LOSB3594 Ball Diff for Slider, Strike, and HIGHroller

[Dman]

Losi's new preassembled Ball Differential (LOSB3594) comes fully prebuilt from the factory and is ready to be dropped into Losi's 1/10 Slider, 1/10 HIGHroller and 1/10 Strike SCT. This differential was designed to withstand high-powered motor and battery setups, and allows the user to make adjustments for enhanced steering and traction.

http://losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSB3594

[Purplehazezzz]

Whill this restand te power of brushless? Wich will be better the ball dif or the metal diff ?

[tamiya monkey]

im just glad to see some hop-up parts coming out for my high roller, ive had it since last december and things are only just coming out.

[jmackani]

When is this going to be available?

[Matt Sunderlage]

Losi site says late Oct....I hope sooner than that!!!

[jmackani]

I think they should quit all these early releases of information and just advertise it when it's actually available to the consumer. The strike and now this. It does not matter if the factory drivers have it, because the rest of us end up waiting another 2 to 3 months before they make it through production.

[Canuck]

I think they should quit all these early releases of information and just advertise it when it's actually available to the consumer. The strike and now this. It does not matter if the factory drivers have it, because the rest of us end up waiting another 2 to 3 months before they make it through production.

I agree with most of this post. Put out the information release a week or so before it is available to help build it up a bit, but not months. Making someone wait months just pisses people off IMO.

[Matt Sunderlage]

.....yeah I'd love to have a ball diff NOW!!!:(

[kingzj]

Matt I have one you can use for a while. I made it for my slider so it should work.

Jesse

[muck]

will it fit older models?

[flyboy0413]

Looks like the ball diff is in stock now at horizon.

Question for the reps before I buy. Will it hold up in my strike, which is powered by the 4800KV brushless xcelorin motor? I run mainly on the street, so it will have a pretty tough life as there's a lot of traction.

[jmackani]

Looks like the ball diff is in stock now at horizon.

Question for the reps before I buy. Will it hold up in my strike, which is powered by the 4800KV brushless xcelorin motor? I run mainly on the street, so it will have a pretty tough life as there's a lot of traction.

If you are running on the street, I think you are wasting your money. The car already has plenty of traction on the street.

[flyboy0413]

If you are running on the street, I think you are wasting your money. The car already has plenty of traction on the street.

Well, there is plenty of traction in a straight line, but coming out of the turns the back inside tire always comes off the pavement and just spins, so I can't accelerate until everything has settled back to the ground. I thought a ball diff would help in this situation and let me accelerate sooner out of the turns.

[jmackani]

The ball diff is not going to stop the tire from lifting in the turns. That would be your suspension.

[boyfromoz]

Has any one installed one of these ball diffs? Quick review on the ease of install procedure and how it performed in comparison to stock diff?

[TFrahm]

I've installed one in my Slider sprint car... The ball diff is fully assembled, and comes with new outdrive bearings, as the outdrives are a slightly different size, etc... The new outdrive bearings are more robust and should hold up well.

The ball diff is very smooth, and I took the time to do a nice break-in procedure to seat the balls on the rings, etc. and than ensured it was adjusted properly -- it has worked flawlessly so far. Of course, the Slider is a much lighter vehicle, but I would say it looks good -- I have one on order for my Strike, and it should be here any day now...

As to performance, it instantly "hooked up" the rear of my Slider so much that I had to work to get the front end hooked up better to restore corner speed. With all the steering the Strike has, that won't be a problem.

[TFrahm]

Well, there is plenty of traction in a straight line, but coming out of the turns the back inside tire always comes off the pavement and just spins, so I can't accelerate until everything has settled back to the ground. I thought a ball diff would help in this situation and let me accelerate sooner out of the turns.

The ball diff is still a "diff", and although it will not "diff out" as easily as a gear diff, lifting a tire will still cause you to essentially lose forward drive until the wheel settles down.

As someone implied, you need to work on your suspension -- heavier oil, stiffer springs, lower ride height, etc. -- all the standard tweaks to improve cornering. (moving the shocks out on the arms will help too.) I suspect the most vital upgrade would be some form of sway bar installation, but that you will have to come up with on your own, since I don't think anyone is offering one for the Strike yet...

[flyboy0413]

ok.. I get the point. However, from a durability and longevity standpoint, is the ball diff better built that the stock gear diff? I hate how wobbly the outdrives coming out of the diff are and have read a lot of posts about the outdrive pin breaking.

[jmackani]

I would say from the pictures the ball diff is more durable than the stock diff. The wobbling is from the free floating outdrives on the stock diff. I will say it is a pain to remove the rear end to get the old diff out. The outdrives come straight out by just removing the rear camber links and removing the dog bones. The diff itself requires disassembling the entire rear end to get it out.

[Todd Hodge]

Hi Guys,

I know some of you will be getting the new ball differential for your Slider, HighROLLER, or Strike. Please be aware that you slipper needs to function. If you do not allow your slipper to slip under punch offs you could have some transmission issues. Please make sure under full punch offs that your slipper slips for the first few feet. Most of the slippers function is to slip under punch offs and onpower landings.

[TFrahm]

For those asking about durability of the ball diff, I can say Todd is right on with his comments. I have literally months on one of the prototypes (in my Slider), and I just rebuilt it last night FOR THE FIRST TIME! The outdrives are nicely hardened steel, and show virtually zero wear, the rings and diff balls were still good, and even the thrust bearings just needed cleaning and lube... With the plastic ball diff gear and the aluminum idler and stock steel top shaft gear, all the gears still look almost like new (I didn't replace any of them).

HOWEVER -- Throughout all this time, I have been a fanatic about maintaining the slipper setting, deglazing plates and pads as needed, and even eventually replacing the stock slipper (plates, pads and spur gear) with standard XXX parts although the stock slipper works fine, it does take a bit more attention since the slipper plates are not hard-anodized. (FWIW, the slipper plates, pads and spur from the Associated B4/T4 can be swapped in also, but it's a LOSI, SO...)...

As noted earlier, I now have purchased a production ball diff from my LHS, and it will go into my Strike...

[SalmonShark]

For those asking about durability of the ball diff, I can say Todd is right on with his comments. I have literally months on one of the prototypes (in my Slider), and I just rebuilt it last night FOR THE FIRST TIME! The outdrives are nicely hardened steel, and show virtually zero wear, the rings and diff balls were still good, and even the thrust bearings just needed cleaning and lube... With the plastic ball diff gear and the aluminum idler and stock steel top shaft gear, all the gears still look almost like new (I didn't replace any of them).

HOWEVER -- Throughout all this time, I have been a fanatic about maintaining the slipper setting, deglazing plates and pads as needed, and even eventually replacing the stock slipper (plates, pads and spur gear) with standard XXX parts although the stock slipper works fine, it does take a bit more attention since the slipper plates are not hard-anodized. (FWIW, the slipper plates, pads and spur from the Associated B4/T4 can be swapped in also, but it's a LOSI, SO...)...

As noted earlier, I now have purchased a production ball diff from my LHS, and it will go into my Strike...

Please let us know how it goes. I have these waiting to go into my Strikes, but haven't had time yet. And now with the idler issues that are starting to pop up, I wonder if I should order a set of those and change them when I drop in the ball diff. My is already starting to sound questionable.

In regards to adjusting the slipper, I have it set to the stock setting currently. What's the easiest way to test to make sure it's properly setup? I don't want to blow the diff out in a few runs. Any tips/tricks on setting it up would be appreciated.

Thanks,
SS

[furyflyer01]

Well, all I can say is.....your beta test version is definately not the same as the one you'll be getting if you order the production version....it's junk! mine broke while in the
"break-in" process, the screw head snapped rite off, (just like the shaft that goes thru the stock diff outdrives)......(the screw that holds the whole shebang together is only a 2-56 thread, what a JOKE!).....do you really think that's enuff for a 4.5 lb car w/ a 550 sized brushed motor, let alone a brushless get-up! Why not make this stuff better, (ie. 3 mm hardened hex head)....even if it costs slightly more?!?! I sure have a bad taste in my mouth about this whole truck :mad:

Good luck to the rest of ya!

[Todd Hodge]

Hi Guys,

We have seen that some of the ball differentials were extremely light on silicone diff grease. We advise that the diff should be opened up and additional silicone grease be installed on the diff gear.

Again I recommend that the slipper has to work. If your slipper is too tight you will have problems with the diff as in all 1/10th offroad vehicles.

[SalmonShark]

Would it be better to start loose and then tighten it up some? Still a little confused on how to best test this.

Thanks,
SS

[SalmonShark]

Any responses would be appreciated in regards to my question above.

Thanks,
SS

[stupergenius]

For those asking about durability of the ball diff, I can say Todd is right on with his comments. I have literally months on one of the prototypes (in my Slider),

What motor?

[Briguy]

There is no metal nut inside the plastic diff nut like on the kits ?

[Briguy]

I know several racers that don`t have any problems that you do . But then again they are not running ridiculously stupid motors in them either .

[stupergenius]

I know several racers that don`t have any problems that you do . But then again they are not running ridiculously stupid motors in them either .

I know several RC car manufacturers who's diffs will hold up to ridiculously motors...

[furyflyer01]

Well.....all I can say is "THANKS Todd!!!"

It really is a pleasure doing business w/ a company that has this level of customer service! I received my new ball diff and all I can say is "WOW!" The new one is fantastic.....that thing in conjunction w/ the CVD drives is just excellent.....look out SC10's and Slash's.....hahahahaha

Happy Motoring :D

[boyfromoz]

Would it be better to start loose and then tighten it up some? Still a little confused on how to best test this.

Thanks,
SS

Yes. Tighten the slipper all the way to tight then loosen off (lets say) 3 whole turns. Now try it. It should definitly slip a lot. Adjust but tightening it 1/8 turns at a time until it's "just right" - it slips a little (few inches) at take off.

[boyfromoz]

Whats the best diff grease to use with this ball diff? The smart diff grease - LOSA3607?

Also, what grease are we using for the rest of the tranny (i.e idlr gear, top gear). I've been using Tamita AW gease for the aluminium idler gear to help wear but its REALLY thick but now I have a harden stell idler (from hot racing) I'm thinking theres a better option here. The Tamiya greese while helping wear seems to put a lot of resistances on the tranny.

[boyfromoz]

I finally decided to pick this up for my Strike. Like the hardened out dirves but the gear itself is plastic???? Was expecting steel like the stock one.

What's that about?

Not sure if I should keep the steel idler gear from "Hot Racing" with it or use the original aluminium or plastic one? Anyone lost any teeth off the ball diff?

[D_FAST]

Would it be better to start loose and then tighten it up some? Still a little confused on how to best test this.

Thanks,
SS

Never start loose! If your ball diff slips it will melt away the plastic gear the balls sit in.

If anything should be loose its your slipper clutch.