do I`m driving a Schumacher Cat SX . No need for a new stadium as it is great the way it is .

[magnus]

Why so quiet about setups for the xxx4g+? Can't any teamdriver please post it here like you do for the xxx?

[Darrin Quinn]

I just replaced my belt and now the tentioner want even go close to the to where it needs to....It is about an inch from the adjustment hole... I measured and compared the original I am replacing and it is the same length? :confused: Any idea guy's?
Finally realized what it was.. I had bought 2 HD belts for my buggy, installled one didn't fit? Opened the other package and compared it with the old one same length?:confused: The new one I put in was actually packaged wrong.... It was for the XXX S... Yellow belt indentical..

[MCSRacing]

anyone know where to find front wheel hex's? seems that the car has a boat load of discontinued parts and it is still in production ...

[MCSRacing]

anyone?????? wow losi has went down hill big time. i have been running losi's since the old jrx2 .. this company is outragious, i have 4 losi vehicles that are still being sold and losi don't manufacture parts for them any longer :mad::mad::mad::mad:

[Briguy]

The hexes came with the CVDs which are no longer made . I would put some B44 hexes on . They seem to given up many parts a few years ago , like the aluminum front inner pivots and other parts .

Supposedly Losi is bringing out a new 1/10 line up this coming fall .

[MCSRacing]

guess ill pull the a hex off my b44 and see if it will fit, everyone i know say's they won't but i may take a set to the machine shop and have them thinned out on a lathe if they'll work

[Frank Root]

I believe a complete LCD set will come with hexes, but unfortuanately they are currently on B/O with a mid April ETA LOSA3228.

Frank

[MOGGIE XL]

The B44 hex will fit OK and will let you use B44 wheels on the car.I am using the older XX4
drive shafts on my XXX4 and they seem to be much better then those silly LCD things that
Losi make now but you need different bearings.When they wear you just need the plastic
bit.

[racingbrian16]

i just went to the cactus classis in scottsdale,az nad saw the losi guys with their xxx4's. where can i find the parts for the steeing sys. they r running(they arent running the stock parts rom my kit)?i cant ge mine to turn like the pro guys cars r turning. any help would be apprecited i dont want to sell the car but if i cant get it to turn like my xx4 i will have to.

[Frank Root]

The car uses JRXS Bellcranks, and the steering rack is something 'homemade'. The mounting of the steering posts, and opening of the chassis for the rack to go through both require modification.

[FrenchKiss]

Losi put some fast drivers on Amain at the cactus classic.
Could we see some pictures of the factory team cars ???
Is there some setups for this car with brusless and lipo.

Thxs for your help !

[ncbschzzt]

i just went to the cactus classis in scottsdale,az nad saw the losi guys with their xxx4's. where can i find the parts for the steeing sys. they r running(they arent running the stock parts rom my kit)?i cant ge mine to turn like the pro guys cars r turning. any help would be apprecited i dont want to sell the car but if i cant get it to turn like my xx4 i will have to.

if you look at the car you can see a few possibilties to get more steering throw, u have to be willing to "trim" a little here and there. The advantage to being on good team is there is always that "guy" who is cutting bending and hacking away at stuff to make something a little bit better. I.E, the next generation of the xxx-4......

[M.Boos]

Have a look at rcevilempire.com, there´s a report from the cactus classic with lots of pictures.

[Frank Root]

Have a look at rcevilempire.com, there´s a report from the cactus classic with lots of pictures.

There is a picture of Truhe's XXX-4 on the Main Day link on the front page at rcevilempire.com.

I will post some pictures soon of mine.

Frank

[raistlin119]

Hi, I know this is a long shot - really long but does anyone know/have a set of the aluminium pivot blocks for the front and rear of the xxx4 and would be willing to part with them?

Thanks.

[Frank Root]

Your best bet is to find a whole car for sale on Ebay, Craig's List etc with the block on it a snatch it up. I know a couple of guys who have done this.

[MOGGIE XL]

I'm looking forward to seeing those pics of your car Frank also do you know anything about the XXXS pivot block mod I remember seeing in RCCA about 4 or 5 years ago that Mike Truhe had on his car.

[Frank Root]

I haven't been told anything about XXX-S pivots, and I know for sure Truhe, Evans, Chambers, and myself are all running the standard height alum. pivots. I still need to take those photos, if only I could remember when I am at home...:confused:

[ctrskistad13]

What is the word on a new 4wd buggy? I know the team fellas know so lets spill the beans. Gear diff? 4.5mm shock towers? The mind runs wild with what your up to.

[66racer]

There are only 2 bodies that I'm aware of for the XXX-4, both are from Losi. The Intruder, which was the original XXX-4 body and the sleeker, Aurora. The Intruder has the most clearance and will allow you to fit most brushless ESC with a fan and large prong brushless motors. I run one with a GTB and a Velociti motor. I tried with an Aurora body, but just too many wires jam packed under the lid.

The only down side to the Intruder body with a XXX-4G+ is that the wing isn't made for running the rear shocks behind the tower. It was made for the original layout with the plastic shock towers and forward mounted back shocks. No biggie.. just change the wing or cut out some notches..

Jerome :cool:

Did you mean the invader? I have the aurora body and have clearance issues as well with the novak brushless motor.

[Briguy]

Your best bet is to find a whole car for sale on Ebay, Craig's List etc with the block on it a snatch it up. I know a couple of guys who have done this.

+1

I lost an auction on ebay that the xxx-4 had the aluminum pivots . Luckily I found another on RC Tech and bought it .

[Briguy]

Anyone have a good setup for clay high bite track ?

[FrenchKiss]

No Recommended setup with lipo for this car?

[Frank Root]

Anyone have a good setup for clay high bite track ?

No Recommended setup with lipo for this car?

Here is the setup I have been running:

Front - 32.5wt, 57piston, .050" lim, silver springs, middle-outside, 4 link w/1 washer, diff, LCDs, 7.5* pivot, -1* camber, 0* toe, 20mm RH,

Rear - 27.5wt, 56 piston, .050" lim, gray springs, inside-inside, 2-a link, .055" sway bar, hubs back, dogbones, -1* camber, 21mm RH, battery forward, Aurora wing w/ 1/4" wicker.

Let me know if you have any questions!

[FrenchKiss]

Thank you for your setup.
I will try this.
Do you keep you slipper loose? or overtight?

Have you a picture of the steering mod?

[FrenchKiss]

Is it possible to put the
Team Losi Monster Differential Square Spring/Screw Set
[LOSA2908]
in place of
Team Losi Monster Differential Adjusting Screw, Hardware
[LOSA2909]

On the XXX4???

Because i think the adjustment is better with a spring.

[Briguy]

Is it possible to put the
Team Losi Monster Differential Square Spring/Screw Set
[LOSA2908]
in place of
Team Losi Monster Differential Adjusting Screw, Hardware
[LOSA2909]

On the XXX4???

Because i think the adjustment is better with a spring.

2908 will work and is the replacement for the old setup .

Here is a pic of the steering mod -

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i260/Briguy_01/P4220018-1.jpg

[speedster1919]

French kiss This is the diff parts to help make it bulletproof.
Use the LOSA2908 kit with the square spring and loose the stupid beveled washers.
Use the LOSA3018 diff ball kit and loose those eight seperate balls.
This will give you a diff that will maintain the tension.

[dano-6807]

Does anyone know where to get rear CVD's for the XXX-4 G+.. I cant seem to find them anywhere. PLEASE HELP!!!
Thanks.

[Briguy]

Does anyone know where to get rear CVD's for the XXX-4 G+.. I cant seem to find them anywhere. PLEASE HELP!!!
Thanks.

These fit - http://www.losipartshouse.com/servlet/the-29316/MIP08131-C-dsh-CVD-Kit-cln--XX-dsh-4%2C/Detail

[speedster1919]

The xxx buggy axles will fit the rear xxx-4. This is the dogbone style and are bulletproof in the buggies. part # LOSA3081-LOSA3014-LOSA3015. These are plentiful and still seviced by losi. I like steel better than aluminum for wear and strengh. The dogbones are the right lengh.

[Frank Root]

Thank you for your setup.
I will try this.
Do you keep you slipper loose? or overtight?

Have you a picture of the steering mod?

I set the slipper, not loose, but not locked. I usually set it the same way you would a 2wd, by holding down the rear tires and punching the throttle. Look for the front end to lift about 2 inches. After it is properly set, I put a ring of glue around the nut.

Is it possible to put the
Team Losi Monster Differential Square Spring/Screw Set
[LOSA2908]
in place of
Team Losi Monster Differential Adjusting Screw, Hardware
[LOSA2909]

On the XXX4???

Because i think the adjustment is better with a spring.

I prefer the bevel washers myself, I think they are more consistent. I always use 6, but arranged like this:

()()()

If you put them like this, it doesn't work nearly as well:

))))))

Also, I like to use the HD Thrust Bearing Washers, then pop the balls out of the cage and it takes 8-9 balls to fill the grooves.

Does anyone know where to get rear CVD's for the XXX-4 G+.. I cant seem to find them anywhere. PLEASE HELP!!!
Thanks.

They should be the same as the XXX-CR CVDs, sold by MIP. I would really suggest the Dog Bones though, they really work better for the XXX-4, especially with LCD's in the front.

[J.Phelps]

Hi Frank,
I have a few questions for you on your setup. Have you added any weight to the car? What battery are you running? What motor and gearing are you running? And what are your speedo settings at?
Thanks Jeff

[66racer]

what about front cvd's? I have been searching like crazy. Sucks losi/mip stopped making them. Is the new losi style the only option?

Still wondering which body has more clearance for brushless motors too. I have to special order, NONE of the local shops carry them here.

Why the heck has the losi fallen from the lime light? Its age? Still seems like a great buggy if losi just released a revised version of the g+ with simular mods that we do with losi parts anyways.

[Briguy]

Good luck finding front CVDs , it took me a good 2 months of watching forums and ebay till I finally found a set . I don`t care for the LCDs . I think some parts for this buggy are no more because a new 4wd is on the way . Hopefully this fall when the supposedly new 1/10 lineup is supposed to be released .

[Frank Root]

Hi Frank,
I have a few questions for you on your setup. Have you added any weight to the car? What battery are you running? What motor and gearing are you running? And what are your speedo settings at?
Thanks Jeff

I have no weight in the car. I am using the new Xcelorin 40C 5000mah Lipo Pack. I am running an Xcelorin 5.5 motor geared 17/92, and I turned my EPA down to 90%. I am running Normal Timing, High Initial Exceleration, 0% Throttle limit.

Good luck finding front CVDs , it took me a good 2 months of watching forums and ebay till I finally found a set . I don`t care for the LCDs . I think some parts for this buggy are no more because a new 4wd is on the way . Hopefully this fall when the supposedly new 1/10 lineup is supposed to be released .

I like LCDs :) More steering = More better

[Briguy]

I won`t be driving one again until this weekend but when I had my others I couldn`t keep them together . Land wrong and they would come apart and always had plenty of steering with CVDs.

[J.Phelps]

Thanks Frank, are you running steel diffs and what are your brake settings?
Jeff

[Briguy]

* edit * found my answer

[Frank Root]

Thanks Frank, are you running steel diffs and what are your brake settings?
Jeff

I am running CR outdrives front and rear. I also run 4% drag brake and 40% brakes with my EPA at 80%.

[MOGGIE XL]

Frank You seem to realy like the LCD's but do you have a way of building them so they will not come appart after two or three runs.