Ask Casper

[Casper]

I normally don't start these types of threads for myself but since there is a section just for these types of threads I will put my hat in the ring. I will do my best to go out in the forum and answer questions all over the board but if you happen to have a specific question for me or just want to say hi post away! ;) I specialize in 10th electric offroad but have basically run anything offroad by now. I do my best to keep current so hopefully I can have something useful to add to your questions.

[Casey Peck]

Hello Casper, thanks for putting your self out there. Still working hard on the strike?

[zippy_91]

Hi Casper

I didn't see a XXX-4 in your signature, but I was wondering if you might be able to help. I picked a XXX-4 late last year and started racing this summer. This is my first year racing, so I haven't made a lot of set up changes. First priority was just getting around the track without crashing too many times. Now that I am little more comfortable with the car I would like to start to tweak the set up. I checked the Losi website, but didn't see any current set up sheets. Do you know where I could find some set ups that the Team Drivers are currenty using?

[Casper]

Hello Casper, thanks for putting your self out there. Still working hard on the strike?

Well you did it so I figured I would continue the trend and get a primarily electric guy on here!:p


Hi Casper

I didn't see a XXX-4 in your signature, but I was wondering if you might be able to help. I picked a XXX-4 late last year and started racing this summer. This is my first year racing, so I haven't made a lot of set up changes. First priority was just getting around the track without crashing too many times. Now that I am little more comfortable with the car I would like to start to tweak the set up. I checked the Losi website, but didn't see any current set up sheets. Do you know where I could find some set ups that the Team Drivers are currenty using?

I honestly have never driven a XXX-4. I ran a XX-4 back in the day and loved it but since coming back to losi I have just been playing with the 2wd cars. 4wd is a little dead except for big races in so cal so I have stuck with what is most popular.

This is the best site I know of for setups.

http://www.petitrc.com/view_news.php?id=4577

unfortunatley a lot of these setups are a few years old. I will see if I can get Chambers to post a setup for you.

[Justin Doyle]

Casper could you post your current CR Truck setup. Im running indoors on a dry dusty track and looking for a good baseline.

[Casper]

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/setuptriplextcr/XXXTCR_Casper_StandardSetup200905.pdf

Here is a link to my setup. Just need to find the right tires. Maybe an M3 holeshot or Green DD's for a dusty track.

[Justin Doyle]

Casper what kind of tire prep do you use when racing indoors? Do you flame them when there new?

[Casper]

Indoor I usually use buggy grip or our local track has some great stuff called sticky kicks which works awesome as well.

Buring tires is pretty dangerous so I would never recommend it. I have never seen guys do it for indoor racing though. That is usually a red compound tire trick when it is really hot out to get the oils out of the rubber. I hope it is not very hot for your indoor track and I tend to run pink tires on indoor clay tracks.

[Justin Doyle]

I am planning on running your setup this week on our indoor track. Was wondering do you thread rear shock eyelets flush with shaft or unscrew them a couple turns? And was wondering why the front buggy spring?

Also any tips for leaky rear shocks? I have new shafts and new o-rings I guess im down to cartridges? They seem to seal good?

[Casper]

front shock are pretty much screwed in. I would say about a 1/2 turn out due to how I hold them when I put the bottoms on.
Rear shocks out a turn.

Buggy front spring are more progressive so they get stiffer quicker then truck springs.

I have always had a small issue with the 1.2 shocks. Bleed them twice. Basically fill the shock up, screw the cartridge in 1/2 way and then push the piston all the way in the body and then screw the cartridge in all the way slowly. Back the cartridge off about 1/4 to 1/2 turn and keep the shaft all the way in and screw the cartridge in again. A little more oil should come out. I have always had the rear truck shocks leak just a little but I think it is just too much oil in the shocks with the large volume these have. Green slime always helps as well. The leaks I have had are always really slow so I have kind of lived with it. Front shocks almost never leak as well as my buggy shocks. Just the truck rears. :confused:

[jessebo8247]

Casper,

I'm just getting back into RC Cars after several years of being out of it. I Just picked up a XXX-4G+, and am trying to figure out which radio I should purchase. I pick stuff up pretty quickly, so I always want latest and greatest tech stuff. I had a futaba before, and am also looking at the Airtronics radios. I want something that will run my car, but something that is future proof in case I want to start running 1/8 buggies or any other type of car. I don't want to be purchasing radios for several different cars. any advice will be greatly appreciated.

thanks...

[Casper]

The Spektrum DX3R is a pretty awesome radio. Battery life is best in the business and the DSM2 system has proven to be one of the best 2.4ghz systems out there. Check it out. I think you will be impressed with the features and price point compared to the Futaba 4PK and the Airtronics M-11 FHSS.

Most all of the losi team is using the radio as well as it being a very popular radio in the pits.

What ever you do choose I highly recommend a native 2.4 system. That means the 2.4 system is built into the radio. Not one that has a 2.4 ghz module replacing a crystal module.

IF you plan on racing gas there have been some issues with the Futaba 4pk on long mains with the recievers over heating. Not sure if they solved the problem yet but something to keep in mind. Otherwise a VERY good radio as well.

[Neobart]

I have a 4PK and have had no problems with it. Both the R604FS that comes with it and the R603FS that I put in my buggy have handled 30 min mains without issues.

I do agree that the DX3r/s has a better bang for your buck, but the 4PK just feels better in my hands. I'm fine with the DX3S bashing my XXL, but for long mains it just doesn't feel quite as good as the Futaba.

Ergonomics is something not to be overlooked when choosing your radio.


Other then that I totally agree with Casper. :cool:

[Casper]

I will admit the 4pk feels good but it is a different feel. The issues with gas cars I have heard from some top end pro's. I have not seen it personally. Not sure what the full circumstances of what the issues were.

[Briguy]

Casper , I`m going to get a Strike as soon as they are released . Will the BND work with any radio that has Spektrum 2.4 ? I have a KoPropo Helios w/Spektrum module and plan to run this truck as well with my radio .

[Casper]

Yes the BND will work with ANY Spektrum system. It obviously will not work with Futaba or Airtronics FHSS systems but if you are running a spektrum module in your radio it will bind right up!

[Briguy]

Thanks , I thought it should but never know for sure .

[Casper]

Yeah it is a standard DSM reciever. If it were a DSM2 you would have needed a DX3 series radio and that would not have made much sense! WE can bind our DX3 series radio's to DSM so it makes it most universal.

[zippy_91]

Hey Casper,

Do you have a set up for an MF2? I race on loose / loamy surface, and just looking for a good set up to work from. Thanks!

[Casper]

Try this:

Front:

Shocks: Blue buggy springs, 2 on tower, Inside on arm, 32.5wt with 57 pistons.
Camber: 2-b with two washers, 1 deg of negative camber
Misc: Spindles down, one washer under spindle ball stud, VLA outside.
Rear:

Shocks: Pink springs, 3 on tower, middle on arm, 40 wt with 55 pistons
Camber: 1-A, 1 deg of negative camber
Misc: 1 deg of antisquat, hubs centered, VLA narrow, bones level
Misc: I have run this same setup on tracks from loose and bumpy to blue groove with great success. NOTE: On blue groove tracks only change rear camber to POSITIVE 1 deg and move the lower front shock mount to the middle. Only change tires to what works on that dirt.

I ran this setup with great success on all types of tracks.

Good luck.

[zippy_91]

Thanks Casper! I will give this a shot for the next race.

[Briguy]

Casper , I race my XXX-T CR on a hard packed clay indoor track . I got the truck almost perfect , except when the track dries up towards the end of the night I loose off power steering . Other then that I love the truck . Is there anything I can do when the track dries up to get off power steering back . I run the same tires/foams as everyone else . Unfortunately I am the only Losi driver there as it is an AE crowd .


My current setup is as follows -

Front


Toe- in 1*
Ride Height - 34 mm
Caster - stock
Oil - 35
Piston - 56
Spring - Silver
Limiters - .210"
Spindle Height - bottom
Axle spacer - Wide , stock size
Steering type - Bell crank , inside holes with 2 washers
Bump Steer - 3 washers on spindle ball stud
Camber Link - 2,B w/ 1 washer on bulkhead
Shock Location - 1 , Inside
VLA - Long

Rear

Toe - 3*
Pivot Support - 2*
Ride Height - 35 MM
Camber - -1*
Rear Hubs - Forward
Oil - 27.5
Piston - 56
Spring - White
Liniters - no
Camber Link - 2 , B w/ 4 washers
Shock Location - 4 , Middle
VLA - Long , Upper hole on hub
Battery - Middle

Tekin RS Pro 13.5
23/82 gearing


Thanks , Brian

[Casper]

You can try a softer front spring or a stiffer rear spring to transfer more weight forward off power. I would try this first. I will have to think about it some more. You are basically running a version of the kit setup. I have never really had success with the light rear setups but those just don't fit my driving style.

Try running the outside hole on the bell crank and see how you like it. I found the inside hole location to be inconsistent for me.

[Y2KGTP]

Unfortunately I am the only Losi driver there as it is an AE crowd .



Give me a few weeks :D Baby only a week old....maybe when he is a Mo...:eek:

[Casper]

Congrats on the baby Y2KGTP-- I have 3 with the youngest 22 months so I know how hard it is to get away with a young one!

[Y2KGTP]

Congrats on the baby Y2KGTP-- I have 3 with the youngest 22 months so I know how hard it is to get away with a young one!

Thanks...We got 16, 5, 2.5 (only girl) & 1 week old boy now.....

My 5yr old had a JRX Pro (my "vintage" losi, a Slash & a XXX-S)

My 2.5yr old girl likes to run off with my Mini-T :D

If they had a trade-in program, I would be picking up Strikes for the Slash's LOL

Slash's have Losi RTR 2.4Ghz at least.....

[Casper]

Cool. My 11 year old has played around with and old MF2 for a few years. She has won novice at our club races once. My middle is 7 and I gave her a mini-t to play with. I think after the Reedy she will get to play with the strike some!

[Briguy]

You can try a softer front spring or a stiffer rear spring to transfer more weight forward off power. I would try this first. I will have to think about it some more. You are basically running a version of the kit setup. I have never really had success with the light rear setups but those just don't fit my driving style.

Try running the outside hole on the bell crank and see how you like it. I found the inside hole location to be inconsistent for me.

Thanks Casper ! I went to orange springs up front and made a big difference . Gonna try the outside hole on bell crank next week .

[Y2KGTP]

Thanks Casper ! I went to orange springs up front and made a big difference . Gonna try the outside hole on bell crank next week .

Let me know when you get the setup done so I can copy it :D

[Briguy]

The new layout is nice and was liking how the truck handled . Going to an outdoor track tomorrow so see how it does there .

[sport10]

Try this:

Front:

Shocks: Blue buggy springs, 2 on tower, Inside on arm, 32.5wt with 57 pistons.
Camber: 2-b with two washers, 1 deg of negative camber
Misc: Spindles down, one washer under spindle ball stud, VLA outside.
Rear:

Shocks: Pink springs, 3 on tower, middle on arm, 40 wt with 55 pistons
Camber: 1-A, 1 deg of negative camber
Misc: 1 deg of antisquat, hubs centered, VLA narrow, bones level
Misc: I have run this same setup on tracks from loose and bumpy to blue groove with great success. NOTE: On blue groove tracks only change rear camber to POSITIVE 1 deg and move the lower front shock mount to the middle. Only change tires to what works on that dirt.

I ran this setup with great success on all types of tracks.

Good luck.

I am thinking about using this setup also and wonder what size limiters you used in the front and rear shocks. Stock is .120 front and none in the rear.

[Casper]

I have the kit .210 in the front and none in the rear.

[dynodan22]

Hey Casper

Like to thank you for that set up, only thing I do different is no squat and red springs in front . Truck runs great. I am going to try the anti-squat this weak and see what the differences are. By the way how hard is it to get a Losi Banner? I wanted one from our track, but they only have one , its **** AE country there. I like to throw one in the kids room to give him some pride in the vechiles he runs:)

Dynodan22

[Casper]

Losi sells a few of their banners.

http://www.losi.com/Search/Default.aspx?CatId=ZB

I don't have any. I still need to get the pit mat. I have been using the same red towel for the past 6 years!

Glad the setup is working for you. Glad you are tweaking it to your liking. It is good to see poeple trying stuff. Although my setup works great for me it is not for everyone but it is at least a good starting point! :D

[Y2KGTP]

Losi sells a few of there banners.

http://www.losi.com/Search/Default.aspx?CatId=ZB

I don't have any. I still need to get the pit mat. I have been using the same red towel for the past 6 years!

I have been using blue micro-fiber towels from Wal-mart for 6-7$ lately on my home table. They are 28" x 30" or so.

Something that cleans up easy would be nice....

[Vincenzo]

I am having a problem with my shocks. I am still pretty new to RCing in general, and the XXX buggy I bought off of eBay is the first losi I have ever owned. I cannot seem to get the shocks right. I fill them up, screw them together, a little oil comes out, and then they won't compress at all. I know I am not using too thick oil, because its only 30wt. Is it something I am doing wrong, or are my shocks just bad?

[Casper]

Fill up the shocks with oil to about half way up the threaded area. Screw in the cartridge about half to 3/4 of the way and then slowly push the piston all the way into the shock. Some oil should leak out at this time. Then slowly finish screwing the cartridge all the way down. If you do not have the piston on the top of the shock then there will be too much oil in the shock. These are called emulsion shocks since there is no bladder in them. There will be some air in the shocks to deal with the volume of the shock shaft moving in and out of the shock. This is normal.

[Vincenzo]

Fill up the shocks with oil to about half way up the threaded area. Screw in the cartridge about half to 3/4 of the way and then slowly push the piston all the way into the shock. Some oil should leak out at this time. Then slowly finish screwing the cartridge all the way down. If you do not have the piston on the top of the shock then there will be too much oil in the shock. These are called emulsion shocks since there is no bladder in them. There will be some air in the shocks to deal with the volume of the shock shaft moving in and out of the shock. This is normal.

K, I'll try that. Thanks :)

[pa1760]

Can somebody tell me what size holes are drilled in the shock valves on the 1/10 Slider Sprint car? I want to try to make a "split valve" shock for the LR by drilling tapered holes. Then I'd like to try to make an "easy up" shock for the RF later. Any tips for doing this?

[Casper]

I don't know what the pistons are on the sportwork shocks. Sorry. I will see what I can find out.

[pa1760]

Does drilling a tapered hole really change the compression and rebound differently?

[Casper]

Yes it does. The side with the bigger hole will funnel the oil through the hole more effiently then the side with the smaller hole. Fluid dynamics is a tricky thing to fully understand but it does make a difference.

Open side down will allow the shock to rebound faster. Open side up will make the compression softer and the rebound slower.

[radar2819]

Hey Casper, I was wondering if you run a xxx-4 and if you do, do you have a good set up for it. My local track is over run by AE stuff so there isnt anyone to ask there. Thank for all your help. Also the set up help you gave me for my xxx-t cr was spot on the only diffrence i ran was all graphite up front and left the rear ea3 except the rear pivot. Thanks again

[Briguy]

You race at Trackside ? At LH us Losi guys run the XX4 , more stable and durable then XXX-4 .

[radar2819]

Yes i run at Trackside. I have had this xxx-4 for three years and now wanted to do something with it after seeing them race for the spektrum race. I dont get why they all have to have AE there.

[Briguy]

Same at LH . 98% AE guys .

[Casper]

I have never driven a XXX-4. Sorry. I wish I could be more help! :(

Glad you like the XXX-T setup. I run all graphite but the chassis and rear shock tower are EA3. (they don't make those in graphite! :p)

[radar2819]

Thanks anyhow Casper. I did find a graphite rear shock tower if your intrested it is part number losa9822

[Briguy]

That is most likely the old tower with only three holes for camber link .

[Casper]

Yeah I knew about the tower. I will most likely put a graphite one on next. Like Briguy stated it is the older 3 hole camberlink tower but since I don't use any of the "new" holes with the CR tower it will work great for me and flex less.

[radar2819]

Just got my rear graphite shock tower and it is the same as the ea3 tower.

[Casper]

It has all 8 rear camber holes?

[radar2819]

Yes it has all 8 of the holes

[Casper]

Sweet. I will need to order some of those! :D

[Neobart]

I have a problem with my newly installed 2100kv xcelorin system. I started after a few minutes of running today, the truck will not move but I can see the motor trying to turn both clock-wise and counter clock wise.

It is nothing in the drive train, since the motor does the same with the pinion off, it just goes backwards and forwards without getting up to speed.

Do you think a firmware update(even thought it has the newest one) could fix it, or is it hardware related?

[Casper]

My guess would be a ESC issue with a blown fet. If you can plug the motor into a known good ESC and test the motor to eliminate it that would be a good test but sounds ESC related to me.

[Neobart]

I gave up figuring it out, my LHS had a look at it and it is now being sent to Horizon to be looked at. I don't know why the LHS even tried to look at it, as he has no clue. He tried to make it sound like it was my fault, and that the middle ESC wire should always be on the middle motor tab, or the ESC will fail. Seriously, that's what he said. :rolleyes:

I really wish Horizon had answered my email, I would much rather deal with Them directly, than have to deal with ignorant LHS clerks.

We'll see how it turns out.

[macrylinda]

Indoor I usually use buggy grip or our local track has some great stuff called sticky kicks which works awesome as well.

Buring tires is pretty dangerous so I would never recommend it. I have never seen guys do it for indoor racing though. That is usually a red compound tire trick when it is really hot out to get the oils out of the rubber. I hope it is not very hot for your indoor track and I tend to run pink tires on indoor clay tracks.

I am planning on running your setup this week on our indoor track. Was wondering do you thread rear shock eyelets flush with shaft or unscrew them a couple turns? And was wondering why the front buggy spring?

Also any tips for leaky rear shocks? I have new shafts and new o-rings I guess im down to cartridges? They seem to seal good?

[Briguy]

Shock eyelets two turns out . The blue buggy springs work great but if you don`t have them the truck silver or greens will act similar . For the shocks leaking , did you coat the o-rings with shock oil before installing them ?

[Casper]

Blue buggy springs are a little more progressive then the silver springs. The silver truck and blue buggy springs have the same rate but the buggies get stiffer a litttle quicker then the trucks. It is a fine tuning thing.

Rear shocks have always been a little bit of a problem for me. Use some green slime on the o-rings and make sure they are fully blead. I bleed my shocks twice for the truck rears. makes sure all the extra oil is out. The rears for me have always leaked just a little though over time.

I unthread the rear shock eyelets 1.5 to 2 turnes. Fronts all the way turned in.

[jw299]

Could you please list the part #'s for the plastic hubs bones etc. that some of the team members seem to be running with great success?

Thanks alot

[Casper]

Do you mean for the truck?

OSA2995- QC Adapters
LOSA3031- MF2 Axles (x2)
LOSA3027- Axle Cross
LOSA3090- Dogbone (x2)
LOSA6903- Bearings (x2)
LOSA2123- Hub Carriers
LOSA9942- Bearing Spacers

[jw299]

thanks bro

[Casper]

No problem! ;)

[Briguy]

Casper , any chance Losi will be making Taper Pins and BK Bars for SCTs ? Rather run a Losi tire then the others .

I`m very surprised Losi has only 1 SCT tire . I hope SCT tires will be something in the near future Losi is focusing on .

[Casper]

Don't know what all they have in store but I think they will have more SCT tires in the future. I know ultra digits are on the list of new tires but not sure what else they may be doing. I know they are working on lots of new tires though. ;)

[Briguy]

Casper , not sure how familiar you are with the Ten-T but is the clutch bell the same pitch as the 8ight bell ? I ordered this truck and want to run the 8ight clutch instead of the M2C or Buku as I wouldn`t be able to get the shoes and springs for those clutch setups at my LHS .

[Casper]

No they are not. 8ight runs 1.0 mod and ten-t uses .8 mod

[Briguy]

Thanks , guess I`ll have to mod a 8ight spur to fit .

[Briguy]

Casper , Will the complete CR diff , except the gear fit in my XX4 ?

[Casper]

Yes it will. Basically you just need the rings and spring.

[n2deepmotorsports]

Hi guys im new to this forum stuff but any how my question is about the xxx sct ,seems like an awsome truck for stock class but needs a little work for open mod so my question is set up ill give you my home track discription. It is indoor track, temp usually between 40 and 50 degrees kinda chilly it is pretty tacky grip with clay in it, its got a long straight .then some quad jumps about 2 feet high with acouple sharp turns then a double and there 2 feet high then another sharp turn into a bunch of 1 foot woopee do,s and thats basic lay out. SO my question is set up whats a good starting point i would like to no what shock oil front and read ,springs rate to try ,and if someone would give me a set up sheet of all the changes with toe in ,camber, basically where everything should be as a good start for this track including like toe in in the back . Now i give you basically whats all in my truck , it has a 3300 kv motor ,lipo battery pack, 88 stock gear with a 21 pinion i put in and alum pivot block in the front im have on the way a xxx tcr full ball diff going in all graphit shock supports ,nose plate ,basically everything i can get my hands on for an upgrade from xxx tcr till losi releases the rest of xxx sct upgrades and DE rims and aka tires super softs. SO any help with all this would be awsome and any other up grades i can get to help would be great thanks for who helps me become the the man again in my class .
:confused:

[Casper]

Here is the setup I run at my indoor clay track.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/setuptriplexsct/3XSCT_Casper_OCRC20101207.pdf

You can upgrade to an alum top shaft on the tranny. VLA hubs in the rear and VLA caster blocks in the front for tuning. Upgrade the stock servo to something a little faster and stronger does not hurt as well.

[ÜB3R]

Here is the setup I run at my indoor clay track.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/setuptriplexsct/3XSCT_Casper_OCRC20101207.pdf

You can upgrade to an alum top shaft on the tranny. VLA hubs in the rear and VLA caster blocks in the front for tuning. Upgrade the stock servo to something a little faster and stronger does not hurt as well.

how big a difference is the gear diff from the ball diff as far as handling?

[Casper]

I feel the ball diff is more consistent. It does not diff out as hard as the gear diff will if you do get loose. The gear diff works great but the ball is a little better IMO.

[ÜB3R]

I feel the ball diff is more consistent. It does not diff out as hard as the gear diff will if you do get loose. The gear diff works great but the ball is a little better IMO.

thanks, any of the xxxt ball diffs will work, or is one more ideal?

[Casper]

The TCR diff has some improvements with it that help the diff last longer so I would recommend that entire diff setup but any Gen I (Black case) diffs will work.

[ÜB3R]

The TCR diff has some improvements with it that help the diff last longer so I would recommend that entire diff setup but any Gen I (Black case) diffs will work.

thanks, I just got back from the track and I need to get a littel more steering for the tight corners. Just took it out of the box last night so its the stock set up . Also it seemed to get preaty warm. Should I gear it down a littel?

[Casper]

For tighter tracks gearing down a tooth is not a bad idea.

More turn in. Take a washer out of the inner front ball stud. Move the front shocks in one hole. Getting the right tires for your track always helps as well.

[ÜB3R]

Thanks Casper, that helped but I still need more. Should I try and get it out of the rear or is their something I may be over looking. The tires are amazing, just can't seem to get the turn radias I'd like to. I'd like to get to drive through the tight corners insted of trying to slide them . Am I expecting to much out of the longer wheel base. My xxxt flys therew corners.

[Casper]

Try the 3 deg rear pivot as the 4 deg really locks in the rear end. Going to 2-A for the rear camber link would help as well. Those are some rear changes that will help with steering.

[Briguy]

This is getting rediculous with all the spamming lately !

[Casper]

Yeah I and I don't have mod rights for my own thread! :( I have it over some other sections though and have been working to clean it up. I sent a message to the site manager as well. Sorry! :(

[Chad73]

hello im asking for my brother sam,what is the tranny gear ratio for a stock xxx-sct??? 2.19or 2.43??? thanks chad:)

[RC_Fen]

I'm about to do a new paint job for my Losi 8ight 2.0, and I was just curious as to which paints and colors you guys use on the race bodies. I wanted to have similar color pallet for my buggy shell to race in Losi colors.

[Juice]

Hey Casper, I ran your 10.5 gearing this weekend at my local track (EN Hobbies and CRCRC) and My motor got very hot. I started with a 23/84 and I came off the track at 190. Is my motor toast? Also if I am getting hot, Should I gear up on the pinion or down? Thanks.

[Casper]

Gear down. What conditions you running in?
What speedo are you running any boost?

[Casper]

I'm about to do a new paint job for my Losi 8ight 2.0, and I was just curious as to which paints and colors you guys use on the race bodies. I wanted to have similar color pallet for my buggy shell to race in Losi colors.

There are on "official" losi colors for the body. We all come up with our own paint schemes and typically run those on all of our cars to help identify us on the track. Figure out what colors you want and make a design and go with it. It tyically is a evolution thing but if you look at some top drivers you will notice they run basically the same paint scheme on all of there bodies. If they don't have a body in there paint scheme you tend to see all yellow until they get one painted in there scheme.

[dvoisin1]

Hi, I bought a Trinity platinum .28 and my son was messing around with the needles. I was wondering what the factory settings are or what I should set them to break in the engine. I haven't even broken it in yet. Thanks for the help.

[bananaclip]

Casper, I just picked up a new xxxtcr. Our local track is outdoors and is 65 yards long. There is a 10 ft table top, few doubles, and half of the track has 4 tight tuns with small jumps mixed in followed by a large banked sweeper. The track is hard packed dirt/clay with a constant layer of loose dirt in various locations. When dry traction is tricky. Would you start with your base set up or recommend any tweaks to it for my track conditions?

[blingy]

Can you tell me your set up for the 22 or are you running dustin evans set up? Thnkx

[Casper]

Hi, I bought a Trinity platinum .28 and my son was messing around with the needles. I was wondering what the factory settings are or what I should set them to break in the engine. I haven't even broken it in yet. Thanks for the help.

I have not touched a gas car in about 2-3 years so not much help there. Sorry. From my past gas experience though the factory settings should be pretty close for break in. Start it up and run a few tanks through and then a couple more with mid range throttle bursts letting it cool between each. That is how I broke in my motors but again it has been a few years. Adam would be a much better person to ask.

Casper, I just picked up a new xxxtcr. Our local track is outdoors and is 65 yards long. There is a 10 ft table top, few doubles, and half of the track has 4 tight tuns with small jumps mixed in followed by a large banked sweeper. The track is hard packed dirt/clay with a constant layer of loose dirt in various locations. When dry traction is tricky. Would you start with your base set up or recommend any tweaks to it for my track conditions?

I ran my base setup everywhere with just tire changes for the conditions.

Can you tell me your set up for the 22 or are you running dustin evans set up? Thnkx

I don't have a setup I am willing to give out just yet. Still working on a few things but getting it better all the time. I tried the Dustin setup and it is really good. I would start there. Once I work in my car a little more and try it out next weekend at the JBRL I will post up something for what I have been working on but still want to try a few things before then.

[anderson79]

Casper,

Wanting to upgrade my stock servo in my SCT, to Spektrum S6040 Digital Titanium Gear High Speed Surface Servo [SPMSS6040]. But I am not sure what all I need to get for it. Sorry to ask a question like that but finding the answer has been quite hard to do. Thanks.

[Casper]

You need a 23T servo arm. I am pretty sure that is the same as the stock arm. If not you will need this.

http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA1620

It should drop right in after that.

[Briguy]

Casper , any chance you have a setup for the 22T yet ? Hopefully I`ll have mine next month .

[Casper]

I don't have one yet. Only the "A" team guys have them at this moment.

[Cruisecontrol]

Hi, just finally started running the 22 and want to know how to increase the steering. I am running standard kit setup. Track is loamy packed clay, low grip.... Havent run r/c cars for nearly 3 yrs think ive forgotten most things hehe

Cheers

[Casper]

Are you looking for low speed steering or high speed steering. Different setup changes can effect these different types of steering. The 22 has a ton of steering potential so we should be able to dial you in some more steering pretty easy.

[TLRRacer]

Casper on the 22T body where do I cut the plastic pieces hanging off the side of the body I'm about to send it out for paint and I'm guessing these are for the side pieces any help would be appreciated.

[Casper]

You can but they were intended to be folded up a little and tuck to the sides of the chassis. Helps keep air from being trapped in the body as well as dirt and debris. They just need to be folded in a little more. Or you can cut them off and run it like a normal Truck body. Either way.

[TLRRacer]

You can but they were intended to be folded up a little and tuck to the sides of the chassis. Helps keep air from being trapped in the body as well as dirt and debris. They just need to be folded in a little more. Or you can cut them off and run it like a normal Truck body. Either way.

What are most team guys doing are the cutting them off and then bending them to be velcroed to the body which I think I'm gonna do.

[Casper]

What are most team guys doing are the cutting them off and then bending them to be velcroed to the body which I think I'm gonna do.

Actually a lot of team guys have done something like this.

http://rcspecial.com/news/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/oriontlr22t110811.jpg

A lot of them have preproduction bodies that did not have the under fold. Some added these side plates others ran without anything. I plan on running the body as it comes folding the sides under.

[Cruisecontrol]

Are you looking for low speed steering or high speed steering. Different setup changes can effect these different types of steering. The 22 has a ton of steering potential so we should be able to dial you in some more steering pretty easy.

Hey Casper, ive tried increasing the roll center, lowering it, set epa to 120% changed from -1 degree toe in to 1 degree toe out, adjusting damper from 27.5 to 30, changed from red to orange springs at rear, changed to 3 degree toe lrc on rear.... all seperate and gone back and changed 1 thing at at time then 2..etc ive done over 500 laps to tune the car. Having said that a lot of people like the setup and asked what i have done.

I need more low speed cornering as our new strack is a tight technical point and shoot track, 7 hairpins and 3 left right corners.

Any suggestions to increase low speed cornering would apreciated.

Cheers
Simo

[Casper]

Low speed can be done with softer front spring. Moving the bottom of the shock in on the arm. A little extra toe out. You can try adding some washers to the bottom side of the caster block (lower spindle) and this will give a little more steering. Try taking .5 or 1mm out of the inner ball stud.